Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I've been trying to come up with a practical way to mount my coil. The 32 Dodge Brothers DL originally had one of those integrated coils where the ignition switch is built into the rear of the coil and the whole unit rests behind the dash as a single unit. Some of these type of coils were mounted on three prongs that accepted bolts on the back of the dash. My setup used a tubular mount that the coil and switch were clamped to. It worked like this - There is a company that still makes this type of coil, but they want almost three hundred bucks for the unit. My original coil was long gone, replaced by an aftermarket ignition switch and a separate, standard coil. I wanted to come up with something that would allow me to mount a coil under the dash, but still retain the ignition switch - since the key matches the key to my sidemount locks. When I bought the car in 1965, it was set up like the graphic below. Unfortunately, the ignition switch extends too far into the clamp to allow me to clamp an aftermarket coil inside behind it. So I came up with this solution - This way I can replace the coil without spending three hundred hard earned dollars. It also keeps the coil up under the dash almost in the original position. Now I have to figure out how to make the tube. The inside diameter of the coil holder is about 2.5 inches. The coil's diemeter is 2.25 inches. I probably don't even need a stepped tube, just one that is 2.25 ID and 2.5 OD. And checking, I found steel tubing with those exact dimensions. An eight inch piece is under ten bucks. My only concern is the combined weight of the coil and the tubing. I do want to keep the coil off the firewall for an original look. Any other ideas that might work?
  2. I checked, but it would be under the gas tank cover and not visible from the top view.
  3. So, I've taken over 4000 photos during the restoration of Daphne. Apparently, that just wasn't enough. I'm going through the exhaust system, getting ready to hook everything up. As I documented in earlier posts, I had the mounting bracket just behind the muffler remade (mine was missing) and the frame bracket re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive. So, all I had left was the rear mounting bracket. The problem is, I have two bags labelled "rear exhaust mount." This one... And this one... I went back through my frame disassembly photos and found these. It's obviously the first bracket, here on the rear of the frame... And here in a shot where i had the frame turned over. This looks like a jury-rigged setup to me. The other bracket looks a lot more substantial, but i can't find a single photograph of it on the frame. Exhaust systems are one of the items that have usually been changed on these old cars, so what is original and what isn't is always a crap shoot. If anyone has a 32 (or even a 31) with what they think is an original exhaust system, I'd be curious if there is anything like bracket two under there. How it got into the bag (with my writing on it) where is came from, and what it actually is, remain a mystery. I have come across a few bags with leftover parts from my long gone 48 Plymouth, but I never did anything to the exhaust on that car.
  4. As far as I know, all 32 radiators have that hole. My car did not come with the thermostatically controlled shutters. The original owner opted for side-mounts and wire wheels, but no shutters.
  5. The radiator attaches to the shell with flat head slotted screws and nuts. The pain is you have to stretch the hood lace away enough to get the screw in there and then get a screwdriver on it to tighten things down. It's a long and tricky process. Then it was time to put everything back on the car. Lots of protection for the fenders. Things went smoothly and the shell dropped into place with no damage, scratches, cursing or other problems. Filled with distilled water after hooking the hoses back up and no leaks or other difficulties,
  6. Put the radiator back in last weekend. Some interesting details in this assembly. First, the water leak that started the problem. And the repair. The area cleaned and soldered. The lower section of the radiator has this stamped steel piece that, I believe, helps direct air up and into the radiator. It attaches with these screw head bolts and nuts. Thankfully, they didn't break when I took things apart. I don't know where I'd ever find replacements. They go through the honeycomb of the radiator. This obviously would be a major problem if the radiator was re-cored with a modern core. Here are the bolts in place. Here you can see the scoop on the radiator. Everything assembled and ready to go. Now I dropped it into the grill shell. Everything fit perfectly - for a change.
  7. Also, add the cost of rechroming the bumpers. Nice looking car.
  8. I think Gary and the rest of the folks on the forum were just trying to answer your questions as best they could. It’s not our job to prove your car is or is not a genuine woodie, but to offer advice on finding the truth. This seems to be your main concern. If you want a nice car that is fun to drive and show at local events, it makes no difference. If you want to strive for national awards and high resale value, you’d better make sure of the car’s origin before you spend big bucks to finish the Pontiac. The word of an auctioneer, a friend or a wife, however well intentioned, do not constitute proof that the car started out as a woodie. You need numbers. Trust me, if you offer the completed car at a premium price in the future, and a prospective buyer asked for documentation that the vehicle is a real woodie, “Prove it’s not!” is not going to go over very well.
