F&J

one way is to clean it spotless and dry, (and no antifreeze leaking out, so drain it) Then when perfectly dry and super clean, give it a thin coat of latex white house or ceiling paint. Then after that paint dries, add water and run it, it should leave a rusty stain right at the crack over time. JB Weld is used by some of the early CJ2 1940s Jeep forum guys, as those engines typically have block freeze cracks near the distributor. I did it to my sons 1946 Jeep, but we don't use a pressurized radiator cap on his farm-use-only Jeep. Can't hurt to try it. It has to be ground super clean to shiny metal, and totally free of antifreeze creeping though the crack while you are using the JB Weld on it. I don't know if it will hold with pressure. It might?

Keiser31 is more of an expert on early Mopars, but as I owned a 29, the bumper bars and it's clamps look homemade, but the actual black bumper mounting bracket looks correct. The wire wheels are later than 28-29, which had much smaller hupcaps with exposed lug nuts. The radiator shell looks possibly wrong for a 29 from what little I can see being painted black, so I wonder if this is a 1930 Plymouth? I thought that a 1930 shell was taller than 28-29, which would need a taller hood and cowl? That's why it possibly could be a 1930. I'm not picking the car apart! These 28-31 Plymouth tourings are seldom ever seen, the sidemounts are somewhat rare on the low priced Plymouth, and really add to the good looks. There is a serial number on the dash medallion and if the engine is original to that car, the first letter of the stamped engine serial number will tell if it is a 29 or not. I cannot price any car, however it looks pretty darn good, and it's uncommon. A keeper in my mind.

They don't "require" hardened seats, the engine rebuild shops just promote the misinformation to protect themselves. It's insurance to those shops in case an engine is tortured like my example on my first post. These rebuild shops have no clue if the owner was to run way too much timing, carburetor main jet under-sizing for different altitudes, and under what conditions the engine "might" be severely abused. Of course they will then suggest hardened seats. Not that it matters for proof of anything, but I was ASE certified mechanic since the 70s, but I only mention my career when I say that "I" have only seen one case of valve seat recession "with my own eyes". (This was pre-ethanol/methanol blends in the early no-lead days) I was pretty shocked to see the valves had sunk so low that the engine could then not get enough air/fuel flow to have enough power to drive at normal speeds. It was a motor home with an early 289 Ford that did a cross country trip coast to coast, the owner admitted bumping the timing up for more power as the engine was just too small for that vehicle and it's lack of aerodynamics. It barely made the trip back. He also said the engine pinged constantly, even at cruise. In closing, we must go back to those days of the "American" (Amoco) stations selling ONLY no lead gas for decades. If there was common valve seat damage then, word would have spread very fast, and they would have been forced to add lead like all other gas brands did. You cannot refute or change actual history.

False fear mongering info spread online by people that don't repair cars for a living. Don't you all remember 50s-60s "American" brand stations ONLY had "white gas" which was always unleaded. Back then people stuck with one brand of gas for their lifetime, and there never were any reports of "American"-brand gasoline causing engine damage. Higher compression engines always ran hi-test to prevent pinging/valve knock/pre-ignition. No cars needed hardened seats to use their gas back then. People also bought white gas there for Coleman lanterns and stoves. Countless engines that predate the 70s that don't have hardened seats, antique cars, lawn tractors etc, are still running with no valve seat recession. , . Valve seat recession occurred when an engine was used under constant excessive laboring conditions such as an underpowered huge, heavy old motorhome fighting poor aerodynamics with timing cranked up and constantly pinging at highway cruise speed. Pinging, or "pre-ignition", or 'valve knock" has pretty much disappeared with the amount of water content in todays gas. Some may recall water injection back in the day to combat pre-ignition, aka pinging, aka valve knock. Also, Earlier antique cars have such low compression (5-1, to 7-1) that then never could or would ping under any conditions. Any engine rebuild shop that says those early cars "need" hardened seats are misleading the public.

