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carbking is one of my favourite bloggers. I always learn something from him. Harry.

Pardon my ignorance, I am subject to correction. As far as I can tell, brake cleaners are sort of corrosive. It is good for outside use like cleaning brake shoes and backing plates .The rubber dust shield will distort. I do not want to think of the damage to pistons and rubber parts and seal inside. I have a 1928 Dodge Senior with 4 wheel hydraulic brakes and I am going to flush out the Dot 3, replace it with the new type what ever it is called. The Master cylinder is at chassis level, well below the wheel cylinder level. I am getting a machinist to make me a new solid MC cover, add a pipe in the center , hook a long hose , bring it right up beside the fuel pump. I have a 1 quart capacity oil can built in the 40"s . Fill it with good alcohol, and pump it , opening one bleeder at a time . I am also going to get an extension for the bleeders onto which I will attach flex lines to put into containers to catch the goosh I am 84 years old and still capable of learning something new. I also work alone because I have no help. My wife does not know the difference between a screw driver and a spanner.

Sorry for the lost. I am 84 years and had folks on this forum send me stuff without upfront payment. I paid later. I just kept up the emails. We old folks in this business have something called ethics and honesty. The young ones , and the internet has created a generation of scums

I do not think there are caps for those radiators like the ones on modern cars. There is usually an expansion tank built inside the rad. Myers will sell you a dog bone cap with a hole in the centre in which the temperature gauge is mounted. Without those the radiator will bubble over when hot. The thermostat housing has the grove to install a thermostat but I do not know if they are available. I bought a thermostat from Antique Supplies in California, which is fitted inside the top hose. It works fine, I think at about 50 degrees. Fill the radiator right up and run the engine hot. The excess liquid will flow out through the overflow tube and level itself. Do not buy used thermostat.. Reproductions are cheaper at Meyers and they are guaranteed to work. My friend bought a used one in the flea market for 90 dollars for his Buick and it did not work. I bought one as a gift for 80 dollars from Meyers and could not tell the difference in appearance. He had some choice words for himself. The thermostat will be difficult to install in the top hose so boil the hose for about 15 minutes and quickly push the thermostat while the rubber hot with the wax facing the block about midway the hose.

AE rebuilders restored my generator for me I mean "Restored" like new rewired the entire unit even the tags. I supplied the end plate from Myers. You may find them online or sometimes on this forum.

Hi Ron. I just came back ,7th. July, after a lock down for the last 2 months of my Holiday in Trinidad and Tobago. My rims on the 28 DB is a Kelsey and I suppose the clinchers may be ,too The clinchers have the holes on the sides but I did not know what they were for. The clinchers are locked together with a 1/4 pin. I have 2 of those crank style rim compressor in reasonable shape that I have not used them yet. They do not look too friendly.

Good. I have a 1928 D B myself and decided to replace the horn wire from the button down to the fuse box. I did not have a manual (is there one ?). I am writing this for others who may one day require removing the steering wheel for any reason. Look around the hub under the spokes carefully. There is a disc like sheet metal coming from the underside and is tight fit on to the hub. Use a sharp screw driver( with a sharp square blade) and gently tap around the sheet metal. It will drop down the shaft. That is only a dust shield, Rough handling can distort it. Then you may have to stand on your head and look under the hub to see the screws that holds the assembly and horn button on top. It is possible to pull the horn switch assembly up . Disconnect the wire from the fuse panel and pull the assembly out. The nut in the shaft is then exposed. That part of the shaft that is threaded is thin so be very careful not to distort it. Leave the nut 3/4 quarter ways down to protect the threads. The wooden spokes are embedded in the metal hub so be careful with heat from flame .

I have seen many owners throw away those pesky things and replace them with mechanical wire pull chokes . Those kits were sold at many outlets. I saw one such choke with a steel tube from the exhaust manifold to the spring assembly all blocked with exhaust goosh. That was one of them condemned and replaced with the manual kit.

Smacking the starter to get it to operate is usually the solenoid problem. Worn internals terminals. In the old days a temporary relief was to loosen the nut on the terminal and turn 180 degrees around . Low spots on comutator is not uncommon and must be cut on a lathe. There is something we tend to forget . Especially on 6 volts starter with low current/voltage the heat generated melts the solder on the terminals wherever there is solder joint. A common place is where the coil wire is soldered onto the comutator . Another area is the buildup ground brush dust causes shorts.

How about making them yourself ? The "dot" like terminal on the wire is simple to make. Use a tack nail and sink the sharp end into the cable and solder. Most times one "dot" is higher than the other and cause irregular lighting. Clean "dots" and put on fresh solder, Use fine electrical solder and a solder gun. I repaired mine.

These are the original lumber, 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior I suspect made by Bud. The main sills on the frame are definitely white Maple. The curved pieces at the tub area looks like maple but could be ash and has changed colour. The roof rails are definite oak. the cross rails onto which the chicken wire are nailed definitely oak. There were 5 of them and they all changed shape. I am replacing them with maple. The roof side frame is certainly oak and painted black. Oak smell is especially when wet. What I am finding out is that no body on this forum were able to tell me how to dismantle this four door saloon. Now I am going to document my experience I am leaving tonight for vacation and will be back in April 2020.

There may be a blown gasket or cracked head. Save every fastner because the threads on those engines are not standard, especially head bots.

Part of my job working for a large transport company was to assist the electrician repair starters and generators. The alternators for the Cadillac , if I remember , were designated 25 something and produced 90 amp . The common 10S1 was 37 amps The charging voltage were about 14 .5 average , minus or plus There was tester powered by a 3 HP 3 phase motor to turn the alternator. I cranked up the carbon pile to reach 90 amp and the electric motor would stall. It had to be held there for not more than 15 seconds. It takes about 3 horses to run 90 amp alternators.

