DFeeney

You will find the transmission will be heavy and your will be in a confined space. Once again you can find a used transmission jack on craigslist. or marketplace in the $50. Dollar range. You could take off the transmission shifter handle or top plate to make the package smaller.

How Lucky can "One Man" get.

A person from Canada called me last week with a 1925 Studebaker transmission for sale. These have a hydraulic pump mounted on the rear of the transmission that the brake rods go to.

Be careful not to damage the old gasket when removing the head as you might need to use it one more time. With the Head off you can crank the engine over and see if the valves go up and down with full motion. As mentioned ,the valve stems hang up in the guides. Once they are all working I would put a lot of oil on the top of the piston, top rings. The oil will temporary seal the rings. I would reassemble the head with the same gasket and redo the compression test. If it is still low or uneven a valve job will be in order. You and replace the rings and do a valve job for not much money if you do the work.

I would also buy a engine sling. This is a horizontal bar with a hook and 4 chains ( two on each end) that you can attach to each corner of the engine. The horizontal bar has a lead screw on it which by turning you can change the point of balance. This and a "Cherry Picker" would be a good investment. You can find several cherry pickers on facebook market price at a good price.

In short , I would remove the hood, radiator shell and radiator and remove the engine/trans as a unit. While the engine is being repaired you could clean everything up in the engine area.

The Firelands was a section of land , I believe from the Connecticut Western Reserve. In the founding days, Connecticut reached across what is now Northern Ohio. This area was called the Western Reserve of Connecticut. Several things still carry this name, such as Case Western Reserve. During the revolutionary war a large number of Loyalist were burned out by the Tories. After the war land was awarded to the victims and this section was called the "Firelands"

It looks like you have mastered the "Kingpin" replacement. Pat yourself on the back as that is not a easy task.

Overland ?

I admire your dedication. This was not a project for the "Faint-Hearted". Keep us posted on additional progress.

Being a member of this forum has exposed me to great before and after projects. It has helped me to raise my own level of work. I still have a long way to go but making progress.

You will find online great Hydra Matic service and repair manuals at a reasonable cost. The more you know the better your outcome will be.

The only trouble I have being a member or this forum is the fear I will learn so much my Head will crack open. The last few days while shaving I have noticed new lines on my face, Tread careful my friend,

I have a excellent Owners manual for sale at $35. plus the ride. Think Spring, Don in central Ohio 740-816-4284

Have you posted this on the Studebaker page?

As you mentioned , focus on your engine and get it running. do a compression/ leak down test and decide what needs to be done. You can do a valve job and replace the piston/rings for not a whole lot of money. These are nice cars when running correctly. Good Luck.

Hello, I am new to the "Hudson World" and building a 20's all Hudson fair grounds racer similar to the Ira Vail car. What year did the dual carb manifold first appear and will it fit a 1929 Hudson F-head 6? thanks in advance. Think Spring, Don in central Ohio.

They strike me as a clamp that could hold a leather strap to keep a roadster or touring top wound up tight when the top is open.

These engines are very hard to find.

I have a car with a free wheeling transmission. It has a 2 position lever on the side of the case. . One way is free wheeling, the other way is non free wheeling. When I purchased the car 40 years ago a strap had added to lock the lever in the non free wheeling position . I have never moved it and works like a non free wheeling transmission. Yours should work the same way.

On my 1931 Chrysler CD-8 car I bought a late model Ford truck condenser new for $7. on line. I added a 1' wire to the condenser ground frame and bolted the other end of it to the block. The incoming wire of the condenser I bolted to junction where the wire from the coil attaches to the distributor body. I drove the car all summer like this. It's a cheap easy way to eliminate a condenser problem. Also make sure the points have continuity when closed as they can get filmed over. Keep us posted.

I don't believe this will be a expensive fix. However you need to become familiar with how a point-ignition system works. Once you understand the basics you will be able to trouble shoot it with a $10. test light. I would unhook the wire going from the coil to the distributor and test it for battery voltage. If voltage is present put the wire back on. Take the wire from the coil to the center of the distributor cap off and hold it about 1/4" from the block and have someone crank the engine over. A blue spark should jump each time the points open and close. If you have this spark your system is working. If not get back on line and we can narrow down what to do next. If a person is willing to learn the basics they can become "The King of Spark"

You are now moving forward. That's the best any of us can do. Time and Patience is the word.

I recently saw one of these carbs on market place.

Best wishes to John, He has done quality work for me in the past.