Dundee Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Off to Adelaide with my son who will be doing a stint of school based work experience at the nephews resto shop for a week and seems they would rather he mess up my car than any other clients so we are looking to get some work done there first week of May. It hasn't t been totally dormant other than sourcing more parts last year but we were distracted as you may remember by a supposed earlier engine rebuild that lacked the finer care and attention such as..new cam old lifters, bent push rods, rust in head from sitting for 15 years, all the gunk left in engine, filthy rocker assembly and in sump so you get the picture it had to broken down totally. Reminder photos of the old and now almost done for you. Let's just say it still has been costing a few dollars but I don't know how I will repay my brother who did all the engine work. Just to add to the fun the transmission was approached with the same suspicion and upon opening up it seems it was treated with the same disregard by the last owner. Fortunately with parts from a dynaflow the trans guy had and new parts available they have basically rebuilt the transmission... Anyway look forward to reuniting myself with the car that is over 1000 miles from me and making a start, will keep the updates flowing while we are on the job.. Stay tuned! 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt56 Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Thats some very nice progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGerman Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Just noticed, the driver side outside head bolts connecting the PS-Pump bracket are not in correct order. Is this a plastic timing chain sprocket ? Maybe a good time to change over to a True Roller Timing chain with solid steel sproket (TA performance). 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Thanks for any keen eye there..Brother just digging out other parts including PS and brackets I will see if he picks it up before I get there next week otherwise onto it then... Well we had a new plastic or nylon whatever it is in a box and given the old one lasted 117,ooo miles we stuck with it, right or wrong the bucks have to stop flowing somewhere. Appreciate you thoughts though we had considered all these things along the way.. Ciao Dundee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Well after 1 year we are reunited with the 63 and although all on the outside looks shiny we again took a step backwards before going forward. Seats out - Wiring looms out to get cleaned wrapped, terminal cleans and tested and getting the firewall plug out was testing with old hard rubber grommet. Yes have to move a couple head bolts for power steering and alternator brackets. Anyone who can share a side shot of PS would be great as thinking other than front and rear bracket there is a slim support bracket going on somewhere there. Dash back out to fit eyeball vents as well as heater core and floor duct vents, their days could be over as purchased VA Gen 5 and looking to clean up the firewall look from engine bay side with the rh conversion there are a few holes with plates on them. was a bit hectic today so will get more photos tomorrow for another update need sleep 🥱 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 I removed and repaired my '64 Riviera back in the early 1990s and it still looks very good. I used a non-adhesive (cohesive) wiring harness tape from the Chrysler guys at Year One:https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hwrap2#prettyPhoto When I unwrapped the harnesses I paid attention to the factory method. I followed it faithfully. To make it easier I made this simple jig to hook the terminal blocks on. This allowed me to keep tension on the branches of wires with one hand while I wrapped them. Maybe later today I can get a piece of harness in the jig for a demonstration. I had to order the purple #12 wire for the starter and paint the Apple Green temperature sensor with Krylon. It came out great. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedeDownUnderR63 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 (edited) 14 hours ago, Dundee said: Well after 1 year we are reunited with the 63 and although all on the outside looks shiny we again took a step backwards before going forward. Seats out - Wiring looms out to get cleaned wrapped, terminal cleans and tested and getting the firewall plug out was testing with old hard rubber grommet. Yes have to move a couple head bolts for power steering and alternator brackets. Anyone who can share a side shot of PS would be great as thinking other than front and rear bracket there is a slim support bracket going on somewhere there. Dash back out to fit eyeball vents as well as heater core and floor duct vents, their days could be over as purchased VA Gen 5 and looking to clean up the firewall look from engine bay side with the rh conversion there are a few holes with plates on them. was a bit hectic today so will get more photos tomorrow for another update need sleep 🥱 I am not certain what you are looking for in side photos of the PS but here are some from my 63. Is it original? I guess it is. Edited April 27 by SwedeDownUnderR63 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 (edited) there should also be a brace from motor mount to underside front of pump bracket. It's about 3/4"× 15 Edited April 27 by gungeey (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 (edited) On 4/26/2024 at 7:54 AM, Dundee said: Well after 1 year we are reunited with the 63 and although all on the outside looks shiny we