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About 48NWYKR

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  1. I never saw any smoke and it was too dark to see behind me going down the hill... but I'm not surprised you saw the puff of smoke, its going out the tailpipe for sure! Just not enough to see all the time. Spinneyhill suggested a 20W-70... I like that idea What, if any is the difference between a diesel 20W-50 and one made for petrol engines? Would the diesel be more heavy duty and perhaps work better?
  2. Wow... that happened right after the long weekend? NICE! Sounds very much like the motorcycle trips (4 times) I have taken from here to Laguna Seca in Montery. I have done a few of those stops, It will most certainly be on the cards as my family was not with me for those trips!
  3. Wow that does not foster much hope for my multi thousand mile trip...... I might have to sell the house to pay for the fuel! I mentioned that the fuel usage was excessive simply because I drove the car all over the place before pulling it apart and although I don't have exact numbers because the odometer was known to be a bit off I just never used this much fuel traveling around in her before! Vancouver to Seattle, Vancouver to Whistler, Vancouver to Harrison Hot springs... and it never hit me this hard. It has the single barrel carburetor on it so someone already switched it from the double to save fuel... this has to improve! Can you say engine swap? Crate motor LS3 if I win the lottery or I will have to settle for an old Ford inline six with a 5spd manual box....hmmm I'll be able to swap everything to 12v then.....
  4. Hey Carl, I'm trying to heed all the warnings about the heat, Running Penzoil ATF in the gearbox, 85W140 in the diff and steering box and using a very heavy duty grease for everything that moves. I also make sure I keep it greased! After the drive up to Banff in the rain I was lying under the car in the hotel parking lot with my grease gun the next morning making sure its all good! (In my good clothes, much to my wife's dismay I forgot my coveralls) I have not taken the temp after a good run but I think you are on to something, It can't hurt to know how hot it actually gets! Does it have to be INSIDE the sump or would a laser temp from the outside be good enough? All I can say is that its extremely hot when you touch the filter, no way you are holding your hand there for very long. Even without knowing I still think a cooler is a good idea, hear me out, since I can't feed the cooled oil directly into the overhead valve system through the filler cap like on a modern engine I would be taking hot oil from the high pressure side, cooling it and adding it into the sump of hot oil... hopefully cooling the oil in the sump enough to make a difference after if goes through the oil pump. What I'm trying to say is that I dont think it will be that efficient at introducing cool oil directly to moving parts, it would have to go through a bunch of hot parts first, so overall cooler oil but not cool enough to the point where its too cold... or am i over thinking it? My Chrysler guru up here said he had similar oil problems in his old car and running straight 30 made a big difference, his old engine just worked better on un-blended oil. Another hotrod buddy of mine got 2 extra summers out of his Charger switching to straight 30 before having to pull the motor for a rebuild. However, having seen the inside of this motor and making the questionable choice to NOT to rebuild it, knowing that clearances were barely inside spec, factoring in the extra heat of being down south... 20W50 sounds totally reasonable to me... or a 20W40 and a quart of Lucas heavy duty engine oil stabiliser... I'll sleep on it for a bit.
  5. Well here we are... it was a great long weekend! Fun was had and miles were driven! The trip took us from Surrey BC to Banff Alberta and back with a stop in Kamloops for the VCCC's 49th annual Easter Parade. That means a fully loaded car (my wife has a tendency to over-pack) from sea level up to 5250ft and back through the Coquihalla pass AND the historic Rogers pass TWICE. Crawling from light to light in a car parade for miles on end through downtown Kamloops with NO heat problems. Cooling SORTED!!! The trip up was in the rain as expected... 12 hours straight rain... non stop.. not even joking... at least the wipers worked beautifully! After that the sun came out and all those bad feeling disappeared The last stretch saw us battling a very, very strong headwind the entire way from Kamloops home. All in all a resounding success, people were always interested and eager to talk about the car and downright amazed that at 71 she could make that kind of trek! Fuel consumption was abysmal, oil usage was excessive and overall it felt like the car lacked power even though my compression test was considered spec. The slight intermittent stutter at high rpms disappeared after the first 100kms and never returned, possibly some carbon? causing detonation? spur on the points? who knows... Cruising comfortably at around 85km/h, there was also the last 110km from Salmon Arm to Kamloops done at 105 to 