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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. Yes , if the building is unheated the air will hold the moisture, but only the air and object within . This why ventilation high and low is important limiting the moisture to atmospheric only . This will reduce itself faster with roof heating from sun . Go in most barns the bottom on grade floor is damp but second hay storage area is always dry or drying ,but also cold or hot . Or why even a tight trailer off the ground is dry inside . I would probable add a internal work shop /garage inside with heat and a/c . Even the pre made shed/ garage stay dry because they are off the ground a co
  2. The vapor barrier is the most important item . There are plastic's made specifically for this it is very strong ( yellow ) and it is taped at joints with a (red) tape of equal strength . I'm sure there other brand , this is what I see used on large construction slabs at work . Plain poly plastic is not good enough ,it migrates moisture . They also put the vapor barrier down under the modified or gravel ,mostly done to protect it from concrete trucks and us electricians damaging it . Maybe pull back some of your sand if clean and place back or add new if available . Moisture will then on
  3. RESTORATER , or PRESERVER or TRUSTEE . any, maybe with OF THE PAST
  4. It needs something more . Like TECHNICIAN or SERVICEMAN or ENTHUSIAST .or HISTORIAN , something !
  5. Thank you, Was a pleasure talking to you about this . At time I did know where trans type changed away from that floating secondary shaft .
  6. Looking for on my '31 dodge pickup w artillery wheels . Speeds under 60 downhill with wind . Never heard of over heating ,was just looking for quality . Forums seem to say today's import tubes are so bad , of coarse with internet you only hear bad, not necessarily the other 500 good .
  7. Roger would that hold true for my 3speed trans and diff . on '31 dodge/ Graham truck w 4cyl Plymouth engine . 1500 wt steam oil ! I have trans drained and top off and flushed with kero ,as system was water contaminated .
  8. Attached some close ups . I think wd or kero may be just what it needs . I'm not sure know to get it out ,washer ring on bottom may be something . You'll have to careful because of gear reduction plug .
  9. If you remove it and oil it while spinning with a vari-sped drill . Do not use cable stick square something ie nail filed square . Is there lot of corrosion in the housing or is it just dry . I'll take pic of cable end to show after LLWS game.
  10. Sorry do not know exactly what you mean by nipping . Where the cable goes up into the housing you can stick a small screwdriver blade and turns freely the shaft right up to the magnetic dome . It also turn at a slow ratio the worm gear that drives the odometer . I see two pin with plastic washers under them . I think they hold the respective shafts in . Have you tried cleaning and lubing before taking that much apart (WD-40 ) . Remember to try avoid reduction gear inset . Call me if you need me to check something else out . When you look up the cable hole I see a split washer (ring) , do
  11. Well dropped the dash down to remove gauge .There was spring inside clock type ,but problem is the dial arm itself is broke off at spring spindle . May try to soldier it back together , doubt can find just that part . Every thing was dirty and grit ,old lube took pic after cleaning . Thoughts WELCOME on making repair .
  12. Was curious if any tried those motorcycle extra heavy 3mm tubes ebay sells ? Sounds like there almost double the strength .Is there any cons ie repairs,or valve stems ?
  13. Have barrel type meter on my '31 dodge pickup .Noticed cable bend and spread at trans. side so removed cable. While trying to push cable back together it slide back into connector looks great . But was it suppose to? How much end should stick out past trans. end , meter end has limiter attached on cable ? Also what lube should I put on cable before sheathing it ? I also note the meter moves when hand turning cable but never returns to zero , is there a spring inside ? This Forum's been great help for me getting this truck I recently acquired back on the road . I finally finished
  14. Any buddy try those 3mm thick ,extra heavy duty extreme motorcycle tubes ? Notice on ebay. sized for 19" ,.
  15. Took another look this weekend mine has a channel steel frame between seat frame and chassis frame .However do not see why it could not be wood . Probably support cab from ground independently , until doors lay out square and grab some measurements for wood .
  16. I do not see any wood sub frame of wood there are two short maybe 4x4 blocks about 12" long behind back of cab that support the pickup box front .Sorry can not be more help .Maybe some else can chime in .
  17. Here is some pictures of my floor , however the front section by pedals is plywood . meaning it is not original . All the pedal are just notched down from top 1/4x20 flat head bolt hold it down . There are two studs ,highlighted by cardboard, about size of 20 or 30pn nail head up about 3/8" that mat hooks to . from starter pedal center line right 2" plus 8"more to center second , I think maybe should have one on left side but mine does not .There is also a foot rest 1 3/4 " to left of starter pedal and 2" down from top . The mat is at least two pieces book pics show what looks like 3 .
  18. I'll help'ya out . On front part mine lays in lower rail section . Apparently same cowl was used on larger truck and upper rail was used on those . So that will give you the basic square dimension . Will get rest for 'ya . Tom
  19. Looks like a set of inside door and window handles on ebay . Not mine but match my '31 dodge /graham .http://www.ebay.com/itm/400975156075?item=400975156075&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
  20. Check out that Uvira in the search of Tech. Some good stuff. It's fogged on aluminum but has to be put over nickel and then glass coated to preserve it .
  21. Roger on that ! Do not know about Friday nite am going to try and get there Thur or Fri. Did you hear any thing from Rich if he got the hub puller or not. For an original Springfield priced at 45. was pretty good .
  22. Hello Stakeside ; I just started looking for headlight for my '31 dodge to replace sealed beams . Need some pics and info on lens and the bottoms ie. mounting and spacer ? Would greatly appreciate any help. You may want to do some more checking. I read something about a coating other than silver ,may have been aluminum or something ,it was not powder coat . But may been applied the same way .
  23. Got the pics from Glenn . It definitely helped me disassemble my frozen tire lock and showed me some lights need to get what I saw verified . I pm'ed George on it . On another note with brakes all removed I send every thing to Hagen's in Washington for sleeve and reline . Said about 5-7 working days . Is this Budds Creek something special for Dodges or trucks ? Tom
  24. Thanks for the offer ,but I did get one . Not sure if it was Rich with Blue '29 did not know it as Standard Six . He said his measured 2 1/4" and me and Norm found one on table about 4 or 5 vendors down from your setup. We went back and gave him the vendors card, he was going to find him when we left . Hey , Doug remember the booklet I bought . Well I contacted the guy in back with the other uf-10 pickup , his was only about 200 serial numbers from mine. When I called him Sunday ,he was a bite taken back . He did not know about the article being republished in DBC book . He first words w
  25. Hello George (assuming) . Yes my truck is in my avatar pic a'31 Dodge / Graham the thread are same front and back at 2 3/8x16 tpi . I had purchased a new McMurtry puller already . Put may be interested in an original . Was your friend the owner of the '29 dodge sedan who was looking for a puller and if so did he get the one we found from the vendor . I am looking to swap or buy set of headlights I have the seal beam Guide type on the truck now . I'am in contact with another '31 dodge owner now he saying , they are Twi-lite depressed beam two bulbs and metal not chrome about 9 3/8 or 8 7
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