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Everything posted by trini

  1. Tinindian, you made some good points here. . Test your condenser for leaks. Ground the body to one end of the battery post and the lead to the other post. Use a test light to check for leak on the body. The test light will glow if there is a leak. Use a test light to check for leaks at the points. They could be bouncing on fast speed.. How old is the coil ? Check it on the bench. Try a new coil. The hard starting could be flooding fuel Reason for black smoke. Cheers. Harry in Thornhill.
  2. PFitz, you are right on the ball. You see the engines that uses the overflow tank has an outlet pipe on the filler neck to attach the flex tube to the overflow tank. These engines are designed to run at higher temperatures, sometimes at 180 degrees, therefor the 180 thermostat. Mostly high compression engines like 9 to 1 . As an example my 225 Dodge engine , compression probably 5 to 1, the overflow tank is built in the rad. When I fill the rad and run the engine hot with the cap off the water boils over and flows outside the rad through the filler. When I run the engine with the cap on, the engine gets hot, the extra liquid flows through the overflow tube. At that point the cooling/heating system is leveling itself by throwing the extra fluid out through the overflow tube . So if you like you may catch the overflow. That has to be done with the car stationery. Then the cooling system is just fine. I am subject to correction here . I believe these engines suppose to run at 150 degrees . That what the thermostats are rated at. So check your MOTOR METER when the engine is hot. It should read 150 degrees Cheers. Harry in Thornhill.
  3. This is a little puzzling to me. A pressurerize system is designed for the later high compression engines that generate more heat than the older engines . The pressurized cap has a relief valve to allow extra fluid to escape into the bottle when the engine is hot and allows the liquid to be sucked back into the radiator when the engine cools. The overflow tank must maintain a certain level of fluid at all times. The older rad caps have no such relief valve to allow the liquid to escape when the engine is hot and allow the liquid to be sucked back from the overflow tank. The older radiators have the overflow tank built in. So what is the use of adding an overflow tank or bottle in the first place ? May be you should have the radiator cleaned and checked if the engine is overheating.
  4. I used to be a buyer years ago but dropped them like hot potato when paypal started demanding I pay through them only. They do not hold a gun to my head.
  5. The reason I suggested to use muriatic acid is the quickest penetrating liquid. DO IT OUTSIDE, AWAY FROM OTHER METAL STUFF AND NEVER IN THE GARAGE CONFINES. You may also use the liquid wrench to cut the wire. It will smoke a little but that is ok. Always use some rubber grease when installing tyres. The saws all is a lifesaver, I concur. New rubbers you can buy but hardware sometimes can be impossible to come by. To Staver my friend I removed the wheels, all 4, and preparing to send them to Calimer Wood shop to have the spokes replaced. There are no markings on the rims as to who made them. On the steel fellows all I can find is WHEELCO. INC. DETROIT, MICH. but one of the tyres has Eaton of Canada brand name on it. If you are old enough you will remember Eaton was a mail order store and they sold their brand name tyre by mail. The wheel is 19 inch and the tyre size is 500/650 x 19. The rim is 4 and a half inches in diameter. Probably the same size as used on Graham trucks. I am just guessing. I have in my picture file pictures the profile of the rim .I will look for them and post them on this forum later. My email is hsahu8034@gmail.com Cheers. Enjoy your weekend. Harry .
  6. Quite hilarious clip. Cheers. Harry.
  7. Staver, you have a job on your hands. Let me explain my experience first . The rim on my 1928 Dodge Brothers is somewhat similar to yours except it does not have a locking ring. The wheel was in an accident and the steel rim got twisted , locking the tyre so tight that I could not collapse the rim to remove the tyre. So I foolishly took a hacksaw and cut about 4 inches off the steel rim.After removing the tyre I discovered the rim was twisted So I threw it out. Later on I read in the Hemmings car magazine there is a gentleman down the US who straightens most any type of rim. Tyers are available, but not rims. I have been trying for about 10 years to find an original style rim with no luck. It is hoarding. So the moral of the story is do not under any circumstance damage your steel parts . Accoring to the picture of the wheel there is a lock ring to hold the tyre There are folks out there who will hoarde those rims and will not sell any to you. Fat chance if any will do. My stupid suggestion is use a1 inch paint brush and soak the lock rim with some muriatic acid . Moniter it closely . Tap the ring a few times around to help it get loose. Use a pry bar to remove the ring and quickly wash away the acid with baking soda and water. WARNING : DEFLATE TYRE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE . Such rims were in use about 20 years ago in Canada and few tyre men got killed mostly by the lock rings not seated properly before inflating. Now it is illegal to use that style of rim. The current style is Bud rims with tubeless tyres . So when you are ready to install new tyres make sure the ring and seat are properly machined to match each other. Good luck and have a nice day Cheers. Harry in Thornhill, Ontario.