I could not see anything wrong with clutch parts in the bellhousing, so I decided I needed to be able to start and shut off the engine from in the seat first. Then I'd be able to start it in gear to test the clutch issue. I hooked up a starter pull cable, and a toggle switch on dash for the coil. Then I wanted a gas pedal. That meant finding the original wood toe kick board where the gas pedal needs to be mounted to. I put the angled board in, and then saw that I had misjudged how high up the clutch needed to be adjusted to, back when I put the motor in the chassis. The reason the clutch messed up the second time I tried to move the car, is that with no toe board, I did not know i was pushing the pedal way too far down which causes the disc to not release. The first time, I must have not pressed too hard, then later on, tired out, I just went too far down, and pressed even harder when it was grinding the gears. If I had let it up a bit that day, it would have shifted fine, I am using the Chevy Carter W1 carb that came with the new engine. It must have worked good for at least a few Great Races in the former 32 race Nash. My other carb has too many issues to bother with. But now none of my old temporary gas pedal and linkage fits. I remembered I had found a NOS International bell crank this summer, and saw that I could use to bolt to my firewall. The bolt pattern was the same as two holes on the firewall. It's the part with red arrow. Then made a short new rod from the unknown make Art Deco aluminum pedal, to that bell crank. Then re-bending the longest link that I think came with the new engine. Today was the first warm day, but also the last. So, I had to fix my shop furnace stove pipe and a rotted box that bolts to the furnace for the pipe. I got it OK for the winter. Then had to try to fix a coolant leak on my 1966 truck as I ran out of coolant a month ago, and was forced to add plain water where I broke down. No sense adding antifreeze before fixing the leak. I thought it was needing intake manifold gaskets which I dreaded doing for a month so far, but it was a single bolt, leaking up through. Spent lot of time cleaning, sealing, and used a copper washer too. I'm letting the sealer harden overnight before filling the system. I will run it tomorrow to see, but I think it is fixed. Both of these jobs went far better that I dreaded. And i don't feel that well lately, so maybe i can now relax and rest up. I did drive the Nash out earlier to look at the colors again during changing sun all day, but the pics I took are way too deceiving to show. I simply must leave it be, it looked more blue today...I think.. lol. Feels so good to be able to get in the Nash and drive it again. PS, that weird noise? it was the one gallon gas tank hanging on the firewall and it was touching the carb hard, When i push the clutch just right, it allowed the can to rattle against the carb. Geebus, I feel like a beginner lately. Oh, last pic down way below...a wicked nice blue/black 32 Nash 1060 sedan popped up F/S on Hamb, My car has the same blue in this pic of it.

Don't need to wait for the adapter; I just put a thumb in each hole and have somebody crank it. That's for looking for dead holes, if the "air" won't blow past your thumb when you have a good seal to the hole, then that hole is dead, even if you feel a bit of pressure. I agree to suspect valves, and do all of the suggestions in post #2, but you need to know if those 2 cylinders are dead first.

One thing I've noticed is that bigger 32-33 Nash cars are out there around the world, but they seem to be rarely posted on the web or in the archives of NCCA since their 1970 founding. I think if a person wants a 1090 or 1190 or wants to know how many are "known" but hiding, I'd be getting some sort of foot in the door to be able to chat with the 2 biggest 31-33 Nash collectors. One in Pa, the other in France. It is stock for that 1931 800 series, pic below from restored car on NCCA; a poor view from opposite side, but it is a downdraft. I am surprised that nobody commented or spotted the OP's carb in his pic. That is a modern Rochester 2GC. What is the spider shaped metal line thing near manifolds? Some sort of added Marvel Mystery top end oiler?

Forgot to say that the AACA library should be able to sell you an inexpensive copy of anything they have on file, like paint color charts These will say what color body, fenders, name of color, etc, on each 1931 model of Nash. Also ask them for a full list of everything on 31 Nash, they should have tune up specs chart, etc

Standard Catalog if US cars shows it does have a 121''WB on 800 series. It also has confusing info on "starting serial number, vs ending serial numbers" for the 800 series. It says starting number was 54928, ending at 61757. a difference of 6829 numbers however the start vs ending number for 800 engine numbers runs from 70124 to 74370. a difference of 4246 numbers also, Nash did use different wheel bolt patters on the different models of 1932 like my car is, so I would assume 1931 also had different patterns between the different series models too. Rare? defining that term is impossible, rarity or low production compared to other makes, does not mean more value on Nash cars. IMO. An 880 is more "uncommon" than a 870 due to original sales pricing in the depression. And as you should know already, a bigger series is generally more desirable to most buyers. Sidemounts are not really rare, maybe half the survivors have them. However on my year 1932, all Nash models had metal spare tire covers on all models, both rear or side spares, at no extra cost. Some cars missing them, maybe half I've seen. Buy an 800 sales brochure online to get more info on such things. Pics on NCCA Nash site, all years, so scroll down to 1931 on this page: http://www.nashcarclub.org/nccaphot/nccaphot.html .

