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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. When you say it’s “slipping,” exactly what do you mean? Usually the clutch slips. I have never heard of a manual transmission slipping. Is the tranny popping out of gear or not completely engaging into a gear? As I have mentioned before, adapting a different transmission to a Floating Power drivetrain is no simple job. If you are really determined to change out the entire drivetrain, the mounting system will have to be changed, This would mean more conventional motor mounts, a new bellhousing with “ears” to mount to the frame. A new rear transmission mount, new drive shaft, removing and welding in correct spring mounts on the rear end. This would require cutting and modifying the frame. You are not going to buy a T5 and an adaptor and bolt it into this car. I would check the clutch before I did anything else. A new clutch, refinished pressure plate and new throw-out bearing is a much cheaper and more practical solution.
  2. No problem. I’d hate to see it go to the scrappers. I know how hard it is to find parts from this era, but I also know how difficult it is to sell a parts car like this. I would buy it and part it out if I could, but I’m spending all my free time on the restoration of my 32 Dodge Brothers.
  3. This is on eBay for a $14,500 buy it now price. Really nice, running, driving car with accessory wire wheels.
  4. There are several similar cars for sale in The Dodge Brothers Club News, our club magazine. A nice 23 touring for $13,500. A 23 roadster that needs some work for $6200. A 20 touring that needs a total restoration for $2000. Top dollar for a pristine, running car is around 18 grand. I have seen some advertised for more than that - up to 45 grand - but they stay on the market for a long, long time. If it really is an original survivor, and not an old restoration, it’s worth more. I looked at a totally original 1918 touring car two years ago for $8000. If the motor had been running, I would have purchased it.
  5. As I'm repairing my transmission leak, crawling under the car, I noticed many of the bare metal parts I had painted clear were rusty as all get out. Either i forgot to paint some of this stuff, or the paint did a crummy job of protecting things. Take the freewheeling lever, for instance. This was shiny and bright last fall. So I painted it and many other small parts around the transmission. Maybe not totally original, but pretty maintenance free. I also got my headlight reflectors back from the re-silvering company. They look good, but are really hard to photograph. Nothing leaking from the tranny, so far.
  6. Motor number is ES48001. Has this strange electrical setup. Again, I'm not an expert. Also this on the exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is supposed to do. Motometer has wings cracked off. Good for parts only. That's it. The frame appears solid. I know Chad wants to sell it whole, but I told him he'd have to find someone near enough who really needs it to haul it away. It was his Dad's, so he doesn't want to scrap it, but he's not an enthusiast and has a lot on his plate trying to clean up his father's estate. He wants $800, but I'm sure he'll take less. I have no idea if any of this is rare or valuable, but folks on this forum should know, and I hope the pictures help.
  7. Fenders are rusty with some metal missing. Still has both levers. Don't know if these are hard to find - they sure are in Chrysler products. One hubcap. Has a dent. Instruments still there, but in rough shape. The aluminum plates around the steering column, accelerator pedal and starter are still there and in good shape.
  8. This car was close by, so I thought I'd drive over and take a look. Chad mainly wanted to know if this was a Big Six or not. I'm a Dodge Brothers guy, and my Studebaker knowledge is about zero, so I figured some of you guys might have a better idea if anything on the car is worth anything or not. I read on the internet that the 1926 Studebaker Big Six had a 120 inch or 127 inch wheelbase, so I brought my trusty tape measure and discovered a wheelbase of 157 inches! Just a guess, but was this a firetruck, commercial vehicle or a hearse/ambulance? I tried to get shots of the most important areas. It's a four wheel brake car/truck. Pretty rough - been sitting outside a long time. Unfortunately, the head is off the motor and has crude welding repair. Too bad as the bores didn't have a ridge, but now lots of rust inside. Intake manifold is cracked at the bolt supports, the exhaust looks okay. I don't think the headlights are correct.
  9. Thanks, Jack. Been there, done that. No leaks so far.
  10. My sealing washers arrived and I installed one on the shaft clamp bolt on my transmission. Since I can fill the transmission without reinstalling the freewheeling extension, I filled the transmission case and moved on to other projects. I’ll see if any leaks develope over the next few weeks. If all goes well, I’ll put everything back together - hopefully for the final time.
  11. Interior or exterior? Exterior - remove the two screws on the handle escutcheon and the handle will come out with the escutcheon attached to the handle shaft. Interior - push the door panel in around the handle. You will see a small round pin in the handle in the square area behind the circular part of the handle. Push the pin out with an ice pick or very small diameter screwdriver. With the pin removed, the handle will pull off.
