trini

I will put up with the noise. It will not bother me. In the 1980's the manufacturers used something like plastic or something like that over the camshaft gears and some other gears to reduce rattles. The transport company I worked for used these vans powered by these engines. All these engines had to be pulled apart and the gears replaced with steel ones. The joke is the replacement was readily available which tells me the manufacturers knew of the problem, The plastic overlay were all cracked and falling apart. And, off course, the timing went out. I will replace all gears and chain as a unit with steel . May be fiber ones can be an alternative.

I had a quadrajet running a 327 GM in a 68 Biscane. The best I have ever had. Be mind full of the inlet tube, sometimes get cross threaded when replacing the filter. Take care of the 2 jet needles with the springs. Nice to get a diagram. Watch out for the little gismo that may be installed to keep the engine at fast idle to run the AC.,

Worn Dozers track roller pins are welded with a special arc rod and machined to size. Then they are sent to another place to surface harden. Good machinist can do wonders. I think the rods are called filler rods. I cannot remember the technical designation. There is also a special arc rod for building up broken studs . I saw it work during my working days.

What part of the frame are you looking for ?. Do you have any pieces ? samples? even rotted pieces ?

3/16 thick should be adequate. Use a sharp punch/hole cutter. Try a sample hole and make sure the bolt moves through easily. Cut some threaded bolts heads off and use as dowels in the block to guide the oil pan without fouling or slipping /moving the gasket out of line.

Removing the heater core and boiling it out will help. Heater motors bearings are usually bronze , oilite. Had to be soaked in oil for a long time ,maybe 24 hours. The oil do dry out over a period of time. I think Rusty-Otoole said it right. use synthetic oil and soak the bearing. Starters and generators uses those bushings at the brush ends also.

If I remember correctly mig welding will only weld up to 1/4 inch. Tig welding may be a better choice. I would get a good machine shop to fill braze with bronze and machine it. Bronze wear better than steel. You doubt me ? Try filing bronze. I am inclined to think that part is cast steel. It needs special rod for that purpose. Experience welders know their stuff. The type of welding rod required. NO APPRENTICE WELDER.

Well the guys down below has some pretty good cars.

The rubber seal to fit the channel has a square profile.Such items are common in hardware stores. Give Lowes a visit. You may never know.

Give feltpro and/ or Steele Rubber Products. I know Steeles Rubber Products will send you many small pieces sample for free.. You may hit the jackpot. Steele has sticky backed foam seals to fit. Even household and garage door seals

I am not going to answer your question directly . My past experience may lead to something to think about. I had 68 4 door Biscane with a 327 engine. That heater was always cold even with a 180 thermostat. The fan shroud was missing. After installing a shroud the heat inside was just great. May not apply to your case.

Amazon has oil pan gasket made by "feltpro" . Perhaps you might want to give them a call and inquire. Otherwise go to the manufacturer and plead your case.

leomara,thank you I am going to try them.

Rubber gasket is the way to go. Check with U A P. If no luck go online and look for company that manufacture rubber mats. They will probably have smooth rubber sheets. Also check with Steele Rubber for gasket material.

Best way to drill a small rivet out is to start with a fine drill. and go thicker until a thin film of the rivet remains.. Then use a sharp pointed object to do the rest. A dremel and a steady hand required

Just asking. Is the Corvair the GM car with the engine in the trunk ? BORN TO OVERHEAT.

I am following your thread. I am trying to buy 600/650 tubes and lining for my 1928 D B Senior. The order was placed 6 months ago. I got the tyres but the tubes and flaps are on back order or are having an issue in shipping from overseas. If it comes down to choice of oversize or under size I think one is as bad as the other. The oversize might just be a little better if not too oversize. Cheers

There is no doubt that a 3 wire system Delco alternator is simple and easy to repair and service, If installed in a 1929 DB for example., the idiot light can be eliminated . The ampmeter can be wired and a volt meter added. The problem is to find a 6 volt alternator. Compared to a D C Dynamo the Alternator is king in respect to charging . It also takes a few horses off the engine. It needs no external regulator. If I remember correctly alternator has a limitation to charging on low speeds. Dynamo has very little if ever. The point I am trying to make here these old engines runs at top speed of 2800 RPM.. That is ideal for dynamo , not ideal for alternators. Idle speed on my 28 DB 226 is 450-500 rpm. Idle speed on my 72 MGB is 900 rpm. So I will keep this Generator on my DB. I MUST ADMIT MY NAME IS NOT "NOAH OF ALL" so please feel free to correct me. I am 85 years young and have been a mechanic since the age of 16 and I am still learning. Cheers.

chistech you are correct In some applications the generator works as a starter and generator. Remember to polarize the field

During my working days my buddy mechanic had a similar problem. The ignition coil was one of these naked coil with the lamination exposed. It was bolted onto the block . This car was a Chevette . I took the coil out, cleaned the ground and re bolted.The problem was solved.

This is quite strange or may be not. The old gasoline for those old engines is obsolete. You are dealing with high teck gas today. The engine has to move up to to today's dose of gas. Today's gasoline "explodes" much faster and therefore the engine should be timed at something like 8 degrees BTD. May be I am wrong. To check for worn distributor/chain remove the distributor cap and rock the fan back and forth and look at the rotor for lag.

Not really Oldtech, regardless of the configeration of the field, whether it is DELTA or Y it is really a 3 phase AC "motor"and at each end of the wiring the diodes stops there. When the diodes deteriorate it allow the current to flow in the direction it not suppose to The field will be fried You are correct to say a diode is the culprit.

Clean and re tighten the battery ground, You may be surprised. Wile the engine is running remove the cutout cover. The contacts should kick in. If not, with the engine running use a voltmeter . One end to the GEN output and the other to ground . You should be getting about 6 vols or more. If you are OK at that point Keep tracing forward. If not ground the GEN field wire. If the mechanicalls in the GEN.is in working condition the voltage will shoot up. If not there is problem in the unit itself. ( brushes not seating/ worn/filing from the brushes causing short circuits, and many other things could be wrong.

bullrun, I have seen some Deco alternators wired with hot wire directly feeding the "F" terminal from the 'BAT". The internal voltage regulator takes care of the rest. To test most alternators if it is working , turn the ignition on and put the blade of a screw driver on the bearing. There should be a fairly strong magnetic pull. In Delco alternators there is a small hole near the bearing, Insert a naked wire into hole , press hard in and ground at the same time on the body { with the engine running }. What you are doing is bypassing the regulator. The voltage can shoot up to 18 volts. The alternator should charge. If not it needs brushes. 12 SI is not much different from 10 si. A hot 'body' is an indication current is feeding the coil un impeded, most likely blown diode/diodes. It is a good practice to open the bonnet once in a while and feel the alternator body.

Should not suppliers double check before shipping items ? It is easy to "sorry". Cannot find good help today.