Yes we can email, but the "spam blocking feature" in AACA prevents you from messaging me as you don't have enough posts yet. I honestly don't know if I can send you a message, I should try sending you my email today. I assume your Nash was all complete/correct before taken apart, that makes things easier. My Nash was hauled out of a junkyard or woods and many parts were missing way back then. Then the guy who saved it, 1960s?, before internet, used random car parts just to make it run and maybe drive it someday. He never lived long enough and it showed up at Carlisle Swap in the 80s by a flipper. There was no way for me to trace it back, to see if the unknown estate had any parts from it. Two of many wrong pieces were a 1938 Hudson distributor, and I think the carb was also same Hudson. The distributor was wrong rotation and actually retarded the timing when revved, rather than advancing. I could not find the correct one and worse yet, the distributor driving shaft was modified to fit. I got lucky that the engine from California had the correct distributor and drive rod. But, both engines have wrong and different carbs, and totally different linkages running across the head in two different locations (on the head of each engine). I am struggling today trying to blend the linkages together and reach to the WRONG gas pedal. I am also a fabricator so I will/can figure it out, as I doubt I could ever find the correct bolt-on parts. This Nash has been the hardest car to find spare parts for, that I've ever owned. Too many models each year, too many changes each year, (even half year changes), and it seems nobody saved Nash parts cars. .

You know your own roads, and should know what speeds you need maintain to stay out of peoples way, including HILLS. ...and every vintage car has it's sweet spot as far as it's cruising speed. You will be forced at times to run the car harder to get out of peoples way; no place to safely pull over, etc. I gave up on slow cars years ago, even before cellphones came to be, which then caused more rear end crashes. Todays drivers have been "subconsciously" programmed to only look for modern HUGE tail/brake lights, and also drive at faster road speeds. It's no fun at all spending most of any drive while staring in your rear view mirror. It's stressful. Yes you could ignore them, but it's too dangerous now with cellphone addicts. I had to take faster State Secondary roads to get to lesser travelled roads, but even on slower roads, somebody was always on your tail. I got so tired of trying to find a safe place to pull over so they can pass. It just was not worth the drive. I now drive a modified 1932 car year round as my primary car. Yes, it will go faster than anybody would ever want, but it has small rear lights, (AND a 3rd brakelight) and people just don't look for small lights!! I live on a flat straight stretch of a busy State road where 55mph is the minimum that they drive. I can't tell you how many times a texter is on my tail when I signal, and I NEED to slow down to turn a sharp 90 degree into my driveway! I watch as they swerve at the last second, or honk the horn like I did something wrong.. People today truly suck IMO, they just can't pay attention to driving because of their freaking phones or dashboard TV!!! .. How can your turn into a normal driveway at 55mph!!! My advice is take a normal car out for trips on your own roads, but keep your speeds at 1917 Hupp speeds. Slow way down on hills like the Hupp will. See if you can do it, and still enjoy the ride without looking in the mirror full time, or irritating the resulting tailgaters. After years of daily driving only vintage cars, I can tell you for FACT that the cellphone texters only glance up at the road for a split second, looking to follow YOUR CAR!!!, not looking at the road ahead. I have tried pulling into the guttter to be able to slow down for a side street, and these morons actually follow ME! I could drive right off the road on a curve, and they would follow. I am not exaggerating. 2 power poles were taken down near my house by 2 different texters. I believe i will get hit someday in front of my home.

I spotted the ovaled holes in one post earlier. I'm not sure how I would go at that on thin cast iron. Don't bother saying your plans right now, I prefer to wait for pics of it happening. I've never had a vertical mill, nor an index head to be able braze them up and then get them bored back on precise centers. One regret decades past, I found some long square dark colored cast iron gas welding rods in an old repair garage that dated to the 19-teens. One guy there told me what they were, and that he'd been there for decades and nobody ever used them. I could have taken some, but didn't.

Me too. I don't go to shows, but drive a 1932 car as my primary car year round and when I park wherever, if young kids drag the parents to look, I always say "they can sit in it if you want". If more than one, they scramble to be the one in the drivers seat! I worked too hard on my cars to not want the car to be enjoyed by others. These kids smiles mean the world to me, much more than adult smiles. I have a hidden battery kill switch that is always off whenever I park, so I don't worry if they'd push the starter button on the dash. Hand brake is always on, too. I feel very confident that they won't get hurt.

He put WIRE WHEELS in the TITLE, and you still try to humiliate him? Can we do the 1,000,000th Motor vs Engine one again?