110km/h and Hope to Surrey done at 70 to 75km/hr, the car runs happy either way. Top speed was 115km/h, I wanted to see what she would do but my wife started voicing her immense displeasure at my behavior when we hit 115 and I never got to see how fast she would go...maybe next time, without the wife I did find oil pressure was lower after running at 100km/h for a while, possibly getting too hot and too thin? Change the oil? Add in an oil cooler? that should help? Power wise, if you could get it up to 90km/h+ before the hill and you got the rpms up high you would keep your speed and sail up the hills, hit the same hill at anything under 80km/h and you slowed to a relative crawl... I'm talking fully loaded semi truck up the hill type of crawl. As soon as the rpms dropped there was not enough power to wind it up again, downshifting worked... but only till the rpms got so high that you were forced to shift into high again and then the drop in rpm was too much and you stopped speeding up again. More than likely a timing problem. The airbags made the ride super comfy, steering feedback and road holding was very good, no wandering, bouncing or floating all over the place, very solid with a good solid feel. The pick-up truck tires were not as smooth or as a nice set of cruising radials and felt a bit utilitarian, or dare I say "truck like" (No REALLY??) but that was expected and I am willing to put up with it for the durability and strength of the 10ply. The brakes were exemplary and performed better than expected.. coming down the Rogers pass with a 4200lb vehicle is no joke but it worked as well as any modern car! Having said all of this I feel that it was a success all around and I have a very strong feeling that all my fuel and power problems are a direct result of my inexperience at tuning these old cars. Proper dwell angle, total timing and a different kind of oil might improve all of these issues a LOT! More tests and experiments to follow! My wife and kids are totally hooked now and they are already planning the next "test run" to sort things out before we leave on our big adventure! Distance travelled tracked with 2 separate GPS devices. Fuel stops listed below. Odometer Full tank 02151 miles, 0km Trip start 21 litres 02235 miles, 125km 125km 35 litres 02368 miles, 201km 326km 40 litres 02510 miles, 215km 541km 26 litres 02607 miles, 147km 688km 50 litres 02761 miles, 225km 913km 32 litres 02890 miles, 198km 1111km 27 litres. 02990 miles, 147km 1258km 46 litres 03156 miles, 248km 1506km 29 litres 03238 miles, 106km 1612km 30 litres 03355 miles, 175km 1787km 11 liters 03401 miles, 66km 1853km Total. 347 Total liters used. 91.68 Gal US 76.33 Gal UK imperial Avg. Consumption 5.34km/lt 12.50 miles/gallon US 15.08 miles/gallon imperial Oil used 6Lt... 1853km or 1153 actual miles / 1250 indicated miles on the odometer. Incidentally as you can see the odometer OVER reads but the speedometer UNDER reads by about 10 miles/hour. When driving at 55mph indicated on the GPS tracker the speedo only shows 45, but the odometer still adds up to more than you did. It all makes sense when you factor in that the new tires are smaller in OD than the old bias ply tires I had on there. I'm sure this old girl can do better on the fuel numbers, more work needs to be done. As for the 6Lt of oil used, I think switching to a straight SAE30 or maybe a 20W40 or a 20W50 would improve that a lot. The oil was used without any visible smoke coming out of the tailpipe while driving and no it did NOT leak out... no oil leaks detected on this car, even the garage floor is dry! The pictures are still downloading I will post more soon...
  6. Thanks guys, I will let you know how things went when I come back. And since this is BC and it rains pretty much whenever it wants to.... And the old stock wiper arm springs were not really doing much at all, I installed these nifty little buggers to change the stock wiper mounts to something I can mount new style wiper blades on! better springs better blades, I hope I can see clearly now... Its supposed to rain 40mm when we leave in the morning... great start right? first trip buckets of rain, sounds about right as things go in my life!! lol...
  7. Well I spent yesterday calibrating the fuel gauge and today I will grease everything and give it a good "look" over. Thursday we take the old girl to Banff AB for our long weekend test run. Over the mountains and through the rain... hopefully no snow. Roughly 820km each way.. so just over a 1000 miles round trip for you non metric folks If a 1000 miles does not shake out the bugs, noting will....right? I will report back on fuel and oil consumption when I get back. (hopefully we make it back...BCAA is paid for right??)
  8. Hey Mike, I plan on pulling the distributor out again for a quick check but it was rebuilt so I hope its all good in there, as for the carb mine is a single barrel, fixed jet, non adjustable carburetor. The only screw is for the idle mixture and that is set properly and is completely bypassed during driving and should not affect it at all. Its also super clean inside and outside with no built up gunk or varnish, it was rebuilt as well.
