F&J

I prefer 1932 cars of any make, so I like that car. It looks like an unfinished project that then sat a long time? The original paint front fender condition means the car was in good condition before it was taken apart for restoration. Buick as well as others like Nash made so many different model sizes in 1932, so looking for the parts can be frustrating if you find a part, but it is for a different model size of 32 Buick. Yours looks really complete from what I see so far.

sprag clutch is one name. I don't know if they need a certain minimum RPM to engage or not, probably not. Some automatic transmissions have them; Maybe they could be cheap used donor pieces for a project? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch

How on earth could somebody do that to a nice complete early brass car? The car finally went to the right person now for sure.

I get your thoughts, but as he is OK with the fixer-upper paint and interior quality and has no plans to upgrade those, then the appraisal "sort of changes" versus a person who only wants resto quality cosmetics which then "requires" the car comes apart for that level. My point is that then this car is actually "worth" more to Jamie compared to a fussier buyer. As far as selling value pricing: The car is in East Nowhere SD, that means no matter where it is advertised, can? we assume it will be a long distance sale that needs shipping costs affecting a realistic asking price. If it was at a huge hoarder auction that is very well advertised and has 100+ cars and some are popular cars, flippers and end users drag a trailer hoping for a good car but sometimes end up with a lesser car "because they are there with cash and trailer", (and end up buying a lesser car if bids went too high on the good stuff). Look at the crazy insane prices paid at the Nebraska hoard of old but never driven Chevy Dealership cars/trucks that sat outdoors rotting away since brand new. But this car is not there, and that changes what the car "could" bring elsewhere. Projects have fallen out of favor, the car is a 4 dr sedan, and a non-runner. Years ago, flippers would buy a project if cheap enough, but they won't now, unless it is a super dirt cheap no brainer price. Flippers definitely drive any collector item market pricing, even today. Also, driven as a daily for the first 24 years, was it completely worn out mechanically? So we should maybe try thinking about "how little is this car worth as a sensible, non-insulting minimum bid, as is, where is" and "at what price will it never, ever sell, as is, where is". I doubt it would sell at 7-8K, what do the members here think? 4-5k would be better chance of selling?

Thanks for the encouragement. When my son almost demanded last June that I should "get some paint on some of the Nash body (to look like it's close to done)" , I'll admit that my heart was not into big projects due to age concerns, reflecting on life, etc. Even just 4 years ago, nothing on any of my rough cars seemed like any problem. The last 2 years, even planning a small step seems so overwhelming for some reason. But, if I do finish anything small, even non car stuff, I then ask myself "why could that seem so difficult, because it was not really hard to do after I finally just did it". Mind games? I got in a depressed mindset again this summer sitting around doing nothing except selling parts, so I almost started back on the wood repair on the 34 LaSalle conv that I was so looking forward to back in 2017 before being dragged to the hospitals. The Nash still seemed overwhelming, and my son said "well OK, maybe if you least fixed JUST the wood, then you'd get that off your mind and get back on the Nash". Right now, I'm glad I instead went back to the Nash. At my age, I had convinced myself that I cannot finish TWO rough cars, or should not spend my last sunsets in a shop. The dilemma is that not only is the 34 Las my one and only lifetime chance to own and more importantly Drive a big heavyweight "classic styled open car" , (and me haven driven other 34 Las cars and love how they run, feel, and ride), I still love the little entry level Nash with it's odd "upscale" body and options. It's like that Nash was first bought by a low income guy like me, but was ordered with sidemounts, twin trumpet horns, etc, to "look like a richer mans car". I don't want the LaS just because it is a higher end car, I am hooked on the cars engineering, the simplicity and reliability of the new inline 8, and that LWB ride with that awesome dash in front of you, and low chromed windshield! Things may work out in the future, my son says never sell the LaS until I need the money for bills, or have a very important use for the money. (I have a friendly guy wanting it for 3 years and he keeps stopping in to ask. I told him and my son that this is very comforting in case I pass away suddenly, as that guy could find every LaS part no matter where it's hiding here, and my son cannot) So a long post, but my son is also correct in that if I do finish the Nash (and then still feel like working), then the LaS is still here.

