Mark Wetherbee

Thank you for the replies, I might have read the description better before jumping but… Im sure someone will need a driver quality cap and maybe I’ll get lucky and find a swap for the one I need.

I had been looking for a correct gas cap for my 31 Model 43 and found this one on eBay. I jumped on it now realizing it isn’t the correct one for me as David kindly posted in the radiator cap thread. So this is definitely a gas cap and not the radiator cap because it is vented, and it is the same 4-1/2” diameter as the radiator cap but with a different lower flange shape. Can anyone confirm which year cap it is??? Also if anyone has a correct 31 gas cap they would be interested in trading please let me know! Thanks, Mark

Thank you David - That looks a lot better… I’m going to start a different thread as not to pollute this one more.

I am always watching eBay for the caps, and I am pretty sure I just scored the right gas cap for my 31 but have asked David to confirm it for me. That said, the only other cap that’s turned up in the last year is a drilled one missing the bayonet and gasket disc which is extremely overpriced for what it is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234870579655?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ine9QBNLQZW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pnvMnNjyRmG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Likely the 120 is thread diameter not the octagon measurement.

I did a short contract engineering job in a lead foundry a very long time ago and they had some really unique spark plugs for the gas burners under the crucible - many with very long electrodes to get well out of the heat.

Dodge with an aftermarket bumper made by Stewart I believe.

It’s the early version of the goose mascot, the later one was far more detailed and better looking IMO

Hi Terry, It was definitely a Pure Oil Company station from the 30’s and as you said very similar to the one in my picture which is located in Wilmington NC.

Here’s one to make you all cry… This 1914 T has all of the original paperwork from new and was in absolutely fantastic condition when my dad passed away but since that time has not been treated well by my brother… If anyone remembers Bill Eads who sold T parts out of Wilmington NC as the company T-Nuts, this was his car he called Miss Vickery. She was a HPOF car with a lot of transitional part features that was built late in the 1914 model year and was proof that Ford used a number of “floor sweepings” instead of solid time changes. Specifically the front fenders are 1915 style mounted with the 1914 style brackets.

Having spent a couple weeks in cell phone purgatory (very rural Tennessee) I came back to a treat! Some very wonderful cars here, thank you for the thread, pictures, and stories! Unrestored cars have always been my favorites to see, and although I have shown it off too many times here here is my 31 Model 43 Pierce. It was purchased off eBay and took two years to recondition its engine but it is a joy to drive. One of my previous cars was the 29 Model A Ford which had a brush paint job from the 50’s and a new top but everything else was not messed with. The car ran but was so worn out that when I had the engine done it went from a standard bore to .120 over to get all four perfect again…

The dogbone is an aftermarket item and allows you to add a monogram shield or keep the one you see. The main downside is that they were made during the time that the pot-metal wasn’t well refined and it developed a serious problem of expansion to the point where it disintegrates.

Very nice collection, but you need a few Vinegar Valentines too… I have a couple somewhere but I don’t know which box they are still in so I clipped these pictures from eBay for the discussion - (moving at Christmas is a very bad idea, trust me…)

Saw this on eBay, I wonder if the delco piece above was from a similar item?? Delco made a great number of home generating units as well as the numerous automotive items. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115667384552?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5l1CdXx7TBC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pnvMnNjyRmG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Try to find someone who has a mid 20’s Studebaker Special Six… It looks like it but I don’t remember the rim size.

Sold locally!

Aluminum will expand faster than the steel hub so heat is a definite possibility. I agree that you start with a hair dryer and if that does not work try a paint stripping gun on low. Anything higher might cause damage… good luck!

Is he standing on top of a Patterson? That poor car needs a good home…

2007 Wells-Cargo 24x7 enclosed car trailer 10,000 axle weight located in Sneads Ferry NC (Build date 11/27/2007 and titled as a 2008) Wells Cargo 24’x7’x6.5’ high enclosed car trailer with 10,000 pound GAWR rating. I bought this for extra storage a couple years ago and repainted the inside flooring with slip resistant paint and repaired a leaking roof. It’s also setup with some work lights, a countertop, a toolbox, and two aluminum utility boxes mounted up front. I’m also including the hitch. It’s Axles are rated for 5000 pounds each, the rear door opening measures 87” wide x 77” high. It could use at least one new tire, but otherwise it’s ready for whatever you might need. Please PM with any questions. Thanks for looking, Mark

I guess it’s a love them or not thing… I think there’s also some years that are far more attractive than other years. Personally I love the look…

We (volunteers) had the opportunity to do a little work on an OTTO at the Owls Head Museum a few years ago. A very historic piece of equipment that gets started on occasion now that it’s back together. The noise it made was impressive, and the “muffler” which looks like a drain pipe running up the outside of the building doesn’t quite soften its effect. I’ll look forward to seeing a video of that one running!

I sold a very solid clean 15 T runabout several years ago that the next owner did a super nice restoration on but painted it maroon with cream accents… it was hideous and for some strange reason he couldn’t sell it for what he bought it from me for. If it had been just plain old black it would have sold double if not more… the guy really thought he was improving its salability. I don’t even want to think of the money he must have lost. It was his car and his choice, but some people just don’t “get it”

Oops, it must have been $100 plus shipping. Here is that old thread:

I bought mine without the instructions on eBay three years ago for $100 shipping included and it’s as complete as yours is. I have seen them listed much higher but I don’t know if they sold… Their use is to set multi-cylinder dual point distributors, my car has a 4 lobe distributor cam for an 8 cylinder engine, so those points need to fire 45 degrees from each other to keep in sync. On a 12 cylinder it would be 30 degrees apart and for a 16 cylinder they need to fire 22.5 degrees apart. I think I posted pictures here years ago using mine, but those pictures are not still in my phone but here’s one of the pictures I was sent of those instructions. If you need I can see if all the instructions are still in my phone…

No, this will likely not fit your Imperial… There were three different sizes of this Gazelle, a large one, a medium one, and this is the smallest of those three. I am not sure if they each had a different size cap, but there’s at least two different ones there as well. As the Imperial was the largest offering in the lineup, I think you need the largest Gazelle on the large cap, which is far scarcer to find in one piece than the more common small one I have.