Spinneyhill

Do you mean just the fluid drive unit? The system around the clutch? Or do you mean the whole gearbox, including the fluid drive unit?

Might this engine have been painted assembled in one piece? So the valve covers were engine colour as was the vent tube. The exception is those with a different coloured head. The water outlet would have been engine colour as would the manifolds, but of course the exhaust paint burnt off straight away. The water pump also the same colour, including one side of the gland nut that was "up" when the engine was painted. The sump was engine colour too. This is my understanding of how the 1930 Dodge Brothers 8 engine was painted.

Are there any safety concerns with a high mounted fuel tank like that? If it gets punctured, heaven forefend, fuel will run all over the back of the car.

To add to what Gary says above, hot dip galv. is thickest and generally designed for outdoors use, such as lamp standards, sign gantries, outdoor public furniture, heavy duty fastenings and so on. Zinc plating is thinner and not usually designed for long term outdoors exposure. Nuts bolts and screw are zinc plated so they are not rusty when you buy them - they will last a little while outdoors.

If you would like to post the raised cast numbers on the gearbox case, we can perhaps confirm it is what you say. The Hollander says it should be case T86A-1. It was used in Chrysler 1938 C18 not 7 pass. (case #682982); De Soto '38 not 7 pass.; De Soto '39 (case #679919); Chry '39 C22. Many parts interchange between these models and earlier ones. Tell me which bits you want I might be able to give interchanges.

p.2.

So..... start your own thread then?

I think that is called Age Advanced Attention Deficit Disorder. I've got it too. LoL!

Ask the internet. Yes. Yes. 4.1:1 http://classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=338&year=1937&model=6791

LoL! Whenever I hear "I heard" I expect to find something wrong. Screw type easy. Find one that fits. CAD plating was most likely in those days but hard today so use zinc - CAD is very expensive now and for a small number, not worth it. But what about the head? @RWPerry might give you a good steer on that. Timber. Just find some nice timber that will work. You have some good suggestions above, esp. @RWPerry. Don't waste time and money, just get some good long-lasting pine. Is there a book of specifications used by any AACA or Dodge Brothers or other judges? It may have the information you are looking for.

T86-1P = 1937 gearbox.

Best go back to your source and ask what is different. Not according to the Hollander. Internal parts similar from 1935 on.

The Hollander shows the T86-1A as being used in the 1936 Chrysler Airstream and 1936 De Soto S1. The 1937 Desoto and Chrysler C14 Imp, C16 Roy used case T86-1P. The 1938 -1939 De Soto and Chrysler overdrive case was T86A-1. These all bolt up to the bell housing and some to the universals also. On others switch universals or split joints. Check Trans. lengths carefully. Not sure if all have the brake on them.

Just be careful with treated timber against steel and with fasteners. In this country, treated timber is likely to have a lot of copper in the treatment. You should use SS fasteners and put something between the timber and the steel.

Maybe....

Xclnt. Just think of your lungs when breathing in that wood dust. I doesn't come out much.

Yes. Send a p.m. with your offer. Shipping NZ to USA will be of the order of 35 NZ$ I think.

Thank you Robert. I looked closely under the old masking tape mess and it says STUDEBAKER TYPE C.

I have had this in my collection for many years. I need a little help as to what was it used on please. OD at large end 112 mm or just under 4.5". Overall depth to back is 3" = 76 mm. Attaching bolts are in a more or less vertical plane, above and below the light socket. Bolt spacing 51 mm = 2". There is no impressed light maker's name, only the STUDEBAKER cutout between the lens and the bulb. Thank you for any help you can offer.

Brown paint will work, with an adhesion promoter.

If you use your original muffler with stainless steel pipe, you will have to make sure the muffler is well protected against galvanic corrosion. You will have a lower metal against a higher one in the galvanic series. It is wet in there on startup and short runs. I would expect it will be better to make a SS muffler because you will be doing that before too long anyway. Or just make it all of galvanised steel. It will last years.

Might the shorty tie and tie pin have a short currency in fashion? And the shirt collar?

I would imagine the core or expansion plugs in a 1930 or 31 CD engine would be the same as in he DC Dodge Brothers engine: steel, about 1/8" thick.

MoToR's 1947 may be of help.

I had them on my trail bike in the '70s as "rim locks", to stop the tire coming off or rotating. They weren't tight enough; the front tire rotated (coming down off wheel stands bounding over tussock) and pulled the valve out.