  12. With your current tires, I don’t think there would be a noticeable difference. I could always easily lock up my wheels with the original brakes. If you have grease on the pads, there’s a big part of your problem. If you have grease on the rear pads, the front disks are not going to help much - time for a reline of the shoes, which any good brake shop can do. Or you can rivet them on yourself.
  13. That looks like a quality kit, but you’re going to be close to 900 bucks once you buy all the accessories that are not included. You can totally rebuild your original system for a little over a third of that. There are virtually no mechanical parts that are not available for your car. Ask me anytime - I’ve replaced all of mine. ? l guess most of us really admire your car and would prefer to see it kept as original as possible. Still, you don’t have the original motor, so I guess it’s a bit hypocritical to insist on total originality. A different axle ratio will get you a better top speed, but you will labor in hilly country. A different axle will cost more than a rebuild of your current axle, and you may have to rebuild the axle you pull out of the junkyard anyway. Then there is cutting off the spring hanger pads and welding on correctly spaced pads. Then the adapters to match your wheel bolt patterns. You’ll probably have close to two grand spent for a marginal increase in top speed, slightly better braking, sluggish starts and poor performance on hills. Or spend five or six hundred bucks to rebuild the original brakes and rear axle. I’m signing off on this argument. You’ll do what you feel is necessary and right in the long run. Feel free to ask any questions about your original stuff and I’ll be glad to chime in if I can help.
  14. I don’t want to sound like the crabby old man yelling to the neighborhood kids to get off his lawn, but half the fun of owning a vintage vehicle is experiencing what it was like to drive one of these old buggies back in the day. Trying to take halfway measures to make the car “drivable” usually results in a bad experience for the driver and the car. These Dodges have Lockheed brakes. If adjusted properly and up to specifications, they stop the car very nicely. If you have to pump the brakes three times just to stop the car, there is something wrong with your brakes. Are they adjusted properly? Are the linings worn or oil saturated? Are the drums worn? Have you checked the lines and fittings? Are the master cylinder and wheel cylinders smooth inside and leak free? Are the rubber fittings soft and pliable? How long since the fluid has been drained and replaced with fresh fluid? You’re going to have to do all this if you plan on installing disk brakes anyway, so why not do it now and see what happens? To expect a car car of this age to perform like a modern car is ridiculous. Ever seen the lube chart for your Dodge? I’ve spent many an afternoon under my car lubing the dozens of fittings on all manner of moving parts. There are no sealed bearings or permanently lubed parts on these cars. You don’t get in and drive them 30,000 miles with no maintenance. As I’ve tried to point out, you don’t just slap on a set of disk brakes in a couple of hours. Although there are partial kits for later Mopars, I don’t believe there are any for our earlier cars. So, be prepared to do an extensive search for a disk setup that will work on your car - correct diameter, stopping power, calipers - then find a machine shop that can cut out and drill your brake supports - after you’ve designed them and made up the cad drawings. Then chose your master cylinder - after you have designed your new mounting system and how it will connect the the pedal. After fabricating the new mounts and pedal linkage, properly shield the area and weld the mounts to the frame - after cutting off the old mounts and destroying the old system. Now fabricate and install new brake lines since the old lines will no longer fit your new configuration. Don’t forget to fabricate and install the mount for the proportioning valve you’ll need to keep proper balance between the front disks and rear drums. Then take the car out and experiment, adjusting the valve until you get the braking correct. After all this you may get marginally better braking which will still be limited to those four inch tire treads. in my experience, unless you are a good fabricator, welder and designer, or have an excellent hot rod shop in the area, many of these “update projects” end up with the car sitting in the garage half apart until the owner loses interest and sells it as a project. You seem to genuinely enjoy driving your Dodge. Use it as it was meant to be used, maintain the original systems and get them to spec if something is worn out or malfunctioning. My 32 was my first car. I bought it in 1965 and drove it daily up in Syracuse, New York during bitterly hard winters, deep snow and icy roads. It always started and ran just fine. It was my daily driver, all original and I wouldn’t (and haven’t) changed a thing, and I’m glad of it.
  15. Nice looking Pontiac. Are the bumpers painted or powder coated? They don’t match the chrome on the rest of the car. As you said, a nice entry level car.
  16. Plus, there is a lot more than just adding the fenders or adding the wells to existing fenders. The side mount fenders have a separate brace that attaches from the frame to the back of the fender well. This brace supports a chrome rod that attaches the tire clamp. The rod offers further support by being attached to the body by a chrome extension piece. Then there are the tire locks, very hard to find, and the pins that hold the locks to the fenders. With out all this hardware, the fenders will not support the weight of the tires over a period of time and they could become damaged.
