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On 5/8, Seller reduced price to $74,995.

On 5/8/24, Seller reduced price to $14,900.

It was removed from a 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton truck .

Has any Locomobile or other makes been in a bind and damaged in the areas where the twisters are whipping the mid-west?\ Al

Hello have for sale a all original 52 dodge 1/1/2/ton flatbed dump with grain sides all original Mt. farm truck I have to many projects and would like to see someone enjoy this thanks

I have two observations. First I have flown great distances and paid for a hotel room and rental car to inspect vehicles I had every intention of purchasing if they generally were as represented. Usually at this point the price was already agreed with the seller. I always take a legal pad or have my journal page opened with my list of questions to ask or items to confirm. I make the list based on thoughts over the days leading up to the trip. I usually buy the vehicle even though I carry a pad… Second, everyone has a different monetary value system and some people get a quick power trip from offering $2 when $10 is perfectly appropriate. I find that type of offer extremely small minded and agree with the sellers above who responded with searing wit to the rude buyer. I was told that the value of an amount of money depends on the person. $1,000,000 is an unfathomable amount to those who work hard and are barely making ends meet. $1,000,000 is everything “all in” to someone who worked their whole life and is living off that $1,000,000 nest egg. $1,000,000 would be a significant investment to someone worth $10,000,000 but they could afford to lose it without much drama (and the after tax loss would possibly be “only” $600,000). For someone worth $100,000,000 or more $1,000,000 is pocket change; that much rolls in every 2 to 3 months from investment income. All the same amount of money but oh so much difference in value.

I sell at Hershey and I don't mind a little haggling, I expect it and on most things 10% or so won't hurt my feelings. The one thing that bugs me is when the buyer says something like " that's all I can spend" or "that's all the money I have left". That's not my problem? I once gave in to a fellow that used that line. He pulled out a huge wad of cash to pay me and I said "I thought your offer was all the money you had left". He handed me the money, smiled, took the part and walked away. Lesson learned.

Willard invented storage batteries? No.

I look at photos of when I first got my Lincoln and it had whitewalls and it looks odd to me now. You'll definitely get accustomed to it.

Not quite as much shop time this week as my oldest is home on leave though yesterday he gave me a hand spreading 2 yards of mulch around the fence line of the compound - sure made light work of it. Today I got the new battery in the '31 Pontiac, along with lubing the brake pedal linkage. At the moment it likes to stick a bit keeping the brake lights on. I'll see if it frees up as the lube works it way through in the next week or so but it might be time to swap out the return spring. Something to keep an eye on. A fresh battery and good ground strap and this car spins over and fires right up - even with the old battery there was no issue with getting ignition. Next up will be a set of plugs - no idea how long these ones have been in the car but definitely time for fresh ones

Queensland, Australia, 1935. New Buick wireless patrol cars. These are Buick Series 40 sedans with bodies built by Holdens. About 1600 of them were built over the 1934-35 period. The different appearance of them is more pronounced at the rear. The second photo, showing how different the Holden body is at the rear, is my grandparents' car in 1960 when it had become the 'spare' car. It had lost its original taillights in an accident quite early in its life. It is still in the shed but probably not an economical restoration prospect. These were not sold new in NZ. NZ sourced its Buick from Flint. This one was privately imported in 1946.

from that photo, the engine looks quite original - paint job is unlikely to be original, most were green (but the build sheet would tell you) Bit concerning they don't know it's a type 61 though... It's a big powerful car (for the time) but there are some very expensive parts

Also, it will take some getting used to the car with blackwalls instead of whitewalls. I am so used to seeing most cars with whitewalls

Does anyone have a source for the springs that go inside of the drag link? I have tried all the normal sources with no success. These are 15/16 in diam. and just under 1 in. long. These are for a u133 1930 dodge 1 ton truck with the solid drag link. Thanks George

I have a number of tool boxes I bought used. One thing that always seems to be missing is the keys. I have 2 Craftsman bottom boxes. 4 of thier top boxes. 1 mid box, a side box, 2 wood machinist chests, a little roll around home owner box for fixing doors, cabinets, locks etc. And I still would like more space. I have to keep the power tools on shelves. ...J.D.

Thanks Matt. I knew there was a tech savvy guy here that could do that I agree with your comments about the trim rings, etc.

I decided to go with metal shims for now, I picked up different types of rubber sheeting, soft plastic, hard plastic and canvas backed rubber conveyor belting, the only one that looks like it won’t distort and mush out was the hard plastic and it was not going to give at all so the only feature would be prevention of squeak in the future over metal. I have the measurements of the thickness I need and I am open to suggestions of what I should try, not a horrible amount of time to relieve a small amount of pressure to remove bolt. On another note my lug bolts have a very small head and are worn and the wheels on the car which are thick and heavy have a slight amount of wear in the countersink area, not Wollowed out, question was anyone ever traded out the small headed lug bolts for the modern replacement which is one wrench size bigger and the head has the same angle beveled as original, but there is more surface ?

I still have 4 shocks as mentioned earlier. Let me know if you want 1, 2, or all 4.

Not my best work, but quick and dirty and gives you an idea of how it would look. I am a new convert to blackwalls and have grown to really appreciate the subtlety. You have bright trim rings, so that makes all the difference. Add in the lower maintenance and cheaper buy-in, and I think it's a no-brainer.

Another flubbed sale. The buyer should have said he just thought he,d like to support both rental places. The rental place should have said he appreciated that and he,d give him a one time discount. Then explain why his stuff was a better deal. Sale made. Profit pocketed. Good will created. The art of the sale......bob

K31, every little bit of info helps. As shown in the photos I posted, that wood cross piece has one leaf of a hinge, but it is behind the back braces, so still trying to figure out how it originally worked to secure seats for roadsters. Since Roadster seat back is tight against tub, must have lifted vertically I'm guessing. So few CD8's around, hard to get answers. Perhaps V. Milke will give us a glimpse of what his passenger seat back looks like?

The book explains the difference. Talks about the hundreds of patents in Willard's name with no restriction on use. I guess we can believe what we believe.

Update incoming. Brakes still work great, so that accumulator is definitely working out. The Speed Sensor had no effect, still no speedometer...guess the instrument cluster is the problem. Not a big deal. Odometer and trip still work fine. Engine seems to run great, idling well and not sputtering about. Feels smooth, fun to drive. Only thing was the oil pressure gauge points at 7 o'clock when hot and idling at a stop light, and the "Low Oil" light comes on until I start moving again. I dunno...this seems fine to me? I had a dodge dynasty that acted similarly. Am I wrong? Now for the transmission. Once it gets up to I guess 3rd gear and going into 4th, somewhere around there, it feels like it can't decide if it wants to shift or engage the torque converter or do both and is slippery but it goes away once it figures it out (until next time). The fluid looked and smelled fine to me. The car was definitely hot and it was measuring to the tippity top of the hot area, filling in that highest hole on the dipstick while following the instructions in the owner's manual. Maybe the input/output things on the transmission? Or, the TCM? hopefully an honest transmission shop will be able to diagnose and hopefully an easy fix. What do ya'll think? Is this common?

kings32, these folks should be able to help you with your radio. https://mykmlifestyle.com/

I found this by answering another ad. It is for sale with no price yet. Part of an estate. I asked about the Harleys also. If anyone here is interested in either, I'll pass along the information when I get it.