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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. That’s a possibility, but I don’t relish taking the transmission apart after I just rebuilt it.
  2. Unfortunately, I used the Permatex Quick Metal Sealer during the last go around. That’s why I thought I had the problem solved. As to the bolt, all my bolts have the DB logo stamped on them and I’m trying to keep things as original as possible. My knee problem seems minuscule next to your injuries. Glad you’re back on your feet.
  3. So I’m back at work on Daphne. The first thing I noticed were nearly all the nuts and bolts around the tranny and the handbrake had rusted to a rich golden brown. I spend two days cleaning them up and painting them. No big deal, except after I put the car up on stands I discovered a puddle of oil under the transmission. The leak that I thought I’d finally fixed last summer has returned with a vengeance. The oil is coming out around the shafts in the tranny. I thought I had sealed them up, but I was wrong. So out comes the tranny for the third time. This time I’m going to see if there is enough room to drive a freeze/casting plug into the shaft opening, providing I can find one with the correct diameter. I can’t understand why the trans was designed this way. It wouldn’t have been that hard to leave the rear shaft openings closed at the back of the transmission. Anyway, back to the drawing board.
  4. Anyone out there an expert on ball bearings? I discovered two 3/8 inch ball bearings in my transmission shifter gate are in less than stellar condition. They are simple round ball bearings held against a detent by a coil spring. I see they are available all over the place, but with different ratings and varying prices. What should I be looking for as far as hardness and material? Will stainless hold up, or should i stick with steel? I just want something that will wear well and hold up under the pressure of constant shifting. I know there is a lot of cheap Chinese junk on the market, so I'm searching for a good source. All this over two little balls of steel!
  5. As far as I know, these units take 10w oil, not tranny fluid.
  6. Wow, this should resolve most of those originality problems you’ve been having. Are you going to use the front fenders off the sedan? I recall the roadster fenders were a problem early on.
  7. Yeah, I did the same search, but couldn't find the post I'm talking about. It may have been called something else, or buried in another topic. Hopefully, whoever posted the information will spot this and reply.
  8. Several month ago someone posted an excellent source for cloth hidem welt in various colors and patterns. The vendor was selling it in 30 and 60 foot rolls at a reasonable price. As usual, I managed to loose the the name of the company and their website. If anyone can help me get the information back, i would be eternally grateful.
  9. Wow, sorry to hear that. I’ve enjoyed reading about all the trials and tribulations you’ve gone through with your car. Good luck with the sale.
  10. What parts are you looking for? What model Chrysler? Four or six cylinder?
  11. Hell, I cried when I got my 32DL back after 45 years. First car I ever owned. Bought it in 1965 and sold it to a buddy in 1967 - forced to sell by my dad. Cried when I sold it, too. Luckily, my buddy kept it all those years. Pardon me while I break down. ?
  12. Sitting around, waiting for my knee to heal, I dug out some photos of Daphne through the years of her restoration. I have to admit that the difference between the first photo ( the day I first saw her after 45 years and the last photo (a few months ago, before I installed the bumpers) is pretty remarkable. I'm heading out into the garage for the first time in many months to start working on her again. I'm still hobbling around, but I can actually move enough to work on the car. I won't make the national meet in Green Bay this year as i hoped, but the Lake of the Ozarks Meet in 2019 is my goal.
  13. IT's not always necessary. I've seen lead in perfect shape after eighty years, and I've seen it deteriorated, cracking and falling apart. On a full restoration, I'd take it out, make sure the surface below is in good shape, then replace with new lead - especially on a car with failed paint that's been out in the elements. Not always necessary, but a simple choice of how far you want to go. Body filler, even the reinforced variety might work, but I would question it's flexibility over a period of time. Filler is designed to be used in very thin coats, not in quarter inch slabs. Some of these leaded areas need a thicker coverage than practical with filler. But use what you think is practical, I've certainly been wrong before - and will be again. ?
  14. It's lead, the "body filler" of the day. The old lead needs to be melted out and the area re-leaded, which takes some skill.
  15. Do those doors look odd? Maybe cut down coupe doors, or was this a cabriolet - though the cowl looks correct for a roadster.
  16. How long ago did she run fine? Does the starter seem to spin about as fast as it did back in the day when the car would start? Before I messed with a 12 volt, I'd make sure the battery wires were in good shape, that there is a good ground, that the plugs are clean and in working order, the the motor is properly timed and gas is getting to the carb. Is the coil good? Make sure all the wiring is connected and in good shape.
  17. There are varying theories on this, ranging from absolute truth to total BS, but striking a hammer with another hammer is usually frowned upon. They can apparently shatter and spray metal shards. Just a friendly warning, and I may be all hot air.
  18. I feel your pain, Ian. Health issues and three film projects have my restoration temporarily stalled. My knee is now almost healed and I'm finishing up the last film, so with the weather warming up, I hope to get back to my car very soon. Sometimes I wonder where the time goes.
  19. My 32 Dodge Brothers has anti-squeak between the fenders and frame. Orgininal to the car when I took it apart.
  20. There is usually a thin anti-squeak material made of impregnated woven cloth between the body and frame. My 32 DB has a different mounting system, but my 29 Plymouth was set up like your car. It had the material between the fenders and the frame. The running board splash pans had the cutouts so they could be removed without taking the body bolts out. On my car, the rearmost hole in the fender lines up with the front body bolt and lines up the fender with the body. I can't remember if there was padding between the splash pan and the frame on the Plymouth, but there was between the body and the top of the splash pan.
  21. Hey guys, it's my knee that went bad. Thanks for the medical advice, but I obviously have to start posting something about restoring my car before this turns into General Hospital.??
  22. Looks like we're both on the same page. Maybe we could swap my shoulder for your leg.
  23. I guess it's the price of advancing age. I actually had a moment wondering if I'd live to see my car completed as they rolled me into the operating room. Hoping the coming Spring and sunshine improve my outlook. I have really enjoyed talking about the restoration, taking pictures and discussing problems and solutions. At the moment I'm missing all that terribly and feel I should be doing something, but physically just can't do it. Limped out to the garage today - a first - and the sight of Daphne waiting got the juices going. Hopefully I'll have something interesting to say here soon, rather than complaining about personal problems. No more bitching, I promise.