Mark Wetherbee

There was an eBay seller that had them in sets of three last year, he had two or three different sales in May of 2022 where I was finally able to get the clear one for my 31 along with spares for the other two cups. I asked if he had any singles of that clear one and he said no. They were on the pricey side but if he had a second clear one I planned on adding a RH taillight for safety… Before finding those I had a set of similar lenses that were cut down from larger diameter ones and I setup a thrust bearing and valve grinder cup in my drill press and used diamond files with water to shape the edge enough to fit the rims correctly. I didn’t have a picture of the clear one but it looks okay from 20 feet. When I get home next week I’ll try to remember and get a picture of the back up one.

Skoda, but I don’t know anything more about them other than recognizing that bird…

Pictures would be appreciated David…

Dad had one of those on his used car lot in the late 1970’s and I really thought it looked like fun but he wound up selling it shortly before I got a learners permit… I was kinda sad about that but he didn’t think it was safe as a first car. it still looks like a fun car and I hope your wife has a blast with it!

Thank you Dr. Watson. The cap I have is plated brass and appears to be vented, most radiator caps are die cast and not vented. That said it looks nearly identical to the second photograph. At least it looks good on the radiator shell I picked up and that’s what I was looking for.

This is where I started, and it is what made me question myself. It looks close enough to the radiator cap that it will work for a project I want to do but I didn’t want to ruin it if someone needed it. I picked up a 31 LaSalle radiator shell and I was going to mount this as it’s cap for wall art in my garage…

That is the radiator cap which made me think this was its matching gas cap, but that Eaton mark in the center is the only thing I can find on the bottom.

Good thought but it is not a 32 Ford radiator cap as it doesn’t have the knurled edge and it’s definitely a gas cap. I’ve seen that mark before and thought it was a GM brand subsidiary but just can’t seem to recall which one.

That is sooooo true! My dad’s first T was purchased when I was 12 and I had to try driving it… yup, that was the only time I ever hit the barn wall but thankfully he didn’t see it and no damage was done. It does seem to take a little getting used to!

I’ll add perspective from the other side…well sort of anyhow. In the last few years of my Dad’s life he would do mechanical work on Model T cars for friends. When he passed there was thankfully only one T chassis in pieces that was owned by a club member that he and I both knew well BUT nothing was identified as parts to that particular vehicle. The executor, my very big A-Hole of a brother who cares nothing about the cars, was not accommodating with the owner and it took a lawyers threatening call to him to get me access to get the parts together for my friend to move the chassis. Through all this my brother was as unhelpful thinking that I was trying to “steal” stuff from the estate. Second scenario, I was given a quote to have a set of connecting rods for my Pierce re-Babbitted by a very well respected professional and sent them out not knowing he was in very poor health. Well , he passed away shortly after and when I called to see about the rods his son, who was very much worse than my brother, told me he would do the work but his price was almost double his father’s and I nearly had to get a lawyer involved. He finally sent me the rods back although I don’t know if he did it because I had called the estate attorney to see about petitioning the probate court. A set of replacement cores were very expensive and hard to source… I think it would still be very wise to remove the car before something like that happens, not because of the restorer’s fault but you just don’t know what could happen in an estate situation.

It’s a lot like the one on my father’s 1908 Model S Ford going on memory. I would see if they can verify it in the early Ford section. At one time there was an aftermarket “Master Vibrator” mounted on the front I believe, those holes and wire shouldn’t be there.

Yup, PA… my 31 only has one notch on the bottom so I’m guessing it moved to the top at a later point but it would be covered by the rim.

While not purely “Automobillia” these fit in with the Buick badge above… Fisher Bodies made Jenny Aeroplanes and the Standard Steel Car company, which was primarily a railroad manufacturer who also made automobiles, made the trailers and frames for Howitzer cannons. The Emblem and employee badge are from those two companies. I’ve often wondered how many automobile manufacturers and related manufacturing companies were involved in the war efforts of WW1.

Anything is possible, and Lincoln would be in the category of quality this cap would have been for. I’ll do a little looking at pictures and see if I can spot it on one… Thank you for your reply!

Thanks, guess I’ll have to start looking for something else. I appreciate your help guys!

Thank you for checking! I’m going on the shape nearly matching the late 20’s radiator cap and think it might be 27-29ish. Not a common car to see at any shows locally 🤣

I thought I might have better luck here than in the what’s it section. If anyone knows what years this fits I would appreciate it!

It looks bigger in pictures and I thought it might be an 8 at first. My 31 Pierce 8 takes a 414-C which is a little bigger and has a longer arm.

Does anyone know what this came from and the years this gas cap was for? It’s 3-1/4” in diameter x 5/8” high and fits a fuel tube opening that is 2” inside diameter. It’s a better quality than most of the ones from the era and I originally thought it was Cadillac and LaSalle but the guys in that specific thread have said it was not, so now I’m wondering what it was from. Thank you in advance.

The reference I have says it is the pump for a 1933 Studebaker 6-56 I don’t have the technical data sheet for it in my book but I trust the reference sheet I have.

There’s a small pad on the upper bellows casting where the assembled number is, and there should also be a number on the cam arm itself. The assembled number would help the most but the arm number can help narrow it down. If you can read either I will try to look up the use. It looks an awful lot like one that fits the larger Studebaker cars in the very early 30’s and can be shimmed into my PA. The number you gave is the part number for that specific base casting.

Model T Ford, around late 1916-20 —- they had one or two rivets on the opening handle and the one rivet is earlier I believe. It is missing the kerosene font and burner which were the same pretty much all the way through the early 26 style lights (they were used for non-starter cars to then)

The one I’ve had people ask for is the original Champion C4 two piece plugs. But that might not be the big $$$ plug just the most common usage.

So, my 31 Pierce was purchased off of eBay for the initial investment of $15,000 and an additional $1,000 to get it transported to me. It was a RUNNING car and I drove it the day after it arrived maybe 40 miles for a picnic. The first thing I noticed were that the brakes were tight — by which I mean the cables were bound up and they didn’t work well at all... The next two weeks were spent going through the entire system by disassembly and cleaning everything I could and replacing the brake linings. Then we took the car to a local show about 50-60 miles away. The engine ran a little rough and was woefully short on compression, so valves are next. Well that turned into a two year overhaul of the engine including custom pistons with rings ($1250), new rod bearings ($1000) as well as valves and guides ($600), the engine gasket set for my engine was a little over $500 and a carburetor kit was $125 so it all adds up quickly. While waiting for different engine parts I replaced all the wiring with a new harness ($1100), new fuel line (maybe $150 but many hours), tires (3 with tube and flaps $1500), the list keeps going plus did I mention lots of hours? Those hours are not being paid for which is why they call it a hobby. Then there’s the missing parts, I got very lucky and found the original headlight lens ($150 and there’s one on eBay for $800 now), radiator cap ($150), gas cap ($250), taillight lenses($175 for the set of 3), correct fuel pump ($300 and I’m not even using it), a spare carburetor ($500), and a new float bowl cover ($300) that I just bought a couple weeks ago because mine looks shaky and I don’t want to be out looking for another one when I could be driving the car instead. The point is, yes it might be “easy” to get running, but it doesn’t mean it will be inexpensive to do so and that is an issue someone buying this car needs to know upfront before go in and getting discouraged. All that said, I would buy that car in a heartbeat if I had the room for it and you can bet I’d be just as upside down as I am with my current PA and I would have the best time doing it - and lets face it that is what it is about, having the fun…

No, the underslung is different. This is a 3/4 elliptical where the axle is mounted below the frame.