buick5563

Yes. It is frustrating to get in a car that you have rebuilt everything and it still doesn’t work. My modern underdash unit from Old Air Products has never needed a top off and has always blown cold. I installed it in my 55 wagon over five years ago.

And I know Rob (Ficken) is still in business cuz I just sent him some spare wipers within the last two months.

When I was younger I thought it was better to have my engine run cool. I took out the thermostat then I ran a 160. I was basically trying to mask the real reasons the car was running hot. Either bad tuning or blocked radiator. As I got older and I discovered why certain things worked together to be efficient, I raised the thermostat to 180 and installed higher caps. Both of my cars have AC, so I may have blindly installed the 13-16lb caps but I ran a 7 on the factory AC Special for a long time and it only puked a little when it was really hot. I don’t even think I realized it was the lower pressure cap until it looked a little funky and I was going for a senior preservation and was detailing under the hood. At that time I installed a 13.

I didn’t think about the fact that I have AC radiators in both of my 55’s @avgwarhawk def check first, BUT I had a 7 on both cars and then swapped em and they fit fine.

Yes. 😁

Yikes

Me too, although they don’t work on cars that aren’t currently driving

Kosage, I know it’s been 10 years since you asked but I promise I will get you a template before you need it. 😁

Prettier too. 😘

He meant the leading edge of the door, Greg. You’ll need to cut out for the wiring loom. Again, it’s really easy if you have a PW door right next to it to make a template from.

If it is actually a 1/4” return line instead of a 5/16” supply line (assuming the original metal supply line is still in place), it is possible somebody engineered it to combat vapor lock like in “newer” AC cars. My 63 Wildcat had one, I think maybe they started as early as 1960. IF this is the case, it should connect to a fuel filter with two outlets. So 5/16” IN, 5/16” out to carb AND 1/4” return out which then goes back and dumps back in the tank somehow.

Uhaul guy: ”What car are you hauling?” Me: “2007 Honda Civic” Uhaul guy: ”Here’s your trailer”

Jon’s advice should always be followed. A lot of us use auxiliary pumps to prime the carbs after the car has sat for a while or to combat vapor lock in warmer climates. My advice is install it as close to the tank as possible and use one that is rated 4-7 as the pressure drops over the length of the line. I always use a toggle switch to turn it on and off. I recommend a Carter brand electric pump if you are going to run it alone. The small Pep Boys variety are really taxed to keep up on their own. Do not buy an Airtex. I shan’t go into that advice. Just don’t.

Sorry. I didn’t realize that section was separate.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=12445 Available new.

ALLEGEDLY, the green oil has dye in it to detect leaks, like an AC system.

I just got a summit windshield today that was smashed. Who is packing these things? It wasn’t a UPS problem.

I would agree with Lance. FYI, sometimes you can get the same exact ACC carpet on Rockauto for under $300 for the good stuff.

Very nice

Not sure if I missed this, but I would also fuse the fuel pump line and install a toggle on / off switch.

Dayum!!!

That’s pretty cool, especially with the remote tanks.

To follow up on the last post, I sent my steering wheel to California for them to re-cast it in green plastic to match the rest of the interior. My powdercoater has been working overtime for me as I now have red wheels on all three cars. I took my last five good wheels for the convertible project. Sure is easier than using a sandblaster our in my back yard in the heat.

An OLD locksmith.