buick5563

It was supposed to start in San Antonio and I was going to tag along for a couple of days with the Wandering Troubadours of Finland again. It has been postponed for a couple of months, but that is hot as blazes here in August. They were still trying to put it on foolishly on time. Get a traveling parade of septuagenarians going through small towns during a pandemic? It’s hard enough to finish that race without dying of non- car related issues.

Dennis, you are one of the only people on this forum who probably regularly have hotter temps than here. My Aussie mates are in the running, as well.

You weren’t even born then, were you? 😘

Because “I like pie”

Not Spam related. Pie related.

For later Buicks, Steele Rubber vulcanizes your old core. I wonder if they could vulcanize one that didn’t originally come with the rubber. Might at least go straight to the source and give them a call. ...and yes, I have changed quite a few on later Buicks including that Woody wagon that you sold that originated here in central Texas. I did them all the time on a 2 post lift with the rear ended still in the car.

It should be mounted lower than the tank, but then it would be sticking out lower than everything else. There’s no part of the frame that is lower than the tank. Also, I have probably installed 20 electric fuel pumps on customer cars over the years, and have never had an issue as long as they were close (within a foot). I have also had very good luck with the Holley brand fuel pump which is also similar (if not the same) as the Mr. Gasket brand. Now the DISADVANTAGE of working on a bazillion mid 50-s Buicks is that I always think I will remember what I did and when I did it, but I have no idea when I did replace that pump. I doubt I will look at the car today. Will keep you all posted.

All good suggestions. Will try everything. One advantage of specializing in one year / one make including years of restoring those same cars means I have parts on hand, but I want to go at this in a smart way and not just start ripping good parts out.

Thanks guys. The car continued running. It never died all the way. I drove on the shoulder until there was no shoulder and there was a welcome Lowe’s parking lot. It still had power at low speeds to limp. Yes fuel pump is right at tank, maybe six inches above (closest you can mount AFTER an in-line filter). This occurred after the Great Race running points but I DID install pertronix (which I never removed) right when I got home last time, assuming that the cardboard in the tank had been the issue. I have some points I will reinstall. I haven’t checked anything, filters included yet. Just want to get opinions of other things to check.

Another longer run in the wagon that combined me finding ethanol and ended up with me on a trailer. Answers welcome on my other thread:

Yesterday, I took my wagon out for a three hour tour. Like the fateful trip Gilligan took, I was stranded. Fortunately for me, I have Hagerty who sent a tow truck. In 2013, I drove the wagon across the country, finishing up driving Route 66 as a Great Race support vehicle. The car ran flawlessly until the final day of being out for 6 weeks. After getting it home, I changed almost everything I could think of, finally discovering what appeared to be a matchbox in the gas tank. We shan’t delve into how it got into the tank. Last week I drove the wagon and it performed well. I had to run the electric pump once after stopping at a traffic light, but it didn’t show any signs of being affected by the heat last week. Yesterday, it was a little hotter (low 90’s) and I drove further but near the end of the drive, I experienced the same symptoms that killed it before. At first it felt like vapor lock until it was full on surging and almost dying going up any incline. The electric fuel pump couldn’t pass the bubble IF that was the issue. The car had been sitting for at least one year (probably more). In the past month, I rebuilt the carb, flushed the fuel lines, replaced a non-operating fuel sender unit which had frozen in the down position. When I swapped that, I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary in the tank (like cardboard). When I finally gave up trying to push on with driving, the car felt like it was getting gas....getting gas...getting gas. As an aside, I was excited to find a place yesterday that was selling ethanol-free gas, which I had never seen in Texas so I put about ten gallons in. My list of things to check: carb (again) electric fuel pump mechanical fuel pump Fuel lines condenser coil drain the tank Anybody else have any ideas?

Don’t put a pipe in your torque tube. Use a small screw that can be removed whenever you change your oil. That way it doesn’t ruin your driveway. Not enough trans fluid drains down there (even in a year) to warrant a tube.

This is great advice^^^. Also, make sure the buyer checks it while the driver is there. I messed up and assumed that the glass was ok because the box was perfect. Both windshields were cracked, but there was no recourse for me other than buy two new windshields. That was a $1200 mistake on my part.

This is how the first windshield shipped.

They call it a LATE 53 in futuristic 80’s velour upholstery.

I just received two windshields from Classic in Minnesota which arrived broken. They do it for a living. Here is how they did it. Two very large heavy cardboard boxes. One inside the other. The two pieces of glass were bubble wrapped together. The reason they broke was because there wasn’t enough space between the curved corners of the windshields and the box. The second time they tried, they put more bubble wrap in the box. A long time ago, I got a windshield shipped in a 1x4 crate with cardboard and covered in spray foam. Good luck. 😊

That is the lowest lock, JD

I was looking at these guys earlier in the week. https://www.fuelairspark.com/fasttm-ez-efir-fuel-master-kit-in-tank-fuel-pump.html

I was waiting for you to respond, @old-tank 😁

Yes. That is all you need to do for that problem. You will need to re-seal the torque ball retainer upon reassembly. Why? Because while I have installed several spline shaft seals without removing the rear end, you can’t pull back the rear without at least loosening the retainer.

Pompadour is French. Frumpate is Bernie.

My hairs don’t even like to stand up under the weight of this length. Where’s my pompadour?

Me too, Ben

In order to end the hijacking I decided to start a new thread. My Special sedan is maybe a little lower than normal, but it is a solid 60” high. If the hood is up it adds almost another foot. The pictures below are of my car at 95” to the top of the roof. I didn’t lower the hood, but you would want to if you were dealing with an eight foot ceiling. The stool I am using is a Craftsperson hydraulic with the seat all the way down. I am 5’10” and standing, my eye is at the center of the headlight. Sitting all the way down, my mouth is at the center of the wheel hub. I will take more pics later at different heights. I got rid of my two post lift when I stopped working on other people’s cars because frankly, my lift was dangerous. I bought it used from a Mazda dealer and even though it had a weight rating of 8k pounds, it would sway in the breeze. I couldn’t PAY somebody to come and haul it away, so I used my sawzall with about $50 worth of blades and cut the thing apart and got $71 cash money from the scrap yard. Woohoo! I scored that day

Believe, I’ve done that. Then had to dental pick the remainder. I was just throwing my two cents in. Especially since my T 109-290 is currently not owned by me. 😁