  9. So guys, the cooling problems have been solved, but after a few good runs on the highway I have a question.... When scooting down the road at a brisk pace under a heavy foot... basically high rpms - speed does not matter, it can be first gear, or top gear but as soon as the motor hits the upper rpms it develops a slight intermittent stutter.. just these small blips in what is supposed to bee a very smooth run. Its not huge but you can feel and hear the hesitation (very slight but noticeable) AND you can do this in the garage by poking your head under the hood and just manually throttling the car to hold a high rpm.... it will go vrooooooooom blip vroooooooom blip blip vroooooooom blip vroooooooommm and like I said not big, just very small blips.... (you can totally see me at the computer making engine noises right now cant you? lol... I am....) I have new spark plugs / new plug wires / new points / condenser, the timing and points were set as per the book, the vacuum advance does its job, no leaks in the vacuum line, the carburettor has been rebuilt, the float set / new fuel filter / electric fuel pump / new air filter / idle set with a vacuum gauge as per the book ( I get 525 rpm at 20 inches) the valves have been set / exhaust flapper valve works just fine.... new exhaust front to back... I dont know if I'm dealing with a fuel problem.... or a spark/timing problem.... any thoughts? I will tell you that she will do 75 mph though thirsty at that speed I'm sure but she will do it! Your help and insight will be appreciated as always... thank you!
  10. Took the old girl out to set the headlights as per the manual.... do you know how hard it is to find a 35 foot level pad close to a wall where you can park and not be in anyone's way around here?? Got lucky at the local Superstore's loading bay late at night All good now, I can see the road again!
  11. So I have a buddy who is wicked smart and studied fluid dynamics and all that stuff for his engineering degree and I asked him about my cooling system, here is what he had to say... Think about it this way you now have two fans that are dissimilar .... you are essentially trying to operated two pumps in series, I.e. you are trying to pump a pump... therefor the velocity of the air/fluid will not exceed above whichever velocity is the lowest.... because you have such a small gap between the 2 rads, the velocity decrease from v1 to v2 is not enough to allow v1 to create a vacuum and suck the air through the engin rad, hence the velocity increase from v2 to v1 will be minimal and essentially you limit the airflow velocity to v2 for both the rads.... and hence there is not enough air flow through the car rad.... so I would move the AC rad as far forward as possible to create a pressure drop in front of the car rad.... My take-away is that if I had one strong fan to run the entire system I could put them really close, I don't have that so I must put them really far apart so that they can work independently from each other... allowing the car rad to suck in air from around the other one... I will wire the AC rad fan on another switch so that it comes on when the AC is turned on. Test drives have shown the car can sit in traffic or on the highway and stay cool! best temps since I started this entire debacle!
  12. For sure! I am looking on Ebay for a set of older towing mirrors that mount to the fenders or doors! I'll keep you in the loop.
  13. Hey Bob, I found this guy on Ebay, its American made, brand new casting, with a permanently sealed bearing that does not need to be greased. The casting looks to be of real good quality, no rough edges or questionable spots, all nice uniform and smooth. The machined parts are super clean and smooth as well, not rushed, the impeller itself also looks good and the bearing had a solid feel to it. Overall I was pretty impressed with it, it bolted right up and matched the engine perfectly. it seems to do the job quite well. That being said if I have any trouble with it in the next few thousand miles I will let you know. Again time will tell how well it will hold up. Do you have any idea if the extra pulley running the AC compressor will add any strain on it? The stress point is not directly over the bearing like the belt running off the crank and alternator but slightly forward of that... I just wonder if that will affect bearing life or not?
  14. Yeah I did look into getting a new core, but both shops I spoke to including the shop that cleaned and tested my rad said that with the unique shape of this radiator the cost on replacing the core and using the old tanks would just be astronomical, it is slanted on 4 sides and apparently a ton of work. As for the gap between the AC rad and the car's rad its only about 1.5 inches... however if that proves to be a problem on my next test drive I can easily move it further away from the rad, I have another 7 inches I can move it forward if I have to. Time will tell.
  15. Gentlemen, gentlemen.... The epic saga to cool this beast continues. Step one. Ditch the mechanical fan, install 2 electric fans and build a great shroud, the result ; Cools great at idle and in traffic but creates to much restriction on the highway and gets to hot.... Step two. Ditch the shroud and mount the 2 electric fans directly to the radiator, the result ; Works great on the highway but does not cool enough sitting in traffic... Step three.... I s*^t you not.... Ditch the electric fans and rework the AC mount to PUT THE MECHANICAL FAN BACK!!! FML... The result of step three is excellent cooling at idle AND on the highway, BETTER than I ever got with the electric fans. (I did NOT test it with the AC rad in place, I took it out to work on the car.) I guess you can't always improve on a good design. I do think that the fans I bought might have been WAY to small and under-powered. Maybe had I spent a bit more on better fans? Anyway what is done is done now. So I have just come back from the garage and installed the AC rad and one of the electric fans IN-FRONT of the radiator as a pushing fan still hooked up to the temp switch. Idle temps are very good in the garage but I will drive it in traffic soon to see if the extra rad and fan makes things worse. If it does I will need to find another way to mount the AC rad or just spend the $$$ and get a skookum fan... time will tell I guess.