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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. No problem. Just checked the classified ads in the Dodge Brothers Club Magazine and found two 1924 Dodge Brothers touring cars, one at 14 grand, the other at ten grand. Both looked to be in good shape. And as you said, you might get lucky - it can’t hurt to try.
  2. Hard to tell without seeing the interior. If it’s nice, maybe eight to ten on the coast. Five to eight in the middle of the country - we’re cheap and have to consider shipping costs. You’ll have to find the right buyer, these hit forty-five with a tailwind and are more around the town, get ice cream and parade cars. Prewar cars seem to have taken a hit lately, especially run of the mill twenties models - and it’s not an open car. Don’t get me wrong, I’m in the Dodge Brothers Club and love the car, but I have to be realistic. I hope you’ll find someone to love it.
  3. If you haven't seen the work of artist Robert LaDuke, look him up. A Google search will bring up dozens of his paintings. The guy is a master at evoking thirties and forties art with cars, trucks, trains and planes as the subject matter. I, personally, can't get enough of his stuff. Just a few of his paintings.. .
  4. You pretty much have to remove the headliner and the panel between the driver’s side door on a 32. I suspect the 33 is the same.
  5. A bit of nostalgia gone forever. Previous owner Phil Kennedy put these Syracuse decals on after he bought Daphne from me. They've been on the car over fifty years and I agonized over leaving them on or... I finally decided to take them off as they are not period correct. After I did it, I felt like a criminal that had vandalized an ancient relic. Sorry Syracuse and Phil.
  6. There you go - you learn something every day. I had no clue.
  7. Anything with a cotter pin should have a castellated nut - unless the nuts were replaced by the previous owner. The only other thing with cotter pins would be any pivot pins you have. Without a cotter pin, the pivot pins would just fall out, so you probably already know their location.
  8. In theory it seems like that would work. I found the cork to be easy to work with and the perfect size. Since it was what was originally used, I went with it. My only reservation would be that the slot for the cork is square with right angle sides. I’d be afraid that the rubber o ring might slip out of the slot given that it’s round and the slot is square.
  9. Yes, that's a shot of my u-joint. I took mine apart, and I'm glad I did as one of my bearings was shot. You have to pry the spring off and pop it back. I obviously had to remove the zerk fitting to get mine off. The the dome will slide off. I was lucky, the bad bearing was in the front u-joint and I had a spare on another transmission. The rear u-joint is attached to the driveshaft (welded on) and I'm not sure how you would handle that. On the rear u-joint you have to slide the spring and the dome all the way down the driveshaft to get hem completely off. The second larger dome is held
  10. I tried everything under the sun and never got this area totally leak free. Several pages on my Daphne restoration thread dealing with this problem and the frustration involved. Now it seeps slightly, but once I’m driving around - who knows? Aside from machining groves in the case to take o-rings, I couldn’t figure any other way to stop leaks. I took my tranny out three times trying to fix it.
  11. They work great for gaskets. I posted the process on my restoration thread. The only problem you might have with cork is getting it off the sticky pad without damaging it.
  12. The shock rebuild starts on page 14 and finishes on page 15. Sometimes, depending on the way you have your settings, your page numbers may not match up with mine. Just in case, the posts were posted starting on January 24, 2015, so you can check the date posted to find them. Let me know if you need any other information. The rear shocks a slightly larger, but come apart and go together in exactly the same way as the fronts.
  13. I’ll find the page numbers for you tomorrow - too full of turkey to move tonight.
  14. Just a quick hint - if you need to put the windows back in your car, be sure to do it before you reach the age of 60. I waited until I was 74 and am paying the price. Aside from the fact that I cannot bend over more than 5 degrees after a day in the garage, everything is going fine. Getting the window lever into the slots in the glass channel is one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever attempted - especially the front windows. I would have loved to meet the guy at the factory that did this job and ask him how the heck he accomplished it on a moving assembly line.
  15. Not sure if my 32 Dodge Brothers has the same setup, but mine has two rollers on the crank mechanism that slide onto a channel along the bottom of the window. There are two open slots in the channel that have to be lined up with the roller before they can be pulled free. As I remember - it’s been five years - they were a real pain to get off. I’m about to put mine back on and I’m not looking forward to it!
  16. I'm also putting in the door latch activators and the window cranks inside the doors. You have to install both before you put the glass back in. It's a bit tricky fishing them through the holes in the doors, but I managed to get them in place without much of a problem. Window crank in place. Door latch mechanism installed. I have two good door latch mechanisms - both on the drivers side, and two that need to be rebuilt. This is the driver front door mechanism. It obviously still needs cleanin
  17. Installing the window weatherstripping today. I have been trying to figure out a way to seal the opening between the outside of the window glass and the body. From all I can discover, there never was a seal/wiper in there. I didn't want to redesign the car, but I wanted a little protection from water and debris simply falling through the opening and landing in the bottom of the door. There are several holes in the bottom of the door that the factor apparently thought would solve the problem. My solution isn't perfect, but it will offer some protection - I hope. This is the rea
  18. What, exactly, is a skip - other than stepping from one foot to another with a bounce? Just another arrogant American questioning off shore parlance. 😀
  19. Putting the windows in. Amazing how much you forget after five years. Just fitting things up and going through the procedure in my mind and I discovered you have to put the door handle mechanism in before you install the window, The window channel passes through the door handle mechanism. Put the channel and window in first and there's no way to install the door mechanism. I'm glad I thought it through before I did my usual charge ahead with no forethought. I'd be out in the garage removing the freshly installed windows if I had. The window channels fit nicely. I have the rearmost pass
  20. auburnseeker, I do have a manifold. I can't believe I remembered I had it! It took some searching and just as I was about to give up, I found it on a top shelf in the garage. I sent you a PM with photos. I hope it's what you need. It either came off my 48 Plymouth or my 50 Dodge Wayfarer Sportabout - can't remember which.
  21. I got mine from Restoration Specialties and Supply Company. Page 113 in their catalog- they have a downloadable PFD catalog on their site. Look under top dressing. They had the padding when I purchased mine, but it’s now listed as out of stock. The wood you’re going to have to make yourself or find a local woodworker to do it for you. I hope there is enough original wood left for patterns. At least it’s a coupe - much easier than a sedan.
  22. Do you need just the fabric and padding, or the top wood also?
  23. Take off the hood, then remove the front fenders and grill as a unit. Then you have access to the motor with no problems. It’s how I did my 48 Plymouth and it made things easy.
  24. I agree with Fossil, my similar 32 Dodge Brothers has lots of room and an adjustable seat. I’m 6’2’’ and fit fine. I’d rather not discuss my weight, thank you.
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