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About TonyAus

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  • Birthday 12/04/1949

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  1. For those interested in an informative read the author of America Adopts the Automobile 1895-1910 is J J (JIm) Flink, then Professor of Transportation and Cultural Studies at the University of California. Some of his other transport related stuff is also worth chasing up. Unfortunately I understand that his interests subsequently moved on to the history of jazz.
  2. An easy one. This arrangement when used in the context of steam engines is called a Scotch Yoke. Not that its origin lies in Scotland but in that the yoke is scotched (restrained). What you may know as a chock (to stop your wheeled vehicle running away) is in steam parlance a scotch. I also have a vague recollection that Subaru has recently used this device in a power steering pump or something similar. Was a patent granted? I'm pretty sure that the use of the Scotch Yoke goes well back into the nineteenth century.
  3. With regard to downshifting , engaging neutral brings the main shaft and layshaft into mesh relatively easily because of the oil drag. Revving the engine at this point raises the speed (inertia) of both shafts. As the lower gear is selected there will be a disparity when the layshaft starts to slow. However, the higher the layshaft inertia the less this disparity will be and the better the chance of a silent mesh of gears. At least this is my theory as it appears to work .
  4. With regard to easier gear changing I can see a problem of logic. From practical experience the technique for changing up is to slow the gearbox input shaft. This can be achieved by releasing the clutch, backing off the throttle, engaging neutral (all in one action) and re-engaging the clutch. After the flywheel has slowed the engine and the still connected gearbox input shaft the clutch can be disengaged/re-engaged and the upward gearshift made without clashing the gears. To change down the input shaft must be speeded up by revving the engine quickly while the gearbox is in neutral.
  5. You may not be aware that it is currently illegal to carry unrestrained children under seven years. Just as well you were not spotted by the authorities.
  6. The correct technique is to position the panel over the timber and use a very sharp punch when the nails go. The punch should penetrate the steel just enough to start a nail. This way the steel is slightly sunk into the timber and also grabs the nail. Of course you should use flat head nails. Both the timber and steel should be well sealed to avoid rusting in the joints. You might consider a sealer such as Cuprinol followed by an oil base primer and paint for the timber. If into overkill you could use a rust killer undercoat on the steel followed by wipe of cavity wax.
  7. Oops, correction. I missed out by 100,000. My reply should read between 12 June (A-120000) and 26 June (A-130000) 1924.
  8. Not 1916. Car number A-127447 ( the A indicating one million) was assembled between 22 January (A-20000) and 6 February (A-30000) 1924.
  9. The car in the photo looks like a Maxwell. In any event, the usual headlight lens diameter of a car in this class is around nine inches. Hope this helps.
  10. Good advice. Look there first. Wear in the steering box will manifest itself as excessive slack at the wheel rim. Wear in the worm can be taken up by rotating the eccentric bush to adjust mesh with the sector. If this results in tight spots the worm can be rotated after removing the pitman arm. The top and bottom bushes may also be worn. Replacements can be turned up and line reamed to size. Clear details on adjustments are provided in the Book of Information.
  11. The rests on my car, like many used on Australian made bodies, are cast bronze - presumably a phosphor bronze which has strength similar to steel. The force you mention is applied to the hook and the hinge pin - both of which are steel. Their location points are in the thickest part of the casting and I've never seen failure in this area. Consult your local For reference, Holdens bodied roadsters like mine have the locating pins at an angle whereas those on the Holdens tourers come straight out.
  12. Cled Davies was selling the gears at Bendigo last year. Check out his list. http://www.dbca.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Cled-Davies-_-Stock-List-2019-_-2020.pdf
  13. That is the correct tube. It's slipped between the exhaust manifold and the aforementioned plate and held in place by the valve chest covers. The tube is only meant to draw hot air from around the exhaust manifold in extremely cold weather. This is achieved by closing the shutter ring around the carburettor intake. All other running should be with the shutter ring open. The Book of Information states that its purpose is to avoid condensation.
  14. A sketch with dimensions is attached. I've stuck to imperial measurements in deference to US viewers and the fact that the original was made to these standards. Please use the sketch with reference to the following notes: The tool was made with reference to a four inch wide Kelsey rim. This is reflected in the four inch crossbar used on the longer arms. If you have wider rims, make the longer crossbar equal to the distance between the edges of the rim and the shorter one 1/2" less. The 1"x1/4" I used for the arms does make the tool relatively heavy but it is very st
  15. After a bit of head scratching and some cut and try I've manage to come up with a working solution. This tool is clearly the answer to all my fears. It gives a full three inch overlap with little effort and holds the rim firmly in the shrunk position. Removing the tyre and tube should be easy. All I need now (like a hole in the head) is a flat! The sides are made out of 25x4mm (1"x1/4") black (hot rolled) steel and the locating pins from salvaged high tensile cylinder head bolts. If there's any interest I can post a sketch with full dimensions to save the couple of days it took me t
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