ArticiferTom

Thanks again , I have the left hand bits and extractors . Decided to put job off until Winter break . first will just see how it looks with studs at current length and horn bracket . Have not looked to borrow collet remover , but does look like the promising tool for the job . Will advise on out come .

Kelly Blue Book or NADA goes back that far . May have to add a little as trucks are premium now . And untouched ones even more .

For the few times you have to lube . I pull originals and put modern on to add grease . Then change back . On steering I pull add squeeze in open hole from small tube of steering lube Double Ott .

broker-Len one thing you may want to do first is preform these test looking for the 30+ psi , with a straight non-d 30 wt oil . That how the numbers where developed . I believe mine to act the same as yours , when warm . It may the lube characteristics or todays oil and be fine for multi-grade . Book talks of clogged screen , leaky or broke tube , loose bearing and to heavy of body of oil .

So fraso , The manual calls for 40 summer on my 31 , 32 engine and winter 20 and thinned if below zero . Perhaps I should lower PVR setting in to 40's . It does not seem to cause any leaks . at this higher setting . Which is something they say to watch and tighten gaskets . On the spec 's I do not know at which point these engine when from these low compression to high compression in the thirties or what effect that has on your spec for latter engines . Book states lube is spray to rod and such . Also would need to verify gage accuracy before changing . My current oil change cycle is 500miles , above what is called for but a cheap do , since these motors have no filters . Thanks for all your input , I watched the vortex video . Neat stuff . But all this makes my head hurt LOL . We got to be doing better then the original clay base oils used then . Tom

Just some added info those kits are listed for Dodges and Plymouths from '39 to '50 . So anyone with those year vehicle may have hole size . Good luck on the hunt ! Tom

Ok, went out this evening and started her up . It is rainy and mid forties cool . Started and gauge showed 52 at high idle for minutes then as dropped idle to medium with choke still, went down to 48 . On rev. it would go up to 56 highest . my engine is a 90's rebuild with very limited mileage on it . Multi -grade been used by me and PO . My Zenith Carb does not idle down to low with out hiccupping and stall , unless engine is hot . Never got to that point . Would have to drive . But I know it goes down in 30's and twenties idle low . I do not know why reads above what should be by-pass , other then oil viscosity . My truck is a fair weather drive with it's wood board floor and no heater . Fraso ; on the statement about Winter , I could have it wrote it better . It was not what I thought , but what the book warned of ,no pressure on gage in Winter . oilp.pdf

My book of instr. for my truck ,which has the same PA engine . States SAE 40 summer , 50 for heavy duty service and extreme warm weather . Winter SAE 20 under freeze and above zero . So I use 15W-40 Diesel rated . It also says relief is set to trigger at 40psi , normal appox 30-40 lbs. with warm engine , driving . More concerned with no pressure on gauge in Winter . I do notice gage fluctuates with throttling .

Depends what your lubing , but that is a oil lube fitting . They where used on steering box , shackles in both locations different wt. oils where used .

Hagen Highway , Cylinder rebuilds and shoes . Just south of you in Washington state . Great work on sleeving my w/c's and bonding shoes . Been doing decades . https://hagensautoparts.com/1929/dodge

I am seeing same in Truck book . There was no change in body only lens . BY GEORGE I think you got it , Graham .

Thought of another problem I had . Poor connection in fuse at back of amp gage . By-pass a good wire direct to coil and start . Mine would start and go off with load . Had to clean and soldier holders and wires .

Thank You dep5 , yes I got that number 543154 from my Truck MPB and it is my tail light as an assembly . In the prior posts we broke it down to just the lens to determine if it was the smaller or larger version of light . We determined it was smaller and used on the trucks and Plymouth cars in '28- '31 . However 1931 advertising show the larger light and a revision was made late in '31 or early '32 and a new number listed . Just for record and to show the ads were not wrong . I am searching out that number 312548 as the newer lens . But do not know it size ,until can compare to a car with it on . Hope I am not to confusing , the fact of so few trucks, makes tracking from cars only option . Tom

Hook up to a isolated fuel supply . I had similar and was drawing large rust that blocked pickup tube . Lack of fuel ,nothing in filters.

Thanks all . That concludes that it is the small 3-5/8 model I already have on . I doubt they had the script on . So both advertising pics are wrong or the MPB is . One more item I want to check is there was a change made about a thousand serial number later let me grab those numbers . Maybe they upped then . After sn 8005681 the lens was pn. 312548 by the truck MPB . ANYBODY SEE THAT LENS number . 312548 thanks tom

Great ! Ply33 do you have a pic of what this now looks like . Is it a 3-5/8 or 4-5/8 " dia . ? The 543154 I posedt may be as assembly with black metal bucket as opposed to chrome . thanks

In my book list, lens as 300132 , Lamp door as 300130 ,and lamp door shell as 300131 . I too do not know what that is . See if any one can find that way . I am leaning toward Chrysler or Desoto numbers .

The problem I have is . The current light I put on is like you show only no script DODGE . However that is not the light shown in the catalog pic above . Note , screws are off center ,lower , and away from edge . So I went to my MPB to get number ,now trying to work from same number in cars to see it . Truck above may had been special display for artist / photo . Did you find that number ?

Thanks ,That is kind of what I was thinking , they could go in block . The only advantage I have is fact they where out back in early 90's for rebuild . Yes , would have to use thin nuts . I'll check with my mechanic ,sure he has one of those tool . This is getting to be to much to just relocate the horn and have the studs proper .

Looking to remove two head studs and switch locations they where installed wrong years ago . The one is long to accept horn bracket , see pic . It should be up one stud forward . Do not want to remove head . Maybe double nut to extract ? And is stud in blind hole or to coolant chamber ? This is a Plymouth 4cylinder '31 Silver dome engine . Thank in Advance .TOM

This number is tail light listed for my "31 Dodge Pickup #543154 . Pic attached show it to be over 4+" ,chromed ringed only ,beehive type . It surely matches to some car Plymouth , Desoto ,or other mopar . Looking for that info . Thanks Tom

Check DBC site ,all spring info listed .

Green area Is on west end . Do not know rt number . It is one exit south of Grantville . There are three exits to get you to Hershey . All get you to same loop connecting road around the complex's .

Close , got'em