ArticiferTom

If diaphragm is leaking there will be gas leaking out bottom of pump also . As there is a hole to atmosphere to permit pump functioning . Is it down draft carb , flooding ?

yes , you can bench test gauges . You'll spend more time building a circuit to do it though . Amp gauge must be wired in series with a load such as spot light or something about one third at lest your gauge . Maybe a couple headlights . Then use a clamp-on digital on the circuit to check your accuracy . What ever you use ,be sure to FUSE . Another way is using a battery charger , but there gauges are not very detailed . On the gas . you have to know the range of resistance , go to Radio Shack get a resistor about half that value and wire in series in circuit gage should go to half or what ever resistor matches proportionally .

Ditto ,on excellent article .

Hey ! good to hear from you Doug . I know I was only thinking of because I will be changing anti freeze and want to silver paint the head as you said color is . One of those little get it back original projects . I had a Carter brass bowl rebuild to put back on it and get the Zenith with extension tube off. All hose and clamps and screws and nuts visible are proper . And the truck is driving good this year , put close to five hundred mile on .

Seem to remember putting two on to fill the gap . Put face to face , and was nice and was nice and tight . The e's post was on square face and ends right in to old punched notches .

It looks like a C but has a center post , making in a round E . The post helps keep it centered for max tension . Cannot remember if ground any more in grooves , do not think so .

After grinding mine off , put back with E-clip in to grooves .

Yes , on horn direction . Seen a car on site with it in correct place and with the longer stud , which mine has just was put back in wrong spot during rebuild in 90's, I guess . Any one ever pull the timing straight blade driver plug . Looks like a frozen one too .

They will make a key to mat your lock now that they can see pins . Take to old tyme locksmith

Water is a temp fix or more a maintenance fix . You will have to keep wet til repaired . This is why water crossing had thur paths also ,in 18th and older century . Raw linseed , not boiled will not dry out put will swell wood back up and hold if sealed with paint on outside . Takes many soakings and will darken wood .

Ditto on Safety harness . Always try to set your moves to be up down to approach work . Never drive to stop at work position or swing in fast to work . Older machines are prone to sticking and drift , given intermitted use . Never let anyone work in the bite or under . And buy your 50 lb bag of cat litter now . Save running latter in a hurry . LOL. Good luck , It will be such a time saver . Tom

Thanks again , I have the left hand bits and extractors . Decided to put job off until Winter break . first will just see how it looks with studs at current length and horn bracket . Have not looked to borrow collet remover , but does look like the promising tool for the job . Will advise on out come .

Kelly Blue Book or NADA goes back that far . May have to add a little as trucks are premium now . And untouched ones even more .

For the few times you have to lube . I pull originals and put modern on to add grease . Then change back . On steering I pull add squeeze in open hole from small tube of steering lube Double Ott .

broker-Len one thing you may want to do first is preform these test looking for the 30+ psi , with a straight non-d 30 wt oil . That how the numbers where developed . I believe mine to act the same as yours , when warm . It may the lube characteristics or todays oil and be fine for multi-grade . Book talks of clogged screen , leaky or broke tube , loose bearing and to heavy of body of oil .

So fraso , The manual calls for 40 summer on my 31 , 32 engine and winter 20 and thinned if below zero . Perhaps I should lower PVR setting in to 40's . It does not seem to cause any leaks . at this higher setting . Which is something they say to watch and tighten gaskets . On the spec 's I do not know at which point these engine when from these low compression to high compression in the thirties or what effect that has on your spec for latter engines . Book states lube is spray to rod and such . Also would need to verify gage accuracy before changing . My current oil change cycle is 500miles , above what is called for but a cheap do , since these motors have no filters . Thanks for all your input , I watched the vortex video . Neat stuff . But all this makes my head hurt LOL . We got to be doing better then the original clay base oils used then . Tom

Just some added info those kits are listed for Dodges and Plymouths from '39 to '50 . So anyone with those year vehicle may have hole size . Good luck on the hunt ! Tom

Ok, went out this evening and started her up . It is rainy and mid forties cool . Started and gauge showed 52 at high idle for minutes then as dropped idle to medium with choke still, went down to 48 . On rev. it would go up to 56 highest . my engine is a 90's rebuild with very limited mileage on it . Multi -grade been used by me and PO . My Zenith Carb does not idle down to low with out hiccupping and stall , unless engine is hot . Never got to that point . Would have to drive . But I know it goes down in 30's and twenties idle low . I do not know why reads above what should be by-pass , other then oil viscosity . My truck is a fair weather drive with it's wood board floor and no heater . Fraso ; on the statement about Winter , I could have it wrote it better . It was not what I thought , but what the book warned of ,no pressure on gage in Winter . oilp.pdf

My book of instr. for my truck ,which has the same PA engine . States SAE 40 summer , 50 for heavy duty service and extreme warm weather . Winter SAE 20 under freeze and above zero . So I use 15W-40 Diesel rated . It also says relief is set to trigger at 40psi , normal appox 30-40 lbs. with warm engine , driving . More concerned with no pressure on gauge in Winter . I do notice gage fluctuates with throttling .

Depends what your lubing , but that is a oil lube fitting . They where used on steering box , shackles in both locations different wt. oils where used .

Hagen Highway , Cylinder rebuilds and shoes . Just south of you in Washington state . Great work on sleeving my w/c's and bonding shoes . Been doing decades . https://hagensautoparts.com/1929/dodge

I am seeing same in Truck book . There was no change in body only lens . BY GEORGE I think you got it , Graham .

Thought of another problem I had . Poor connection in fuse at back of amp gage . By-pass a good wire direct to coil and start . Mine would start and go off with load . Had to clean and soldier holders and wires .

Thank You dep5 , yes I got that number 543154 from my Truck MPB and it is my tail light as an assembly . In the prior posts we broke it down to just the lens to determine if it was the smaller or larger version of light . We determined it was smaller and used on the trucks and Plymouth cars in '28- '31 . However 1931 advertising show the larger light and a revision was made late in '31 or early '32 and a new number listed . Just for record and to show the ads were not wrong . I am searching out that number 312548 as the newer lens . But do not know it size ,until can compare to a car with it on . Hope I am not to confusing , the fact of so few trucks, makes tracking from cars only option . Tom