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rocken

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About rocken

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  • Birthday 01/07/1948

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  1. Thank you for the reply. I agree that there is something suspicion about the switch. Do you have someone you would recommend for repair? I have not been in contact with any Skylark group. Would you have a recommendation there? I did a quick search on the internet, but didn't find one that seemed to specialize in the older Skylark. Also did a search of the part number, but nothing there. Thanks again for your help! Ken
  2. Sorry for the confusion, there are no motors under the seat, only two hydraulic hydraulic cylinders. They work as you described. Sorry I can't provide a picture. The owner took the car home yesterday to beat the snow. I think the switch is the problem, I am a little hesitant to take it apart but since it doesn't work anyway, I may as well. I have been looking for a switch, but the only ones I find are the ones that would plug in to a plug that would match the wiring diagram. Thank you for all your help! I will probably take the switch apart and see if there is anything I
  3. Here is a pic. of the front of the switch. The cylinders under the seat will click. If I am testing the switch the way I think it should work, it is not working. I put 12V on the feed ( center pole ) and moved the knob one way, and have power, the other way, nothing. move to the up position and have power, move to the down position, have power also. I'm not convinced this is even the correct switch for the car. The solder on the bottom looks like someone was trying to make it work for this seat. The owner said the seat has never worked since he has owned the car. It was not plugged in when it
  4. Thanks John, just double checked, and they are all tight. The plug will fit either way, and one way only the motor will work for forward/ back, and the other way only the cylinders will click.
  5. Here are some more pics. Maybe they will help. I have no idea what the soldering is about!
  6. There are two. I can adjust the seat up and down and forward and back by using jumper wires in the plug contacts, but not with the switch. I am thinking that either the switch is wrong or the plug. There are only four wires, a pink, orange, orange with black tracer in the plug, and a separate single orange. The wiring diagram shows five,and colors don't completely match. I'll get some more pictures tomorrow. Thanks!
  7. Found a diagram on Hometown Buicks web site, but the plug in the car does not match the one on the web. I can get a picture of it tomorrow. There are 3 wires on a plug, and one separate wire that is for the up / down.
  8. I am working on a 54 Skylark convertible for a friend, and the power seat does not work when using the switch. I can remove the switch plug, use some jumpers and make the seat work. I sent the switch to Hydro-E-Lectric under the impression that they could repair it. They called after receiving the switch and said that they do not repair them, but checked it , and that it was good. I received it today, and plugged it in, and it still does not operate the seat. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the plug? Maybe someone at one time put the wires in the plug in the wrong spot. Also, someone has
  9. Thanks to all !! Shop manual is on the way. I will get the leak stopped first and then use whatever fluid the owner wants. I'm guessing at least a gallon do do the job? Thanks again!
  10. Thanks for the replies! What is the best way to remove the brake fluid? I really don't want to remove every line. Can alcohol be put in the reservoir and pumped through the system? Will any traces of brake fluid mix with the ATF? Thanks again!
  11. I am working on a 54 Skylark convertible, and have one top cylinder leaking. Whoever did the restoration used hard line with some curly cues to allow for movement, and it appears that one of the flares did not seal. I would think that there should be flexible lines off the cylinders instead of hard line all the way to the distribution block. If anyone has pictures, I would love to see how it should be done. Also the power seat does not operate. I can hear a thump, but no movement. Anyone have experience with the seat cylinders? Are there reproductions available, or suggestions as where to hav
  12. Tedd, After more research, I found a small thin ground embedded in the rubber. Same thing, no contact, so I soldered it. Hope it holds, cause it looks like the bumper would have to come off to remove the guards to get at the license plate housings. Either that or someone with real small hands! Thanks!! Ken
  13. Glenn, Thanks for the info! I thought that was the way it should be connected, but since it wasn't connected anywhere, ya never know. As for the lights, yes they are in the guards, but are incased in rubber! If I touch a ground to the socket, they will light. The rubber looks like something that could have been factory, but not being grounded makes no sense! Thanks again! Ken
  14. I am working on a 54 Olds 88 with power brakes(treadle vac) there is a valve located in the vacuum line going to the vacuum reservoir that has an electrical connection on it, does anyone know where it should be connected at the other end? Should it be hot with the key on? or only when the brake lights are on? Also the license plate lights do not work. After investigating, the bulb sockets are mounted in a rubber gasket, looks original, how are they supposed to be grounded? Any help is appreciated!!
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