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How about rigging up a steamer in the back yard and direct the steam into the rad for a couple of hours ? Can also use this method to clean out gas tanks.

I replaced the gaskets on the vacuum tank cover. It is installed and the vacuum line is in place. I use a piece of flexible hose connected to the "in" of the vacuum tank and the other end into a plastic gas tank. I use a generous piece of rag to block the mouth of the gas can and bow compressed air into the can. That will push the gas into the vacuum tank . Works for me every time. Once the engine starts and keeps running the vaccum tank will suck the gas out of the gas can.

If you need help on this forum you need to give us more information about the car. Is it a four cylinder to start with and the voltage system . 6 volts ? 12 volts? Make sure the base plate in the distributor is grounded. This is usually done with a fine flexible wire on one end grounded to the plate and the other end to the distributor frame. disconnect the wire from the ignition coil to the distributor and use a jumper from the battery to the in of the distributor and use a test lite to check for fire at the points . If no fire then check for grounding at the insulator at the distributor. If fire checks good in the distributor then check backwards. Wire coming into the coil and going out to the distributor. Check wire from the ignition switch to the coil. Check wire from amater to ignition switch. Normally cars sitting for long, the connections get corroded. So clean and reconnect . Is the engine cranking vigorously ? Check all grounds, remove , clean and reconnect. My advice sounds oversimplistic. But since you said you are a newbi I thought it may be a nice start and help.You did not say if you checked for gas at the carb . Carb should be cleaned. But first you must deal with the ignition .I hope this will help. Harry

pkhammer , I am looking for a Dodge Brothers rim for a 1928 Dodge Senior. (600/650x19) for a wood spokes wheel. The width is 5 inches. I will post a picture of one later. Thank you Harry. 905 889 0621 hsahu8034@gmail.com

For a 1928 Dodge Senior Sedan I need a pair of DRIP RAILS. Any help ? Reply to Harry hsahu8034@gmail.com or 905 889 0621. Thank you. Cheers Harry

Thank you mates. I intend to paint it myself. I am not a painter but I bought a good Italian made paint gun . I have the garage walls to practice on. This is my retirement project. Cheers Harry.

My observation with media blasting is there are still tiny pockets of rust left over, depends on the depth of rust. Try this experiment. After sandblasting wash subject clean with water and then wash with some muriatic acid. The acid will then remove the rust in the tiny pockets. It is possible to do the same with vaporust which is safe. The downside with sandblasting is the lost of metal not to mention making a small hole larger. After using any method to remove heavy rust it makes sense to rinse with vaporrust. Ever tried lemon juice ?

I am about to paint a 1928 Dodge Senior to near original colour green. Is anyone willing to explain to me the the jargon of painters ? 2 stage, dryers thinners and the ratio of mixing the different chemicals ?

Tinindian, you made some good points here. . Test your condenser for leaks. Ground the body to one end of the battery post and the lead to the other post. Use a test light to check for leak on the body. The test light will glow if there is a leak. Use a test light to check for leaks at the points. They could be bouncing on fast speed.. How old is the coil ? Check it on the bench. Try a new coil. The hard starting could be flooding fuel Reason for black smoke. Cheers. Harry in Thornhill.

PFitz, you are right on the ball. You see the engines that uses the overflow tank has an outlet pipe on the filler neck to attach the flex tube to the overflow tank. These engines are designed to run at higher temperatures, sometimes at 180 degrees, therefor the 180 thermostat. Mostly high compression engines like 9 to 1 . As an example my 225 Dodge engine , compression probably 5 to 1, the overflow tank is built in the rad. When I fill the rad and run the engine hot with the cap off the water boils over and flows outside the rad through the filler. When I run the engine with the cap on, the engine gets hot, the extra liquid flows through the overflow tube. At that point the cooling/heating system is leveling itself by throwing the extra fluid out through the overflow tube . So if you like you may catch the overflow. That has to be done with the car stationery. Then the cooling system is just fine. I am subject to correction here . I believe these engines suppose to run at 150 degrees . That what the thermostats are rated at. So check your MOTOR METER when the engine is hot. It should read 150 degrees Cheers. Harry in Thornhill.

This is a little puzzling to me. A pressurerize system is designed for the later high compression engines that generate more heat than the older engines . The pressurized cap has a relief valve to allow extra fluid to escape into the bottle when the engine is hot and allows the liquid to be sucked back into the radiator when the engine cools. The overflow tank must maintain a certain level of fluid at all times. The older rad caps have no such relief valve to allow the liquid to escape when the engine is hot and allow the liquid to be sucked back from the overflow tank. The older radiators have the overflow tank built in. So what is the use of adding an overflow tank or bottle in the first place ? May be you should have the radiator cleaned and checked if the engine is overheating.

I used to be a buyer years ago but dropped them like hot potato when paypal started demanding I pay through them only. They do not hold a gun to my head.

The reason I suggested to use muriatic acid is the quickest penetrating liquid. DO IT OUTSIDE, AWAY FROM OTHER METAL STUFF AND NEVER IN THE GARAGE CONFINES. You may also use the liquid wrench to cut the wire. It will smoke a little but that is ok. Always use some rubber grease when installing tyres. The saws all is a lifesaver, I concur. New rubbers you can buy but hardware sometimes can be impossible to come by. To Staver my friend I removed the wheels, all 4, and preparing to send them to Calimer Wood shop to have the spokes replaced. There are no markings on the rims as to who made them. On the steel fellows all I can find is WHEELCO. INC. DETROIT, MICH. but one of the tyres has Eaton of Canada brand name on it. If you are old enough you will remember Eaton was a mail order store and they sold their brand name tyre by mail. The wheel is 19 inch and the tyre size is 500/650 x 19. The rim is 4 and a half inches in diameter. Probably the same size as used on Graham trucks. I am just guessing. I have in my picture file pictures the profile of the rim .I will look for them and post them on this forum later. My email is hsahu8034@gmail.com Cheers. Enjoy your weekend. Harry .

