ArticiferTom

Try The Filling Station . https://www.fillingstation.com/catalog/flippingbook/index.html#287/z .

Not saying your theory is wrong , actually think it is right . But the illustration for '31 is using straight piston not the step one's . So if you are using step type you would have to but longer shoe to back ,not like illustration . I had theses same quandaries when doing my brakes on a '31 . I opted to have sleeved straight . One other thing I would be interested in your option on . The fact they bonded my lining on, verses riveting as original . and by doing so ran the pad both to the long length , so I have no real short side . I,ve read where the step gave better performance and was a natural improvement . But found the original works fine on my small light truck with it's max 40mph speed . It is great having first hand knowledge brought to the forum , Thank you for it !

I like what your saying retiredmechanic74, but the Dodge illustration says opposite . It has the shorter shoe on rear of face plate . But does not say if it is primary or secondary . I do believe in 33 changes where made to step bore ,but do not know if shoe arrangement changed .

There are is a second location of serial numbers on frame . I believe you need body off, as it is hidden from bottom . Also would not get to worried as long as you have a title matching some number , even motor you should be able to straighten out . The requested pics may help by just showing where labels were located and there size and shape . Even tailgate hardware denote changes in years of the trucks . If you have motor on left side near back should have casting date info . PICS < PICS .

Pics will help . Number should be on frame left between shackles . also maybe on firewall plate .

BTT

May be you can get over blaster to bore out step and sleeve back to 1-1/4 then all would be good .

You are correct Dave , forgot to mention will cut deep fast with electrical dies . Thank You .

Any local or friends that are plumbers or electricians will have .

These two wood wheels for sale . marked 29 Desoto ,do not know myself . One has a slight subsurface delamination on a spoke ,see pic . Everything else is tight and had layers of paint on . Only one has cross bolts . asking 45 for the set plus shipping .

need number to run .

Congratulations . No excuses now for getting those DB's roll'in . Tom

I am in for a 4 set . Lets us see what they look like . Everyone is going so big . No needed with todays bright leds .

Is the switch shown on the wiring diagram ? Show us a copy if you can . And wire gage are usually listed in BOI, but min 14gage ,I think .

If diaphragm is leaking there will be gas leaking out bottom of pump also . As there is a hole to atmosphere to permit pump functioning . Is it down draft carb , flooding ?

yes , you can bench test gauges . You'll spend more time building a circuit to do it though . Amp gauge must be wired in series with a load such as spot light or something about one third at lest your gauge . Maybe a couple headlights . Then use a clamp-on digital on the circuit to check your accuracy . What ever you use ,be sure to FUSE . Another way is using a battery charger , but there gauges are not very detailed . On the gas . you have to know the range of resistance , go to Radio Shack get a resistor about half that value and wire in series in circuit gage should go to half or what ever resistor matches proportionally .

Ditto ,on excellent article .

Hey ! good to hear from you Doug . I know I was only thinking of because I will be changing anti freeze and want to silver paint the head as you said color is . One of those little get it back original projects . I had a Carter brass bowl rebuild to put back on it and get the Zenith with extension tube off. All hose and clamps and screws and nuts visible are proper . And the truck is driving good this year , put close to five hundred mile on .

Seem to remember putting two on to fill the gap . Put face to face , and was nice and was nice and tight . The e's post was on square face and ends right in to old punched notches .

It looks like a C but has a center post , making in a round E . The post helps keep it centered for max tension . Cannot remember if ground any more in grooves , do not think so .

After grinding mine off , put back with E-clip in to grooves .

Yes , on horn direction . Seen a car on site with it in correct place and with the longer stud , which mine has just was put back in wrong spot during rebuild in 90's, I guess . Any one ever pull the timing straight blade driver plug . Looks like a frozen one too .

They will make a key to mat your lock now that they can see pins . Take to old tyme locksmith

Water is a temp fix or more a maintenance fix . You will have to keep wet til repaired . This is why water crossing had thur paths also ,in 18th and older century . Raw linseed , not boiled will not dry out put will swell wood back up and hold if sealed with paint on outside . Takes many soakings and will darken wood .

Ditto on Safety harness . Always try to set your moves to be up down to approach work . Never drive to stop at work position or swing in fast to work . Older machines are prone to sticking and drift , given intermitted use . Never let anyone work in the bite or under . And buy your 50 lb bag of cat litter now . Save running latter in a hurry . LOL. Good luck , It will be such a time saver . Tom