F&J

You should find a copy of the "Standard Catalog of US Cars" by Clark/Kimes if you like researching prewar info. I had to look up the Cad hyd info as I knew it differs from 1934 LaSalles I had worked on. Book says 1924 for Cad 4 wheel brakes Book says Cad V8-V12 got hyd in 1936, but shows the V16 still with mechanical for 36? Seems odd. LaSalle was the first and only GM to get hyd brakes in year 1934, and it also had the first use of a rear sway bar on GM, and Cad did not yet have that for a year or two later.

Here is the tool for truck rims. You also need one flat thinner pry bar like a huge screwdriver, to help pry up the ring after lifting the first part of the ring up out of the wheel groove. Just don't pry the ring tail way up away from the wheel as it will bend the ring. You want to walk the bars around the wheel a few inches at a time. Get the tire bead pressed downwards away from the lock ring to make ring removal easier. A good unbent ring should lay flat on a floor, and the gap at the split should not be spread out when the ring is laying flat.

It is a tapered axle end with a keyway. The taper is acting like a press fit and you need a special puller that threads on where the hubcap does. Then the puller has a center pushing bolt to push against the axle by tightening it a lot. Then hit the end of that bolt with a hammer to break the taper loose.

That condition with missing so many parts; the only sane way to it ever seeing the road again is being done as a modified car, hot rod, street rod. You'd search for years to find enough good parts to put it back to stock, and spend more than buying an older restoration on a survivor car. I personally prefer 32-33 front grille and front fender style, the late 34 and 35 are not as swoopy looking. Can't tell what year range it is from a rear pic. Price will be set by a rodder in this case, not by a restorer. In my area, and if it is a 32-33 and has front fenders, hood and grille, it would sell fairly fast at 3k to a rodder. 4500 is a bit tougher sell IMO, but it's really a great body styling car for a rod, so that will affect price. If it was a 33-34 Ford 3 window coupe in same exact condition, it would be a fast sale at 8k if it had hood, front fenders, grille. ...but can you do anything with it, with your skills and time? The last guy did absolutely nothing, and there is a reason he never did. .

That type of anti theft switch was also used for a few months of 1929 Desoto production. The rest of the electric system was Delco on those cars, not Northeast like other 29s. The coil was mounted right through the firewall with a 3 bolt flange. Yes, there was a small tamper proof steel box on the side of distributor, and the harness going to it had many dummy wires to add to the theft deterrent system. The bezel on the dash had a larger hole for the ignition switch, compared to the other style with key in coil. The back side of the dash bezel had a split piece of steel tube with a clamp bolt to hold the ignition switch body. I have only seen one of these during the 70s-80s era when I had 29 Desoto cars, I think that system must be quite rare .

Last pic, that dash cluster is one year only, 1933 Nash. I do not know if all of the many models of 1933 Nash cars would differ; .. the prior styles of 1932 Nash clusters definitely did change between models. 1933 was a very tough sales year, and that was well predicted by the industry, so it may fit more models than a 1932 cluster would have as a cost savings.

He has never had an answering machine at the business. He gave me his email once to send pics of a part, but I lost that now. An elderly friend of mine contacted Nelsons daughter and she gave him Nelsons cell number as she said "he was not open" but would make arrangements to meet a buyer there if he had the parts. This was early to mid 2021. My friend passed away in Oct so I can't help with a cell number. If I needed something, I would use snail mail. He did do mail orders for many decades, so I would think he would check the mailbox there at times. He always asked that you include your phone number when mailing a request. N.B.Pease & Co. , 43 Foundry Street Palmer, MA 01069 .

Now I feel old, the coupe shown sitting at N.B.Pease & Co, Palmer, Mass...I started buying prewar parts there 51 years ago. Back then at least a dozen customers standing in line all morning long. They drove there from all of New England on every Saturday morning for parts. About 5 years ago on a Saturday, I was the only one there, and I said something about the old days of tons of customers. He put his hands way up and looked side to side, like "where are they now?". One Saturday in the early 70s, he asked a bunch of us customers to help him move an antique piano from the back of his 1935 Ford pickup, into the front of the building next to the school bus. He never was a car collector, but was a musician and a musical instrument collector. He has a museum filled with that on Main St. a deceased friend told me that prior to moving to Palmer, he lost his first big parts warehouses in a fire in West Springfield (also right next to RR tracks), and he lost tons of parts going deep onto brass era, including one & two cylinder era. He must be in his late 80s now? He had the biggest hoard of every auto parts catalog ever printed, dating back to the beginning of catalogs. It took 45 years, but finally let my son and I to wander through the buildings picking out parts after telling us exactly where to look. He was not up to doing the stairs multiple times in the main big building I guess.