  8. Check for a leaking vacuum hose between the brake booster and the manifold. Good place to start. Another common cause is the incorrect ignition coil. An underperforming coil will start and idle the engine but will not take the load and stall.
  9. You will definitely have to remove the oil pan and flatten the lumps on the holes . One important point , as one member said, enlarge the holes in the gasket so that the bolts goes through freely. Then wash the threads in the block with brake cleaner thoroughly and blow dry. Wash the bolts also. Use any good thread sealer and it will be fine.
  10. My 1928 Dodge Brothers has all 4 wheel Lockheed hydraulic brakes with 14 inch internal drums all around. The only problem is the master . It is quite heavy to hold up in position with one hand while attempting to bolt it on into the frame. It has a check valve. The wheel cylinders are positioned higher than the master so it is not practical to bleed by gravity. LAST OF THE DODGE BROTHERS. Best machining and fit I have ever seen.
  11. Try www tagmyclassic.com. Phone 905 852 0252. (Bill) Cheers. Harry.
  12. I am 84 years old. I retired 20 years ago as a truck/tractor mechanic. I retired just when the electronic controls stuff was moving in as fuel management in diesel powered tractors. I thought good riddance. But my 1995 Cherokee was starting to break down in hot weather. The auxiliary fan would fail to kick in. I was also getting tired of driving a manual gearbox. I bought a 2017 Colorado V 6. When I look under the bonnet I could not believe my eyes. There is nothing I can do except to add windshield washer fluid and brake fluid. The message on the dash tells me when I need an oil change. I have 5 years warranty for the electronics but I fear if something goes wrong after that what will be the cost of repairs. When I am not around my children will be left to deal with it.
  13. Thank you all, mates. The reason I asked this question is I have a Buick radio with glass valves, all starts with the designation 12, like 12BE etc. and was told by a member of the Antique Radio Society of America who supplied me with a schematic for free that it was made in 1952 and installed in high end Buicks. If my memory serves me right the model # is 961 1333. It is the type with a switch on the floor, just push down and the station will change. I spoke to a radio repair guy near me in Toronto who claims to have been fixing automotive radio all his life and 12 volts were never used at that time . He said 12 volts came on the scene in 1962. Cheers. Have a nice day. Harry.
  14. I am not sure if this is the correct forum but I will ask the question anyway . WHAT WAS THE FIRST YEAR BUICK INTRODUCED THE 12 VOLT SYSTEM IN THEIR CARS ?
  15. The sending unit at the end of the thin long copper tube which is inserted into the water jacket in the head is filled with a special liquid and sealed ( leak proof ). When heated the liquid expands and goes into that curved piece of gizmo in the clock which then tries to straighten out and move the needle upwards. Most likely the gas in the bulb is leaked out. It is impossible to do a home fix on these mechanical gauges. There are folks out there who do such repairs. Moss Motors in California will be able to connect you to their repairers who do the Lucas brand. They all work on the same principle. Cheers and good luck mate.
  16. It is easier to buy/replace a DB with mechanical brakes on the rear wheels only with the factory 4 wheel hydraulic brakes of later models, mate. Harry.
  17. The booster is bolted to the firewall with the master in front. The master has 2 sections for the brake fluid. The proportioning valve has 2 lines, one for the front section and one line to the rear. The diagram is quite clear. You will have to find a hot wire for the proportioning valve. Do not forget you may have to replace the carburetor , to one which has a pipe to source vacuum with a one way valve if there was none before. The booster needs vacuum to operate. Manifold vacuum .To get the brake light to go out you will need help. Get the helper to pump the brakes and hold the pedal down while you try to bleed one or the other lines at the valve slowly until the light goes away. At that point the front and rear brakes are balanced. To know if the vacuum system is working pump the brake and hold the pedal down. Start the engine. The pedal will go down a little.
