Mark Wetherbee

We lived near Altoona for a few years in the late 90’s and between Altoona, Holidaysburg, Frankstown, and Cresson there was literally tons of PRR stuff available at every estate sale from early cast iron signs to coal stoves with the PRR logo and tools, lamps, etc. I moved a lot from there to Hershey and made quite a bit of hobby money from it. One of my contract engineering jobs was in an old PRR shop and there was still lots of tools in the shop, and drafting equipment for track layout in the office - I don’t doubt it’s still there if that plant hasn’t closed.

When I was in Engineering school one professor, when talking about stress fracture and failure, would remind everyone that “An EXPERT is someone who knows more and more about less and less until he knows positively everything about absolutely nothing” I think about this every time an “EXPERT” is involved with anything…

It looks like it might freewheel until you engage the pins on the outside of the hub?? Or no? With the step chain I’m going to say it is a little air pump that can be engaged with a bicycle chain, but only guessing…

I’m thinking bow of a boat myself… it would be the modern equivalent for a figurehead.

You will find a sub-forum of this one for buying and selling anything that falls under this category. Likewise there’s a buy-sell sub-forum under just about every car make forums for those kinds of items. You could also sell it in whole to one of several literature dealers who visit here. Keiser posted a link to one of the dealers I was thinking of, and he would be a great person to get in touch with. Hint >>POST GOOD PICTURES AND DESCRIPTIONS<< Good luck!

I took Jon’s advice of the ultrasonic cleaning for the Stromburg UU2 in my Pierce and it took a couple rounds in his ultra top secret solution (Dawn ultra that is) and it was apart with absolutely no issues. Every port plug, screw and jet came out and the interior ports were easy to clean using a torch tip cleaner. I don’t know if I would have had the nerves to use heat but after the success I had with Jon’s advice I would have done it had the cleaner not done the trick as well… Thank you again for your taking the time to post such a detailed sequence for these fragile carburetors.

One of my oldest memories is being in a junkyard at 3 or 4 years old while dad pulled seats out of a school bus to put in the back of a Seagrave fire truck he bought. At some point I wandered off and found a small car to play in, years later dad said it was a Triumph TR3 but all I remember was if I turned the key it would hop forward a few feet, and when I left off it would roll back into its old spot. Before we get into some child endangerment conversations, this was the 1960’s and Mom was an RN - dad’s only time to get to the salvage yards without closing his shop was on weekends, so he was saddled with my two brothers and I. We never complained, they were adventurous days that might have ended with a tetanus shot at the very worst… We found that Seagrave plaque in dad’s estate and I now have it.

1926-27 going on the large break drums on the rear end…

There’s a guy in the PAS looking for the 1931 Pierce Arrow lenses, which are a 9-3/4” diameter convex Tilt-Ray Guide lenses. If you have any please let me know and I’ll pass it along. Thank you!

Don’t know if it is the correct hubcap wrench or not, but this is on eBay… It is not mine.

Guess I have been lucky so far in that both Maine and North Carolina have some very lenient laws regarding the YOM plates. In both states they allow you to put any pair of matching year plates on your vehicle provided that you keep the actual registration plate available for any persons inspection on request. So in effect there’s no correlation between the actual plate number and your car when you put YOM plates on! I expect that at some point this law will be so abused that it changes, but for the meantime, I’ll keep my new plate available and under my front seat…

If it seems like BS, or just too good to be true… RUN! I agree, if you can send your own mechanic it might be legitimate, but I smell A scammer without even looking at the website. It’s amazing how the internet has made it so much easier to get taken in.

But here’s the rub, why should I give you the information of cars I’ve known about for 20-30 years and spent the last 5 trying to buy??? The point is that you need to be doing something other than asking us to share our finds and then BS’ing us - it gets old after the first time. Go get something, or at least join a few clubs and get acquainted with other people who are offering advice and we MIGHT take you seriously… Honestly, Ed even offered to let you drive a few different cars to get an idea of what you might want to focus on, something I wouldn’t even let my own brother do. I don’t think you have any idea how rare an offer like that is…

It’s still going to depend on your budget… I know of a 1908 S in original condition with lots of extra parts but the buy in is something near 35k, in the same barn is an unrestored 14 T with all its original paperwork and history (Miss. Vicory for the people who remember Bill Eads) but that might be in the 16-18k ballpark… You can find later T’s and they are still a lot of fun for less money than anything brass. Or if you don’t mind big boxy 20’s sedans they are very reasonably priced and can yield a lot of smile value. If you are mechanically inclined there’s a ton of deals that need work, and remember that the worst thing you can buy is a cheap car, you will pay for it at some time. I bought my Pierce as a running driving car and put a little over 10k into making it actually run. New brakes, wiring, pistons, rods, etc etc etc - heck there’s $2500 in tires alone! It adds up fast… Here’s a Franklin on Facebook that could be a great car if you want to do a little work, just remember what I just said above

And 1917 at the early end as it has the 17 up style radiator as opposed to brass in 16.

Did you get that from someone like Don Axlerod? It looks like it was written as a joke and nothing more than that…

If they go to sell it, it’s going to be a big disappointment on value. I don’t think it’s beyond saving so long as the damp environment hasn’t left some more substantial hidden damage but reading between the lines it’s never going to be sold because of the perception of extreme value to the original family. As for the article, whoever wrote it should stick with post war cars… and likely post Desert Storm!

I thought that too, and I had a few fall off after a couple years in the sun…

This is the style key for that switch.

The maker of the ignition switch is supposed to read CLUM - I hate spellcheck…

Club switch for a Dodge Brothers going on the key number and shape. I can’t make out the number but the DB is visible. I’m no good on a year but it should be easier free there

Agree, they are nearly impossible to determine a value without having seen prior ones selling. An auction is your best bet and if eBay is out try listing it with one of the Automobillia auction houses. Matthew’s, check the oil, etc. There is someone who would covet them, finding that person is the hard part of selling them. I will admit they are very cool, too bad you don’t have the Mustang version as I bet it would be the most popular from the era…

Definitely an American emblem, Canadian cars were built in Toronto Canada and marked such. The website is a little misleading as the text appears to be from the photo above it…

I reported that post before Peter replied. I felt was way out of line and rather than commenting on it (which incidentally would have given me a suspension I’m sure). Peter handled it beautifully! So Thank you Peter, you are doing fantastic! As for driving someone crazy, for most of us it’s a short trip over all too familiar roads…

I’m going to assume it is the late, and smallest version for the radiator emblem, which is listed as having been used from 1919-1926 according to the best online reference for American emblems. It’s on the common side but still a very nice emblem… http://www.americanautoemblems.com/search/label/OVERLAND?m=0