The 2 pics in post number one are a real mind tester. The first pic sure looks like a removable head with the typical composition head gasket, but 2nd pic of the side??? What is going on with the 3 eyelet things above the side manifold ports?? I don't see a parting line where the head could be removed at those eyelets?

The camera shows a blue tone better than in person. Nobody has stopped by yet to ask their opinion. As soon as I get anywhere near the aprons with a black paint stick outdoors like I did once again yesterday, you instantly say "yes, that's definitely dark blue" Like I mentioned, the black of the convertible top, tires, and running boards should instantly convince the eye that it is a 2 tone blue car because those black items are "all over the car" from the ground up to the top. I bet that if the top was that Tan Hartz cloth and if I went whitewalls, then the dark blue would look more like black. I think it will look super nice, so I'm done worrying. I still need to repaint the main body beltlines with the new mix of dark blue, but that can easily done (indoors if needed), after the body is on. There just is not enough contrast on those beltlines if I don't. It's just a small step backwards, except for all the tedious taping, including the belts on the hood and grille shell. At least I feel like I'm finally making noticeable progress (especially when the body gets back on), thank goodness. Next goal/step will be the beltlines. Steve, is there any place still in CT that will re-chrome these simple flat style bumpers? I don't dare ship them out, (if they go missing, I know I will never find any others). Sad thing is that the bumpers, headlight bar and door glass frames were replated 50 years ago when the car was first rescued, but then left to rust up again. .

Wood is bad : Look how hard that the right door "upper rubber bumper" has chewed up the B-pillar, and door is not aligned well when close. Look at the destroyed wood remnants of the truck lid top framing. Trunk drip edge areas looks like it may have been rusted? Motor sounds like a box of rocks. Piston slap or wrist pins, loose rod bearings? It is going to need full rebuild, rebore, oversize pistons, etc. Look at all the manifold insulation, rubber insulating hoses over the metal gas lines, coiled-up gas line ...that engine might run way too hot due to an "unknown" potentially serious? issue, as all that work was to combat serious vapor locking. They obviously kept added more to keep fighting vapor lock. A true money pit if repairs are started. If somebody started on door wood/A-pillar issues first, then the whole body will snowball to full rewooding. It is ''economically'' unrestorable if it was all repaired correctly, but somebody may try some sketchy repairs on the worst of the wood issues and somehow patch the engine up....but not at that price Gramps "only drove it a few times"...LOL ...he must have bought it sight unseen, then found out it was a very bad idea when it was delivered. I do give credit to seller, he has warned the buyers. A very honest guy for sure IMO.

Yesterday I cleaned up a years worth of "stuff" under and piled next to the chassis, then put the right front backing plate and drum/wheel back on, from late Spring when I got sidetracked in selling many things that I'll never need. I will do the left kingpin rebuild this winter. I need the body on ASAP. Today I did the finish welding on the Nash rear end perches on the Ford 8" rear axle housing, then painted the all the back end chassis parts with leftover black Tractor Supply paint from my son's bed swap. In case you forgot, the stock Nash drums are still there (as dummy drums), but they still have ancient Rustoleum farmer blue paint on them. They will be like factory did in 1932 when they were painted in the medium blue of the main body, (with midnight blue wire wheels). I might get help tomorrow I think, or the weekend, to use the bucket crawler to get the body on. Chassis is now back on the 4 tires and 100% ready for that install. I had to put the 2 rear aprons outside during today so they would not be in the way. They still look black unless you really are looking for a hint of blue tint. Late today I wanted to hold the 2 toned painted radiator shell next to the aprons outside, to see what the medium blue does to the "new" apron color, but I'd likely drop it. LOL. "it is what it is". I'm not going to change the dark blue at this point. I think because the sun is so low now, that is affecting what i see outdoors? IDK

It is a Model 22, as it is twin chain drive, not single chain like the later Model 25. It looks like it is a 1913 or 14, engine number will tell if not swapped back in the day. The block does not have the casted shelf for the later self starter, so it's an early Metz 4 engine. Early T Ford clincher wheels can be modified to fit for the rear ones.

