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When I say substantial address I mean an address that can be traced by the issuing bank in case something go wrong. (missing in PO while in transit) The bank will do a tracing and refund money. The Bank of Nova Scotia will not sell me US money order with a name whose address is a PO box #. It needs a house or business address. It also does not recommend sending cash through mail unless the package is registered but again the post office will not register a package with a PO Box number. Yes, the P Office will send a package or letter to a P O Box # but will not register it. That is the difference. Amazon or Federal Express will not deliver to a P O Box. In the past I sent cash in unregistered envelope to US D B members with no issues. I had guys from this club send me parts without payment and I sent money later. I have had bloggers send me parts and would not take money when offered. People are people regardless of country of origin. I am not in any way suggesting people with P O Box numbers are dishonest. But that is the way Canadian institutions do business. Integrity is becoming a scarce commodity these days.

I never worked on Chrysler engines like this. I know in the 29 DB the engine is Continental. Or at least some of them.There may be some made by Chrysler too. I do not know. There are bloggers on this site who may know for sure and will be able to assist you. The main point is engines of any type do have some sort of seal at the back of the main bearing. I have seen oil slingers in that area, and some bearings designed in such a way, allowing the oil to pass the bearing in special groves to allow the oil to flow back into the sump At this point I suggest you check the oil pressure and compare it with specs if you can find it. In my Dodge Senior six the oil pressure after starting is constant 40 lbs regardless of RPM. Worn bearings, rod, main or cam will cause oil pressure to drop,It appears to me the rear main is specially designed as a combination of bearing and seal slinger . Bearings in those days were poured babbit and who knows what. I am hoping you are not looking down the road to a rebuild.

Canadian shopping for parts or anything in the US must be careful sending cash in the mail. THE BANKS IN CANADA WILL NOT ISSUE US MONEY ORDER TO ANY ONE WHO DOES NOT PRESENT A SUBSTANTIAL ADDRESS. ABSOLUTELY NO PO BOX NUMBER. I had the experience 3 days ago. If American vendors want my business please give me a substantial traceable address Thank you.

😐 I am looking for clincher rim to fit a 1928 Dodge Senior 19 inch wood wheel. Tire size is 600/650 x 19 , The width is 4 and a 1/2 inches wide . If measured across diameter it will be 21 inches. It will have 6 lugs. The ones from Graham truck will likely be the same. Please PM me.

If the engine is running and gears not shifting check the motor mount at the transmission /bell housing. It is just 2 pieces of steel stock with a piece of rubber molded .

Try rotating the knob .If it does then look for grub screw holding the the knob on the shaft.

From 29 and up the engines on DB's are mostly continentals. My experience with these engines is there are several types of rear seals Some seals are a piece of fiber like asbestos rope , with one half in a grove in the oil pan and the other half in a grove in the block. It comes in 2 pieces. Sometime it is possible to renew the seals in frame. There is enough space between the tranny and engine . To do that it is necessary to remove the oil pan. push one half of the seal into the block and the other half into the oil pan grove. You may have to loosen the main caps a little and pull down the crank a little so as to remove and install the portion on the block. Press the seal down hard with a wooden hammer handle to pack it tightly , Use a sharp razor blade and trim the ends of the seal about 5 to 6 thou above the metal grove and install.The extra is called "crush" Tighten. After some miles you may have to re tighten. The hole in the clutch housing is primarily to let the engine oil fall to floor, if not the chamber can be filled with oil and get in the clutch plate. Some engines do carry oil slingers but they wear after some miles.

Nice looking cars. Make sure the brakes are working. The master cylinder is a single unit with 1 pipe outlet only. About pouring gasoline in carb is definately a no no . Only a bonehead will do that. Remove the bowl cover and fill/ reinstall. Install the air breather back. The air breather is oil filled. Drag the car outside the building. The basic problem is being too anxious to hear the engine run. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.. There is no short cut to safety. shortcuts ends in tragedy. There is one other important item to check and that is the flexible fuel line near to and below the battery . When I brought home my 41 Buick special (it was running ) I decided to do a cursory check. I touch that fuel line and it fell to pieces. I had to scramble to find a vessel to catch the fuel and plug the line. May be it was the incorrect line in the first place. Prevention is better than cure.

Looks like a grille from a 36 to 37 Plymouth pickup. Yes , Plymouth made a pickup, I think one year only. ( stands to correction )I saw one for sale in Barry, Ontario about 40 years ago.

What is a weep hole ? Are you talking about a breather ? A picture ,if possible will help.

Thank you . I will try some where else. Cheers.

