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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Nothing but metric sizes that I can find. I’ll have to mic the bolt and see if I can find something close. I wonder if a copper compression washer would do the job? It states in the literature that the bonded seals were designed to replace compression washers.
  2. I’m not sure what a bonded seal washer is. My ignorance is showing. Inquiring minds want to know.
  3. Of all aspects of this restoration, the transmission has proven to be the biggest problem - so far. From a chipped gear tooth, to shot bearings, to a total rebuild, this area of the car has caused trouble from the beginning. I've complained before about the awful engineering setup that makes access to the rear of the transmission almost impossible due to the free wheeling unit and the rubber rear mount for the Floating Power. I chronicled the problem with the leak that developed last year from the area where the shafts enter the trans casing. I thought I had it fixed, using a recommended sealant on the shafts. Much to my dismay, this spring the leak was back. Much slower, but it managed to run out and down along the bottom of the trans case over the winter. This forced me to remove the freewheeling case, rubber mount and transmission cross support once again. as the shaft area is impossible to access when these items are in place. So, off it all came, resulting in this... Notice the rust developing on some of the bolts. This will be a good time to address that problem. All to this had to come off to get the freewheeling unit off. The freewheeling unit after removal. I'm going to have to make up a new gasket as the old (new) one was destroyed prying the units apart. At least i was able to leave the parking brake drum and U-joint in place. Once I could see the problem area, I was relieved to discover the leak was coming from the bolt in the center of the locking plate and not the shaft areas. Here's an old picture of what the area looks like. I was too lazy to take pictures while I was under the car today. I had put a rubber grommet on the bolt to prevent leaks, but I discovered it had torn when I torqued it down. The leak came along the threads and out behind the bolt head. I plan to seal the bolt threads with thread compound this time and place a fiber washer under the bolt washer. Hopefully this will finally fix the problem. I'm going to fill the tranny up over the shafts and wait a few weeks before I put everything back together - just in case. Guess I better get going on that gasket - and cleaning off the remains of the old one.
  4. The only price I see is $495. If so, I’ll take it!
  5. That’s a possibility, but I don’t relish taking the transmission apart after I just rebuilt it.
  6. Unfortunately, I used the Permatex Quick Metal Sealer during the last go around. That’s why I thought I had the problem solved. As to the bolt, all my bolts have the DB logo stamped on them and I’m trying to keep things as original as possible. My knee problem seems minuscule next to your injuries. Glad you’re back on your feet.
  7. So I’m back at work on Daphne. The first thing I noticed were nearly all the nuts and bolts around the tranny and the handbrake had rusted to a rich golden brown. I spend two days cleaning them up and painting them. No big deal, except after I put the car up on stands I discovered a puddle of oil under the transmission. The leak that I thought I’d finally fixed last summer has returned with a vengeance. The oil is coming out around the shafts in the tranny. I thought I had sealed them up, but I was wrong. So out comes the tranny for the third time. This time I’m going to see if there is enough room to drive a freeze/casting plug into the shaft opening, providing I can find one with the correct diameter. I can’t understand why the trans was designed this way. It wouldn’t have been that hard to leave the rear shaft openings closed at the back of the transmission. Anyway, back to the drawing board.
  8. Anyone out there an expert on ball bearings? I discovered two 3/8 inch ball bearings in my transmission shifter gate are in less than stellar condition. They are simple round ball bearings held against a detent by a coil spring. I see they are available all over the place, but with different ratings and varying prices. What should I be looking for as far as hardness and material? Will stainless hold up, or should i stick with steel? I just want something that will wear well and hold up under the pressure of constant shifting. I know there is a lot of cheap Chinese junk on the market, so I'm searching for a good source. All this over two little balls of steel!
  9. As far as I know, these units take 10w oil, not tranny fluid.
  10. Wow, this should resolve most of those originality problems you’ve been having. Are you going to use the front fenders off the sedan? I recall the roadster fenders were a problem early on.
  11. Yeah, I did the same search, but couldn't find the post I'm talking about. It may have been called something else, or buried in another topic. Hopefully, whoever posted the information will spot this and reply.
  12. Several month ago someone posted an excellent source for cloth hidem welt in various colors and patterns. The vendor was selling it in 30 and 60 foot rolls at a reasonable price. As usual, I managed to loose the the name of the company and their website. If anyone can help me get the information back, i would be eternally grateful.
  13. Wow, sorry to hear that. I’ve enjoyed reading about all the trials and tribulations you’ve gone through with your car. Good luck with the sale.
  14. What parts are you looking for? What model Chrysler? Four or six cylinder?
  15. Hell, I cried when I got my 32DL back after 45 years. First car I ever owned. Bought it in 1965 and sold it to a buddy in 1967 - forced to sell by my dad. Cried when I sold it, too. Luckily, my buddy kept it all those years. Pardon me while I break down. ?
  16. Sitting around, waiting for my knee to heal, I dug out some photos of Daphne through the years of her restoration. I have to admit that the difference between the first photo ( the day I first saw her after 45 years and the last photo (a few months ago, before I installed the bumpers) is pretty remarkable. I'm heading out into the garage for the first time in many months to start working on her again. I'm still hobbling around, but I can actually move enough to work on the car. I won't make the national meet in Green Bay this year as i hoped, but the Lake of the Ozarks Meet in 2019 is my goal.
  17. IT's not always necessary. I've seen lead in perfect shape after eighty years, and I've seen it deteriorated, cracking and falling apart. On a full restoration, I'd take it out, make sure the surface below is in good shape, then replace with new lead - especially on a car with failed paint that's been out in the elements. Not always necessary, but a simple choice of how far you want to go. Body filler, even the reinforced variety might work, but I would question it's flexibility over a period of time. Filler is designed to be used in very thin coats, not in quarter inch slabs. Some of these leaded areas need a thicker coverage than practical with filler. But use what you think is practical, I've certainly been wrong before - and will be again. ?
  18. It's lead, the "body filler" of the day. The old lead needs to be melted out and the area re-leaded, which takes some skill.
  19. Do those doors look odd? Maybe cut down coupe doors, or was this a cabriolet - though the cowl looks correct for a roadster.
  20. How long ago did she run fine? Does the starter seem to spin about as fast as it did back in the day when the car would start? Before I messed with a 12 volt, I'd make sure the battery wires were in good shape, that there is a good ground, that the plugs are clean and in working order, the the motor is properly timed and gas is getting to the carb. Is the coil good? Make sure all the wiring is connected and in good shape.
  21. There are varying theories on this, ranging from absolute truth to total BS, but striking a hammer with another hammer is usually frowned upon. They can apparently shatter and spray metal shards. Just a friendly warning, and I may be all hot air.
  22. I feel your pain, Ian. Health issues and three film projects have my restoration temporarily stalled. My knee is now almost healed and I'm finishing up the last film, so with the weather warming up, I hope to get back to my car very soon. Sometimes I wonder where the time goes.
  23. My 32 Dodge Brothers has anti-squeak between the fenders and frame. Orgininal to the car when I took it apart.