Taylormade

You can buy rubber pads of varying thicknesses on eBay. Find one of the required thickness and cut out the shape you need with a sharp utility knife with the blade dipped in water and dishwashing soap for lubrication. Glue in place with weather strip adhesive or use screws to attach to the wood.

But then it would be very authentic and disintegrate just like the original!

I think the Chrysler has a 25 inch motor and the Dodge a 23 inch block.

You think yours was bad - check out the front mount from my 32 dodge Brothers DL. And redone by Then and Now Automotive.

I was thinking the other day about a solution to the ubiquitous warped plastic dash panels in the 39 models - and others, too, I'm sure. I don't own a Chrysler, but have read many posts about this problem. Apparently, the plastic is molded onto the metal parts of the dash. Anyway, if someone could provide good, unwarped samples of these panels, they could be 3D scanned into a graphics program and then produced through 3D printing. Once the correct shapes were in the computer, any good designer could alter them to look the same and to fit over the metal parts rather than being molded on. This would also allow you to choose the correct color for the plastic. Once the initial scan and design was done, the printing of the parts would be simple and reasonably economical. Initial cost might be too high if you went strictly commercial, but if you could find a graphic designer/programmer who was interested in the hobby, you might get them to do the project at a reduced rate or even gratis. As I said, once the design work is done, the printing is the easy part. If enough 39 owners got together they could probably split the cost among the group. Maybe the WPC club could get involved. Or maybe someone has already done this and, as usual, I'm late to the game.

If you need any help picking it up or taking more pictures, let me know - I’m just down the road from the car.

EVERYTHING HAS BEEN SOLD. I'm cleaning out the garage and have a load of 46 to early 49 parts I hope someone can use. Lots of good dash parts and gauges, including a working temperature gauge. Three NOS headlight rims. NOS Moog suspension part. I'd like ten bucks each for the headlight rims, ten for the two dash grills (one is really nice) five apiece for the gauges and five for the Moog part, and twenty for the four door trim pieces (excellent shape, but I forgot to take a picture, but I can send), and ten bucks for the glove compartment door with all trim, plus shipping. I'd like thirty for the two rear fender guards. They are stainless and have a few dents, but everything can be worked out with a little patience, Everything else is free, you pay the freight. There are some good grill pieces, a turn signal switch and other miscellaneous parts. I know this is beating a dead horse and I'm not trying to be a jerk, but this stuff goes in the trash if nobody wants it. i just don't have the room to store this stuff since we downsized. Not a threat, just a sad fact. I'll ship the cheapest way possible and most of this stuff is small enough not to be too expensive.

I have three of the four pieces of window trim for a 1950 Dodge Wayfarer sedan - I believe they fit 49 to 52. They are in really nice shape, with original paint. I also have the inner windshield trim piece in similar condition. Also have a nice set of trunk hinges and springs in in very nice condition. Cleaning things out and want to see these go to someone who needs them. Free plus shipping, or pick them up. I live in central Illinois. I'm cleaning out parts fr om previous projects. Not a threat, but a sad fact of life, they go to the scrapper if I can't find a taker.

Very cool. I checked Restoration Specialties and their catalog says they have black painted board and the jute padding - they call it floor padding. What did you use to cut the board, the edges look very clean?

Good news. My original channels were attached by a different method that I can’t duplicate. Do you know the size of the screws you used? I assume they are flat-headed sheet metal screws.

I’m curious where you found the jute and the cowlboard. I have a sheet of Homosote left over from another project.

Are the channels thick enough that the screw heads bury deep enough into the felt to avoid interfering with the glass? Just getting ready to do this job on my 32 Dodge Brothers and this part of the operation has me concerned.

Yeah, I have two, one on each side. Same size, different hole patterns. It only took about half an hour to make two. Still have to drill the holes, but that won’t take much time. Thanks for looking!

