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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Thanks! My 32 Dodge Brothers uses three cables with steel-wrapped cable housings for Throttle, Choke and Free Wheeling. This is just what I was looking for. And you didn’t write a novel, your explanation was clear and concise.
  2. Where did you find the specialized paint for the cables? Is it MG exclusive or designed for general use?
  3. I'm turning 74 in a few weeks. I feel your pain! I find I can get down okay, it's getting up that's the real difficulty. A knee replacement at the first of the year didn't help anything when it comes to this type of work.
  4. And I’m sure you’re correct, I was ready to buy a can as soon as I saw your post. Why it’s four times as much here makes no sense. Thanks for the suggestion, though, I wasn’t brushing you off, I’m just too broke to try it! 😀
  5. I liked the sound of the spray on Hylomar until I saw the price - sixty bucks for an aerosol can. I bought some Permatex Aviation Sealer for four bucks. The Hylomar overspray would have cost me that.
  6. That was my thought, but if I have to take this u-joint off one more time I may run screaming down the street in frustration.
  7. Taking a poll. I’m ready to put the gaskets on the u-joints and put the drivetrain together. The gaskets are 3/64 of an inch thick and rather soft and crushable. They are there to contain the grease in the u-joint, which is thick, but can weep fairly thin liquid if left standing for a period of time. Do I need to apply gasket cement to the gaskets, or do I just put them on dry? The cement always seems to make a total mess no matter how carefully I try to apply it, but safety is probably the best policy. What do you think?
  8. Sometimes you get lucky, but what happened today was downright ridiculous. I went to the local parts store, where we are still welcome as long as we wear a mask, and bought some gasket material. I couldn't find anything that was quite as thin as I wanted, so I settled for something a little thicker - 3/64th of an inch. More about that later. Well, the sun was out and I've been inside for the last two weeks, so I decided to take a short ride out in the country and get some fresh air. We live in a tiny town in Central Illinois, so it takes about four minutes to get into the woods and cornfi
  9. I’m sure Bob’s stands by their work. I did the boiling water test when they first sent it back and it was dead on. Thanks, it’s a good tip and an easy way to test the gauge.
  10. Another example of the gaskets I cut with the C and C machine. This one was for the speedometer. My Rube Goldberg coil holder turned out great. It fits in the clamp behind the dash where the original coil was located. I drilled a hole for the wires to the ignition switch and slotted the sides for the clamp to hold the coil in. All the dash wiring is ready to go. As soon as I get firewall pad I can install the instrument cluster, the choke, throttle and Free Wheeling cables, the coil and the ignition switch and I'll be ready to
  11. Finally got around to finishing up the instrument cluster. Bob's Speedometer rebuilt the water gauge, calibrated the fuel gauge and rebuilt the tank sending unit. Based on what was left of the old gaskets, I used my previously mentioned method to cut new ones. I can't stress how accurately these things are cut, especially the round holes for the screws/bolts. They fit like a glove (unless you're O.J. Simpson). Everything went together very easily and now it's ready to install in the dash. Th
  12. Make sure you have your brake shoes adjusted in as far as possible so they don’t hang up the drum. Put the puller on - with the axel nut loosely on, as gossip suggested - and pound the arm ends with a sledge hammer. Let it sit there for an hour or so, then bang on it again. Keep it on and continue, letting it sit in between. I had to leave mine on overnight. As I was working on something else in the garage, I heard what I thought was a gunshot. It was the brake drum letting go. It’s going to take patience, but it will finally let loose.
  13. I've complained about this before, but I have the distinct impression that the Chrysler engineer who designed the Floating Power transmission mounting setup ended up on the breadline once the DL models went into production. I had the unfortunate experience of removing the front U-joint this morning (for at least the fifth or sixth time) and it doesn't get any easier. As I said above, I neglected to put gaskets on the surface between the U-joint and the parking brake drum. The problem is the way the bolts that hold it on are positioned. As you can see in this shot of the entire d
  14. I was putting my driveshaft back in today and noticed some seepage around the edge of the front U-joint. I realized I hadn't put the gasket back in when I installed the u-joint. I also realized I don't have any gaskets - so I scanned the bottom plate of an extra u-joint base and made new gasket technical drawings that I can cut out using the method I described in an earlier post using the Cricut C and C machine. Here is the artwork. The bar at the top is exactly 5 inches so I can scale the drawing correctly in the Cricut software. Again, the advantage of this method is the gasket is perfe
  15. Fossil did put a smiley emoji after his comments. It’s strictly an opinion, but I, too, have never cared for the distinctive lights on the fenders approach that Pierce Arrow so dearly loved. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
  16. It seemed to be the "in" thing in the seventies, as you said. Brown fenders and trim, tan body, red wheels. I'm not sure where it came form or who started it. When I was restoring my 29 Plymouth in the seventies, many were appalled that I was going to paint it in the original colors - black fenders, blue body. Lots of folks urged me to paint it brown and tan or maroon and red. My current project, a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan came form the factory black with pale yellow wire wheels. It's going back original, but my wife still wants to paint the body maroon. That was one of the original
  17. PM me your information and I'll send it to you.
  18. I’m not sure the switch cares, but I would think that the Ignition terminal takes the power feed coming in from the ammeter. Then the other two terminals are the wire to the negative terminal on the coil and the other to the fuel gauge. So, when the switch is turned on, you get power to both the coil and fuel gauge. Basically like your car with the external coil. I guess they gave up the one piece coil/ignition switch arrangement after 32.
  19. Well, with a little persuasion, the tube fit into the dash mount perfectly. I was surprised at how little stress there seemed to be with the coil inserted in the other end of the tube. it doesn't weigh as much as I thought or stick out as far as I thought it would. I may drill a few holes in the tube as kieser31 suggested, but I don't want to weaken the tube to the point it fails. Just how hot do coils get? There doesn't seem to be any cooling setup to dissipate the heat, and I've also seen hotrodders put them inside billet mounts that I suspect would also hold in heat, fins or not. I've
  20. I had the same concerns. The acrylic tube I got has a very high temperature rating. It's designed for high heat situations. I am a bit worried that it might hold in the heat from the coil and cause problems. Still have some concerns on that front.
  21. I've discussed this ignition switch before but I'm still not sure exactly how it works. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to wiring, so bear with me. The switch has two positions - on and off. You turn the key and there is no middle position, it just turns to the right and stops. On the back of the switch there are three terminals marked BAT, STA and IGN, which I assume are Battery, Starter and Ignition. When I turn the key on and test continuity, I get current flow between Ignition and Battery and between Ignition and Starter. I am assumin
  22. One of the irritating items that comes up when restoring early thirties Chrysler products is the use of the integral coil and ignition setup. Finding original coils for these cars is difficult, let alone finding one that works. They do make reproductions, but at several hundred bucks it was a little too much for my budget. I started talking about this several years ago on this thread, but I finally figured out a possible fix that is inexpensive and retains much of the original look - as long as you don't get too far under the dash! Most of the time, as on Daphne, when the original coil wen
  23. dpcdfan, I did not receive a PM under your name. Try again, Gary, I don't know what happened.
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