F&J

"Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942" by Beverly Rae Kimes and Henry Austin Clark Jr. Huge reference book, illustrated. You won't be disappointed. Much cheaper on ebay compared to Amazon. EBAY links: I have the older original version with yellow cover: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw="Standard+Catalog+of+American+Cars+1805-1942"&_sacat=0&_sop=15

If you list it for sale online, be careful saying it's NOS after it's cleaned up, because the 6 sided cam lobe will still be pitted and any pits will destroy the rubbing block on the points very quickly.....it may lead to reversal of payment if sold online. or bad feedback on ebay etc

Added info as sagefinds was posting the year: The "big book" that many of the members have shows it to be 1926. The book also explains that there are also "unit numbers" on various assemblies on the car, seemingly all starting with a "1-" then a number, and they say the numbers don't always match the engine ID number. Interesting that they say that there is no serial number for the car itself on the body/etc, and the ID number of the car itself is the engine number. There was no mention of the star, but Ford cars used the same star in front of, and at the rear of their car ID numbers on their chassis, So, I'd say your number with the star is the correct car/engine number, not the number starting with 1-

i was not referring to you.

You received plenty of thumbs up, but you failed to also say that you are the business owner, not some lifelong hourly employee. This thread was you offering a young person a tour of your shop ...well then I'd bet as you introduce her to each employee, that you won't disclose to her how low their hourly wage is "Compared to unrelated, yet also very skilled occupations" , I'm not trying to make enemies with that statement, but with me being "near" to the auto trades for almost as long as you have, the auto related trades will never supply an "employee" with a great lifelong wage. It's a very underpaid career for an "employee". The only way out of "just getting by", is to get into something else or be self employed like Rusty said about being a home based upholstery craftsman. Some towns like mine do allow such low traffic home businesses, but never allow auto repairing, painting, etc. One other person besides you today, posted the same idea that money isn't everything. Yet he too, (I believe) has his own business. I ask both of you a simple question: "Would you work your entire working years as an employee earning what both of you pay an employee as well as what you offer for benefits. I'm only posting reality for the readers that have no idea just how underpaid and under-benefitted, an hourly auto-related worker really is. On your side of the fence, yes, I understand that you employers have to pay a LOT in government fees and other things for each employee besides "just their paycheck". But it does not change the fact that it's not a great life choice to be a auto related "employee" for a life career. That is my only point here, we are talking about guiding a person to a life long path. I just can't sugar coat it.

I'm not up on those cars. Hold the bar up with cables attached to help locate where it hooks to. First, flip the small bar 180 so the rear cables can attach as designed. On some other brands I've seen just a rectangular hole in the crossmember or frame rail. Maybe a Fomoco person here can advise.

The bulb is corroded solidly in the head and sometimes when unscrewing the brass fitting, that breaks the capillary tube off. There are companies that will rebuild your gauge and install new parts.

Yes the frame-hook end holds some of it up, but the cables, when adjusted properly, also help hold everything up. In other words, if the cables are way too slack, then everything except the frame-hook end will be hanging down quite a bit.

got to start somewhere.. pic number 3 has nothing to do with brake. pic 4.... the j-bracket at far right is a battery hold down. The assembly in center of pic 4 is a device to equalize the pulling of both rear cables, as well as a leverage multiplier. The 2 red circles are not for the rear twin cables; the lower red circle one acts as a pivot and hooks into the chassis or a crossmember. The upper red circle one is where the main front cable hooks to, meaning the cable to the foot pedal. The 2 rear cables hook into the smaller bar that you marked as "Mountings". But it's facing the wrong way in relation to the longest bar. Swing one part around 180 degrees. i'm going to assume the spring might hook to the longest bar to act as a return assist.

Yes, that butterfly or throttle plate should be able to be shut completely on most carbs brands, by loosening the "idle SPEED screw". You don't want to to be totally closed, but your 1/8" is way too much. Carb mixture adjustments won't have much effect if the throttle is too far open and engine running way to fast, It has to be running at a slow idle to properly adjust idle mixture.

yes, either 32 or 33. I almost think I can see "Ambassador" on the window card, if it was the next model down, it would say "Advanced 8" and i don't think it shows that extra digit?? . Anyways, i posted only to say that the owner of the most impressive private collection of these Nash cars finally shared 2 group pics of "some" ? of his cars on the Nash "free photo club site". He did, or still does have individual pics on the Paid Member photo site on NCCA. AJ, if you wondered why you can't get a big Nash, look at this link. This guy went "Nuts for Nash" I bet the gold car is the same one in the link. The wheel color is different, but the car is missing bumper, so it was a resto being finished or being changed a bit. Collection is in same State as the show, so it has to be it. IMO http://www.nashcarclub.org/nccaphot/thirty/32_Lentz Garage-4508.html .

Yes, Chevy. The odd front spring anchors on the frame sides are for angled-outwards 1/4 elliptical leaf springs used on the 490. I also recognize the 2nd crossmember in from the front as being 490.