I am still awaiting for your response on the 1928 Dodge rim. 4 1/2 inches wide and 21 ins across. The tire will read 600/650 x 19. It is for a wood spokes wheel Cheers, Harry hsahu8034@gmail.com

The engineers worked out the numbers to make the car safe for driving given the road conditions and traffic at the rime. The only thing I would recomend changing is to update the drive shaft to an open one. My 1928 Dodge Brothers has an open drive line. The diff is the size of a 5 ton truck.

The connector you made looks like from a Ford Model T or of that era. The other half is metal .You may be better off using the connectors from the British cars sold by Moss motors or check with restoration supplies. Good luck.

Thank you Wane . What I like about this 28 Dodge Senior is the engineering and close tollerance of components. Even up to the window glass in frames. They cannot be interchanged from Right to Left. The engine crankshaft has no counter weights yet it runs smooth.The clutch is designed like a clutch from a 13 speed Spicer transmission from a big transport rig. Design is ahead of its time. 14 inch drum hydraulic brakes. Snubber shocks. Few pieces of lumber. But you are quite right about it is not going to be a 6 figure car. That is OK. It is not about money. Around 1976 I was looking at a T V program . The subject was a what next after retirement ? Now I am 85 1/2 years and still physically fit. Working on this project is my hobby. The side effect in this hobby is not cheap. Be prepared to spend and do it right. It will not be for sale. The sense of enjoyment in restoring and driving cannot be measured in dollars. I own a piece of history. This is a ground up restoration. I have been a transport mechanic all my life. I will keep you all in touch with progress. Cheers

Simple. release the air from the trailer tyres and pump up the Buick Tyres. Do you remember the comic strip LIL ABNER ? Cousin Weak eyes was washing the baby in the kitchen sink when the baby' 2 legs went down the 'Y' pipe and could not come out. There were all kind of suggestions. None was feasible because the baby could be hurt. So the maths professor was called. He worked out an algebra equation. And BINGO . the baby came out. Cheers. Have a nice day.

There are numerous machine shops that specialise in gear cutting. It is a highly skilled area. It may be better to get some one to do it. From what I know the machinist used a special steel ( soft ) enough to work but can be hardened as required for its use. The British used a system called sintered for their bicycle bearing components. Over hardening can pose a bigger problem. Most moving parts are surface hardened ( bearing ) edinmass is right. Leave it to the experts.

Thank you very much 2251DB. Good advice.In that case Canadian cedar may also be a good choice. It is a stable lumber. I will keep you posted. Cheers.

I had 2 original glass . No problem there. Look at the underside of the metal channel into which the glass is set in. One inch from the end there is a hole. That hole is opposite, away from the riser handle, makes it the leading edge while cranking up. In mine all the glass height in that area are 1/2 inch shorter in height . So the glass is definitely not square. The narrow side makes it the leading edge. Away from the crank. I tried rocking the glass back and forth while working the crank handle( the tip of my Snapon needle nose) .It broke . While trying to pull out the channel run which was stuck so hard I lost patience. I thought there was a little Gremlin in there holding it back so I gave him a good description of his mother's anatomy. It did not work. So on Monday I will be phoning Moss Motors and order 2 channel runs from a 1972 M G B roadster. It is pure smooth felt. I recently installed a set in my MGB. I will keep you fellows posted. Cheers

Thank you BHWINCVAP, same problem I am Having , by working the riser up and down the tip of my Snapon needle nose pliers broke . Was using it to turn the stub. If push comes to shub I may have to grind the edges of the glass.You probably noticed the glasses are narrow at the top by 1/2 inch. I recently replaced the channels run on my 72 MGB. roadster and they looks pretty close. I think I will try that. Not expensive from Moss.

Thank you jpage, I will keep you posted. Cheers.

The driver side of the running board is original. It has ribs to keep it firm. But the one fabricated for the passenger side has no ribs and is sagging in the center along the leanght. Made of 18 gauge steel. I find it difficult to find an original replacement. Is it alright to use 1 inch hard wood board for both left and right and cover them with rubber ? I like to hear from fellow enthusiast

I have all 6 window glasses , rear window glass and windshield replaced. The problem I am having is after installing channel run on one side in the window I am have trouble installing the channel run on the other side.The window run I bought is from Myers Early Dodge. Great stuff. But center is too thick so it is binding on the glass and the grove . I installed one side and the other side went in halfway and will not go down and cannot come back up. Stuck halfway for good. I applied a bit of white grease before trying to install but no luck. I had to break the channel run in pieces and in the process cracked the glass. I have a choice and that is to grind the glass at least a 1/8 on both sides along the channels if I am to use this particular Whisken) run The question is can anybody tell me what channel run will work without shaving the glass? Steele has about 4 different kinds of channel run but which is the appropriate one?

I was just looking at a video from Steele Rubber products. The gentleman was showing in detail how to replace the rubbers on a vent window. The rubbers are supplied by Steele Rubber Products are fairly inexpensive.

try Myers early dodge.