Check with a plumbing outlet (not Home depot) There is a grey sticky material in a roll like tape that is used to seal kitchen sinks on a counter top and can be used for sealing most things . Check them out. It is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 thick . A paper between the coils to prevent sticking to itself. Ford has a grey sticky stuff like the thickness of a AC welding rod but not sold to the public . It was used in factories only and workers would sometimes accidently on purpose put some in their pockets and bring home.

Hello TIMURF will you mind PM me please. I am coming up with the same question. I am looking for the aluminiun drip rail for my 28 Dodge Senior . I sought information on this forum for replacement rails and no body was able to tell me where to find such part. That is amazing. The rails on my car was nailed with 1 1/2 inch thin headless nails into oak lumber and by removing the nails the soft rail got twisted up. Harry in Thornhill , Ontario

Bud Tierney, you are absolutely correct. Not enough information. If the engine is used regularly and the oil and water level monitored, lets us say every x miles , and the oil level rises and the water level drops then there is an equation to work with.

Most good battery charges have a 6 volts mode in addition to 12 volts with timers Choose the 6 volt mode even to fast charge the 6 volts battery. Red cable for positive post. (fat post) and black cable for negative post .NO DAMAGE.

Laughing Cayote, I do not think you will like it in Florida unless you have lots of money to pay electricity bills. Mosquitos the year round and hot and damp. There is a mosquito screen behind almost every garage door. Here in Canada by the middle of March the weather starts to break 10 Degrees C is great.

Recently I saw a 1917 Buick McLaughlin with an OHV. engine Under the bonnet was an oilcan. Every day before stating the driver had to oil the valve train. Same with the Chevrolet. In sometime 1980 Oldsmobile developed a diesel engine with 20:1 ratio . Talk about trouble.

Nothing is wrong with your dash clock gauge. The bulb that goes into the head developed a leak and lost it's goosh. They are similar to Lucas on most British cars. There is company in N.E. US. who does work for all British gauges . PHONE CUSTOMER SERVICES .800 689 9313, Moss Motors. They will connect you. They might be able to repair yours.

I do not know what kind of charging system there in in the 1966 Pontiac but the one thing I detest most is a flat battery and no start. With a flat battery charged by generator , push the car and let the clutch out. With an alternator, no dice. It needs a little bit of juice to excite the field.

NO. I will not try that. Your car has electrical gauges powered by 6 volts and is all tied in together. By using a 12 volt battery even briefly the gauges might damage. IT IS DIFFICULT ENOUGH TO FIND REPLACEMENT FOR SIX VOLTS GAUGES. Six volt system has always been a problem, mostly battery cables and ground. Sometimes it might be helpful to just add a second ground cable from starter mounting bolt to frame.

I owned a 1928 Chevrolet (National) and had lots of spare parts for earlier models too. Earlier than 1928 had no valve covers, just a wad of felt on the valve train. Had to use an oil can to pour oil every time before starting for the day. There was a dipper bolted to the bearing cap to splash oil on to the wall of the cylinder. The 1928 has a valve cover . Uses 2 valve train bolts to keep it in place. The edges are sharp and no provision for gaskets. The head bolts have , I am not sure now, half inch or seven sixteen bolts but the threads were all by itself . Standard bolt thread will not work. I think that was made before standardiseation of machine thread was introduced. The engine had a water pump but I cannot remember any thermostat. To keep the engine oil from freezing in winter, an old gentleman told me he used a kerosene lamp lighted under the oil pan.

Bloo, You are right, but the car in question is a 1970 Cadillac. If it is a change over period then it might still have the outside regulator. The easiest thing to do is to install one with internal regulator and leave the old regulator in place just for show. The "BAT" wire on the regulator could connect on the "BAT" terminal on the alternator and the field wire could be attached to the "F" terminal on the alternator. Save yourself a lot of headache today and for the future. The "I" terminal is probably connected to the "BAT" terminal somewhere and is controlled by the ignition key. When the key is turned "ON" the dash gauge shows battery voltage. THIS IS JUST MY THOUGHT. Old style housing is smooth outside and the new style has lots of ridges on the outside. I donot have my camera to show a picture of the difference. By the way I would just like to mention to check if the new style alternator is charging touch a screwdriver blade on the bearing button with the engine running . There will bea strong magnetic pull. CHEERS.

The fact that that you have to knock the starter to work is an indication there is a short inside. If the starter is good it will start with a battery charger hooked up to the onboard battery. Number 1, always check for clean ground battery wire first. It seems your starter guy did a poor job. Remove the starter and disassemble , wash the brush plate and brushes clean with varsol and blow dry, wash the armature and use a fine sand paper to sand the commutator smooth or better to machine in a lathe. Replace the brushes if worn too low or otherwise just dress them with sand paper.There will be two brushes riveted to the plate, the bushing on the plate may be worn. check for excessive wear and replace. Check the bushing at the back of the armature for excessive wear and replace. The drive clutch assembly seldom goes bad. Some solenoids can be taken apart ,washed and re assembled. If the terminals of the solenoid is worn (usually only one does)loosen the locknut and turn 180 degrees around to the good side. reverse the disc that contact the terminals. Wash the field coil and check for damage insulator. USE ENGINE OIL OR WHITE GREASE FOR ASSEMBLY. After assembling use a wire hook and gently pull the brushes to make sure they move up and down without sticking.