  17. If the 33 has the same type of Floating Power that my 32 has, putting in a different transmission may be a lot more difficult than you think. My motor and transmission, as a unit, are suspended by two rubber mounts, one at the front of the engine and one at the rear of the transmission, on the free wheeling extension. The bellhousing floats free, supported by a rubber pad on a removable crossmember. The bellhousing does not attach to the frame with the usual ears found on most cars. Trying to put something like a T-5 in is going to take some really creative engineering. You would have to design a rear cradle rubber mount with the correct durometer rating that attached to the removable transmission cross piece, and the cross piece would probably have to be rebuilt or entirely redesigned and fabricated. The Dodge 32 Floating Power has the entire motor and trans floating on rubber in a manner totally different than conventional mounting systems and is not conducive to trans swaps.
  18. As I mentioned in your other post, Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize these mounts with fresh rubber to factory specs. The cost for the rear mount was around sixty bucks when I had it done. This is a vital part of the Floating Power setup. I would not try and replace it with a different compound or material that has a totally different durometer reading. In my car this mount is steel with a vulcanized rubber insert, held to the transmission by four bolts in threaded holes, and to the removable cross member by two nuts and bolts.
  19. I’m not sure if the 33 Floating Power setup is the same as my 32 - for your sake I hope not. There is a photo of the rear of my transmission (actually the free wheeling extension of the tranny) on page 52 of this thread. Are you calling the rubber Floating Power mount a bushing? If that is the case my rear rubber mount is attached to the free wheeling case by four bolts, two on each side, and attached to the removable frame cross member by two bolts. The only way to get it off is to remove the transmission by unbolting the bolts on the bellhousing and the four bolts that hold on the cross member. Be sure to support the rear of the engine at the bellhousing so that you don’t crush the rubber pad on the removable cross support. There are detailed photos of all this earlier in this thread. If you could post a shot or two of your transmission, I can tell you if you have the same setup. My my car has only one rubber support at the rear of the transmission.. Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize your mounts. They did all three of mine. This is also discussed and illustrated earlier in this thread.
  20. What's the best way to go about restaking? Not quite sure of the best way to do it without damaging things. My handles were disassembled by Paul's Chrome, so I'm flying a bit blind on reassembly.
  21. Looks like McMaster-Carr has these washers in two different types. My bolt is a 5/16 with a shaft diameter of .310. It seems either of these washers would work for my purposes. Shipping will probably be more expensive than the washers themselves. They're not exactly the same as the British/Australian units, but it appears they do the same job.
  22. Nothing but metric sizes that I can find. I’ll have to mic the bolt and see if I can find something close. I wonder if a copper compression washer would do the job? It states in the literature that the bonded seals were designed to replace compression washers.
  23. I’m not sure what a bonded seal washer is. My ignorance is showing. Inquiring minds want to know.
  24. Of all aspects of this restoration, the transmission has proven to be the biggest problem - so far. From a chipped gear tooth, to shot bearings, to a total rebuild, this area of the car has caused trouble from the beginning. I've complained before about the awful engineering setup that makes access to the rear of the transmission almost impossible due to the free wheeling unit and the rubber rear mount for the Floating Power. I chronicled the problem with the leak that developed last year from the area where the shafts enter the trans casing. I thought I had it fixed, using a recommended sealant on the shafts. Much to my dismay, this spring the leak was back. Much slower, but it managed to run out and down along the bottom of the trans case over the winter. This forced me to remove the freewheeling case, rubber mount and transmission cross support once again. as the shaft area is impossible to access when these items are in place. So, off it all came, resulting in this... Notice the rust developing on some of the bolts. This will be a good time to address that problem. All to this had to come off to get the freewheeling unit off. The freewheeling unit after removal. I'm going to have to make up a new gasket as the old (new) one was destroyed prying the units apart. At least i was able to leave the parking brake drum and U-joint in place. Once I could see the problem area, I was relieved to discover the leak was coming from the bolt in the center of the locking plate and not the shaft areas. Here's an old picture of what the area looks like. I was too lazy to take pictures while I was under the car today. I had put a rubber grommet on the bolt to prevent leaks, but I discovered it had torn when I torqued it down. The leak came along the threads and out behind the bolt head. I plan to seal the bolt threads with thread compound this time and place a fiber washer under the bolt washer. Hopefully this will finally fix the problem. I'm going to fill the tranny up over the shafts and wait a few weeks before I put everything back together - just in case. Guess I better get going on that gasket - and cleaning off the remains of the old one.
  25. The only price I see is $495. If so, I’ll take it!