Spinneyhill

That is actually the steering box I think.

Which series?

This purports to be a 1926 Dodge Brothers. The dash is quite different.

Xclnt news on the steering box and even better on you. I don't think they will let you lie around in bed for long! All the best for your recovery.

I think we have seen another NZ photo of Hupmobiles being unwrapped from their boxes. I think they were complete but sitting on their brake backing plates with the wheels inside or somewhere.

When you drop the pan, make sure the top surface is dead flat like the machined bottom of the block is. Don't tighten it too much or you will bend it again. Also, on my DC, ALL the sump bolts have one end in the oily zone inside and one in the air below. It is almost impossible to keep the oil in the sump - it leaks out the bolt threads.

If it were mine, I would take it apart and see how it works. Then the repair might be clear.

This is the first paragraph of the Wikipedia article on Ruska. "Ruska was a car manufacturer based in the Netherlands from 1968 to 1981 who manufacturer several open seater fibreglass bodied cars and beach buggies. The cars bodies were built on a Volkswagen chassis.[1] Ruska are now an automobile repair garage at 115-123 Lauriersgracht, 1016 RJ Amsterdam. "

More likely to be The Borrowers. They will be using them as a stool.

Xclnt!

Are these what you want? For this much money I would make my own! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-6-Snap-Ring-Retaining-Washers-Reproduced-in-STAINLESS-in-Mint-Condition/254371680837?hash=item3b39bbd245:g:P0gAAOSwRZVdjZn6

Do you have a pitch gauge? That one above can do 8 pitches, one of which is likely to be the one you want. Anyway, you should use a pitch gauge to test first.

In this country, we have the Consumer Guarantees Act. Basically, a product must be of merchantable quality and fit for purpose. A car should not fail one week out of warranty; that would still be the dealer's problem. My cousin has a Subaru Outback. It is about 4 years old and was bought with a 3-year warranty. They didn't use it for work before they retired so it is a fairly low mileage car. On a trip earlier this year, it started running poorly and he had to nurse it along out of the wilderness to a Subaru dealer. It turned out a sensor had failed and it cost $900 to replace. Too bad. When he got home, he approached Subaru NZ and pointed out that a sensor should not fail at that age, esp. on a car maintained by the dealer as required. They agreed and refunded the money. Some companies attempt to sell "extended guarantees". Basically, they are worthless, because it is all covered by the CGA. The "guarantee", of course, specifically writes out the CGA. I have come across this myself with a modem-router. It was an American brand and the help line was to an American-speaking person who-knows-where. One week out of warranty, they didn't want to know. I chased up the merchant in NZ and got a refund.

The sign in the window says "EMM'S MOTOR SERVICE", which perhaps indicates it is being used as a service car = long distance passenger vehicle.

Or make or buy a ball turning attachment that will also work for a seat. Joe showed us his fancy one a while ago.

I find it easier to write down my sequence of actions along with the measurements required. 'Else I will forget and get myself in a pickle, quickly.

Don't give up on that one! I would try a thread file first. It might take a while, but it should clean up with a bit of patience. Well, maybe a lot of patience. Mine is like that below: the ends do internal threads, the main body does external threads. This one can do 8 pitches. https://www.webbikeworld.com/repair-threads-thread-file/

Great news! We all hope it goes very well for you and look forward to your speedy recovery.

That is an unusual size. I think the Model A balls are 1" diameter but don't quote me! Then and Now make balls for spring loaded ends (e.g. drag links). They may even have a set that size. You want to speak to Tom Hanaford at Then and Now.

What about the OP's plate? Model 392, body 5....

The first thing you need to do is draw it up. I used a free 3D CAD programme to draw up some grommets for reproduction. I have drawn a 2D of the steering post pad. I learnt the programme FreeCAD to do the drawings.

Make one! @chistech has shown us how to make the mold in his thread on the '32 Olds. I was wondering about making a steering post draft pad myself; the RHD version is different to the LHD version and no-one makes the RHD one. I was wondering about using HDF with suitable router bits to make the molds. Know anyone with a CNC router?

My Dodge 8 is a devil for carb icing. So I start it, idle for 5 minutes or more, shut down, go and get my jacket, lunch, camera, comfort stop etc. When ready, start up and drive away. The heat from the exhaust manifold and engine has warmed the carb enough that the temperature drop below the venturi is not enough to reach freezing. I just live with it. As the air plus fuel expands below the venturi, it has to absorb warmth to expand (make the molecules move further and faster and thus spread apart). Energy is taken from where it is available, including the carb body. Expanding gases must absorb warmth; when you compress a gas, it must give off energy to slow the gas molecule movement (to pack them together more tightly), so the compressing system heats up. I seem to remember something called Brownian Motion in relation to this.

Not sure that graphite is the right lubricant. It will promote galvanic corrosion. It looks like your cylinder is made of steel or similar; mine is Zamac die-cast and corrodes at the drop of a hat. You might be better to wash it out and put some silicon spray in there, the same stuff you use on your segmented garage door wheels etc.. Or some Dry Glide.

BRAKES stop you. BREAKS also stop you but there is something to fix because it is broken.