again took a step backwards before going forward. Seats out - Wiring looms out to get cleaned wrapped, terminal cleans and tested and getting the firewall plug out was testing with old hard rubber grommet. Yes have to move a couple head bolts for power steering and alternator brackets. Anyone who can share a side shot of PS would be great as thinking other than front and rear bracket there is a slim support bracket going on somewhere there. Dash back out to fit eyeball vents as well as heater core and floor duct vents, their days could be over as purchased VA Gen 5 and looking to clean up the firewall look from engine bay side with the rh conversion there are a few holes with plates on them. was a bit hectic today so will get more photos tomorrow for another update need sleep 🥱 Ron, Here is another shot of the bracket Steve has pictured above. Bill Edited April 27 by Riviera63 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 Thanks Jan Steve and Bill that has explained for me and yes that was the brace I was looking for ! I had it labeled by wasn’t sure how it mounted. Also I note some different options for the negative connection to engine what was the original location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 Having a day off today and in Monday getting a visit from Rodney Beauchamp and Rodger the new owner of his 63 for a show and tell and to take a few photos etc..😎 So the biggest problem we have headed into is cleaning up firewall from Old RH conversion and in particular getting things unbolted with a coating of black on everything has seen lots of snapped bolts, grinding and yes the heater core is out of the picture with new a/c so installing a new plate in front of the firewall to give it a fresh look. The dash is also rough and can’t find that rustoleum matte Nickel down here so it might be a trip to paint shop to get a sample copy. Question is what on the console and dash is original as a lot of the dash looks flat silver while metal access covers under dash look gloss. What is the finish of the dash flat semi or gloss? fitting eyeball vents (thanks Bill) is a challenge also especially on the RHS with space between instruments and outer leaving no gap. Not a great look but perhaps the price for having original vents. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulldogDriver Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Vintage Air makes an evaporator for left hand drive cars? Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 From a service bulletin - to the back of the power steering pump bracket. This illustration also shows the correct POS and NEG battery cable connections. POS cable between the battery and the hood down bolt. This was a mid year change to keep the POS cable away from the larger of the two trumpet horns - possible problem with the horn grounding with the POS cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 3 hours ago, Dundee said: Thanks Jan Steve and Bill that has explained for me and yes that was the brace I was looking for ! I had it labeled by wasn’t sure how it mounted. Also I note some different options for the negative connection to engine what was the original location? Ron, As Ed pointed out. It connects to the rear of the power steering pump. I apologize for the poor picture. No light in my winter storage garage. My phone did not want to focus. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 14 hours ago, RivNut said: From a service bulletin - to the back of the power steering pump bracket. This illustration also shows the correct POS and NEG battery cable connections. POS cable between the battery and the hood down bolt. This was a mid year change to keep the POS cable away from the larger of the two trumpet horns - possible problem with the horn grounding with the POS cable. Think the block sounds better than ps bracket, seems originality has slipped away on this build. If looking for that I would have to consider buying a LHD!! thanks Ed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 Hi all still an outstanding thought on the dash finish as to whether it appears Matt, semi or gloss in appearance also I notice the instrument housing is usually blue and wonder if this was to create a bluish light for the dials? Seems I have lots of silver sprayed on it from the conversion. Also I removed the steering column chrome cover behind the wheel and found that there is a little more chrome behind it. This ring is attached to more that is non chrome and spot welded to steering column so removing and chromium plating looks a nightmare or out right impossible, am I right??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 The light blue pant gives the lights their blue hue. The blue paint is also in the reflector for the shift lever indicator. Paint them what ever color is pleasing to your eye. We had a Pontiac one time in which all of the instruments reflected orange because the housings were painted orange. Red/orange light does not affect your night vision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 Not massive progress on the car today but actually viewed my first operational 63 and a 97 Riviera today as Rodney Beauchamp with 97 and Roger new owner of the 63 came down to show their cars and have a look at my 63 project. Quick coffee and long chat that could have gone on…especially to enjoy their rides a little more however having only a week to get what we can done it will have to be another day. