Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. You’ll find the original the day after you find and buy a replacement. With the help of my ever patient wife, we inventoried every part for my 32DL, made a detailed list and packed everything in plastic containers. It all started when I couldn’t find one of my metal ribbed headlight connectors. As we went through everything, it still wasn’t showing up. Then I pulled out each empty shelf and there it was resting on the edge of the concrete garage foundation. It had fallen off the back of one of the shelves. I hope you have success - believe me, I feel your pain!
  2. Wow, I didn’t know they still had wood sills in 34. My 32DL has wooden floors, but the sills are metal and integral with the body. I do have a sill like assembly around the top of the tool box.
  3. If the shaft on that shock is still good, you can rebuild it yourself for a few bucks. Even if the shaft is bad, you can still do it with a sleeve. Detailed explanation in my thread The Resurrection Of Daphne.
  4. Not doubting you - my old eyes are going bad - but where are you seeing overspray? From the pictures, or have you made a personal visit to see the car?
  5. He’s a dealer near me. He’ll probably hold out for the higher number based on previous discussions with him on other cars. With any dealer, you’re paying for the car and the dealer’s overhead. Not faulting or complaining, as a good dealer will back his cars and give the buyer a bit of security you might not get from a private purchase. Note I said good dealers. I’m not real comfortable with the lower section of this car. The reflections off the fender do not match with those of the door. Seems a bit wavy, but maybe it’s just me.
  6. The early 49 models had side curtains. They changed to roll up during the 49 Model year and stayed with that configuration until the end of the run. I had one. It ran but turned out to be a total rust bucket. The inner rockers - the backbone of the body - were virtually rusted away, as was most of the front floor. I found 4 NOS fenders for it and started the restoration. Then I found the the frame - unique to the convertible - was rusted badly. I could punch holes in the frame with the jab of a screwdriver. To add to the problem, the Wayfarer frames are short wheelbase, hard to find. After I added up the cost of chrome, paint, interior, top, tires, mechanical work and my labor - and found three nice ones for sale in the 20 to 25K range - I gave up and sold it, taking a $500 loss. (I was very lucky!). And the cars for sale took a long, long time to sell. I know one went for $16,000 and was a good solid car. A good sheet metal man who can weld and lay a good coat of paint could have had fun with it, I guess, but it was beyond my capabilities. In a stroke of irony, I sold that car plus my 48 Plymouth to purchase my 32 Dodge Brothers sedan - the first car I ever owned, the actual car. I probably have more time and money in it now than I would have had if I’d continued with the Wayfarer, but I’m enjoying this ride a lot more. Restoring something you love that is part of your past makes it worth it - at least to me.
  7. Lots of changes between 31 and 34. For instance, my 32 still has Babbitt bearings but I believe Chrysler products of the same year use insert bearings.
  8. My flat floorboards are all wood, but I have a two piece toe-board that is made of metal. I guess they went to all metal floors a year later with the 33s.
  9. Amazing to see the change in a single year. My 32 has no arms sticking out due to the then new Floating Power mounting system. How many times I wished I could just pull my transmission without taking half my car apart.
  10. I assume you’re sure all the bolts are off? There are several hidden under there that are easy to miss - I’ve done it myself. If they’re all off the manifold may be rusted to the studs. Maybe good penetrating oil and a little heat?
  11. Maybe I just got lucky, but I took my springs into an old time shop that had been in business for sixty years in St. Louis, Missouri. They cleaned and re-arched my springs, removed the old bushings and installed NOS bushings.
  12. I only need four, so I’m in better shape than you are. My Dodge Brothers only uses them on the rear spring chassis mounts.
  13. Boy, getting old is a pain! My knee finally gave up the ghost. Currently, I am unable to walk more than ten feet. Kneeling or work on Daphne is completely impossible. I’m having knee replacement surgery July 16th. Hopefully, the recovery will be speedy and I can get back to work on my car early this fall. It’s very discouraging, but part of life, I guess. In the meantime, I’m going to try and finally do the headlight wiring since I can sit down doing it while my ever patient wife brings me the parts and tools needed. Talk about feeling absolutely helpless.
  14. I was right - Steele offers two different thrust washers for Chrysler products. After my knee re-lacement on July 16th, I’m hoping for a speedy recovery so I can get back to my restoration and resolve the problem - in other words, hope that one of the two fits.
  15. Any idea how thick the thrust washers are? My 32 Dodge Brothers uses the same system. Are there thrust washers at each end of the sleeve? I can make them if I know the thickness and approximate hardness of the rubber. I seem to recall seeing something in the Steele catalog, but can’t find it now.
  16. I think “Free Squealing” and “Changable Seatcover” gives the gag away.
  17. Most silent film was shot at 18 frames per second. When sound came in, they upped it to 24 frames per second for better sound resolution. Transfers from film are usually made at 24 frames per second, which makes everything Keystone Kops frantic with everything moving at an exaggerated pace. New computer technology can now slow things down to actual speed and the results are stunning.
  18. Thanks. I’ve been trying to figure out a solution for some time.
  19. Did you make the firewall pad and board? Looking to do my 32 Dodge. I have the old board and pad, but they are soaked with mice urine.
  20. I think the problem with this particular car is that there have been multiple posts, all of them similar, and folks on the forum get a bit tired of this showing up over and over again with the same claims as to price and value. You can only comment so many times and try to point out the car’s problems before total frustration sets in. The fact that no one has purchased the car and that generally people have remained slack-jawed at the condition and asking price should tell the seller he is off base and dreaming. Fifty grand buys a fantastic car - this isn’t one of them.
  21. Then and Now did a great job on my 32 Dodge Brothers mounts. Fast service and reasonable prices. I just sent in the cores and got back what looked like NOS mounts. A must if you have Floating Power.
  22. The illustrators had nothing to do with the guys that engineered the car. Their job was to make their illustrations long, low and built for speed. Advertising illustrations for my 32 Dodge Brothers show a car totally different from my sedan. Although my body has a chopped look already (many people have asked me if I chopped it and are surprised when I tell them it's stock) it's nowhere near as radical as in the drawings. As long as you have good clearance under the fenders - fronts especially - I don't see a problem lowering the car a bit. i always prefer the stock look, but your car has been so heavily modified over the years I don't think it would harm anything. I'm personally in favor of keeping the running boards for structural and aesthetic reasons, but it's not my car. Glad to see you're making progress.
  23. The axel and the outer race come out together, as ply33 states. The axel will have two bearings on it, back to back, with a small ridge on the axel separating them. The bearings are a real pain to get off the axel, but at least it’s out. This leaves the inner bearing race and the inner seal still in the axel housing. You need a three-jaw slide puller to get the race out and this process will tear up the inner seal. Fun, huh?
  24. Try putting the drum on loosely with no key and then slamming the drum back on the bolt - I used a large washer to protect the bolt. All you are trying to do is get the outer bearing race free. Hitting the drum won’t work. Sliding it toward you with a hammering motion will. I’ve done it many times. Make sure the backing plates are off and the seals are off. You should be able to see the outer race and the bearing at the end of the axel housing. As you work the drum, you will see the race easing out of the housing.