ArticiferTom

Hello again Carbking ,We discussed this carb a few months ago . well finally had time to clean a little and checked the main jet number . I original read as 12/735 ,you said maybe 12/ 73s . Under magnification ,NO YOUNG EYES AVAILABLE, is 12/135 . Maybe now we can figure out what it goes to . Has 1-5/16" flange hole with 2-3/4" spacing bolts .

Interesting ! I have heard of '29 maybe older Plymouths using a clum with 11xx series number . So these numbers could have been sequential or with revisions . Does your head light still have two elements and refractor change for low beam along with dimming effect ? Also the ground you have maybe in your horn circuit . Or does that junction block jumper from top terminal to middle terminal . Bottom looks to be straight thur to dash light . Just curious . Will keep a eye out , Clum co. was started in late teens and made other plain type switches ,the armored cable wire from ignition to coils also dash lever switches for both cars and early planes and boats . My '31 dash light push /pull is by them .

My '31 build truck has the 9150 Clum also I would say there original . I also have a # 8821 that I believe is from Chrysler with six terminals .

I have not see that type yet . What is wrong with it . From wiring diagram others should work . If that is wiring diagram of your truck ,why is power wire from generator crossed out ? And it looks like switch has a dimming coil for the low beam . I am not sure how it is suppose to work , unless it just adds to the optical direction-ing of the beam . By dimming . The switch seems to have six terms using 5 .

The Filling Stations sells new .Otherwise de-solder the tip ,which look like 1/8" head cupped tacks .Skin 1/8" off new wire , flux both pieces good , push pin in to wire and thin electronics grade solder with a quick heat and solder . It does take some practice . I added a piece of heat shrink tube about 3/4" to cover the skinned 1/8" and fill the hole in bake-lite . The old Rubber insulation was fatter then we use today , use automotive wire not building wire .

I think this was a double post . Go up to page 3 and same post, Monday is there with all 20 replies.

Taylor ,you should have known better , even there toilets flush backwards . That Spinneyhill LOL . He is alway getting use out of jams . Tom

Cann't you just put a bolt in hole next to, that would that pressure off spring . Then welding will be easy for a good tig welder . May be able to add stiffener inside also . Find a welder before disassembling .

That's what it is all about . Look'in Great.

My '31 Dodge truck has the metal joint at junction by steering box . Looks to be one piece stamped mirror image, on of sheet metal with half of the diameters of loom pressed in each side along with middle void . Part is then folded over and has tab on one half that bend over others edge .

Hello 51 , A few things I learned doing mine last year . A) that tool ,puller ,you show worked on one of the two rear wheels . The passenger side would not budge . I got the new tool you show 4 whacks later ,done . George makes them great . if you ask in Chrysler Forum some one may send you one for postage ,there are very nice people there . Or if you have local club ,plus I have seen at swap meets originals for under 100 bucks . I am across states in Pa . and will offer use of mine . Take measurement of across threads . Should be 2-3/8"X 16 TPI tapered . You will measure about 2.368 to 2.374 near back . Model T is different ,will not work ! B ) Refer to Oct 15 2015 thread I have . WTK changing tire , artillery wheels . Explains a word of caution . good luck TOM

Yes , Kbb only goes back to 92 and does have 2500 ,3/4 ton at about 1700 too 4000 . But ebay has two now one was relisted because did not meet reserve at 8000 other older '84 looking for 5000 . Had seen one for sale along highway for 13,000 . Thanks for NADA info . I just kinda went off KBB and ebay . Either way ,I guess we can start high ,have all Winter to unload .

Your welcome.

The specs for all Dodge springs ,including curve height , are listed on DBC site in tech info .

The Filling Station has as two parts . The Chevy headlights used same type . However I did find the new inside wire and insulator had to be turned down a few thousands to fit old original outers I had . However they may fit their shells with the armor flex cover .

Our organization is trying to decide on selling there 1988 R30 RWD Suburban ,454ci ,double rear door . Is there some value above what blue book says ? We have seen others for sale and up to triple KBB . We only put about 800 miles a year on it in summer only to tow are trailer . So has very low mileage .And some kind of super torque convertor was added to it ,with a engine overhaul in '05 by a member . Location is east ,central PA. But by no means a rust bucket . As original owner only used same way for large boat .

Do not used todays ethanol gas ,your carb gaskets or any rubber may suffer soon . Use non-ethanol ,does not need leaded .Leaded fuel is product of 60's I believe . Octane would be nice if lower but regular non-E is 91 .

I second above . May be loose contact to arm connection . It looks to be were heat is . Try new set .

Yes , making one would be next move . Figured since this is common Mopar design someone would have something . There is no drain in this channel so should fill it completely . Tried different size rubber tubings ,vac/wiper hose seems to ridge when stuffed in . Needs to be 1/4 sq with and extra dome top to it . Close to some of Restorations close cell ,just smaller .

Thanks Knobless , but that's not it .I've seen those chevron shaped ones . To wide and note mine is higher than cowl yours recessed .jpage , I was at there tent at Hershey said they had nothing small enough ,just the same chevron type . I'll look the numbers up you gave .Restoration was helpful with windshield stripping and some fabric selection .

Been trying to get the right seal for my cowl vent .Orders have brought ones that do not fit . It has only a 1/4" channel to fit in on my 31 Dodge Truck . Would like to see profile of yours . Maybe it goes over the edges ,or something I am missing . If you have a part number from a vendor better yet as none have clear pics of what they sell .

Harry did you try You-Tube they have video's on testing coils with an ohmmeter . Just to make sure as replacing can get expensive . May just want to hide a modern one on firewall inside .

Yes , that is not it. There is the throttle hard linkage hook up ,with the extra arm seeming like it had to pull upward from shown position to advance throttle .

He did mention the many applications and hand throttle . I did not know separate hand throttles cabled to carb as mine goes to linkage . Here is other view . The throttle pump is missing ,but overall is good with no rust , a little of original tag under screw but choke frozen . I'am not sure I bought to use a display or trade for (D)RJH-08 228s for my '31 truck with PA =UT engine . Any one have a pic of that hookup hand cable ?

Picked up this carb at Hershey .Looking to find out what the extra arm is for on it . Talked to Carbking was not sure may be to advance distr. as it only functions on acceleration of throttle . This may also ID it's engine and vehicle . The one my finger is on .