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 On 4/27/2024 at 12:01 PM, Dundee said: So the biggest problem we have headed into is cleaning up firewall from Old RH conversion OMG, I hope you have a plan to install that Firewall Bulkhead Connector! Coating the rubber grommet with soap does not work, even with a crowbar. Do you have the rubber grommet? Places like Classic Industries show a small (for trucks) and a large (for cars). But the '63 Riviera has an even larger 12 circuit version and not reproduced. I made a mold of mine but when presented to a Steele Rubber Representative at a major car event, not much interest. I can provide instructions on how to re-install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 8 hours ago, XframeFX said: OMG, I hope you have a plan to install that Firewall Bulkhead Connector! Coating the rubber grommet with soap does not work, even with a crowbar. Do you have the rubber grommet? Places like Classic Industries show a small (for trucks) and a large (for cars). But the '63 Riviera has an even larger 12 circuit version and not reproduced. I made a mold of mine but when presented to a Steele Rubber Representative at a major car event, not much interest. I can provide instructions on how to re-install. I won’t say the plug and grommet were easy to remove however by spraying some crc to soften and slowly working outward around the edges from inside the car while someone worked the outside pushing the socket it pushed through and then the grommet pushed outward. Soaked in some cleaner for a day or so and then sprayed again and pushed the grommet back in. Haven’t reloaded the plug yet however as still some loom wrapping to finish. see how that goes??! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 Fire wall tidied up on outside and insulated inside ready for booster, master and ac unit. Still no one rushing to cut those special holes for the ac eyeball vents🙃. Lots of prep on dash and console and the one tab I had left (that likes to break) did when the windy day decided to blow the console off the table😭. awaiting an attempt from paint shop to create an argent silver look a like. Some problem parts from Cars such as rocker cover grommets too big for holes, anyone have a solution especially considering there is a slight counter sink around the holes. Not sure if normal or from an over tightening in the past. Will post a second thread regarding a question on the heads 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 (edited) So back again and looking at some photos of ac and non ac caters the water flow for heater looks to run between thermostat housing and water pump. I think this was from the last after market ac where there are connections from the heads front right and rear left. Trying to view some photos of other set ups I think possibly the front right maybe ripe for the water temp sensor and for the left rear, plug it??? Also on the rear housing down low there is a brass nipple …oil pressure sensor??? Edited April 30 by Dundee (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 (edited) For your dash, the color you are looking for would be Dull Aluminum, but not a metallic. Yes brass fitting is oil sender locationthe fitting is for aftermarket gauge 63 64 65 all have different heater hose configurations. First two years (don't know which yours is) are a cluster$$gůčk from the beginning. What you have now is a bastardized version, someone with experience in aftermarket A/C should be able to help plan out your system Edited April 30 by gungeey (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Do you know what the pipe coming from the rear of the head was used for previously? That port is usually plugged. The left and right heads are identical. When that port is at the front of the engine, on the other bank, it’s used for the temp sending unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I have researched the dash finishes via the actual components, assembly manuals and specified paint codes for those dash components; the finish on the dash parts should be flat from the horizontal molding immediately under the instrument pods and higher. Everything below that molding is semi gloss. The filler moldings at the outside ends of the dash are both flat and semi gloss with the break line corresponding to where those moldings form both the end of the instrument panel and the continuation of the lower dash. The factory chose those finishes to reduce glare. That is why the wiper arms are unpolished....but ironically, the blades were supplied polished. Over the years I've been asked by members if the wiper arms were originally unpolished and whether it is possible to polish them to a high luster. I have responded that they are able to be polished but the factory had good reason not to. I have had a handful of members get back to me to say they are sorry they did so because the glare from the wip er arms is significant and very irritating. Tom Mooney 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 6 hours ago, Dundee said: Soaked in some cleaner for a day or so and then sprayed again and pushed the grommet back in. What . . . ! Already done? You must've had more elbow room being in a state of dis-assembly. I tried several strategies with two stubborn rubber grommets going out and then back in. I ended up cutting the original knowing I had an equally stubborn spare for re-install. I soaked my 2nd grommet in Armour-All for weeks. The Australian Sun might be helpful as well! Also with the same harness was restoring the decrepit Fuse Block with rusty clips. Turns-out, three lengths of #6 Ready-Rod and sacrificing an electrical cover of the correct diameter made it a breeze (note the 3 contacts still to re-insert): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 7 hours ago, RivNut said: Do