  18. carbking is one of my favourite bloggers. I always learn something from him. Harry.
  19. Pardon my ignorance, I am subject to correction. As far as I can tell, brake cleaners are sort of corrosive. It is good for outside use like cleaning brake shoes and backing plates .The rubber dust shield will distort. I do not want to think of the damage to pistons and rubber parts and seal inside. I have a 1928 Dodge Senior with 4 wheel hydraulic brakes and I am going to flush out the Dot 3, replace it with the new type what ever it is called. The Master cylinder is at chassis level, well below the wheel cylinder level. I am getting a machinist to make me a new solid MC cover, add a pipe in the center , hook a long hose , bring it right up beside the fuel pump. I have a 1 quart capacity oil can built in the 40"s . Fill it with good alcohol, and pump it , opening one bleeder at a time . I am also going to get an extension for the bleeders onto which I will attach flex lines to put into containers to catch the goosh I am 84 years old and still capable of learning something new. I also work alone because I have no help. My wife does not know the difference between a screw driver and a spanner.
  20. Sorry for the lost. I am 84 years and had folks on this forum send me stuff without upfront payment. I paid later. I just kept up the emails. We old folks in this business have something called ethics and honesty. The young ones , and the internet has created a generation of scums
  21. I do not think there are caps for those radiators like the ones on modern cars. There is usually an expansion tank built inside the rad. Myers will sell you a dog bone cap with a hole in the centre in which the temperature gauge is mounted. Without those the radiator will bubble over when hot. The thermostat housing has the grove to install a thermostat but I do not know if they are available. I bought a thermostat from Antique Supplies in California, which is fitted inside the top hose. It works fine, I think at about 50 degrees. Fill the radiator right up and run the engine hot. The excess liquid will flow out through the overflow tube and level itself. Do not buy used thermostat.. Reproductions are cheaper at Meyers and they are guaranteed to work. My friend bought a used one in the flea market for 90 dollars for his Buick and it did not work. I bought one as a gift for 80 dollars from Meyers and could not tell the difference in appearance. He had some choice words for himself. The thermostat will be difficult to install in the top hose so boil the hose for about 15 minutes and quickly push the thermostat while the rubber hot with the wax facing the block about midway the hose.
  22. AE rebuilders restored my generator for me I mean "Restored" like new rewired the entire unit even the tags. I supplied the end plate from Myers. You may find them online or sometimes on this forum.
  23. Hi Ron. I just came back ,7th. July, after a lock down for the last 2 months of my Holiday in Trinidad and Tobago. My rims on the 28 DB is a Kelsey and I suppose the clinchers may be ,too The clinchers have the holes on the sides but I did not know what they were for. The clinchers are locked together with a 1/4 pin. I have 2 of those crank style rim compressor in reasonable shape that I have not used them yet. They do not look too friendly.
  24. Good. I have a 1928 D B myself and decided to replace the horn wire from the button down to the fuse box. I did not have a manual (is there one ?). I am writing this for others who may one day require removing the steering wheel for any reason. Look around the hub under the spokes carefully. There is a disc like sheet metal coming from the underside and is tight fit on to the hub. Use a sharp screw driver( with a sharp square blade) and gently tap around the sheet metal. It will drop down the shaft. That is only a dust shield, Rough handling can distort it. Then you may have to stand on your head and look under the hub to see the screws that holds the assembly and horn button on top. It is possible to pull the horn switch assembly up . Disconnect the wire from the fuse panel and pull the assembly out. The nut in the shaft is then exposed. That part of the shaft that is threaded is thin so be very careful not to distort it. Leave the nut 3/4 quarter ways down to protect the threads. The wooden spokes are embedded in the metal hub so be careful with heat from flame .
  25. I have seen many owners throw away those pesky things and replace them with mechanical wire pull chokes . Those kits were sold at many outlets. I saw one such choke with a steel tube from the exhaust manifold to the spring assembly all blocked with exhaust goosh. That was one of them condemned and replaced with the manual kit.
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