We need Keiser31 to look at this car pics. The car never left the factory without a spare tire mounting point, either sidemounts or rear mount bracket. I am not an expert on CM, but other Mopars of this era had a full width rear bumper if it came with sidemounts and rear rack like this car has. The rear spare mount Mopar cars normally had split rear bumpers, but as I said, I'm not a CM person. I agree the car looked super nice before resto, that is a huge sales price booster IMO. One sketchy thing is the nasty looking patch on the bottom of gas tank. Not being picky, especially at near this price so far, just a heads up.

Forecast for today, Monday, was 62 and 63 tomorrow. No wind, so why wait. I had to remix the darkest blue for the aprons first, using jet black. I went too dark, Sheesh, but I had just enough Phalo Blue PPG mixing toner left to re-lighten the mix. Then I used a paint stick in that mix and tried to hold it up to the 2 toned body in the storage bay, but that bay is too dark to see anything. Outdoors in sun, that stick looked black, but the 10+ year old pic below of nice original paint hiding under the fender light gasket, also definitely looked black back then, too. (I had to use rubbing compound on a white rag to prove to myself it was blue) So, I just need to make progress as I honestly don't want to work anymore.....it's simply not feeling like a hobby now; but don't want a scattered basket case in my estate. I will settle for a 50 footer if I can somehow finish the car. After I painted all four aprons in bright sun, you get snow blind and they looked black in person. More despair, but then I held that jet black paint stick near one apron and that idea finally showed that they really are midnight blue. The black tires, running boards, black cloth top, (and the fenders in this dark blue) will show these all as being midnight dark blue. In the pic here of the side edge of the rear-most apron, the camera can "see" the blue, but not in person ! ... unless you pick the part up and keep rotating it in the sun a lot. Close enough for me. Unlike the main body re-painting a year ago, this time I used black primer for the last primer coat and hoped one coat of blue would cover, and it did. There was no wind today, but dark colors really show the expected dust. If I went with 2 coats, it would be such a mess with another layer of dust, and the 2nd coat over existing dust would make that prior dust look far worse. ( I have never color sanded my cars, and sure won't on this one.) One coat is enough. That rear-most apron will be 2 toned later, just the insides of the twin scalloped body lines. I need to do a bit of work on the chassis to be ready to get my son to help put the body back on on this weekend.

I'm trying to see how "thick" the casting is. In other wording, the shiny threads on the stud makes it seem like the casting is 1/4" thick? If it is at least 1/4" depth of cast, new bigger threads should hold just fine, because JB once held it without leaking before. At almost a $1000 shipped for manifolds, why not wait for replies here on fixing yours? Yes, they do make studs with one end bigger. I assume yours is 3/8" and you'd then use one that has 7/16" coarse on big end, and slowly tap new threads. As there is a pipe plug blocking the old manifold heat hole, that plug will help in keeping the tap from breaking the metal web near that plug. If you cannot find the correct stepped stud sizes, make one on a lathe. Geez, I was just going to say that Joe could make one easy...then he posted.

Most of the body looks like a factory made aftermarket one made to fit the A? Much of it looks too well made to be homebuilt at a later time. The door beltlines and wooden framing in them, and the roof, look a lot like a 1930 A Martin Parry open side huckster delivery that i had a few years ago. I have the exact same ones on my 32, but I put them 90 degrees with the pointed end facing up. I had no room around the column and no room for the gas pedal if they were not turned upwards. That waffle rubber insert was as brittle as glass from age and breaking apart, despite never being used (NORS). I made new inserts from deep tread from a modern tire. Less slippery that way

Correct, it seems impossible at 15 thou shim. But everyone here tried to find an explanation, and I guess we need to back off. Now that the shop also knows about that shim, they will sort it out. We all have battles we wish we could forget. You run a business that must come with iffy client stresses, and have homelife obligations, ....and then you get to work on your car when overtired and it's not exactly stress-free, including tying up the shop lift. The only other unrelated thing I thought of to tell the shop owner is the oil pump mounting bolt threads. I had an uneasy feeling back then about the way you described that issue about questioning the internal threads.