They appear to be 1934 Chevy Master 17", which is measured at where the tire bead sits, so the outer full diameter would be around 18 3/4" or 18 1/2". 1934 Master is a different wheel than a 34 Chevy Standard. Value is very subjective on such common cars. Minimum $25 if sold by each on a local sale/or swap meet, maximum on a good day might be $200 for this set of 5, but I doubt it. If sold online and needing to be shipped, the high shipping fees will keep the prices on the low end, perhaps even less than $25 each. JMO, but I don't think they are in high demand They might be correct for more than just 1934, I'm not a Chevy expert. Some are listed as fitting from 34-36 in ads. I would think 36 is artillery type, not wire ?

Today was the day... My son got 2 more of his friends to help get the body back on with the bucket crawler, and not one thing went wrong, with 3 of us guiding while my son ran the dozer. Had to lift it way, way up to clear the steering shaft and shifter. Single chain from the bucket, hooked to straps on the dash and where the conv top irons mount. Spooky looking dangling on one chain, but enough guys to keep the body level and behaving. .Pic with yellow arrow; That gap is too big big on purpose for now, as I used 4 "too thick" rubber blocks at all 4 corners so there was no chance of hitting the body on the aprons as we worked. Note in most pics that the upper beltlines are just not dark enough to show contrast. I can repaint them later as planned. It was sunny then but when I came back out for pics, it is cloudy again and the dark blue looks very black. They left after I said I did not need help getting the car back in the shop, but I'm worn out and could not push it in later in the day. I had already bolted the driver seat back in as I had more room outdoors, so I decided all I needed to drive it in, was a battery and gravity gas can. It started instantly and idled nice, but no gas pedal or linkage installed yet. So, due to the geared up first/reverse gearing now, I just tickled the clutch in/out slightly, to rock the car enough to go backwards a bit, to get a running start in first gear to make it over the garage floor step. Geez, it felt really good to have it drivable again, first actual movement with the new engine. But....I got out and pulled the jumper wire off the coil, and then saw I needed to go in a bit more. Started it up, and as soon as the clutch pedal was 1/3rd down, a deep squawk noise for a micro-second only, but was then gone, and made no more noises as it was fully to the floor (and still felt normal foot pressure). However it ground the gears no matter what I tried. Same deep squawk for just a split second, only at same 1/3rd down, on each attempt. I am just too worn out to bother jacking it up today to look up where the clutch belly pan is still missing. I will sleep on it. We are supposed to think about "what we did last'', when a certain part stops working. > I had machined the flywheel, and hand riveted NOS genuine GM Chevy clutch facings onto the Nash disc. I don't recall taking the pressure plate apart, but I will read my old posts. The first thought is that the ancient facings were too brittle from age, and tore away from the rivets? I babied the clutch while rocking it, so IDK what's wrong yet.

maybe change the thread title to "ID this flathead 6 with 2 cylinder heads"

That's the shortest and most on-point reply on this never ending subject IMO. Is the cat fighting any different than way back in the earliest days of Hershey when a few of the brass guys were so irate when Model A's were "allowed" to be at the premier "antique" car show? The very few who really pushed that hate and angrily stomped their feet, were people that had some sort of subconscious inferiority complex and "demanded" that the rest of the world know that they are more important than the "unwashed". I've read about the CCCA verbally viscous infighting which almost hints that some members have the elitist mindset when any additional vehicle gets "allowed" into "their" club. The members who pushed for new classifications were said to be ones who felt that the club was too inclusive and stagnant, and therefor causing the club to be losing status, members, or relevancy in the real world. After being in the old car hobby since the 60s, one tiny moment changed my life in a big way: My son and I were being given a tour of a huge private collection by a 69 year old self made "wealthy" guy who had just gotten back from his "Doctors demanded Florida vacation" to get him away his multiple businesses and resulting stresses on his rapidly failing heart. The tour was going very good, descriptive on each one...but then he just froze,.... staring into space for an uncomfortable bit.... then he blurted out: "you know?, I made a lot of money in my life.." then a pause followed by: "and I thought I needed all this". Enjoy your life on "your" terms, not others? . .

I agree that notches are best for race removal, but some random uses of races have no notches, or have no access to the back of the race...on cars, trucks, tools, misc equipment, etc. On those races, most everybody just run a weld around/on the wear face of the race, and it will literally fall out. I know that you and some others don't have a welder, I am just mentioning in case somebody runs into a "blind race" and just might remember this tactic.