Quite hilarious clip. Cheers. Harry.

Staver, you have a job on your hands. Let me explain my experience first . The rim on my 1928 Dodge Brothers is somewhat similar to yours except it does not have a locking ring. The wheel was in an accident and the steel rim got twisted , locking the tyre so tight that I could not collapse the rim to remove the tyre. So I foolishly took a hacksaw and cut about 4 inches off the steel rim.After removing the tyre I discovered the rim was twisted So I threw it out. Later on I read in the Hemmings car magazine there is a gentleman down the US who straightens most any type of rim. Tyers are available, but not rims. I have been trying for about 10 years to find an original style rim with no luck. It is hoarding. So the moral of the story is do not under any circumstance damage your steel parts . Accoring to the picture of the wheel there is a lock ring to hold the tyre There are folks out there who will hoarde those rims and will not sell any to you. Fat chance if any will do. My stupid suggestion is use a1 inch paint brush and soak the lock rim with some muriatic acid . Moniter it closely . Tap the ring a few times around to help it get loose. Use a pry bar to remove the ring and quickly wash away the acid with baking soda and water. WARNING : DEFLATE TYRE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE . Such rims were in use about 20 years ago in Canada and few tyre men got killed mostly by the lock rings not seated properly before inflating. Now it is illegal to use that style of rim. The current style is Bud rims with tubeless tyres . So when you are ready to install new tyres make sure the ring and seat are properly machined to match each other. Good luck and have a nice day Cheers. Harry in Thornhill, Ontario.

Check for a leaking vacuum hose between the brake booster and the manifold. Good place to start. Another common cause is the incorrect ignition coil. An underperforming coil will start and idle the engine but will not take the load and stall.

You will definitely have to remove the oil pan and flatten the lumps on the holes . One important point , as one member said, enlarge the holes in the gasket so that the bolts goes through freely. Then wash the threads in the block with brake cleaner thoroughly and blow dry. Wash the bolts also. Use any good thread sealer and it will be fine.

My 1928 Dodge Brothers has all 4 wheel Lockheed hydraulic brakes with 14 inch internal drums all around. The only problem is the master . It is quite heavy to hold up in position with one hand while attempting to bolt it on into the frame. It has a check valve. The wheel cylinders are positioned higher than the master so it is not practical to bleed by gravity. LAST OF THE DODGE BROTHERS. Best machining and fit I have ever seen.

Try www tagmyclassic.com. Phone 905 852 0252. (Bill) Cheers. Harry.

I am 84 years old. I retired 20 years ago as a truck/tractor mechanic. I retired just when the electronic controls stuff was moving in as fuel management in diesel powered tractors. I thought good riddance. But my 1995 Cherokee was starting to break down in hot weather. The auxiliary fan would fail to kick in. I was also getting tired of driving a manual gearbox. I bought a 2017 Colorado V 6. When I look under the bonnet I could not believe my eyes. There is nothing I can do except to add windshield washer fluid and brake fluid. The message on the dash tells me when I need an oil change. I have 5 years warranty for the electronics but I fear if something goes wrong after that what will be the cost of repairs. When I am not around my children will be left to deal with it.

Thank you all, mates. The reason I asked this question is I have a Buick radio with glass valves, all starts with the designation 12, like 12BE etc. and was told by a member of the Antique Radio Society of America who supplied me with a schematic for free that it was made in 1952 and installed in high end Buicks. If my memory serves me right the model # is 961 1333. It is the type with a switch on the floor, just push down and the station will change. I spoke to a radio repair guy near me in Toronto who claims to have been fixing automotive radio all his life and 12 volts were never used at that time . He said 12 volts came on the scene in 1962. Cheers. Have a nice day. Harry.

I am not sure if this is the correct forum but I will ask the question anyway . WHAT WAS THE FIRST YEAR BUICK INTRODUCED THE 12 VOLT SYSTEM IN THEIR CARS ?

The sending unit at the end of the thin long copper tube which is inserted into the water jacket in the head is filled with a special liquid and sealed ( leak proof ). When heated the liquid expands and goes into that curved piece of gizmo in the clock which then tries to straighten out and move the needle upwards. Most likely the gas in the bulb is leaked out. It is impossible to do a home fix on these mechanical gauges. There are folks out there who do such repairs. Moss Motors in California will be able to connect you to their repairers who do the Lucas brand. They all work on the same principle. Cheers and good luck mate.

It is easier to buy/replace a DB with mechanical brakes on the rear wheels only with the factory 4 wheel hydraulic brakes of later models, mate. Harry.

The booster is bolted to the firewall with the master in front. The master has 2 sections for the brake fluid. The proportioning valve has 2 lines, one for the front section and one line to the rear. The diagram is quite clear. You will have to find a hot wire for the proportioning valve. Do not forget you may have to replace the carburetor , to one which has a pipe to source vacuum with a one way valve if there was none before. The booster needs vacuum to operate. Manifold vacuum .To get the brake light to go out you will need help. Get the helper to pump the brakes and hold the pedal down while you try to bleed one or the other lines at the valve slowly until the light goes away. At that point the front and rear brakes are balanced. To know if the vacuum system is working pump the brake and hold the pedal down. Start the engine. The pedal will go down a little.