  9. Another problem can be getting the body up over the steering column and steering wheel.
  10. I believe the Dodge uses the shorter block. Chrysler and DeSoto used the longer block.
  11. I see the problem. My car’s body was channeled over the frame and it was necessary to remove the running board splash pans and a metal strip that held captive bolts that attached to the frame. I can’t tell if this is the case with your car. I know my 29 Plymouth’s body sat on the top of the frame, but by 1932 many cars had the body channeled for a lower, sleeker look. At any rate, we lifted the body off using a floor lift, placing the support pads under the door hinges. Not ideal, but it was the only way we could figure out how to do it. We could have done it with four or five guys muscling it off - but then you have to put it somewhere, this without scratching the paint. I was lucky, as Dodge Brothers bodies were all steel, with no wood sills or framework. If, as Mark Gregory states, your Reo has a wood frame work, you will have to be very careful as any rotten wood could cause the body to twist or sag when removed from the support of the frame. I’d go very slowly, checking the body as you go. If the wood needs replacing, you’re probably going to loose that nice paint job on the body. Make note of any and all body shims and keep them plainly marked, as they will determine the door hang and clearance. Since they need painting, take all four fenders off first. Keep track of fender welt and other welting around the running boards. Obviously, remove the hood, the running boards, the front and back lights and anything attached to the frame as Tinindian points put. Personally, I would remove the fenders, the running boards and the running board splash pans and take a good look at the frame. If the wood in the body is good, you could mask off and protect the body and restore the frame with the body on. I know you won’t get the area on top of the frame, but if it appears to not be too corroded you may want to take that route. Good luck with your project!
  12. That looks like a very nice car. What problems with the frame do you have that need repair? Is the body channeled over the frame like my 32 Dodge Brothers, or does it rest on the top of the frame rails. Unless your frame really needs attention, lifting the body is a lot of work.
  13. Beyond saying that’s one of the best looking delivery trucks I’ve ever seen, I can’t help you. I wonder if any are still around?
  14. Owner says it was an 8 out of 10 fifty years ago when they stuck it in a barn. Check out the rust holes at the bottom rear of the body. A perfectly good car ruined by indifference and neglect. Only a dedicated Dodge Brothers fan is going to tackle this restoration since you can buy a nice one for a fourth of the cost of the restoration. I sense the odious scent of rat rod wafting in from the barn.
  15. I actually love the pattern, but it strikes me that it is too large in scale to fit the car. I was expecting a much smaller version of that design, which I think would fit the overall look a bit better. Color and look are dead on.
  16. I knew I wasn’t going crazy - I saw the request on the Dodge Brothers Club site on Facebook. I directed the poster to this post.
  17. Someone on the site is looking for this exact light, but I can’t find the darn post. Just saw it 15 minutes ago, and now It’s disappeared into the void. Hopefully he’ll see this post and get in touch.
  18. I do remember the incredibly sappy promo song that went with the car’s introduction - ‘Ford, Thunderbird, Lincoln, Mercury, Continental...and happy day, happy day, the brand new Edsel’s on it’s way!
  19. Since the grill looked like a toilet bowl, I wasn’t impressed. Over the years it’s kind of grown on me.
  20. A lot of this is related to the overall condition of the engine. Is it badly worn, is the oil pump in spec, is the pressure relief valve set up correctly? I’d take a look at the oil pump to start, and then go from there.
  21. Not to get too far into the weeds, but should a 26 Dodge Brothers have chrome or nickel plating. Some dim memory tells me that the 1927 Pontiac was the first car to use chrome plating - don’t quote me on that! Just wondering.
  22. Again, no three positions, just two - on or off. I think the remote starter button theory is the correct one, thus three terminals on a two way switch.
  23. I did mine with the engines fully assembled. It won’t hurt anything with the engine partly or fully disassembled, just make sure to dry everything off and leave no standing water. Put down a tarp or other protection if you do this in your driveway- you’ll never get the rust stains out of the concrete, otherwise. And you're blasting the water passages through the plug holes, not into the cylinders. The mess will shoot out of the other open holes. Take of the water pump, too, as this will give you a large opening at the front of the block to spray into. Trust me, you want to replace the plugs at all cost - easy to do and cheap. Any good auto parts store will have, or can get, the plugs.
  24. Remove all the casting/freeze plugs. Get a pressure washer. Get the nozzle inside one of the openings and blast away. Use a coat hanger to rod out any stubborn areas. Blast in all the openings, in different directions. You will be amazed how much crud will come out. Keep blasting until the water comes out clear. Wait a few minutes, rod out the passages with the coat hanger one more time, then blast again. I’ve done it many times - 48 Plymouth, 29 Plymouth, 32 Dodge Brothers, 50 Dodge - works like a charm. You really want to remove the plugs anyway as they tend to rust from the inside.