Taylormade

What, exactly, is a skip - other than stepping from one foot to another with a bounce? Just another arrogant American questioning off shore parlance. 😀

Putting the windows in. Amazing how much you forget after five years. Just fitting things up and going through the procedure in my mind and I discovered you have to put the door handle mechanism in before you install the window, The window channel passes through the door handle mechanism. Put the channel and window in first and there's no way to install the door mechanism. I'm glad I thought it through before I did my usual charge ahead with no forethought. I'd be out in the garage removing the freshly installed windows if I had. The window channels fit nicely. I have the rearmost passenger small sedan window installed, and that was easy as the mechanism is a plate that bolts in place. No fishing down inside the body to try and snap the end of the riser in place. I'll post some pictures tomorrow as I install the driver's side rear window. I also got a set of the window plates from knobless. They are very nicely made and fit perfectly. I'll post some pix when I get to that restoration.

auburnseeker, I do have a manifold. I can't believe I remembered I had it! It took some searching and just as I was about to give up, I found it on a top shelf in the garage. I sent you a PM with photos. I hope it's what you need. It either came off my 48 Plymouth or my 50 Dodge Wayfarer Sportabout - can't remember which.

I got mine from Restoration Specialties and Supply Company. Page 113 in their catalog- they have a downloadable PFD catalog on their site. Look under top dressing. They had the padding when I purchased mine, but it’s now listed as out of stock. The wood you’re going to have to make yourself or find a local woodworker to do it for you. I hope there is enough original wood left for patterns. At least it’s a coupe - much easier than a sedan.

I may have one. I’ll check tomorrow.

Do you need just the fabric and padding, or the top wood also?

Take off the hood, then remove the front fenders and grill as a unit. Then you have access to the motor with no problems. It’s how I did my 48 Plymouth and it made things easy.

I agree with Fossil, my similar 32 Dodge Brothers has lots of room and an adjustable seat. I’m 6’2’’ and fit fine. I’d rather not discuss my weight, thank you.

The car was rented for “Spider Baby” for $100 per day - more than the actors were paid. Chaney, as the nominal star, reportedly did the film for a flat $2500. It’s also the car in ‘Some Like It Hot” that pulls into the garage and unloads George Raft and his hoods before they machine gun the opposing gangster faction.

I’m very lucky to have a Dodge Brothers automobile. Our site is extremely active and has been since I joined in 2013. A majority of the posts seem to center on prewar models, and the similarities in parts and construction by the marque make most posts useful for many readers. I’m getting used to the new format, but much prefer the previous iteration.

Thanks everyone, forum member Knobless has them and I just ordered some. Thanks for the info.

Here’s a laugh. While trying to help JPB1933, I ended up taking a closer look at my door latch mechanisms. It turns out one of my springs is also missing. Three were fine, but my passenger side rear latch is minus the spring. So, I will soon have a documented explanation on how to replace the spring - or perhaps how not to.

Yes! Thank you.

I need some help. I remember seeing a post where someone on the site was offering reproductions of a metal part - a four tabbed plate that fits on the door latch mechanism on thirties Mopars. Here is the part I'm talking about. And the back side showing the four tabs. I've done numerous site searches and have come up with nothing. Anybody remember this?

I need some help. I remember seeing a post where someone on the site was offering reproductions of a metal part - a four tabbed plate that fits on the door latch mechanism on thirties Mopars. Here is the part I'm talking about. And the back side showing the four tabs. I've done numerous site searches and have come up with nothing. Anybody remember this?

I need some help. I remember seeing a post where someone on the site was offering reproductions of a metal part - a four tabbed plate that fits on the door latch mechanism on thirties Mopars. Here is the part I'm talking about. And the back side showing the four tabs. I've done numerous site searches and have come up with nothing. Anybody remember this?

The bracket may be slightly different, but I believe the spring is the same. It's purpose Is to return the handle back to position after you rotate it to open the door. The spring forces the handle back through pressure on the rotating plate (attached to the flat rod that connects to the outside door mechanism) and then snaps into the notch to hold it in place. Since I don’t want to remove the spring for obvious reasons, the picture I sent is the best I can do. It appears to be very close to the one you purchased, if not an exact duplicate. Going by ply33’s advice, you need to take the plate off to replace the spring. Be very, very, careful - if you break off the tabs, you’re sunk. You, of course, are going to have to take the entire latch mechanism out of the door to accomplish this task.