Matt replied a second before I did. More to think about. And one more question for Matt: was the shim on the floor exactly the same material and shape as other bearing shims? I hope you say no as it could be from someplace else; (had it maybe been used as an "improvised" washer from a bolt on some parts you took off when the stand was on the lift?) Think outside the box on this, rather than be convinced that it "must" have come from a bearing cap. I had earlier today thought that maybe a spare shim was left in the oil pan on last rebuild, but that made no sense as it was on the floor, not the pan. I then wondered if a spare shim was stuck someplace and pulling the pan let it fall out from where it was stuck. That is a far stretch too. One very odd thought, was it a spare bearing shim "saved" under an oil pan bolt in case it was needed later? Grabbing at straws here.

I did assume typo for one reason. If you ended up then tightening that rod OR main cap 7.5 thou with a 15 thou shim gone, I would think the engine would be really stuck when tightened. If Matt replies that it's not a typo, a bunch of us will be stumped. Also meaning if a single rod was previously as loose as 7.5 +, it should have been pounding. A single main that loose would not pound IMO. You do bring up something to think about though, if we went back to each post on his changing oil pressure issues: ...let's say if somebody messed up badly in the distant past with one main shimmed that loose, oil pressure would be very low, but then again, what are the odds that the shim just happened to be from that one super loose main. IDK

I'm disagreeing with your post, not to insult you, but rather trying to explain things for Matt's benefit. He has already been hammered by this engines many issues, and needs no further things to rethink every night in bed. (no joke intended) I took enough time to go back many pages to see if Matt measured the shim. Yes, he says it is .0015. Now I should have spent a lot more time to find out which caps he took off in total, and if he had said if the shim was the width for a rod or a main or if they are the same. I also should have looked in my manuals at the shop to find the real specs for bearing clearances on that engine. Rebuild specs would be tighter on the max clearance side, than the max acceptable clearance on a used engine/used bearing. When rebuilding a engine you normally do not shoot for max clearance specs. (Yes, a race motor is built with very loose clearances to reduce drag) Ok, if the shim is "One and a half Thousand", and only one shim was "lost", lets do some easy basic math using basic specs. The specs for clearances are different for engine RE-build, than the "max wear limits" of a used engine. Let's say the combined specs show 1.5 to maybe 3 thousandth ". If we forget to put just one 1.5 shim on one side of a cap, the actually clearance will change roughly by half of that shim. So, as we should know, when measuring for far less than one thousandth of clearance difference, that will be subject to discrepancies on a recently run engine with oil layers, perhaps some particles under the cap ends, etc....>> when using Plastigage as a tool. If we assume the used engine clearances were more towards halfway or to the bigger end of specs, that 3/4 of a thousandth "tightening" of one bearing will not change anything in the big picture. So, just because one super thin shim missing on one journal and still reads OK by Plastigage, that simply does not mean the rest were too loose, and does not mean the other bearings were not within the published "wear limits" of a used engine. The one with missing shim?....It certainly could not be tight enough to burn that bearing on his test stand. >>> I do have to eat my earlier words about the new shop being able to "know" where the shim was, as I did not take time to find out how thin it was. But, the shop knows about that shim, I rest assured they will definitely do a very good job at checking clearance on each main and rod journal. When a shop knows a shim is missing and what size/thickness it was, they will do a thorough job on checking specs.

New members with very few posts are blocked from messages. In that case, the best way to contact him is to do a "quote" of something he has said . The software here will then send a notice of a quote to him. (and you will now get a notice on me quoting you) Like This: He will now see my post and find out why I quoted him.

