TonyAus

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About TonyAus

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  • Birthday 12/04/1949

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  1. If all else fails, jack up the offending wheel, leaving the opposite wheel on the ground. Loosely refit the axle nut with the castleations facing inward to protect the thread and give it a good whack with a suitably heavy hammer. A piece of brass or aluminium interposed between the nut and hammer is also a good idea to avoid damage. This should bounce the wheel off the axle taper.
  2. For the record the thread is a nominal 2 3/8" x 16tpi. The spare I have measures 10 thou under this for an easy fit. The easiest way out if your threads are worn is to have an oversize nut made up.
  3. Peugeot (and Fiat) disengaging fans operate on an electromagnet in the hub triggered by a thermostatic switch. Current is passed through a brush bearing on the hub. Most modern cars use an independent version held against the radiator core. Shop around for one thin enough for your application and fit a manual switch for use if things start to get warm.
  4. The only thing to watch is that the 1926 series shells have a bead all around the rear flange. I think you will find that the high shells without a bracket are 1923 series and otherwise identical to the 1924-25 series.
  5. Thanks - I think that answers my question. With regard to other DB tools I think that if you if you are really keen the ones to find are the specialized workshop tools made by Miller Tool, and Manufacturing Co. I have their catalog (undated) which shows a range of gadgets indispensable to the contemporary DB repairer. Is anyone familiar with these?
  6. Thanks, but nothing here relevant to my question. Does the Dodge Brother's Club publication mention anything about the L prefix to spanner numbers?
  7. For some time I've been collecting every DB tool kit spanner I see. You would be surprised how many turn up for $A1 or less. While I'm familiar with the usual ones (Q6164, 6165 and 1191) with the usual variations of size indications and Moore Forging marks a couple do not conform. These are 1191s (3/4" and 7/8") with an L rather than Q prefix and clearly marked D.B. My question is, are these from the early teens? All the hand books I have are from the 1920s and only mention the Q series of numbers.
  8. A friend of mine needs a 24 inch Dodge Brothers spare tyre mount complete (or even just the circular bit). Can anyone in Australia only help? Please PM me if you have one. Thanks in anticipation.
  9. The original method of holding the impeller to the shaft is a number one taper pin (standard taper of 1/4" per foot). In theory you should be able to drive it out easily from the rear. However, the pin may be rusted in place. I managed to remove mine by tapping the pin at both ends after applying heat and WD40. You will note that the pin is slightly offset to the shaft. I suspect that originally the impellers were individually drilled and pinned. Therefore a replacement shaft should, in theory, be drilled to suit your impeller. Being a bit of a perfectionist I made up my own shaft and taper pin, reaming the impeller and shaft to suit. The pin was then driven in with a little Loctite for good measure. I'm not sure that using a roll pin in this location is a good idea given the alternate heating and cooling cycle which may degrade the spring in the pin. You might consider using a plain pin riveted over at both ends. In any event the tapered hole in the impeller would need to be drilled parallel to suit the pin.
  10. I can only quote from the Book of Information. "Since the primary current must be broken while at its maximum to give the hottest spark, the gears driving the distributor rotor must never be disturbed". Sound like your extra performance came from additional advance but a weaker spark. The rebuilder was only following sound practice. I understand that Cled Davies in Bendigo sells an adjustable magneto coupling to achieve additional advance without compromising the spark - could be your answer.
  11. Problem now solved. The drive gear keyway on the shaft I had made nearly forty years ago was cut approximately 15 degrees out. Not enough spark advance and therefore overheating. It should go like a bomb after I get a new shaft made!
  12. For all you hanging on this topic I've been able to determine from a local source that, viewed from the front, the drive gear keyways on original shafts were cut approximately 28 degrees behind the others - which were in line. This means that the use of a shaft as supplied by Myers would give me a retard position of 20 degrees before TDC and an advance position of 40 degrees before TDC. Probably not good given the correct figures of 8 degrees after TDC and 12 degrees before TDC respectively. Moving the drive gear from the timing marks would give a 16.36 degree correction per tooth. Two teeth would therefore give a 3.28 degree ATDC retard and 16.72 degree BTDC advance - possibly not ideal. Looks like I'll have to get a shaft made locally.
  13. The purpose of this hatch is to provide access to the trunk when the top is folded back. The folded top doesn't allow the trunk lid to fully open.