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TonyAus

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About TonyAus

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  • Birthday 12/04/1949

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  1. The rests on my car, like many used on Australian made bodies, are cast bronze - presumably a phosphor bronze which has strength similar to steel. The force you mention is applied to the hook and the hinge pin - both of which are steel. Their location points are in the thickest part of the casting and I've never seen failure in this area. Consult your local For reference, Holdens bodied roadsters like mine have the locating pins at an angle whereas those on the Holdens tourers come straight out.
  2. Cled Davies was selling the gears at Bendigo last year. Check out his list. http://www.dbca.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Cled-Davies-_-Stock-List-2019-_-2020.pdf
  3. That is the correct tube. It's slipped between the exhaust manifold and the aforementioned plate and held in place by the valve chest covers. The tube is only meant to draw hot air from around the exhaust manifold in extremely cold weather. This is achieved by closing the shutter ring around the carburettor intake. All other running should be with the shutter ring open. The Book of Information states that its purpose is to avoid condensation.
  4. A sketch with dimensions is attached. I've stuck to imperial measurements in deference to US viewers and the fact that the original was made to these standards. Please use the sketch with reference to the following notes: The tool was made with reference to a four inch wide Kelsey rim. This is reflected in the four inch crossbar used on the longer arms. If you have wider rims, make the longer crossbar equal to the distance between the edges of the rim and the shorter one 1/2" less. The 1"x1/4" I used for the arms does make the tool relatively heavy but it is very st
  5. After a bit of head scratching and some cut and try I've manage to come up with a working solution. This tool is clearly the answer to all my fears. It gives a full three inch overlap with little effort and holds the rim firmly in the shrunk position. Removing the tyre and tube should be easy. All I need now (like a hole in the head) is a flat! The sides are made out of 25x4mm (1"x1/4") black (hot rolled) steel and the locating pins from salvaged high tensile cylinder head bolts. If there's any interest I can post a sketch with full dimensions to save the couple of days it took me t
  6. Thanks Ron Please disregard some of the email I sent you earlier - I should have read this post first! Tony
  7. I've manage to Google up these images. All I need now is the overall length of each of the sides (long and short) and the vertical distance between the pivot point (with the wing nut) and the reduced section which fits into the rim.
  8. The brake band should be forced into roundness at four adjustment points. The first is the top bolt (with lock nut) which exerts pressure through a flat spring bearing on the back of the band. The second is the bottom rear bolt which goes through the saddle riveted to the band and the square protrusion on the backing plate. This bolt also bears on the band and its position is secured by a coil spring which fits into the square protrusion. Finally, the adjustment is maintained by a lock wire through the head of the bolt. The last two adjustment points are, of course, at the fro
  9. I had a similar idea but using flat steel about 3/4" x 1/4" for the sides and 1/2" steel rod for the ends. A screwed rod through hole on the centres of the sides would carry the wing nut and the round bits that fit into the rim could be made from hardened silver steel (or high tensile) screwed onto the sides (if this makes sense). I saw one made this way many years ago but it subsequently vanished before I could claim it. Ron, if you have time I'd like some dimensions, particularly of the clip on the longer handle.
  10. More pictures from the Studebaker handbook showing modus operandi of the tool
  11. Hi Ron I've been looking for one of these for years. Attached is a scan from Studebaker Big Six handbook showing one as part of the supplied toolkit (just above crankhandle). Is the spreader you have the same or similar?
  12. Not sure about the maker - my list only goes up to 1926. However, the technique would be to knock out the pin (if remaining) and lever the male part up with a large screwdriver so the rim ends overlap to the left in the above photo. Note at this is flat rim rather than a well base. It needs to be shrunk so the rigid wire in the tyre bead can get over the rim. With a modern well base rim the bead is forced down towards the wheel centre to achieve the same result.
  13. No. I've assumed that he has Kelsey No 210 rims which have flat locking plate.
  14. Failing a rim tool, the rim may be parted by using a heavy screwdriver under the locking tab. The tab is at the split - lever up under the pointed bit. After the rim ends overlap, remove the tyre with a suitable pair of irons. A very useful tool is a comprehensive dictionary of profanities.
  15. When all else fails, read the instructions. Brake adjustment is well covered in the Book of Information. Key points are that the brake levers should lean backwards and not be pulled over centre, clearance between the drums and linings should be set with a .015" feeler gauge and the pedal should engage about 1/2" above the floorboard. All these are aimed at maximum leverage, the key requirement of mechanical brakes.
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