Most locking handles from that era, the handle gets locked solid to the outer escutcheon plate. (The handle cannot turn when locked) When unlocked, it's only then when the handle can rotate. As far as antitheft deterrents, that escutcheon plate cannot rotate if the 2 screws are removed to defeat the door handle lock to steal the car because there are 1/4" long guide tubes that are part of the escutcheon plate going into the door skin holes (that the screws go through). And, you cannot just pull the handle and escutcheon outwards a bit so it can turn, because the square-drive shaft is interlocked to the latch as another theft deterrent. You have to fiddle with partially rotating the latch piece about 45 degrees to allow the square shaft to finally release and have the handle be removable. The door needs to be open to do that as further theft deterrent.

It was shredded coconut husks bonded together with a rubbery type glue. VW seat pads in original coconut fibers were once reproduced, I don't know if that has now gone to foam. Try the older well know VW parts places. Like West Coast Metric, Wolfsburg West, and do a web search for other VW suppliers. If you have a Porsche, then search for that brand of suppliers. I just spotted a link to the coconut padding at Wolfsburg West: https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/interior/headliner_seats/seat_components.cfm?type=1

Ex-Dealer VW aircooled mechanic: Do not use lockwashers. Find the original high quality machined, thicker flat washers that are way better than a cheap thin stamped hardware store flat washer. there were differences in 1600 engines because as VW increased HP, AND torque went up, then some people did not downshift enough on long hills because it had more torque. That lugging up hills and the higher heat from more smog rules would cause the cylinder head stud threads to "pull" or "strip" out of the engine case. The older 1600s had thick head studs (10mm) that could not "stretch and then contract" when engine was cold or then hot, so VW came out with thin diameter studs (8mm in center but still 10mm threads), called "stretchy studs" and these also used steel threaded inserts in the case at every stud. These two things fixed the stripped head stud issues. (when the studs stripped with age and miles, the heads got loose, and when engine is cold, the engine sounded like bad exhaust leaks with popping sounds. When a shop gets a bug motor for rebuild, they first will try to torque the heads to specs to see if the threads are holding, before they take it apart to rebuild. It sucks to rebuild the engine only to feel the studs stripping as you assemble the heads onto engine.

there are several more videos there using search for Motsinger Auto Sparker.

I had a similar one 45 years ago in same rusted condition and it did sell at a swapmeet to a stationary engine guy. I just don't recall what the buyer said about what it does. The brand I had was "Motsinger Autp Sparker". I found a thread on "Smokestak" engine website but they have a block on copying the link. Look at the comments there by searching the brandname, one thread comments mostly said they are used by friction, running off of the flywheel of a stationary engine, but one commenter said also used on a very early fire engine. It seems it was used to make current to run a buzzcoil, but hopefully somebody here knows everything about them and exactly how they were used.

1934 Diamond T truck

Model T it might be for 26 27 if we knew if the drums were made for bolt on wire wheels instead of earlier wood wheels that don't have that bolt pattern like wires do.

It is older. 1912 and newer used the 4 cyl watercooled. This one has the higher mounted hand crank going through a faux radiator so it's the 2 cyl aircooled used from 1909 to 1911. A Metz expert could share some info on how to tell if this is the early 2 cyl Plan Car which was sold in payments of around $25-$50 and the company shipped you another crate of parts to eventually assemble a complete car if you made enough payments. I think the 1911 was factory built, not kit form. Not sure if the 1910 was factory assembled or kit form. Lost Metz history that nobody seems to care about these days.

Part of a full wheel cover, ....from the 60s?

Chevy from 58 to mid/late 60s. It has side motor mount holes on block so it's not 55-57, but it has the old style road draft crankcase ventilation that was used to mid/later 60s. It has plug wire looms holders used on the older style rams horn exhaust manifolds from those years.

From Standard Catalog of US Cars: Serial Number on right side of rear crossmember...OR under left front fender. (These might likely would be stamped into the frame metal and not on a tag) numbers ran from 649001 to 729000

From what I strain to see in the yellow pics.....2 things: First: See the seam of the 2 metal parts of the seal 'holder"? It faces in, towards in inside of engine, so that leads to it being correct. Second: if my eyes are not misleading me, the old seal material appears to be leather or other fibrous material just like the 1938 car would have had when new. IF your old seal really was leather, it looks like it was installed correctly, because the leather was shaped with a taper, and with the largest diameter of that tapering facing to the front. That's so the hub can slide in without tearing the leather, as well as sealing better from inside blowby pressures. Older repro seals likely were still made with leather or similar material. In semi-modern times, seals were redesigned to use rubber, single or two lip designs.

Classic case of miscommunication, i have no idea why Jack decided to post a message he wrote BEFoRE you turned the seal around. Ok, he maybe still wanted to tell you about wear groove in crank, but to avoid any misunderstanding, he should have removed the first part about you having the seal installed wrong....because it seems he says he wrote that before ypu turned it around. You have it installed correctly. Here's two more things that help determine that it is correct. You can see on one of your latest pics that there is a very tiny "lip" facing the radiator. That is a dust shield that is supposed to help keep the larger lip from getting abrasives on it. (M-Mann just this moment replied with same info but I'll keep going). One more thing that shows you have it correct; is that there are 2 pieces of steel for that seal. The seam where they join, faces the inside of the engine on every seal like that, that I am aware of in over 50 years.