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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Certainly would not be the first cracked block i`ve seen for this era Chry / Dodge / Des. and probably not the last, they all had a known weakness in these areas, 6 cylinders as well. As others have said, looks like an older professional job, probably done when these repairs were common place by someone who knew what they were doing; leave it alone until it becomes a problem, that said, it probably wont be in your lifetime.
  2. Replacing the oil in a friends garage, all 5 litres of it finished up on the floor - forgot to put the sump plug back in.
  3. OK plenty of arguments re 6v or 12v; but in the first post as I read it the issue was no spark. Without a spark you wont have to worry about the starter, generator wiring etc.because you cant get the engine to run, so perhaps one thing at a time and as I understand it getting a spark would be the first priority ??
  4. Points taken, but here I am just going through the excercise of electrical continuity, it doesnt matter at this stage whether the coil is 6 or 12 volt.
  5. OK, the trigger to the coil is via the points in the distributor. If you dont have a spark across the points the coil wont fire, whilst you may have power at the coil it needs to flow though the points and back to the coil to create a high voltage spark. So power at the coil is only one half of the solution.
  6. OK if I can chime in, at this stage dont worry too much about the 6v versus 12v, find out why there is no spark; you will get spark with either voltage. See that white wire coming into the distributor, that carries current form the ignition switch to the contact breakers (points) you first need to determine if you have power at that wire with the ignition turned on, a test lamp or volt meter will quickly establish this. If you have power there, the next thing to do is hand turn the motor to a position where the points are closed, then with the ignition turned on, with
  7. Amongst other things you might want to check the carb float height, too high will give you over rich, too low the opposite. Have a look at the plugs after a lengthy idle period, if it`s really too rich there will be black sooty deposits on the plugs.
  8. Amendment to the above, the square window style would make it 1929 I believe.
  9. 41°C ( 106°F ) down here today, just another bright summer day
  10. Ribbon band radiator surround makes it 1930, a 66 would be my guess and probably a Royal given the body style and wires.
  11. Yes, please don`t second guess the brakes, do the lot. You will need a special hub puller to get the rear brake drums off, search this forum for further info if you`re not familiar with them, there are plenty of posts on this topic.
  12. Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator. If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool. Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer. Lovely find by the way, envy overload
  13. Definitely passing through the mechanical pump Diaphragm; fuel in sump is a classic symptom of failed fuel pump diaphragm.
  14. Cant quite work out what it is you are trying to achieve ?
  15. OK add Plymouth U & Q to your search list, pretty sure the 28 - 30 Plymouths used the same distributor.
  16. For the past 30 years I have been on rain water for my early Mopars, no problems yet. Of course I live in a relatively warm climate so wouldnt recommend just water if you live in the freeze zones.
  17. Next to nothing is interchangeable, two different ends of the market when these were sold, Plymouth being the cheapest and Chrysler the dearest. As mentioned Plymouth is very basic 4 cylinder, Chrysler up market 6 cylinder.
  18. 30 hot is fine, as a general rule for older cars, 10psi per 1000 revs is the bench mark when at normal operating temps. 60 cold would seem to be on the high side, what grade oil are you using ?
  19. Sorry, if you go down that road prepare yourself for a lot of frustrating work, ask me how I know.
  20. Not many; because these were the last of the exposed water jacket engines, you need pre 33 / 34 Dodge/Plym/Des/Chry engines otherwise you will be messing around with clutch housing / starter mounting and then trans cross members and so on. Essentially your engine, because of the rear block water jacket configuration, has the starter motor mounted close in to the block, so if you try a later flat sided engine (full water jacket) you will have to use a matching clutch housing which then means different gear box and mountings. etc.
  21. "Because I live overseas" Where overseas ?
  22. " I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm. I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short?" Leaving the power on will mean that the battery current will be flowing through the coil continuously, a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire which will get hot just like the old bar radiators when power passes through; if the points happened to be closed then, they and the condenser, will also heat up; given that these components are designed to switch on and
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