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Riviera63

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Everything posted by Riviera63

  1. That is the original piece that came with the car. Go back to the beginning of the thread where I explain how I did it. Biil
  2. I got mine on Amazon. They are also listed on e-bay. I am sure you can pick up a USB port at any number of places. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bill
  3. Here is a thread where this problem is discussed pretty thoroughly. Lots of suggestions to help with the problem. Bill
  4. I am one of those funny people that likes to keep things in his car as they were. If I am installing something or replacing something I would like to put it in place as it is supposed to be. I am looking for constructive advice on how this piece should be installed on the seat. I would appreciate any 64 owner (or 65 if they were the same) to take a look and let me know. Thanks. Bill
  5. Answer: Yes One may also need to move the seat back forward for a non-adult size person to sit in the back seat. One also needs to move the seat back for a number of reasons not related to a person sitting back there.
  6. On the right side of the passenger seat there is a lanyard that connects from the seat bottom to the seat top. On my 1963 the plastic that covers the wire is cracked and falling off. I got a replacement from a 64 Riv and it is somewhat different than mine. The 64 lanyard has a coiled wire on one end. Could anyone tell me which seat half it connects to and how to orient the wire when you put it on the seat? Thanks. Bill
  7. Thanks Jim. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement to attach the vinyl. Yes, I have since gotten the answers to my questions. Bill
  8. I also want to post this here for those that are finding it tough to find the driver's seat left side inner and outer trim pieces either unbroken or at all. It is somewhat related to what I did here to the right side trim piece. I had purchased the inner and outer left trim pieces from Gene of abandg. Gene had these pieces reproduced in metal. (FYI the outer piece will work for 63-64, but not 65, the 65 outer piece is different in shape and uses a different rear bracket, will work if you swap rear brackets) I don't know if he has any left or not but, worth giving him a call. I wanted a more or
  9. I got the outer right side trim piece finished today. I covered the piece with black vinyl which should give it some additional strength. I also sprayed the inner, rear piece (which is the piece I repaired to begin this thread) and the 2 pieces that fit on the rear of the passenger seat tracks. I used Eastwood Underhood Matte Black spray paint and was happy with the match to the vinyl. Bill
  10. A follow up on this thread. I followed Kegart's lead and purchased both of the left driver's side metal trim pieces from Gene of abandg. I wanted a more original look than just the painted metal. I was able to cover both pieces with black vinyl. I am very happy with the results as I get the original look plus the durability of the metal construction. Bill
  11. Fixed the chunk missing on the top edge using super glue & paper, filling with epoxy and sanding as well. I did not think it would bother but, when test fitting the vinyl it was apparent it was there. Bill
  12. They are a couple of my favorites. I found them at an antique store. Of course this dates me but, Rocky and Bullwinkle was at the top of the cartoon hierarchy for me as a kid growing up. Bill
  13. Next step completed. I cemented pieces of aluminum roof flashing to the back side of the trim piece. I did this to give the piece added strength to prevent breakage in the future. The roof flashing works well because it cuts easily and will contour to the curves of the piece. Bill
  14. I am adding a second installment to my previous post about plastic repair using super glue and paper. One of my winter projects is to get the various power driver's seat lower trim pieces ready to be installed on my seat. In the first post I repaired the piece that mounts on the rear of the right side seat track. My pieces need to be black, so this one will probably just be painted. The next piece I decided to tackle was the trim piece that will mount on the brackets on the right side of the seat. This piece will cover the piece that fits on the rear of the track when the seat is
  15. Thanks for the compliment. That "casual" background is part of the wallpaper of my shop. It is my favorite place to hang out. I go there for inner peace and solitude. Bill
  16. In response to Jim's question up above I decided to coat with the Rustoleum Stainless Steel Epoxy Spray Paint. There were some areas that were discolored from rust or whatever and there had been a welding repair on the right front leg of the track. I wanted a more uniform appearance so I went with the paint. I rewrapped the wiring harness and cleaned and lubed the transmission. I also pulled out the armature to clean and sand the commutator bars smooth and lubed the shaft bushings. I got it all back together this afternoon. Everything runs smoothly and works the way it should. It was a fun pr
  17. Jim, I think I am either going to do the clear lacquer or use a bare stainless steel look spray paint. I have the Eastwood version. I also have Rustoleum Stainless Steel Appliance Epoxy Paint which I have used with good results in the past. I am not sure which way I will go yet. Will post pictures when I get the project finished. Bill
  18. The Oil Eater was $9.36 and the Evapo Rust was $15.36. I bought both on Amazon, so no shipping cost. Both took very little soaking time to get the desired results. I did not think that the Evapo Rust was that badly priced as compared to other rust removal products that I saw out there. The Evapo Rust can be reused. I have the whole gallon left minus a couple of ounces. This will last me a long time. Buying online saved me a trip to the feed store as well. Plus, I did not have to supply my own container. Of course, Evapo Rust is not as good on pancakes. Bill
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