The spring you purchased goes in this end of the assembly - as you just said the inside door handle. Here is the side that faces toward the outside. You can see the spring you are talking about, one end of which notches in the slot on the part that turns. To replace the spring, you may have to remove the plate above it. This is done by carefully bending the four tabs that hold it on to the larger plate. You can see them in this view from the other side. All my springs were good, so I have never changed one. I'll leave it to forum members who have to explain the process. You may not have to remove the cover - I'm not sure. I know someone on the forum was selling this cover, probably because the tabs get broken off when they are removed. I hope this helps.

Are the pics I posted like your mechanism? Are you talking about the outside door handle or the inner handle? As far as I (and ply33) know, what I posted should be the same as what you have. Have you removed the mechanism from your door, or is it still in there?

The rubber extrusions I bought from Metro Rubber to seal the space between the windows and the door frames are not going to work. They are too wide and not really flexible enough, and just bind when I try to roll the window up or down. Without anything there, water just runs down the window and into the inside of the door. Restoration Specialties sells what they call belt weatherstrips for this purpose, but they appear to be more of a whisker type material and I'm not sure they would seal out water. I'm also not sure how I would attach them. When I took the car apart, there was nothing there, but I can't believe that was the way it was originally. Back to the drawing board. On a good note, my brake pedal bushing is installed and ready to go. My machine shop guy had to make the bushing, but at least it's back to specs - despite the cost. he was more than fair in his pricing, but the extra work doubled the price. I'm still seeking some kind of fireproof material to line the bottom of my wood floorboards to prevent damage from the exhaust and muffler heat. I'm thinking material from a welding blanket might fill the bill. The original stuff must have been asbestos sheet, white, and about the thickness of cardboard, nailed to the boards. A few small pieces remain. I can't find anything similar, but if I cut up the blanket to the correct sizes and nail it to the boards, it should look about the same. Not sure if the edges will fray after cutting,, so my wife may have to seam them. Sorry to ramble on, one of those days when you stare at the car and try to figure out how to handle your various problems and hang-ups.

I know the original poster was a newbie. I wonder if the information above was what he was looking for?

Okay, let's see if this helps. Here is a complete latch assembly. All four are basically the same, the rear doors having a shorter arm and the passenger and driver sides being mirror images of each other. I assume this is the spring you are referring to. These are the three main pieces of the latch. Are these the pivot points you are talking about? If so, buy a bag of these from Hanson Rivet and Supply Company. They fit perfectly. You will have to increase the size of the hole in the plate slightly, to accommodate the rivet base, but it's no problem. I don't have a source for the spring as I received a load of extra latches from Ply33 some time ago and have some extra springs thanks to his generosity. Let me know if you need anything else.

I’ll post some pictures tomorrow. I believe I have a solution for the missing pivot pin if we are talking about the same thing.

Do you mean the latch mechanism? My 32 Dodge Brothers may be similar, but it uses a spiral spring not a leaf spring. I can post pictures if you think it would help.

I'm currently restoring a 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan which is very similar to this car, so I know what is involved in finishing the restoration. Is it your wish to have the car restored and then returned to the family, or for someone to buy the car and then restore it? If I didn't have my own project, I would give this some serious thought. Unfortunately, project cars of this type seem to be languishing in many garages around the country. The cost of the restoration would be far more than the car is worth, so it would have to be a labor of love as I'm sure it was with Bill. In my case, my car was the first car I ever owned - the actual car - so it has been a true labor of love for me. It's a sad fact that few people would take on the task and finish the car. I know what I have spent on paint, upholstery materials, parts, mechanical restoration, tires and many small parts and fasteners. Getting Bill's Chrysler up to snuff would be a major project, both in time and money. I did the work on my car myself and saved a few bucks, but I still had to spread things out over time to manage the cost. I've been working on it for five years and still have a way to go. I wish I had a simple answer to your dilemma, but I fear there isn't one. If you do find someone, feel free to have them contact me with any questions and I'll be more than happy to help. My car in its current state.