Spinneyhill

Whatever gear oil you use, make sure the copper strip corrosion test result is 1a. Copper will be fairly safe in that oil. If they don't give a result, look for another oil.

This shows what I need: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/336046-1938-desoto-popping-out-of-3rd/

The Hollander says the T86-1P case was used on the Chrysler '37 C14, Imp; C16, Roy. Plus DeSoto '37. The T86-1A case was used on Chryser '36 Airstream and De Soto '36 S1. All with o/d of course.

In my experience, there is not enough experience. You need to drive it more! LoL.

Sure. I don't know how yours mounts. Mine mounts on a plate screwed to the wooden floor board. I made up a new plate to mount the modified system on.

Rather than damaging the pedal by modifying a hole what about rotating the bracket or whatever those holes press onto? I expect it will fall off all the time if you modify it as you suggest. Mine did.

Normally that car would not be my cup of tea - too "modern" - but that one looks very nice. May I also congratulate you on your methodical documentation of what you did and the results. I wish more of us were that clear in our thinking and expression. Well done!

The first Dodge Brothers with mechanical fuel pumps were in 1930, car and truck. The first Plymouth was the 1930 30U, according to the AC fuel pump books.

What a nice car you have. Why did you add zinc to the oil? If you are using a modern oil, you won't need to add it. If you use a CI-4 diesel oil, you definitely don't need it. If you use a synthetic, you don't need to add it.

Xclnt. It is so nice to see a car here with the steering wheel where it should be! All power to your arm with the restoration. Please work fast! I don't have a few years available to follow along.

You have one! I jumps out of gear, which can be fixed.

I think I would stay with Evaporust. Citric acid will attack good metal too.

Have you thought about the remaining strength of the boring bar where you have taken away more than half its cross sectional area at the bit hole? The bar will become quite a bit more elastic in that area.

Sounds to me like they left it in too long and the anti-corrosion additives were worn out. Frankly, I don't believe it. That is why it was developed: copper against metals like solder contains! And they tested the coolant after discovering the damage? The bottle says ALL metals, not older cars.

White tires? Black tires came on the market in 1914? White tires didn't last long.

Who says OAT is harmful in old engines and why? Remember that modern engines are much harder to protect from corrosion because they contain metals right at the top of the galvanic series: Al, Mg for example. We might have Al and perhaps Zn in the cooling system. My understanding is we don't NEED the extra strength of OAT and it won't do any harm. All the bottles I read in the shop say compatible with all metals. Search these fora. There are very many topics on antifreeze.

Light output much less than 2500 lumens at 6 V? That is for 12 V.

Why? It is not much different to an automatic gearbox with a torque converter. There is not much engine braking with one of them either.

sigh. Case number please.

If you put copper in there, near the cast iron block, you had better plan on keeping your anti-corrosion additives up to date in your coolant. Galvanic corrosion will ensue if you don't. Plating the copper will reduce the galvanic corrosion potential.

But is it a Lomax? It has doors and the Lomax does not. Nor do I see the prominent engine sticking out the side.

The yellow badge is an AA badge from the UK or NZ or ?

Thank you. You have the kickdown. I haven't heard an overdrive called a Cruise and Climb OD before, that is all.

Can you explain what you mean by this please. I believe this is the last of the non-kickdown overdrives.

I very impressed that this information has survived with all the turbulence (civil and in government) Hungary must have been through since 1930!