ArticiferTom

If you could find the white protector sheeting they put on new cars when they ship them . You can just put local to that window , I think it is removed with heat gun at dealership . If not keep vents of heating system open and it will exchange air as you go down the road .

Sounds like Carb or timing . See these pdfs. leaning more to timing , mine did same with slight low reading till I adjust . Even though points set . Vacuum takes all wear and lash out of setting . Press - Vacu test4.pdf Press - Vacu test5.pdf

Just check on your 84 to 81 to 80 . Major construction start on North bound 81 this week and are switching to southbound when done . They said intense for next 4 weeks . I would use 84 to 380 (by-passing 81) to 80 . Looks bad on map but is total open road . I use when going to New England. Just 15 miles west of 80 x 81 split speed goes up to 70 MPH . I live a stone throw from that split ,If needed . Tom

I total agree !!

Great to see . You always do it well !

Love that book 30DodogePanel . Can you send me a zoom shoot of that back and any front pics you have of UF-10's . I some what agree as Graham certainly could have changed thing up especially on special order or lesser made units . But I attached a copy from the DB Master Parts catalog . It states Twilight used after 8002296 . The Guide and C.M.Hall must both been considered depress beam dual filament type . DB MAster.pdf

Yeah' think early ones were made by Depress or called Depressed headlight .

My guess is late '30 . The UT engine makes it same as Ply U spec wise . Also I believe Sn in wrong should be seven digits . The easiest way to date is look at the casting date of engine ,driver side under starter, was build a month or two later . Type headlights do not look like Guide Twilights they changed to in '31. Yes can still get build cards . Got mine last year .

I used tin snips ,was not the best . But dress able after cleaned out . Leave water in to top if cut any other way , to displace vapors .

Be careful with gravels and such as my Dodge had two baffles and the pickup soldered to inside . Remove tank to be sure top is not rusted . Moisture tends to accumulate and eat the top first . I cleaned with shaper then Evapo Rust but since top was perforated cut open and used electrolysis .Then finished with Naval Jelly . Hard part was finding a weld shop willing to weld top back on . Did not coat as that what was done 20 years ago, and started falling loose and rusting behind . Know just keep it full in Winter .

MAy try Dodge Brothers Web site also has general info posted . Attached is some examples of the 1914 to 1927 Mechanics Manual .also a private web site Plymouth the First Decades has a wealth of info .MEC Man.pdf

Looking for pic of '30 spring brackets . Need shackles . Tom

Congrats to the Plyroadking Family you did the best thing this weekend !! PS. There goes all your free time . And worth every minute .

I used a simple hand push pump/ suction gun from auto store . Above oil pressure limiter are the oil journals . Removed and installed 3/8 to tubing connector from hardware store and hand pushed in . Bleed air from gauge and helper say needle go up did X 3 and figured enough added additional to fill oil to level and started .

Hello Stakeside Your grain looks like mine . I just do not have as good example . Do you have a close up of your new and does it match to long grain ? Is your backing white on it ? Seems a small piece of your pic sample shows that . Was wondering also if any printing on the white .? Mine was on the back inside directly above rear pickup window . It says 4 CHASE 31 , SUPER LUSTRE , DREDNAUT . All components that are dated on my truck seem to be made in early 1931 .

I believe them to be original as I know it was restored in 90's and where placed back on backwards . Locking handle on driver side ,instead of passenger side and both units rotted with shells split . My truck is Graham / Dodge built in Oct. 19,1931 so maybe '32 Model UF-10 U2a-109. Question ,anybody have pic of the inside lock level for the driver side . Goes on a about a 3/16" square that has a tapped hole for holding screw ?

This of the non -locking side 4" x1" and the stem which I cut off to attach to my replacement is 3.5" and tapped hole, for inner handle . Shown by machinist rule w/ stop . Discolored one is my original and chromed one is another replacement I picked up . These style have plated brass covers with trim crease . Other I've seen solid without crease, same sized ,but do not know to what they go .

I grab some of mine tomorrow .

Clum Co . made not only headlight drum switches . Also push-pull switches for the dash and older style ignition handle switches . Tom

Thanks . A closer look at both shows a less random grain then yours . You can see the parallel of grain on mine near edge that was tucked under and protected . But is of a low profile .

Looks like what I might need. Do you have pic of backing . Attached are pics of my original .

Make sure you have that six volts or at least 5 when cranking . Mine did same found ignition wire switch /meter connections poor . Cleaned and soldiered to fix . Found by running by-pass jumper straight from battery lead at starter to coil . Then hit starter and found good spark at plug wire to ground .

I have not seen Lang's yet . But I have seen the long grain used on some Model A's and that does not look like mine . Mine is original 1931 Chase Drednuat Co . It is a thin and lightly , short grained material .I guess originally called oil cloth . As the base is a woven material . I have found Haartz Fabric to reproduce ,what sounds like something similar . I am curios on the fabric you have gotten know ,maybe with slight grain . Thanks

Looks great ! What roofing are you going to use ? Did you have any original sample left .

Dixie Gun Works sells flat spring stock . You bend to shape and temper in set . They use, to reproduce springs in old flint and percussion guns .Also a clock repair shop may have .