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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Correct, Spinnyhill. My marine plywood is not treated, it simply uses waterproof glue, but all the wood floors use anti-squeak fabric between the wood and the metal frame anyway, so no problem.
  2. The 32 Dodge Brothers sedan I’m restoring had plywood floors from the factory. I think the earlier cars used solid wood boards. I replaced mine - which were sadly rotted beyond repair and covered with an impossible to remove black tar undercoating - with high grade marine plywood.
  3. Use marine plywood, it’s laminated with waterproof glue and holds up much better than standard plywood.
  4. Is this for sale or are you just displaying a rather beat up taillight for our edification?
  5. I'm working on two art projects, #D models of an old Richfield gas station and a 1911 Flying Merkel board-track racer. Still a long way to go on both, but they are coming along. The Merkel motor was a real bear to model.
  6. Back on my feet, no pain, totally mobile, no crutches, cane or walker. I can finally get back to Daphne! The machine shop I mentioned earlier did a great job on the steering box and only charged me 25 bucks. The before picture shows the roached threads; not a pretty sight. The after shot looks a lot cleaner. not perfect, but a vast improvement. And you can't replace missing metal. They also cleaned up the housing threads. Now the two pieces screw together easily by hand. No binding or drag. Another problem solved.
  7. It would be a pain, but you might check the serial number against the 31 models listed in the current roster. It should be listed in the old roster.
  8. I assume there’s nothing in The Dodge Brothers roster. Nice looking car.
  9. Exactly the same as my 32 Dodge Brothers. The old lacing pretty much fell apart during deconstruction. I put the new lacing on the radiator shell with split rivets- it has to be done before inserting the radiator. The new lacing is flexible enough to peel back - as in ply33’s photo- and install the mounting bolts.
  10. My intake/exhaust studs looked fine - from the outside. I noticed one had bad threads, apparently cross-threaded - so I decided to replace it. When I got it out, I discovered about 3/4 of the inner threads had rusted away. I was shocked at how little of the hidden inner threads remained. And this stud was a bear to get out, despite the damage. Do not take it for granted that any studs that appear okay on the outside, but come into contact with the water jacket, are solid and in good shape.
  11. 51 years and going strong. My wife is an organizer. When the restoration of our 32 Dodge Brothers gets out of control - parts and tools scattered everywhere - she arrives in the nick of time and helps clean up the mess. She and our youngest granddaughter (13) worked the starter petal when we started the rebuilt motor for the first time last year. She’s not particularly interested in the actual restoration process, but loves to travel searching for parts or looking at cars. We rode motorcycles for 20 years and she rode her Harley 6800 miles on one trip we took to the wrst coast. She’s always been a trouper. I couldn’t ask for a better partner.
  12. They are closed over the weekend. I’ll try Monday morning and see what, if anything, I can do.
  13. The action house is close to me. I’d be glad to go and take a look if the car itself is close by. I’ll give them a call and get the details.
  14. If you want all the crud out of your block, get a pressure washer and blast out the block through the casting/freeze plug openings. I could not believe what came out of my 48 Plymouth block - two large pails of rust and debris.
  15. Lying in a hospital bed after having knee replacement surgery. Everything seems to have gone fairly well. Some pain, but not as bad as I was expecting. They say I should be home Thursday. I found a terrific machine shop, one those places full of mills, lathes and other machinery run by two guys with tons of experience who love old cars. After explaining my problem with my steering column, the first question was, “got it with you?” I showed it to them and said it was from a 32 Dodge Brothers. That was all I needed to say. Their eyes lit up, told me it would take a couple of days, and then proceeded to show me the 29 Ford pickup, 36 Ford pickup and the 55 VW convertible in the back room. They are going to turn the threads on a lathe and use a tap on the interior threads of the steering box. Hopefully, problem solved.
  16. The Ken-Tool would probably work, but it’s too small - the diameter of my unit is two inches at least. You may be right, Gunsmoke, but good machine shops are hard to find around here. McMaster-Carr has a correct sized thread chaser die for around 300 bucks.
  17. I’ve got one around somewhere - you know that story. But I can lay a common bolt in the threads and it matches perfectly, so it’s a common size.