It's an old original joint, but is still commonly done today on house wooden trim and wood frame windows. The lumber mills cut out each defect or knot from the raw wood planks, then finger-join the now very short pieces back into dimensional lumber again. Then the end-user company that makes trim or windows now have very stable, warp resistant wood to use where stability is mandatory. On old cars, finger joints were common for curves on thicker parts that are impractical/impossible for bending. Many styles and sizes of cutter heads are shown here: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=woodworking+finger+joint+cutter&t=brave&iax=images&ia=images .

The valves that bent at starter motor cranking speed should not be overly involved, or very super expensive correction. Yes, it takes time to regrind the many seats on a 12 cylinder when replacing valves, but beyond that it is a simple job. However, that shim you found on the floor would definitely be a huge concern any person who has engine experience. Engine bearing systems are not some exotic mysterious issue. I would think he will rotate the engine on a stand and remove all caps and measure all crankshaft bearing clearances at a minimum. It's not rocket science to determine if that shim was needed, and exactly where it was if it was needed. I'm a spendthrift, but I know I would inspect the lost shim issue properly before I ran the engine again. IMO; ...As far as putting 20-25k more into an engine that had been cracked for whatever reason, had known overheat issues already (and likely ran a bit on the hotter side when new by it's design), in a car that you said you are way beyond any resale value before this new shop even got it,.... 20-25k more seems like a very bad road to even consider. Meaning just for one example, nobody could "guarantee 100%" if decades of rust corrosion has thinned the cylinder walls to where it may still run too hot in traffic even if you spend the 20+k. Me, I'd fix the valves, measure all crank clearances, fix the oil leak at the rear of crankshaft, and stop there. (He definitely will find where the shim was without any guessing) Then run it on the stand multiple times to gain confidence (with the stock radiator and fan) to see where you are at that point.

It does appear to be a pinch from an iron because there are 2 impressions in a direct line, facing the exact direction of where an iron would be doing the damage. A pinch from a bar against the rim is always going to be pushing on a "fold", so 2 holes or 2 adjacent marks will be typical. Also that exact area on the tube would line up with where the rim edge would be in relation to where the tire bead would be being worked with a bar. Over 50 years ago in a tire recap/tire sales shop, we had oblong patches that were used on 2 adjacent holes like that. Spare tubes on a shelf..... How do people keep them from dry cracking? I have to wonder if putting them in a shop fridge would help. I have been double bagging them in plastic bags on a shelf, but I doubt that will work for long term with the modern rubber. This hobby can be full of minor minefields with the quality of some things.

Can you imagine how well it's going to go if you bought one and wonder which day/week it will get dragged out? Logistics nightmare for a buyer if the sellers removal schedule keeps changing due to difficulties or weather, etc. You'd be on call with your trailer at a motel? Removal: By Appointment and IN LOT ORDER OF SALE Only, Approximately 10-Cars Daily shall be removed by the Sellers Staff to the parking lot beginning Monday, November 29 and continuing Monday - Friday until all are removed Phase 1 of 3: More cars in later auctions there?

Hey now, speak for yourself as I'm only in my 60s, well... for the next 2 months that is.. My pace should get a big boost once the body is on and looks more encouraging. and I can't stand seeing all the loose parts in piles. Umm... "I just need to put them back on". See, it's that simple, right?

I have to keep my goals very small so i don't get discouraged. My only goal is to get the body back on before snow, and then it will only take one full day to make it yard drivable again so it can easily be moved out of the work bay to work on my 2 drivers if needed. The Nash has been yard drivable at some point of each year since 2007. I sometimes look at the entire thread to be able to see progress. Feb 2008 pic down below when taking out old re-used furniture wood that the resale flippers that sold it to me, had put in, and nothing fit. I also will never forget the day I first saw the Nash front end view sitting raised way up in the air on a tilt-bed wrecker at the local swap meet car corral. He was looking for a used truck and I was not wanting another project car. I saw it from 100 yards away and blurted out to my son; "Now That's MY kind of car". I still feel that way about it. Speaking of flipping cars, my last flip car, a 1930 roadster, just left on a trailer at 9pm tonight. I've been trying to sell it for months. Now I can concentrate on the Nash. Geebus... it is COLD out tonight in New England.