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Spinneyhill

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Everything posted by Spinneyhill

  1. Please post in just one place. See my answer in the Dodge and Dodge Brothers forum.
  2. Are you sure it is a '39 De Soto OD trans? According to the Hollander, "cases of Trans. under our #113 to 126 inclusive bolt up to the bell housings." #113 is the standard trans. used in the De Soto and Dodge and #125 is the OD trans. used in '38 & '39 Chrysler and De Soto. This is a non-kickdown OD - purely centrifugal. What is the case number on the OD trans?
  3. Different rear mudguard or fender though.
  4. Is that stringy stuff plumber's hemp?
  5. The idle pressure is not so important. 10 psi is OK - there is no load. But of course this also means that if you drive off in high gear at low revs, you are compromising the bearings as there is not much pressure. I don't think many manuals give an idle pressure, just a running pressure. I find a 5W-40 semi-synthetic CI-4 oil is good; the cold pressure is not really high and the running pressure is about what they say. Idle is 5 to 10 depending on running time - lower with longer running and higher temperature. My gas gauge earthed through the fuel line. When I put a filter in the line with rubber hose connections, I had to add an earth wire to the tank (under a sender screw).
  6. Chattering clutch often means oil on the clutch plates. Essentially, disassemble and replace.
  7. If that oil has been in there since 1975, it has probably oxidised while sitting there, not to mention whatever use it had before being parked. The anti-oxidants back then were less good than they are today. As well as that, it probably has some sludge from earlier times using oil with not many or no additives, as @Bloo says.
  8. The nearest I can find in The Hollander is 1293153, which was used in 36-37 series 40.
  9. I see you have the nuts on the inside. Should they be there? In my 1939 Studebaker, the liner was fitted in the factory using very long machine screws pushed through from the inside (large washer under the head inside, of course). The person in the engine bay then put the nut on and between them they tightened it. Then the extra length of machine screw was chopped off with wire cutters, just off the nut on the engine side! Fast and scruffy.
  10. I think part of the problem was the alloy they were made from. It was ZAMAC die-cast. Maybe they didn't fully understand the difference between strength and stiffness. It was strong enough, but not stiff enough and deformed under running temperatures and stress. The early bases had quite a light top flange with stiffening ribs underneath - the flange on which the diaphragm and top were attached. The diaphragm must have been somewhat soft too: the base deformed in a wave pattern between the screw holes as the screws were tightened too much and compressed the diaphragm. The stiffening ribs were in the wrong direction to prevent the wave deformation. Also, if the stirrup holding the glass bowl on was tightened too much, it bent the top and it leaked. So they attempted to suck air, at the glass bowl and around the diaphragm. Bent tops and bases can be fixed, gradually, with boiling water, clamps, flat surfaces (e.g. an offcut of steel plate) and patience. If you look at post WWII replacement pumps, even for the very earliest mechanical pumps AC list, you find a much thicker, uniform thickness, upper flange on the base. The metal is also better - Aluminium. The mounting flange is also thicker and stiffer so it stays fully in contact with the block. They are now stiff enough and much less prone to deformation in service. The pump shown above by @BearsFan315 is such a pump with thick upper flange and heavy mounting flange.
  11. The other thing to check on the king pins is end float, or up-down motion. This checks the thrust bearing and its shims. I was rejected a WoF on one. The shim had disintegrated and half gone into the bearing. The test is to just get it high enough to get a jemmie bar under the tire and lever it up. Get your assistant to operate the bar while you look at the knuckle from behind.
  12. AC fuel pump catalogues show the first mech. pumps in 1928: Auburn, Graham-Paige, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Studebaker. The GMC T50 truck was in 1927. Stewart-Warner also made mechanical pumps, very similar to the AC pumps. I believe AC took them to court for patent infringement and won. All SW's dies and stock were sent to AC. Unfortunately, I have not seen a SW catalogue.
  13. His last line says "Send a PM if interested." Did you do that? Hover over his userid and in the popup box you will when he last visited the forum as well as a little envelope in the bottom left. Click on that and send a p.m. as the man asked!
  14. I sent a photo of the chassis to the radio museum. They now think it was made about 1937 by the Howard Radio Company, Chicago, IL.
  15. Thank you for your replies. There is no label of any sort on it, other than handwritten saying positive earth, 6V only, 8 Amps. I sent the photos to radiomuseum.org. They replied that they had not seen anything like that before and guessed it to be about 1940. They also set up a model page at https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/sears_roeb_silvertone_auto_radio_1731.html
  16. Thank you for that. What year is that one? Not sure about Philips screws though!
  17. Thank you for your replies. I have edited the overall depth to 2-3/4", which is more correct!
  18. Have a look at my posts of 3 and 4 November on page 1 of this topic. TEL was purely and only an antiknock additive. Increases in compression ratio followed. Our fuel was similar to yours I think.
  19. You sure about this? It was available for use in fuel in the 1920s and was advertised as Ethyl Gasoline by 1930.
  20. Thank you for any help you can give. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/336162-guidco-tail-light/
  21. Was there a specific application for this GUIDCO tail light? Diameter is 4-5/8", depth is 2-3/4". (depth edited to correct value). Thank you for your help.
  22. I took the top off. The speaker (ROLA model 6H) is on the inside of it. I can see no model number on the radio. There are a couple of stickers, one giving a long list of possible patents that might apply to it and the other about licensing by Hazeltine Corporation for use only in homes. The first label says US Patent Mfg No 1731, the other says just MFG NO 1731. I suppose that is the model, then? That site gives very little on Sears radios. I had been there. Thank you. I think it is aftermarket and the head would mount on the folded back bottom lip of the dash. https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/sears_roeb_1731.html shows a Sears 1731 as a table radio from 1934 - it is in a wooden box.
  23. I have had this Silvertone radio for many years, taking up space. I realise it was a brand sold by Sears Roebuck, but can anyone tell me when and if any particular model of car took them? The control head has always been with it. The ends fit the places on one end that look like control entries. In the back of my mind, I think someone told me it was out of a Ford, but it is so long ago that may be rubbish. Thanks very much for your help.
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