Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I'm working on the wood floors of the body. It seems strange that they still used wood for the flooring in 1932, but it is what it is. I would have loved to use the original floors (there are four pieces) but I couldn't. The tops of the pieces is in pretty good shape, but at some point a previous owner had the bottom of the car sprayed with some sort of asphalt rustproofing and this stuff is impossible to get off. It clogs up any type of sandpaper I've tried to use, and heat is only going to set the wood on fire. Nice top surface... Crummy bottom... Plus the floorboard around the transmission area was badly degraded by years of water leaking through the cowl vents. You can see the delaminating plywood. I'm cutting the new floor pieces out of marine plywood, which uses waterproof glue and is designed to stand up against moisture and wet conditions.
  2. Powder coating has come a long way since the nineties. I agree with Spinneyhill, a good powder coat with a zinc undercoat is the way to go. My coater gave me a bag of my wheel color powder. You can mix it with clear epoxy for touch ups - although I haven’t had any chips yet.
  3. I strongly suggest you post this in the Buick Pre War section on this forum. Those guys have lots of good advice and extensive knowledge of these old Buicks. You’ll get quick answers to your questions.
  4. How is the wood in the body? That always seems to be the big stumbling block in restoring these old Buick’s. Looks like a nice car, glad you’re going to save it.
  5. Try down on the Buick Prewar site. You’ll probably get more responses.
  6. Taylormade

    Valve adjustment

    Yeah, as Spinneyhill says, it's no fun, especially getting in there past the fender, under the exhaust manifold and behind the carb. How noisy are the lifters? All engines make some noise, but a noticeable clicking means you need to adjust them.
  7. Taylormade

