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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I admit the electrical end of auto restoration is my weakness. So, possibly a dumb question, but when first starting a motor, will you damage the generator if you run the motor without hooking up the generator to the wiring harness. I just want to make sure the motor runs properly and the water pump works before I start hooking everything up under the dash. 1932 Dodge Brothers DL.
  2. I wasn’t knocking what LeBaron Bonney told me, I have no doubt they can’t get the cloth I need at the moment. I’m going to check in with my buddy Phil Kennedy and see if he can tell what’s on his all original front seat. After this discussion, I don’t think it’s hidem. Probably wire-on or double welt.
  3. Do you have any idea of the general area where the leaks, are coming from? Did you actually start the motor, or just fill it with oil and wait until the next day, when you discovered the leaks? If you never started the motor, the leaks have to be coming from somewhere below the top of the oil pan, perhaps, as FlatTop suggests, from pinholes in the pan. What make and year of car are we talking about? In my experience, slathering on sealant, rather than finding the source or cause of a leak, is the wrong way to go.
  4. That’s an optical illusion because you're Looking down on the cord from an angle. It’s consistently the same size on both sides. Now that I look at the photos, it does look like double welt cord more than hidem.
  5. Spinnyhill, here are some shots of my friend Phil Kennedy's original 32DL front seat. You can see the hidem running along the top edge of the seat all the way down to the floor. The last shot probably shows it the best. You can separate the two sides and see tacks below.
  6. I sure would like to see a side shot of this vehicle. It has a back seat and more area behind the rear seat. It looks great from the front, and my grandkids would love that extra seat, but I wonder if it looks a bit ungainly from the side. Then again, it may look terrific.
  7. They used hidem on the top of the front seat to hide the area where the back seat cushion is tacked to the seat frame. And thanks everyone for the leads, but these are all vinyl hidem, which is very easy to find. I’m looking for hidem made with wool broadcloth that would match (come close) to my medium brown interior.
  8. This is located in Central Illinois in the town of Matoon. The plate seems to be missing, we couldn’t find it, in any case.
  9. My upholstery guy can do it, but the post I saw had hidem that matched the door welting I have for the car.
  10. The post with lots of hidem designs, some barely automotive, is what I’m looking for.
  11. This also no longer works - at least on my computers.
  12. Leif, that’s what I always used. Now it doesn’t work, as you pointed out.
  13. Thanks, but their hidem is all vinyl, not cloth, as far as I can tell.
  14. I hate it when I do something stupid like this. A few months ago someone posted a website that sold fabric hidem welting. This was somewhere on a topic I can’t for the life of me remember. It listed different fabric options in various length rolls. I had the web site saved, but, as usual, it disappeared and is lost in the ozone. I’ve tried the search, tried to find/remember the original topic, all with no luck. LeBarron-Bonney is out of dark brown hidem and have no idea when they will have it again - the usual “we have to have the mill run a new batch of material” excuse. If anyone can remember the post I’m talking about, or, if you posted it, please help me out here. Thanks!
  15. No “oldest first” came up for me.
  16. Here are several articles you may find interesting. Note the disappointment mentioned when the T5 conversion did not produce the results expected. I also see you've been on the P-15 D-24 site for help so you may have already read these. http://p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/91-solving-the-modern-overdrive-with-a-floor-shift-using-mopar-parts/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/23955-t5-project/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/47606-overdrive-transmissions/?tab=comments#comment-505321
  17. Not sure if the 33 is the same as a 32, but I'm sure they're similar. Here is a diagram of how the system works - The front mount is two pieces of steel with a vulcanized rubber center (right red circle.) The mount sits up high on a stamped steel support bolted to the frame. The center rubber mount (the rectangular object) is a simple block of rubber vulcanized to a steel plate that bolts onto the cross-member (visible under it.) This cross-member is removable and has to come off to remove the oil pan. The bellhousing simply rests on the block and is not attached to it. The rear mount (left red circle) bolts to the transmission through the four holes up top, and to a removable cross support with nuts and bolts through the bottom two holes. If the rubber mounts have deteriorated, you may have transmission problems if the motor is flopping all over the place. Note the end of a spring, just visible behind the center rubber block. This attaches between the bell-housing and the frame and keeps the motor from torquing too far on the rubber mounts. The front mount before and after: The center pad before and after: And the rear mount before and after: I hope this makes things a bit clearer.
  18. This seems like a pretty easy repair to make. I have an almost exact duplicate of your trunk. I'd remove the trim and work out the dent with a dolly and hammer. You have access to the rear of the panel, so the work should be pretty basic. I know my trunk had a wooden floor, and if your trunk is the same, you can remove the floor to gain even more access. Some careful work on the metal trim from the back should straighten it out without too much trouble. It's a bit of a tedious job, but about as basic a repair that you can do in your garage. When it's done, you can polish the trim and paint the trunk and you're all set. If you want to job it out, you may have a bit of a problem finding a shop that will take on a small job like this. Still, I think you'd have better luck in Southern California than in my neck of the woods- central Illinois. This is my trunk. looks like my trim is a bit wider and the locks are in a different position, but it's the same general setup. I still have to get rid of the pin striping.
  19. Thanks to both replies. Yeah, I finally got it working by individually checking each desired year, but what a pain in the neck compared to two keystrokes as before.
  20. What the heck happened to eBay Motors? I used to go to Collector Cars and Pre 1939 and my search came right up. Now, no matter what I do, I get nothing but modern cars listed. Very frustrating.
  21. The joy of having an old, mostly original car is the experience of driving and working on them. A 360 Mopar V8 for two hundred bucks may have more (and more expensive) problems than the motor you currently have. And as I keep saying - add up the cost of the apparently used parts you’re going to have buy and the time it will take to modify the car. You won’t be spending time at car shows or weddings in the near future. And are these used parts really going to be any more reliable than what you already have? Still, show me the results, I really want to see how you pull this off. Buy the way, If you drop a V8 in you will need a stronger rear end, updated brakes, stronger front springs, and steering, and new wheels and tires to be safe. Plan on fabbing a new brake and clutch pedal assembly, finding a rebuilt or new clutch and pressure plate that will fit the V8/T5. Maybe you have the skills and money to do all this, but if it’s for 100 percent reliability, don’t count on it. My hot rod friends have as much or more problems with their cars that I do with my all original buggy.
  22. Any reputable clutch shop can re-line your clutch disk and rebuild your pressure plate. It’s a common layout. Does your bellhousing float, or does it have ears that attach it to your frame with rubber mounts? Looking at T5s, there are many different configurations, but the main problem is the location of the shifter. It’s pretty far back and may end up in the middle of your seat. Also, the length of the unit may interfere with your X-frame member. You can have your transmission rebuilt for about the same cost as a T5, or you can do it yourself (like I did) for around a hundred bucks. I just can’t see chopping up a great original car when you can restore the original parts with the same amount of labor. It’s your car and your choice, but I wish I had a dollar for everyone of these “I can make it better” projects that end up languishing in the garage in pieces until the heirs have to sell it. You seem determined to make the modifications, so please keep us informed on the progress if you do. I’ll be fascinated as to how you work out the problems and perform the modifications. And I’m not being sarcastic - I really want to see how you do it and the amount of time it takes.