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Outbdnut

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  1. I did some more searching on mechanical fuel pump kits and found that there are differences. I found kits for 1940-51, 1952-53, and 1953-56 (V8s). The 1952-53 kit has one of the diaphragms with 8 screw holes and a detail off to one side with a bigger hole, while the 1940-51 has both diaphragms with 10 screw holes and no extra hole. I have three pumps that all fit on a 1951 and 1953 263 engine and they all need the 1940-1951 kit, the 1952-53 kit will not work, so it appears the pump that came on my 1953 engine is an older style. I know what to order now! Dave
  2. Thanks for the info. I found two types of Runtz reducers online. It appears to be nothing more than a 6 or 7 volt zener diode to put in series with the gauge to soak up half the voltage. One I can buy for $19 that has a built-in circuit breaker to protect the gauge in case the zener diode or other wiring shorts, and attaches nicely to the gauge with a nut. I found a Runtz without the circuit breaker online for $3.25, that appears to be just a zener diode with connectors on the leads. I'm a retired electronic circuit designer and I have a bunch of the proper voltage zener diodes, but n
  3. I converted my 1951 Special to 12 volts. I have not hooked up the gas gauge yet. The sending unit is a new one from CARS (oldbuickparts.com) that is correct for the 6 volt system, with a range of 0 to 26 ohms. What should I use for a resistor, or network of resistors to make the gauge read right with 12 volts? Thx, Dave
  4. The fuel pump in my 1951 Special (263 engine) is bad. The engine is out of a 1953 Special and I recently rebuilt it. The 1953 fuel pump started leaking so I put the 1951 pump on and it worked for awhile, but quit pumping. I have no idea if either engine had the correct year fuel pumps but they both worked. Questions: 1. When I look up fuel pumps and fuel pump rebuild kits online, they show different part numbers for 1946-1951 vs 1952-56. Is this right? I'm having a hard time believing the 1954 -56 V8s used the same pump as the 1952-53 straight 8s, but I see them liste
  5. Thanks for the response. I found on another board that the bearing is a special sandwich of metal-rubber-metal for absorbing engine vibration. Steele rubber makes one with a couple spacers that go on each side of it. Steele gets $53.40 for the parts, but Bob's Automobilia (Bob's Buicks) has the steel parts for $44.00. It is Steele part # 70-2029-24. Dave
  6. I need a clutch equalizer or the bearing that goes in the end (and maybe the spring too) for a 1951 Buick Special. See equalizer drawing and bearing at the left end of it below (shop manual photo). Please contact me at outbdnut@hydrohaven.com Thx, Dave
  7. On my '51 Buick Special, after dropping in a replacement engine and transmission, I noticed when hooking up the clutch to clutch pedal linkage that what the shop manual calls the "clutch equalizer" seems to have parts missing.(see diagram from manual below).The bearing on the end is missing. The spring inside may also be missing. Where can I get parts for this?......or does somebody have dimensions so I can make a bearing? it looks to be just a bushing that gets greased from the fitting on the housing....or I will also consider replacing the whole equalizer if I can find one. It appears that t
  8. Thanks for the info guys. Today I took a piston to my local NAPA store and they measured it with a precision calipers and determined it was standard. I ordered rings from NAPA while I was there. As for cylinder wear, I borrowed a ridge reamer and took out a very small ridge that I could barely see and feel. I don't plan on putting a lot of miles on this so putting in new rings without re-boring should be fine. I will hone the cylinders. Where I found the ".005 over" piston dimensions was in the 1951 shop manual specs. (page 2-4), where they listed dimensions for pistons at
  9. I just finished tearing down a 1953 263 straight 8 to see if it needed anything before I drop it into my '51 Special. I found two broken compression rings. I have the shop manual and all the engine specs, but my calipers is not accurate enough to measure to 3 decimal places and I'm not so sure about the accuracy of the 2nd decimal, so I can't determine if the engine is standard or .005 over. I think it's standard, but it's painted black, so may have been rebuilt and bored in the past. In the next couple days, i hope to buy a better caliper locally. Can anyone please tell me
  10. I just finished tearing down a 1953 263 straight 8 to see if it needed anything before I drop it into my '51 Special. I found two broken compression rings. I have the shop manual and all the engine specs, but my calipers is not accurate enough to measure to 3 decimal places and I'm not so sure about the accuracy of the 2nd decimal, so I can't determine if the engine is standard or .005 over. I think it's standard, but it's painted black, so may have been rebuilt and bored in the past. In the next couple days, i hope to buy a better caliper locally. Can anyone please tell me
  11. Hi, My name is Dave, and I joined Buick Club of America back in the 1990s but was not active on forums. The last 8 years, I let my membership lapse because of things going on in my family that took most of my time, but that is now in the past and I'm back as a BCA member again. I have a '51 Buick Special Deluxe 2 dr sedan (46D if I remember right). It's one of the few with the 3-speed tranny. Before I got the car it lived in a barn for 30 years. I replaced/rebuilt most everything mechanical outside the engine block, and after putting about 1500 miles on it, I converted it to 12 Volts.
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