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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Well my shipment from Restoration Specalties has been delayed due to “civil unrest.” What next?
  2. I found this at Metro Rubber and it looks perfect for what I need. The gap between the window and the body is a little less than 3/8th of an inch, so this should fit the bill.
  3. Question. I'm in the process of installing the windows and have come across a problem. The lower area between the window glass and the body is open maybe a 1/8th of an inch. Any water that gets on the glass will run down the window and into the door with nothing to stop it. When I took the car apart there was nothing there, but I assume a strip should be installed in there to prevent water from getting in. Restoration Supply has what they call Belt Weatherstrip which appears to be what I'm looking for, but I can see no way of installing it short of gluing it in place. They also have nothing specific for 1932, only going back to 1935. The back door windows have two rivets just hanging there that appear to have mounted something, but there is no sign of any mounting on the front window or the small back windows. i want to keep Daphne looking authentic, but also want to keep water from getting inside my doors. Has anyone solved this problem or can someone give me a clue as to what is installed in their cars?
  4. Very nice. Not nitpicking, but doesn’t the top, semi-circular decal go in the top of the filter? The color really sets the motor off.
  5. Maybe it’s the angle, but isn’t this a coupe?
  6. What restoration has been done to the car at this point? Any shots of the engine and interior? How long has the car been sitting in it’s present state?
  7. I made a large commitment yesterday and bought a ton of stuff from Restoration Specialties and Supply. Supposedly arriving Friday are new smooth grain top material, top padding, firewall panel board, door panel board, jute underpayment, and an assortment of rubber grommets. I’m also getting new door glass for the driver and passenger front side windows which were cracked. So now I can get my firewall pad finished and finally install my restored dash gauge cluster and all three cables (throttle, choke and free-wheeling) and get the under dash wiring hooked up. I have also cleaned and painted the window channels and hope to get all the side windows in this week. My outer door handles have been back from Paul’s Chrome for a bit and they will go on once the windows are in. June should be an interesting month.
  8. Does your frame have that missing section in the cross-member, keiser31? It doesn't look right.
  9. The exhaust should continue back and loop over the rear axle and then extend under the gas tank to the rear of the car. Not sure what is going on with your frame. My 32 DL is different, so I'll let the more knowledgeable members chime in on that. If it does need repair, it needs to have metal welded in by someone who knows what they are doing, and using the proper gauge of steel.
  10. Wow, that is a beast! I can't help, but I'm sure some of the Stutz and fire truck guys will chime in once they see this post.
  11. I know it goes against common practice, but the way I have them installed is correct. Here are two shots of the frame before restoration. As you can see, the lines run exactly as I have replaced them. Sorry, they are a bit hard to see through all the rust and grime. They run along the outside of the frame and then are routed inside the frame at the front and rear. I think this was done due to the X-frame layout of the frame. In the last picture you can see the car partially assembled. The metal pieces (the running board shields) above the running boards completely cover the lines and offer good protection. When I took the car apart, I was as surprised as you were to see where they were located.
  12. I really like using nickel-copper tubing for brake lines. It looks like the original copper, flairs and bends easily and is very strong and corrosion resistant. I had some unusually complicated bends on my 32 Dodge Brothers and it really did the trick.
  13. This is the brake flaring tool from Eastwood. It comes with dies from all the standard sized tubing and makes perfect double flares with ease. The nickel-copper lines look great and are easy to work with. These are the type of clips used to hold the lines on the frame on my car. The clips above hold the headlight wiring. Be sure you use grommets in all areas where the lines pass through the frame to prevent chafing and rubbing through the line.
  14. Although Gunsmoke did a great job using steel lines, I strongly suggest using nickel-copper lines instead. They are not to be confused with copper lines which can become brittle and work hardened and should not be used as brake lines. The nickel-copper (sometimes called Cunifer which I believe is a brand name) has been used on high end cars for years. It is very easy to flare and bend, yet is extremely strong and corrosion resistant. It also has a pleasing coppery color that closely resembles the original copper lines. I used it on my 32 Dodge Brothers in conjunction with an Eastwood flaring tool with great results. I can’t recommend nickel-copper tubing and the Eastwood tool enough. I’ll post some pictures tomorrow.
  15. This part of the restoration is about as interesting as watching paint dry - which is about all I did this morning. I'm getting ready to put the windows back in and the exciting job of cleaning up the metal glass channels fell to me. They were actually in pretty good shape, just some surface rust that came off with a wire brush and a little elbow grease. A close shot of the channel. Still some factory black paint left on the surface. About halfway through. The channel is cleaning up nicely. notice the Syracuse decal applied by PO Phil Kennedy back in the sixties. Fresh coat of black paint and they are ready to install. Pretty hard to get a decent picture of this - clear glass and black paint. The winding mechanisms are in really good shape. They just need a bit of cleaning. What would you use as light lubrication for these? White lithium grease?
  16. My sending unit gears were brass. Even after I cleaned them up, the arm would not move. I finally gave up and sent mine to Bob’s Speedometer. Got it working and with a new float. I may have been able to figure it out, but I was afraid I’d ruin it.
  17. Hard to say until you actually see it in person. I think the biggest problem is the difference in color and texture on various parts of the car. The doors and lower fenders look like they might even polish up a bit, but the crusty stuff on the hood is a problem. I guess you’ll have to decide what you can live with. She was just down the road from me in Illinois and I’m sorry to see her go, but I’m glad she found a new home. Enjoy!
  18. Does anyone have a source for felt seals that can be bought individually? Looking for a seal that fits the driveshaft on a 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Everyone I can find on the net is either a manufacturer or a company in China. I found a few that are the wrong size, but the seller didn't seem to offer other choices. it seems they still make them, but I can't find where to buy them. Any help appreciated.
  19. You’ll be fine. Chrysler products were famous for lots of headroom - corporate heads demanded that the driver had enough room to wear a hat while in the driver’s seat.
  20. Don’t worry, the transmission still weeps a bit of oil and I’m just going to live with it. And thanks for your kind comments. I hope my trials and tribulations have helped you and others with their cars. Lord knows folks on this forum have helped me immensely.
  21. Thanks! My 32 Dodge Brothers uses three cables with steel-wrapped cable housings for Throttle, Choke and Free Wheeling. This is just what I was looking for. And you didn’t write a novel, your explanation was clear and concise.
  22. Where did you find the specialized paint for the cables? Is it MG exclusive or designed for general use?
  23. I'm turning 74 in a few weeks. I feel your pain! I find I can get down okay, it's getting up that's the real difficulty. A knee replacement at the first of the year didn't help anything when it comes to this type of work.
  24. And I’m sure you’re correct, I was ready to buy a can as soon as I saw your post. Why it’s four times as much here makes no sense. Thanks for the suggestion, though, I wasn’t brushing you off, I’m just too broke to try it! 😀
  25. I liked the sound of the spray on Hylomar until I saw the price - sixty bucks for an aerosol can. I bought some Permatex Aviation Sealer for four bucks. The Hylomar overspray would have cost me that.