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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Then maybe the wiring was original. I guess it must have mummified into what made me think it was plastic. So, now what?
  2. As I said earlier I picked up my front seat from the upholstery shop. Looks good. The new wood base I made fits perfectly which was a relief. It was hard to get a straight on shot due to current storage in my living room corner and the parallax makes the top buttons look crooked - which they are not. I'm working on my headlight wiring which was in rough shape. This is the wiring section inside the headlight itself. The socket on the left is for the bulb, the one on the right fits into a receptacle in the headlight shell and connects to the wire that goes through a
  3. A really cool and interesting car. My only problem, and I say this with disappointment because this is a lovely car, is the seventies paint job. Who, why and when did restorers decide that beige bodies with chocolate fenders was the way to go? It’s not even mildly charming, like the old avocado green kitchen appliances - and that was the original color. I’m not sure what the original color/colors were on this car, but it had to be more attractive than the current paint job. Again, not denigrating the car, just someone’s past mistake in choosing those awful colors.
  4. Thanks, I may be able to make it work.
  5. The shot is perfect, but the resolution is a bit too low. Is this off the net or one of your personal photos?
  6. When I'm not working on restoring my 1932 Dodge Brothers Sedan, I often work on art projects or model building. I'm currently working on a three-dimensional shadow box featuring a scene from a Film Noir film - two detectives sitting in a period car. I have two of the three elements I need, a very sharp photo of the two actors in the car taken directly from the film, and a period background of a 40s Los Angeles street at night. What I don't have is a good shot of the car they are sitting in. Try as I might, I can find nothing on the internet that works. The photo below comes as close as I
  7. Hanging in there and trying to lose some weight before I have knee replacement surgery. I actually got my newly reupholstered front seat back a few weeks ago and I’ll post some pictures after the holidays. I’ve also completed all the wood floorboards and am waiting for a warm day to paint them. I’m also working inside, wiring my headlights and cowl lights. It’s very difficult to get around at the moment with bone on bone arthritis in my right knee, but I am making progress - mostly from a seated position.
  8. If you’ve ever seen a two axle wagon (with the front axle able to turn) you’ll abandon that idea in a heartbeat. They use them around here to carry nitrogen tanks for fertilizing the farm fields. If you’ve ever been behind one of these rigs being pulled by a tractor, wobbling all over the road at fifteen miles an hour, you’ll never forget it. They appear to be constantly trying to steer themselves into a ditch no matter how straight the tractor is going.
  9. It’s hard to tell from the photos, but I’m pretty sure that’s a later engine in this car. There are no exposed cylinder jackets on the lower part of the motor as there should be on a 32. I also don’t see a handbrake lever next to the gearshift lever which probably means the transmission has also been changed. In that shot under the dash there appears to be a later handbrake lever like the one on my 48 Plymouth cobbled onto the side panel. Add in the previously mentioned rust, improper door sills, poor paint and shabby appearance and I’d stay away from this one unless you’re planning an ext
  10. Looks like a nice car. The color may hurt you a bit. These seem to be going in the $8000 range. If the work on the motor is documented, that will help you. The problem with these cars is the limited top speed, which relegates them to back roads and small town driving. Good luck with the sale.
  11. Getting ready to do the firewall pad on my 32 Dodge Brothers. May I ask where you got the jute and the fiber board? My pad is not as thick as yours and appears to have a single layer of jute. What did you find to be the best method to cut the jute to shape? How about the fiberboard. Both of your materials look to have very clean cuts.
  12. The Carioca, Now that’s a car I’d like to see someone build. I wonder if there are any other drawings of this proposed design.
  13. ‘I assume you mean corn head grease. What alternative do you recommend?
  14. As I said in the post, they were repaired by Jeff Holzmer. He welded in new metal and reshaped the openings to the correct size.
  15. When working on my drag link, I wasn't having much luck finding NOS parts other than threaded inserts and new internal springs. Then Curti on this site suggested I contact Jeff Holzmer in Woodbury, Minnesota. He replaced the pitman arm balls on several Auburns for Curti and came highly recommended. Since my pitman arm was very similar, if not identical to the Auburn arm, I thought I'd get in touch. He agreed to work on mine and also to repair my damaged drag link. I'm very happy with the work. Here are some before and after photos. The pitman arm before...
  16. You seem to be interested in originality, but changed the car to 12 volts? It looks like an older paint job in the first place, so I’m not sure why you think you’re owed a new paint job on the whole car. Maybe I’m being naive, but I can’t imagine taking a car to a shop and let them sit the car outside month after month. You said you took some pictures six month ago - did you not notice it being stored outside at that time? Did you occasionally stop by the shop to check progress and find it sitting outside? I think the shop owes you an explanation and a fix and repaint on the fender. I th
  17. My engine rebuilder said it might need adjusting. Not sure why he thought so - I’m giving him a call Monday. I used a new temporary gauge, not the original, to test the oil pressure. I’ll try the original gauge and see what that reads. At least I have too much pressure rather than not enough.
  18. Is there a gap between the cover and the block? I don’t think mine is screwed all the way in. Any pictures would help.
  19. Starting and running the engine a few times and some minor problems have cropped up. The oil pressure is running 65 pounds, which I think is too high. Looks like I may have to adjust the pressure relief valve. I found a small oil leak at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I tightened the cover bolts and it seems to have stopped the leak. I certainly hope so, as the thought of having to replace the cover gasket is not something I want to consider. I also found a leak around the pressure relief valve cover - which is more of a screw on domed fitting in the side of the block. This will
  20. Externally it looks like the BB on my 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan. Mine is really for a 32 DeSoto, but the two motors are almost identical and it works fine on my car. As Carbking says, without the tag, you just can't tell.
  21. Retapping to 1/4 inch is the obvious answer. There is plenty of meat on the plate, so it should be an easy process. I like to keep things as original as possible, but since most of it is hidden inside the wood block, I'm not going to have a coronary over it. Thanks for all the advice. And I tried all the outlets suggested above with no luck. It's the length that is the problem.
  22. Those are coarse threads #12-24. I need fine thread, #12-28. Thanks for trying!
  23. 2.25 would work, but I figured they would be impossible to find. The two inch were just short - just. I may just retap the holes for a 1/4 inch bolt that is easy to find.
  24. The rearmost wooden floorboard. The four bolts along the back are just an inch long, so that was no problem. The two front bolts pass through the floorboard and a wood block spacer before they thread into a tab on the frame. Sometimes you just have to wonder, something this minor ends up holding things up for days.
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