I personally won't use 8v. One thing you have not mentioned is the physical size, and cranking amps of the battery you use. I worked on three different 34 LaSalle straight 8 cars for an estate. (very similar to your Buick). The first one had a modified battery tray which "hangs" under the front seat floor in the chassis frame. One long time former owner had used the biggest size battery that would fit between the frame sections by using a longer tray. The battery had to be put in with a floor jack from under the car, then the hanging bracket was hooked to the main brackets. The battery was too big to go in from above.. Anyways it started so nice with a new biggest 6v battery from Tractor Supply, that I did the same thing with the other two cars. One old time mechanic told me decades ago, ''buy the heaviest battery that will fit" Heavy means more plates, more cranking amps, more reserve. Far better than a smaller cased, lighter 8v, and lasts far longer.

You need to understand what type of roads and traffic you will want to drive on. The biggest buyer mistake I have seen in the last few decades, is people often impulse buy by ''the styling of the car", but never knew the car could not keep up with impatient people on the roads, and even if the car can be forced to go 55-60 on secondary roads, it ends up not being any fun at all. So most of these cars never get driven, or get resold. My best advice is if you find a car available within driving distance, have the seller drive you on the types of roads you prefer, and see if it can be any fun at those speeds. .

rear window and quarter windows are way too big for 40, also look at chrome trim around both, so it's 41-48 for sure.

Don't take any "stock picks" from that person. Yes, "uncommon" in the roadster version compared to a Whippet sedan, but project cars just don't sell for much money anymore, especially in that mid 20s era. Your description makes me think that it likely needs full restoration?, and likely not a nice "survivor" that can be used with minor work. If that is true, I think you will be very disappointed at what it actually ever sells for. You are in Montana, so that's even worse due to the very limited local buyers there, and buyers around the rest of USA would be facing huge now-rising shipping costs which will eliminate most dreamers. Unfortunately most people looking at ads for cheaper project cars really are dreamers, as they rarely will buy one. That drives the real selling price even lower. Most of us who like really old prewar cars are too old to buy more, and don't want to tackle more work. We are downsizing instead.

To test a generator by itself: On GM and Mopar Generators, remove all wires from F and Batt/Arm terminals. Then hook a voltmeter lead to the Batt/Arm terminal, and the other test lead to a good ground. Run the engine up to 1500-1800rpm, then jump the F terminal to a good ground for just long enough to see if the voltage goes wild, meaning it should 'pin' the needle on an analog meter. Don't leave the F jumped for very long as the generator is running way beyond specs. If you do this and only show a couple of volts or less, the generator is not working. On Fords, you put power to the F to do the test. If a generator was dormant for decades, it might have lost it's residual magnetic charge, and that is restored by when you said you motored it, or you polarize it. You've done that already, so do the test above.

One guy on HAMB did a thread on converting all of his gauges using early to mid 1970s Ford Pick-up gauge innards into his old gauges. I used his info on mine. I redid mine with 1973 Ford truck donors. Very old pic below. This car is my primary year round car for almost 3 years and they still work. See how some needles point up, some point down? The Ford trucks also do the same. The great thing to know is that all of these Ford gauges are same guts, no matter if for Gas, Temp, Oil, so if your temp gauge has needle up or facing down, you just use any one of the Ford gauges that points the same way, sweeps the same direction, as yours. Then use a Ford temp sending unit for the same year Ford from auto parts store. They are 12v but Ford uses a single separate small voltage limiter to drop them all to 6v average. My car is 12v so I kept the Ford voltage limiter. I would think they would work fine without the Ford limiter on a 6v car. I made my old gauge faces fit onto the Ford innards. Solder/Glue/Epoxy etc. You can snip off your stock old fashioned needle and glue it to the Ford guts if needed. The only drawback is that these modern temp gauges read "hot" much further than 1930s cars that stopped at 212 degrees, So you can't expect to get a true reading using your old face. The Ford guts are definitely factory adjustable inside, but I did not try that.

The actual blade was the same stamping, but as you know, there are holes/ and or brackets welded for the bolts that go through the chrome bullets. All 4 blades on any car are different from each-other because the front bolt holes are closer together than the rear blade holes. Then the upper blades don't have holes, just welded brackets underneath that are threaded for the bolts that come up through the lower blades. the reason I wrote all that is that I don't know if the spacing on LaS bolt holes would be the same as all models of Cadillac. Send the buyer your measurements of front and rear bolt spacings. Ok, the bullets might look the same, but I am 100% positive that the Las uses smaller diameter bullets than Cad. It's quite a big difference, and the 4 LaS bolts are shorter for that reason. The chromed spring-loaded bumper mounting tubes are totally different on LaS compared to Cad. They look the same on a finished car, but they are very different where they bolt to the chassis underneath. .