Both of mine are the larger size, maybe 4-1/4 or 4-3/8 inches center to center screw holes. The Free-Wheeling cable in a big one and goes through the driver's side grommet along with the oil pressure gauge line, the water temperature gauge line and I think the large distributor wire that goes to the coil behind the dash panel.. I'm actually having an email discussion with Phil Kennedy, the PO, who owns a very original 32DL. here is how his car is laid out - with my graphic comments. Both distributor wires may go through there, I'm not sure at the moment.

I've got plenty of rubber left. I can make you up one if you need it. I'd just need to know hole sizes and spacing if there is enough left to tell. I think the 32s had a few more wires and cables (free-wheeling), but the cover looks the same.

As you can see, it looks pretty good inside the cover. All I need to do is drill the correct holes in the rubber. I was a bit worried the drill might catch and tear the rubber, but my forstner bit made a very clean hole with no problems.

Fiddly stuff today, but it needs to get done. Once I get my new firewall pad back I can run all the wiring, the choke cable, the throttle cable, the speedometer cable, oil pressure line and the temperature gauge line through the firewall and install and wire up the dash insert. I had my temperature guage and the sending unit and the fuel sending unit and gauge restored by Bob's Speedometer, so they are back and ready to go. All the wires and tubes run through a rubber grommet in the firewall. This is from Phil Kennedy's car. My grommet was toast - hard as a rock and coming apart - although that slit is supposed to be there. I can't find any repo rubber for this part so I made my own. I bought a 1/2 inch thick rubber pad off Ebay. After a disastrous attempt to cut the rubber to shape with an angle grinder and a cut-off wheel - that totally melted the rubber and left my garage smelling like a family of skunks had unloaded - I discovered the rubber cut very nicely with a utility knife lubricated with soapy water. So I cut it to the correct shape and tried to figure out how to get it to the correct angles on the sides. Sanding by hand would have taken a week, and my table-top disk sander gleefully melted the rubber again, even at slow speed. I finally discovered my bench grinder with a rough stone wheel would take the rubber off fairly cleanly without turning it liquid. It came out pretty well and was a perfect fit. A little uneven around the edges, but that's hidden by the outer cover.

Since I need to get my dash wired, I finally got around to addressing the problem of my firewall pad. This is very visible in my car and the original is in really bad shape and has also separated. The black surface faces inside and is visible. There are also many unnecessary holes drilled in the firewall, so I will have to determine which holes should be punched in the new pad. I found a company called Quiet Ride Solutions that will make me a new pad. They didn't have a pattern for a 32DL, but I told them I had the original pad and they offered to make me a new pad based on my old one and only charge me half price since I was supplying them with a pattern for this model. At this point I know I should have filled the excess holes in the firewall, but I'm just going to install rubber plugs and call it a day since I would like to drive Daphne before I die.

The Ford pins look similar, but they don’t seem to have the same split attachment method. If I can’t find anything else, I’ll buy some and see if I can make them work. Thanks for the tip.

Four short and two long.

Does anyone have any extra firewall pins? There are some missing on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan. I'm actually amazed there were ANY left at this point. i need two sizes - one is 1-3/8" long and the shorter pin is 7/8". Head diameter on both is 5/8". I'm sure these were used on many Chrysler products. I tried the usual suspects, Restoration Supplies and Restoration Specialties. They have some pins that are close, but not the same. Thanks for any help.

Does anyone have any extra firewall pins? There are some missing on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan. I'm actually amazed there were ANY left at this point. i need two sizes - one is 1-3/8" long and the shorter pin is 7/8". Head diameter on both is 5/8". I'm sure these were used on many Chrysler products. I tried the usual suspects, Restoration Supplies and Restoration Specialties. They have some pins that are close, but not the same.

Yes.

It hasn't blown down yet, and it gets pretty windy here on the plains. Just ask Dorothy Gale.

We used Simpson Titen HD screw anchors. Meets and exceeds all codes and worked great. Makes it much easier to place anchors exactly where you want them.