you know what the pipe coming from the rear of the head was used for previously? That port is usually plugged. The left and right heads are identical. When that port is at the front of the engine, on the other bank, it’s used for the temp sending unit. We think it could have been the old ac however it was an under dash unit and not sure if it included heat. Those fittings don’t look factory. The heater core and valve may have still be in play however though the rear exit in the thermostat housing is plugged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 2 hours ago, XframeFX said: What . . . ! Already done? You must've had more elbow room being in a state of dis-assembly. I soaked my 2nd grommet in Armour-All for weeks. The Australian Sun might be helpful as well! Also with the same harness was restoring the decrepit Fuse Block with rusty clips. yes we had a direct line to everything on both sides. Fuse block to get new ss clips.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt56 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Thats some really nice progress you are making. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Well as every lad loves an engine my son had his day painting the nailhead today. We used etch primer the 2 coats Dupli Color high heat ceramic Aluminium and 2 coats clear high temp. and all in all think it came up okay. The alternator and power steering brackets have been chromed but got damaged by rodent pee so need a re finish. The boy and I are arguing over either the chrome or a contrast silver or some other pop colour…not sure 🤔 The dash and console got painted late today and only got a brief viewing. Looking forward to seeing the colour tomorrow. It’s a made up formula with a bit more bling.🤞🤞 and will be used on the hood liner trim mouldings. some sad news that we just didn’t have space to mount the original eyeball AC vents on the driver side so we have been forced to go with the aftermarket vintage air chrome eyeball fitting while maintaining the original centre vent. after a whole lot of sanding on the fuel tank, it was a good thing as we discovered that there were holes repaired in the tank so likely proceeding with the tank liner tomorrow. The tank is going to be painted in the same colour as the dash and console but with a clear gloss finish. catch you tomorrow! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Why don't you just buy a new tank??? By the time & $$$$ you spend to have it re-done you could purchase a new tank. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 4 hours ago, telriv said: By the time & $$$$ you spend to have it re-done you could purchase a new tank. Probably not to Australia. Shipping to my door north of the border is INTERNATIONAL and might as well cost the same as shipping to Cameroon Africa! USPS or FEDEX (w/account), the least worst. I had the pin-hole leak in my tank repaired at an Industrial Radiator shop that was kind enough to accept my little job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 6 hours ago, telriv said: Why don't you just buy a new tank??? By the time & $$$$ you spend to have it re-done you could purchase a new tank. Tom T. Yes freight is the issue and probably at least cost of the tank and probably not worth hunting another old one here as likely same issues Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrAG Riv Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 6 hours ago, XframeFX said: Probably not to Australia. Shipping to my door north of the border is INTERNATIONAL and might as well cost the same as shipping to Cameroon Africa! USPS or FEDEX (w/account), the least worst. I had the pin-hole leak in my tank repaired at an Industrial Radiator shop that was kind enough to accept my little job. I feel you. For us that live outside of the 'lower 48' there is special math we must do anytime we consider buying a correct part from the Riviera motherland. Exchange rates, shipping and duties can cause things to spiral quickly. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Look for some rubber backed flat washers for your valve covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerage Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 1 hour ago, MrAG Riv said: I feel you. For us that live outside of the 'lower 48' there is special math we must do anytime we consider buying a correct part from the Riviera motherland. Exchange rates, shipping and duties can cause things to spiral quickly. Try living in New Zealand... and having two of the damn things 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 2 hours ago, powerage said: Try living in New Zealand... and having two of the damn things It is a hazard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 Hey, Riv fans well spread a bit thin today between engine, fuel tank, instrument panel and wiring looms. but with all the shop guys hitting it for a couple hours at beer time they manage to get the engine and trans back in the hole so something to show for the day! I expect the engine colour and dash colour is somewhat distant from the original however as I am coming to terms with the car being s conservative custom I am overall happy with the results. 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 You need six of the sealing washers. I have the PROPER ones in stock @ $1.00 each + shipping. I will need an exact address to get a shipping quote. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr914 Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 needs a nice set of turbines! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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