  18. Sounds like a plan Spinneyhill. Once I figure out the pitch I’ll get the correct file. They seem to sell files for assorted pitches, but they all show different sizes. Since I can do this sitting down, it may be a good recovery project.
  19. I knew things were going to good to be true. My clean and paint steering box project just turned into a major problem. I noticed, when I took the box apart, the outer steering column was very hard to unscrew. I also noticed the dreaded marks of a pipe wrench that had been uses in the distant past to remove or replace said column. Today I started cleaning the column and discovered why it was so hard to get out - and why it probably will never go back in again. The threads are absolutely destroyed. I doubt if running a tap - provided I could afford or find one that large - would do much to help. There are whole chunks missing. Plus, check out the wrench marks on the threads - somebody went at this thing with abandon. Anybody got a spare steering column for a 32 Dodge Brothers out there? Or could a machine shop weld this up and re-thread it? It looks like the threads in the box itself are okay, which is a relief and a surprise.
  20. Thanks. I’m finally cleared for knee replacement surgery next Tuesday, but my wife has promised to haul in items from the garage so I can work on them at a table in the living room. Since almost all parts are restored and painted, I plan to assemble the head and cowl lights with new wiring, put the taillight back together and finish putting the dash and gauges together. Hopefully, I’ll be walking again when I’m finished with all that.
  21. Checking things out in the steering box and I think it looks okay. The bearings and races seem to be fine. The race up inside the housing looks to be fine - I don't know how I'd ever get it out of there if i had to replace it! I'm now pretty sure the worm gear did not move on the shaft. The key is integral to the worm and it looks like the gear is right up to where the keyway starts to rise up. The steering shaft does not come out of the bottom of the worm - it falls maybe a quarter of an inch short. If anyone has a disassembled unit that shows the position of the worm gear on the shaft I'd sure like to see a photo or some measurements. A little paint and I'll put it back together.
  22. Looking at some other posts on the Gemmer, I'm now not sure i did move the worm gear on the shaft after all. I guess all I can do it do a reassembly after everything is cleaned up and see if the top of the steering shaft lines up with the outer steering column. I can probably do it with out replacing the top bearing and race to make it easier.
  23. I finally got up the nerve to tackle the last mechanical part that needs restoring - the ever popular Gemmer steering box. It came apart fairly easily - the twp parts were really stuck together after eighty years, but I got them apart with the use of a makeshift puller I made up from a piece of hardwood and a couple of bolts. All that being said, I know next to nothing about these units so any help would be appreciated. The parts cleaned up pretty well thanks to my local auto repair shop graciously allowing me to use their hot solvent washer (one of the perks of living in a small town.) After a bit of wire brush work, the pieces cleaned up very well. The other half was still soaking in some solvent to get the last of the thick grease inside when I took these photos. To my eye, the worm gear looked pretty good. But, as I said, I'm certainly no expert. What do you guys think? As you may have noticed, the worm gear slipped down the steering shaft during removal. At the moment, I can't get it back up to where it belongs. I'm assuming it should be even with the keyway at both ends. I don't want to beat on it. Will I have to find someone with an hydraulic press to get it back into position? This is my biggest worry. There is obvious wear to the pinion gear (not sure of the correct term) where it meshes with the worm gear. I don't know what is acceptable in these cases, but there is certainly some damage. I don't plan to drive the car to California twice a year, so maybe this isn't as bad as I thought, but it was disappointing to see. I'll post some pictures of the bearings once I get them cleaned up. From what I understand, they are no longer available, so I hope they are still okay. This was the messiest, greasiest job on the entire car, by far.
  24. Remove the tube. If you leave the rusty, clogged up one in the block, you will not get proper cooling in the rear of the engine. They are a real pain to get out. Don’t be surprised if it tears in half when you’re pulling it out. The tube in my 48 Plymouth came out in four pieces. I spent two days of frustration digging in there, pulling out pieces and trying to get the hook on what was left. They used to sell copper replacements which don’t rust like the steel ones, but it’s been a few years since I underwent this particular torture. I used a slide hammer on my hook, which helped, but it also tore the tube to pieces when I got a bit overenthusiastic. Have fun!