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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Frank, those 32 Dodge Brothers fenders you sold me are now rechromed and mounted on my car. Thanks again.
  2. Ron, this is really coming along nicely. My only concern is the fenders. They seem awfully high compared to the period photos you’ve posted. The rear wheel also looks to be too far forward in relation to the fender. Not nitpicking as I do not have the talent or fabrication skills to take on a project like this. Do you expect the truck to settle down once the motor and drivetrain are installed?
  3. I think my car has a slightly different setup. The wires to the dash run up the firewall and through a single hole in the firewall. There are only a couple of wires in that part of the loom. Three wires run from the rear of the car (the fuel sending wire and the brake and stoplight wires) in a loom that runs along the inside of the frame on the drivers’s side. These wires come out from the frame ahead of the body and into the engine compartment, never touching or going through the firewall. So, in my case, I think I’m okay. I’ve had all the wiring in place for two or three years and I ju
  4. I've been trying to work on the car early mornings and evenings to avoid the mid-day heat. Summer has arrived here with a vengeance. Not all that easy as I got into the firewall pad today and ended up working well into the afternoon. The thermometer read 95 when I came in from the garage, but I got a lot accomplished today. I was lucky that my original firewall pad survived relatively intact, so I had a good pattern to work with. it's not very pretty, and I taped over the unnecessary holes, but there was enough left to make a pattern. The solid section, about 1/2 inch thick, is still glue
  5. I picked up my window roller blanks from the water-jet cutter. The best ten bucks I've spent in a long time. He made me twenty - I only need three, so plenty to practice on. Looks like a little heat to bend them around a steel rod and chamfering of the holes and I'll be ready to go.
  6. My Restoration Supply order will be delivered tomorrow. Now I can finally get the firewall pad done and finish wiring the car. Another bit of good news - I located a water-jet cutting facility less than thirty miles form my home. Considering i live in the middle of nowhere, this was an amazing find - especially when I talked to the owner and he said he did small jobs. So, today I drove over and showed him the window rollers I had discussed in an earlier post. Here's a shot of them in Phil Kennedy's 32DL. And what they look like laid flat.
  7. I found this at Metro Rubber and it looks perfect for what I need. The gap between the window and the body is a little less than 3/8th of an inch, so this should fit the bill.
  8. Question. I'm in the process of installing the windows and have come across a problem. The lower area between the window glass and the body is open maybe a 1/8th of an inch. Any water that gets on the glass will run down the window and into the door with nothing to stop it. When I took the car apart there was nothing there, but I assume a strip should be installed in there to prevent water from getting in. Restoration Supply has what they call Belt Weatherstrip which appears to be what I'm looking for, but I can see no way of installing it short of gluing it in place. They also have not
  9. Very nice. Not nitpicking, but doesn’t the top, semi-circular decal go in the top of the filter? The color really sets the motor off.
  10. Maybe it’s the angle, but isn’t this a coupe?
  11. What restoration has been done to the car at this point? Any shots of the engine and interior? How long has the car been sitting in it’s present state?
  12. I made a large commitment yesterday and bought a ton of stuff from Restoration Specialties and Supply. Supposedly arriving Friday are new smooth grain top material, top padding, firewall panel board, door panel board, jute underpayment, and an assortment of rubber grommets. I’m also getting new door glass for the driver and passenger front side windows which were cracked. So now I can get my firewall pad finished and finally install my restored dash gauge cluster and all three cables (throttle, choke and free-wheeling) and get the under dash wiring hooked up. I have also cleaned and painte
  13. Does your frame have that missing section in the cross-member, keiser31? It doesn't look right.
  14. The exhaust should continue back and loop over the rear axle and then extend under the gas tank to the rear of the car. Not sure what is going on with your frame. My 32 DL is different, so I'll let the more knowledgeable members chime in on that. If it does need repair, it needs to have metal welded in by someone who knows what they are doing, and using the proper gauge of steel.
  15. Wow, that is a beast! I can't help, but I'm sure some of the Stutz and fire truck guys will chime in once they see this post.
  16. I know it goes against common practice, but the way I have them installed is correct. Here are two shots of the frame before restoration. As you can see, the lines run exactly as I have replaced them. Sorry, they are a bit hard to see through all the rust and grime. They run along the outside of the frame and then are routed inside the frame at the front and rear. I think this was done due to the X-frame layout of the frame. In the last picture you can see the car partially assembled. The metal pieces (the running board shields) above the running boards completely cover the lines and off
  17. I really like using nickel-copper tubing for brake lines. It looks like the original copper, flairs and bends easily and is very strong and corrosion resistant. I had some unusually complicated bends on my 32 Dodge Brothers and it really did the trick.
  18. This is the brake flaring tool from Eastwood. It comes with dies from all the standard sized tubing and makes perfect double flares with ease. The nickel-copper lines look great and are easy to work with. These are the type of clips used to hold the lines on the frame on my car. The clips above hold the headlight wiring. Be sure you use grommets in all areas where the lines pass through the frame to prevent chafing and rubbing through the line.
  19. Although Gunsmoke did a great job using steel lines, I strongly suggest using nickel-copper lines instead. They are not to be confused with copper lines which can become brittle and work hardened and should not be used as brake lines. The nickel-copper (sometimes called Cunifer which I believe is a brand name) has been used on high end cars for years. It is very easy to flare and bend, yet is extremely strong and corrosion resistant. It also has a pleasing coppery color that closely resembles the original copper lines. I used it on my 32 Dodge Brothers in conjunction with an Eastwood fla
  20. This part of the restoration is about as interesting as watching paint dry - which is about all I did this morning. I'm getting ready to put the windows back in and the exciting job of cleaning up the metal glass channels fell to me. They were actually in pretty good shape, just some surface rust that came off with a wire brush and a little elbow grease. A close shot of the channel. Still some factory black paint left on the surface. About halfway through. The channel is cleaning up nicely. notice the Syracuse decal applied by PO Phil Kennedy back in t
  21. My sending unit gears were brass. Even after I cleaned them up, the arm would not move. I finally gave up and sent mine to Bob’s Speedometer. Got it working and with a new float. I may have been able to figure it out, but I was afraid I’d ruin it.
  22. Hard to say until you actually see it in person. I think the biggest problem is the difference in color and texture on various parts of the car. The doors and lower fenders look like they might even polish up a bit, but the crusty stuff on the hood is a problem. I guess you’ll have to decide what you can live with. She was just down the road from me in Illinois and I’m sorry to see her go, but I’m glad she found a new home. Enjoy!
  23. Does anyone have a source for felt seals that can be bought individually? Looking for a seal that fits the driveshaft on a 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Everyone I can find on the net is either a manufacturer or a company in China. I found a few that are the wrong size, but the seller didn't seem to offer other choices. it seems they still make them, but I can't find where to buy them. Any help appreciated.
  24. You’ll be fine. Chrysler products were famous for lots of headroom - corporate heads demanded that the driver had enough room to wear a hat while in the driver’s seat.
  25. Don’t worry, the transmission still weeps a bit of oil and I’m just going to live with it. And thanks for your kind comments. I hope my trials and tribulations have helped you and others with their cars. Lord knows folks on this forum have helped me immensely.
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