    Valve adjustment

    Have you ever adjusted the valves?
  8. You have two control levers, each one is attached to a tube that runs down inside the length of the steering column, one tube inside the other. These tubes extend out the bottom of the steering box and have linkage attached. Remove the linkage from the tubes and they will slide up and out of the center of the steering wheel. With tubes and levers out from the steering wheel, you can get to the back of the levers and remove the horn button.
  9. Yes, same with my 32, except I only have one lever for the lights.
  10. Was an attempt made to replace some of the wood in the body? I assume that the metal panels between the doors and behind the rear door are gone?
  11. Can you post a shot of your steering wheel? I’m not sure if it’s the same or similar to my 32DL. If it is, I can provide some pictures of how it’s done.
  12. It’s always interesting to hear the backstory on a particular car. Obviously, you determined the correct color was solid yellow. Most Gold Bugs I have seen have a yellow body with black fenders. I’m curious abouthow you came up with a solid color scheme. I liked the all yellow. I watched the Carini show on the Kissel and remember him telling the top guy he wanted to eliminate the oval windows because they were ‘cheap plastic.’ That begs the question, why not replace them with glass?
  13. A really attractive car. I’d love to help, but my limited expertise lies in restoring my 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan - a bit more primitive than your ride. Hopefully, some Airflow owners will chime in.
  14. If you can find an original owner’s manual, it will have pictures of the wheel assembly and the correct hub. The manuals are as close to a shop manual as you are going to find. Lot’s of detailed information.
  15. What would cause something like that? I wonder if there was already a small crack around a stud that let loose when you torqued it? If there was something between the head and the block, I would think the head would have gone first. Man, I really feel for you, that motor was looking great.
  16. I didn’t know that was what Chrysler used for a grease cap. My 32 Dodge Brothers has the typical rounded threaded cap. That looks more like and old wood wheel hubcap.
  17. I know they are in it to make money, but I remember them negotiating with the nice old lady owner and her son, and trying to beat them down. The son wanted 20 grand and Mike was having none of that. He went up to fifteen, the the mom said sixteen and he laughed and bought it. If they (or the production company) are actually selling it, they may make some money if they get their asking price - which I doubt. If this is a flip of a flip, I think the current owner will be underwater on the deal, big time. I also remember the Packard coupe, in rough shape, they bought for twenty grand, added new tires and got it running, (it smoked like a chimney) and only got twenty-one for it, actually losing money. Then there was Frank’s Plymouth coupe for which he paid about two grand more than it was worth. Since both guys get big salaries, and I’m sure the show pays sellers to participate, no one is really losing any money. I also love how they load all these valuable items in the back of their van after a pick. No padding, no protection, just shove them in and drive off with a wave. “Uh, Frank, I think our 2600 dollar, pristine porcelain sign just fell over onto the 37 Indian Chief frame. Looks like the sign is dented and scratched, and the frame is crushed.”
  18. This is from 2008, but it gives you a good idea of what is involved. Whether these folks are still selling the kit is anyone’s guess. Notice that along with the cost of the transmission, you will have to buy additional parts to adapt the throw-out bearing, a new driveshaft, and change the rear brakes to compensate for the loss of the transmission drum emergency brake and the emergency brake lever (which is attached to the old transmission.). Looks like you’ll be in for a grand or so, plus many hours of work. The use of an adapter plate to mate the 4/6-cyl S-10 5-speed (T5) transmission to the Mopar flathead engine requires that you use the transmission with the longest input shaft and a clutch disc with a reversed offset hub to assure proper spline to clutch hub engagement. The input shaft also requires a special crankshaft pilot bushing. Our kit includes a machined aluminum adapter plate w/flat head machine screws, a clutch disc with a reversed offset hub, a longer clutch pivot bolt and an Oilite crankshaft pilot bushing. The popular transmission is the S-10 because its design offers the forward mounted shift lever. Its location is about 11? back from the flathead clutch housing or the early floor shift location. And, the S-10 tail housing can be installed on all T5 boxes. The adapter plate is 5/8? aluminum, blanchard ground and CNC?d to accurately mate the T5 to the stock clutch housing. The clutch disc is a GM 9-1/4? disc with an offset spline. The hub has been reversed to get more of the S-10 input shaft into the disc. The pilot is a high-quality Oilite bronze bearing. You are to supply your own clutch throw-out bearing and sleeve (collar). The stock Mopar clutch throw-out bearing and sleeve can be used by honing out the sleeve to match the S-10 bearing retainer. Or, the retainer could be turned down to mate to the sleeve. An alternative would be to press a sleeve over the stock S-10 bearing retainer and machine to accept a 1994-2001 Cherokee throw-out bearing assembly. This will mate to the later stock clutch fork. Another alternative is to use a Ford bearing retainer, which will accept the 1994-2001 Cherokee throw-out bearing assembly. The mounting flange on the Ford retainer needs to be turned down slightly to match the S-10 for piloting into the adapter plate. Before starting this project it is recommended that you become familiar with the B-W T5 transmission. There are many sites that cover the history of this design and give good information on its flexibility, available gear ratios and applications. You should also confer with a T5 specialist such as Tom Langdon in Utica, MI (586-739-9601) when you are ready to buy. Buyer concerns: Transmission to chassis mounting Emergency brake relocation Driveshaft modifications Speedometer (mechanical available on pre ?87 S-10s) Shift lever position (approx 11? back from stock) Kit cost is $295.00; postage inside USA is $17.00. Check, M.O. or Paypal to pjplymouth@netscape.net Price good until 3/30/2008. Paul Curtis 19319 Candlelight Roseville, MI 48066 586-296-2488 Call Paul at the above number. He should be able to answer all your questions.
  19. I know when Don Coatney went through this on his later model 40s Plymouth, he had to have an adapter plate made and modify his bellhousing. The input shaft had to be modified and machined and he modified the throw-out bearing mount. I seem to recall something about the flywheel and pressure plate. Then he discovered the stick was too far back and interfered with the front seat. I remember his posts on the P-15 D-24 Forum. It was a long, involved process, beset with tough problems and complicated solutions. He finally got it finished, and was happy with the end result, but it’s something I wouldn’t want to tackle. At the very least, you’re going to have to have access to a very good and cooperative machine shop, or have the equipment and skill to do it yourself.
  20. I thought the Rolls was the one from American Pickers. As I remember, they paid sixteen grand for it on the show. Absolutely nothing has been done to it. Looks like a quick flip - from the pickers, or from the sucker who bought it from them?
  21. Where is Golbal warming when you need it?
  22. I used copper/nickel on my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan. It was easy to bend and flare, and matched the look of the original copper lines. I bought all new line fittings, but used the original Lockeed junctions and brass fittings on the wheel cylinders. I used silicon brake fluid, which has a tendency to leak more than standard fluid, but have never had any leaks from the lines or their fittings. I used double flares and did not anneal them. I’m not sure what annealing would do to the composite material in these lines - it’s not all copper. Personally, I wouldn’t anneal them and I feel the double flare gives a much better seal. All my fittings handled the double flare with absolutely no problems. I don’t know who made the brakes on your REO, but if they’re Lockeed you shouldn’t have any problems. Not trying to start a war here. I’m sure PFitz is giving you the straight dope and basing it on his experience. Go what ever direction you feel is correct.
  23. Which LEDs did you buy? This guy has a lot listed.
  24. Fonts were originally named for the type that typesetters designed for printing. Often the font was named for its creator. For a few centuries, there were only a few hundred different recognized fonts in existence as each font had to have patterns made and then be made into lead type face. There are thousands of fonts today, as artists can churn them out on a graphics program, name them anything they want and post them for sale. The letters on the hubcaps and the lettering on the sign are not some guy looking up a specific font and then copying it, they are unique creations designed and executed by a graphic artist or designer out of whole cloth. With the number of fonts available, you can probably find something close, but I have lots of experience with this and I always find that close is not close enough. I found a very similar font when I was doing the service sign, but the E wasn’t right, the R didn’t have the little tail, everything was just bit more rounded, and it just didn’t look the same. I always end up creating what I’m looking for with anything done decades ago. It’s like looking at a letter with my handwriting and then trying to find the font I used.
  25. While it’s true that complete alphabetic fonts have been designed and named over the years, we have to remember that the computer age has redefined the use of fonts. Just because you can plug in a myriad of professionally designed fonts into graphic programs and spit out the look you want, today, that didn’t and couldn’t happen back in the day. For printing, typeface In required fonts could be attained, but the actual design and rendering of the font style was done by graphic artists - by hand. Many artists slightly modified the font to match what their clients desired and what fit the piece they were designing. The two examples you provided on the hubcaps are actually two different fonts. They are similar, but notice that in the top example, the thickness of the letter’s parts remains constant. In the second example, the rounded areas of the letter bulge along the curves and vary in thickness. The only way to reproduce this accurately is to photograph the letters from straight on, with as little distortion as possible, then recreate it in Adobe Illustrator or another similar graphics program. There is no magic wand for this situation. A while ago I did a high resolution recreation of the DODGE BROTHERS APPROVED SERVICE STATION SIGN in Illustrator. I used a photo of an original sign. I had to take the distortion out of the photo before I could even start. After that, I quickly determined that the font used on the sign was not available in digital form. I had to basically trace each letter on the sign to create the type. I quickly discovered that the original artwork for the sign was hand lettered, as each matching letter varied in size, sometimes by quite a bit. I realized that making one “E” and then using it wherever one was required didn’t work. The lettering looked too regular and even, and the sign just looked wrong. If you need artwork for one of these logos, PM me and maybe I can help.