The old stuff worked. I don't recall when it got so weak and simply a waste of money. (but still had the same name). I assumed it was some EPA ingredient ban? IDK

If your wheel never had a deeply recessed clutch friction surface, then yes, they normally cut it right out to the edge. But, some flywheels have a very recessed clutch friction surface with a very raised, thick outer edge. If that is what yours had, your flywheel is now just lighter. >>> But, if your pressure plate bolts were on top of that raised edge, now the clutch won't bolt on if the tall raised edge is gone..... even if the threaded holes are still there. I honestly doubt any shop would do that. (Some recessed wheels have the bolt holes down at the recessed surface, and some have the holes on top of the raised edge). Lighter wheel will let the engine rev up easier if it was a lot of weight removed, if a small amount removed, you won't ever be able to notice it. A heavier wheel helps maintain RPM / inertia when the car climbs a very slight short hill without loosing speed as much.

They definitely will predate the modern era date code requirement. I just cannot recall when Sears stopped selling tires for antique cars, not even a good guess on which decade. (it had to be "last Century") LOL. They will sell fast if inspected properly, if they are for resale. New vintage tires are very overpriced and some sizes are backordered right now. In Oct, I bought 10 WWW bias tires, a pair of 15", and 2 full sets of big 16"; at a vintage tractor & engine swap for $10 each. The seller found them...YES, in a dusty Barn at their family members estate. I only wanted 2 15s, but the price was too hard to pass on the rest. I figured somebody would want them. Yes a lot of scrubbing, and during that work I questioned if this was another dumb resale investment Holy cow... they sold so fast when my son put them on Marketplace for me. (all were sold by the end of the same day when listed) The "too late" callers said to call them if i get any more! The oldest looking set for 100, 300 for the best set, the 15s kept for my car. I wish that estate had 100 more. My son was swamped with messages all that morning, all saying they will come right now! I fully expected any calls would first ask how old they were before driving here, or after they came here. I did tell them exactly where they came from, and that I knew they must be at least 2 decades old, but they didn't care. They are not junk if not rock hard or not cracked anywhere, including the bottom of the grooves in the treads when you squish the tire from the sides. Bias tires in good condition are not dangerous "just because they are old" like some brands of radials can be. Disclaimer: deep cracks in sidewalls should not be used even as rollers IMO, as they can rip open instantly when you are inflating them.... even at 20PSI. Here is a badly cracked 70-80? year old tire that started to rip open from just driving outside to photograph the car (and I doubt it had 15PSI). I had to ratchet strap a piece of steel over it so i could get it back in the shop before I ruined the tube. Yes, an old thick USA tube is better than a thin chicom new one, IMO.

I recently saw a post someplace about the 1964-65 Worlds Fair Ford "Skyway" ride cars that ran on rails. I never knew Ford resold those ride cars as used cars after the fair. They showed a survivor Skyway Mustang conv and it still had thick steel plates with empty bolt-holes welded onto the sub frame (these welded on brackets attached/bolted the car to the track rails). Ford never cut them off.

I just looked in my 1957 Olds factory parts book that goes back to the 1951 cars too. That book has good full page linkage/bellcrank diagrams for 1951 88 as well as showing a different one for 1951 98. This book only shows one linkage/bellcrank setup for any 324 year, a 1956, but it's for the 56 Jetaway not a 56 Hydramatic. (Your car likely has a Hydramatic, unless they swapped in a 56 324 with the Jetaway A/T) The 1956 324 base model 88 A/T was the older style Hydramatic, and all 1956 super 88's and 98's used the new Jetaway. If I knew which year intake manifold and carb you have, I can take a pic of the correct diagram. If you needed a 54-55 diagram which would be the Hydramatic, I'd need to find my 1955 book to see if Olds ever made that diagram.

Olds carb and Hydramatic trans linkages were overly complicated in the 1950s. You will be looking for a lot of parts unless you get the whole setup from a junked car. On the 324's I have had, they used a bell crank system mounted to the intake manifold and then that pushes the carb link forward and the modulator link to trans comes from that bellcrank also. The trans link needs to be set up correctly so that the trans gets more fluid pressure as the throttle is increased. Is the original 2 barrel manifold from the 1951 303, or is it from the later 324? The port openings at the heads are different. 303 is very small, 324 is much bigger. Bolt patterns are the same. Test fit the intake gaskets if using a 303 manifold on 324 heads. I am nearly sure it will seal OK if you use 324 gaskets. You cannot use 303 gaskets with a 303 intake on 324 heads, it won't seal.