Printed media now just costs way too much to produce/deliver, to support any type of dying market or hobby. The media companies simply cannot get enough advertisers dollars or subscribers. Can we hate on them if they try last ditch efforts to keep publishing print? We can't bring back the past. The car "hobby" during my long life has continually been changing, and so has the road speed requirements! During the last 2 decades, I only had 2 friends into stock prewars and neither drove them on the road! One just passed away recently, the other just went to senior housing. ^^Finally the same thoughts as I was writing mine; There are no stock prewars on my roads, and almost none at any show near here. There is a noticeable increase in me seeing prewar hotrods on my roads. At my age 70, with limited sunsets left, I now see no point in myself owning a car that cannot be driven (and fully enjoyed!) at my local road speed requirements, meaning keeping out of modern texting drivers way. It's even stressful with my true every day year round primary car, a heavily modified 1932 with it's small signal/brake lights as I try to slow enough to get in my driveway on a 55mph State road. My only other registered vehicle is a 1966 Chevy 4wd "very modernized" pickup (100% stock appearing), that I do feel very safe when pulling in my driveway, as it is so big, and very noticeable to them. I have owned it for 25+ years and it will safely cruise in the interstate high speed lane while towing a loaded car trailer, something that would be physically impossible if totally stock, even in the slow lane! I sold my 1930 Mopar roadster restorod in 1985 to buy a bone stock 1932 Plymouth cabriolet, but sold it in 1991 as I rarely drove it because it just could not quite stay up to our local road speeds. I do miss driving a stock early 30s open car so I have 2 project ones left, but both now have better axle ratios if i ever finish either one.

shocking 3 minute video just posted. Do you really want to mail out your rare parts for repairs or re-chrome?

32 Ford with bug guard on radiator. It has 32 Ford roadster front body as the rear fender is more like roadster width, and too wide for touring?, and has the step plate. Foreign plates?, Rhd, so it could be a Au or NZ Ute. IDK

A late friend showed me a 1931 model 60 Buick he had just bought, and I know he flipped a toggle switch under the dash edge to show me that the dash gauges lights still worked. I had a 1930 Mopar and that car had the same switch for it's dash lights. So, that's my guess as to your switch.

On any drum brake, you must put each shoe in the drum to see if the curve of the shoe is matched to fit the curve of the drum. If the shoe rocks in the oversize drum and does not get full contact, the shoe bends/flexes as you press the brake pedal, causing a soft feel. My dad ran a shop in the 50s and he had thin flexible asbestos brake shoe shim material on a roll. The shim would correct the unmatched curve of the lining, but i don't know if that material is still available. i don't know which is the proper lining type for your car. I have read that it depends on if it's a pressed steel drum or cast iron drum. The wrong choice would cause less gripping ability.

They are not captured on the roadsters I had decades ago. Square nuts and lock washers. (I don't know about the rear doors as I never had a touring.) Yes, look it over closely and just use common sense when wiggling the looseness that you are trying to fix. Like I said, the 2 halves were originally solidly attached to each other. If they are now broken apart, that tends to stress the screws and then they loosen. The door will come off easy if you remove the sheet metal tab. Lift the door up off the pins and slide the door out of both hinge pockets. Then you could see inside the hinge body better.

I don't have a Plymouth hinge, but here is a 29 Chevy that is close. Your Plymouth hinge body is made from upper and lower halves and the Chevy is one piece. I drew black lines where the Plymouth hinge body is split. I think the 2 halves were spot welded together on the Plymouth. The part with the X on a Plymouth is a separate flat piece that can get loose, and it has the pivot hole for the door hinge pin on the door. If that plate broke loose from the bottom half, then the door will flop around. I put the arrow to point to the hinge hole. These hinges are held to the wooden post with 2 tapered wood screws, and 2 flat head machine screws with nuts on the back side. If the 2 halves have broken into 2 pieces, then it will flop around if the screws get loose. that sheet metal flap on Plymouth was attached to one of the 4 screws, and it is a "Stop" to keep the door from being lifted up off of that hinge pin hole. Swing it away to then be able to lift the door up, then the door comes of the car quickly.

Pics from one of my 34 LaS dashboards. It is a sedan dashboard, and used the inboard hole, closer to center of dash, There were 2 widths of 1934 dashboards, one I have is 1.5" wider than my 3 others, and I think Convertible used the wider one? I don't know why they made 2 holes. Only one square hole was used. Lucky that one still has the special bracket and hardware for you to match up in your boxes of parts. I made an arrow to point to a small 90 degree bent tang on that rectangular back bracket, (that is hard to see here). The tang keeps the bracket from turning as you tighten?

your newest pics are showing just fine. PS, I took pics of a door hinge to show you a few things. I have to make arrows on one pic to show some part that might be loose on yours. I will try to do that tonight, or..

It will run even hotter at low speed because a variable resistance switch is designed to lower the speed by converting the "un needed" voltage to heat. It gets far worse when a car gets swapped to 12v but still has the 6v blower motor. In those cases, it will melt the plastic nearby like wiring terminal insulation, or knob. Cars these days and since maybe 1960s, have their blower motor resistor inside the air flow ductwork of the heater to keep the resistor cool.