• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Riviera63

  1. When I ordered mine from Clark's Corvair it came with directions for installation copied from the Body Manual that were pretty complete. If you haven't done so get the Chassis and the Body Manuals. These are an invaluable resource. The installation directions will be in the Body Manual I believe. This job can be done by yourself however, an extra set of hands makes the install much easier. Bill
  2. Scrolling through the TV Guide today and saw that the Motor Trend Channel (formerly Velocity Channel) program Wrench'd is customizing or butchering (depending on your point of view) a 1963 Riviera tonight at 8:00 CST with a repeat at 11:00 CST. Bill
  3. You can contact one of the many great vendors listed in the Riview. I am sure that any of them could hook you up with a nice original. Clark's Corvair also has repos part # R275. Bill
  4. Yes, they sell windlace. I bought a set for the rear of my 1963 and was very happy with it. It is on page 11 of the paper catalog. I don't know if this corresponds with the on-line catalog. 1964 Windlace Pair is R182 and 1964 Front Windlace Pair is R182F. You will need to add the color code to the end of the part number. Bill
  5. That is the size I used when I installed on my 1963. The nipple on the back of the pull vacuum in the glovebox and the nipple on the trunk lock are 1/8". The 7/64" is inside diameter of the hose. I bought a 50 foot roll on e-bay very cheaply. I used half and sold the other half. Bill
  6. If I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before on the forum regarding the proportioning valve, that it is not necessary. Bill
  7. I did this conversion several years ago following Jim Cannon's (he is the 1963 Tech adviser for the ROA) conversion. Use the master cylinder for the 1967 Riviera, it is a bolt on. You can find either of the versions at your local auto parts stores. I got mine from NAPA. I kept the original booster as you are doing. His conversion is pretty straightforward and simple. I have not had any problems whatsoever. Like anything, there are multiple ways to do it. Here is what I recommend: Keep the factory distribution block on the frame. Remove the line going to the rear axle and plug it. Connect the port on the block that goes to the stock MC up to the FRONT port of the dual MC. You need to fabricate a line to do this, with double-flared ends at both ends. Put some slack in the line by making a Z-shaped portion or a coil The tube nut size on the front MC port is different from stock MC, but is easily obtained. That takes care of the front wheels. For the rear axle, you want to fabricate a new line that goes from the REAR port of the dual MC down to the frame in the vicinity of the distribution block. Include a coil or a Z for slack. Use a T-fitting style union made for brake light switch to connect the end of your new rear line to the existing rear line that come off of the original distribution block. The 2 union-type ends will be tube fittings. You connect the line to the rear axle to one of them and the line up to the dual MC to the other. It is equivalent to a straight-through union. The T-part of the fitting is 1/8" NPT, not flared tubing. The stock brake light switch screws right into it. The wires on the stock wiring harness are long enough to reach down to the frame by the distribution block. You do not need to splice any electric or cut anything. To keep the lines from vibrating against each other, I tied the lines to each other with a couple of small zip ties. I got the 3/16" tubing, the master fittings STN-7 and STN-5, the T-fitting BS-01(the T-fitting comes with a new brake light switch attached) and everything from Inline Tube. I might have gotten the plug from them, I don't remember. Call them. You do not need a proportioning valve for the drum-drum system. Crude proportioning is already included in the wheel cylinder cup/piston diameter difference between front and rear. Connecting lines as I describe will maintain the factory proportioning, for better or for worse. (I used to design brake systems.) The brake light switch is hard to bleed air out of. Fill it with fluid before screwing into the T-fitting. Try to keep it contacts down until you bleed the system, then invert it. Regarding which dual MC to use: You need to remove your stock MC from the car and look at the end of the piston that the booster pin presses against. It will be either a (roughly) 1" deep hole or a 1/4" deep dimple. The new dual MC that you install needs to have that same depth "hole". It will be either one or the other. Trying to put the wrong one in will not work. If you are keeping your STOCK booster, you need to put an o-ring on the neck of the new MC where it inserts into the booster, or else you will have no boost (due to vacuum leak at the neck). Either move the original o-ring over to the booster or get a new o-ring. The only guy I know that sells this special o-ring is Booster Dewey out in Oregon. You might try NAPA or other places and find it. If you were to "cut" the o-ring and look at the cut surface, it would not be a circle. It would be a small square. So it is not really a conventional o-ring. It is specific to this application. The write up on the ROA website is essentially the same as what Jim outlined but, somewhat more complicated. With the above method you don't have to replace the distribution block and fabricate a mounting bracket, your original distribution block is utilized. Also, if you are doing this on a 63 you do not have to mount and rewire a new brake light switch as outlined on the website. An original style brake light switch is included with the T from Inline Tube. The wires that ran to the switch on the original master cylinder are long enough to reach the new switch in the T. Hope this helps. Bill
  8. Bob, All is well with the water system. We just need an 8' X 4' section of sidewalk that needed to be removed to do the repair replaced when spring rolls along. I hope your repair goes well. Bill
  9. Sounds good. Let me know as soon as possible. I have it for sale on other venues as well. Thanks. Bill
  10. You have to shorten your original trunk rod. Take it to your grinder and remove small portions until the lock fits securely back in its original location. The short rod on the vacuum portion goes into the original lock as you said. The newly shortened original rod slides in the other side of the vacuum portion. Bill
  11. Hi Tom, Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. I'm sure these small fasteners were lost/discarded early on after some bulb changes. Not that it is a difficult chore without those fasteners but, having the lens in place and secure would make disassembly/reassembly easier. One does not want to have a lens moving or falling out where it can get scratched. Bill
  12. I am sure others have used different paint products with good results as well. I used Rustoleum Matte Nickel 7277830. I think it was a pretty good match to the original. Cheap and available at local stores. I also used this on other areas such as the grille and on my headliner trim (I have 726 silver headliner and interior) with good results. Bill
  13. Dave, you could have said that before I ordered them. Just kidding. Were yours from CARS? Time will tell how they fit. If they do not fit properly they will go back. Too much money to spend on something that does not fit correctly. If they fit correctly then it is money well spent. I do find it hard to believe that with today's technology that reproduction parts can't be made to fit the same as the originals and that they would be marketed and sold if they didn't. Too be continued. Anyone have any insight on the retainers? Bill
  14. I received my new lenses on Friday. They appear to be very nicely made. It will be awhile before I can actually put them on and report back with information on the fit. So far, so good. They came with 4 screw retainers (5/8" X 1/4") for each lens. I have had my lenses and turn signal assemblies out/apart a couple of times and did not run across any retainers like these. Does anyone know how/where these are used when the lenses are installed? Are these retainers one of those things that originally were installed on the car when new but, were discarded or lost over the years? Input appreciated. Thanks. Bill
  15. Clark's Corvair makes new replacement sunvisors. With them you know the material will be the correct color and grain for your year. They will also recover your old sunvisor(s) if it is not too badly warped but, that is more costly than buying new ones. They also make replacement sail panels, which are often warped. Bill
  16. Here you go. The 1st picture I have attached has my for sale lens between a new CARS reproduction lens and an NOS Delco Guide lens. The 2nd picture is of the same items but, with the "new" lenses switching places. Which one is the Delco NOS and which one is the new CARS? I'll let you guess. My used original lens shows very favorably versus the "new" ones. Bill
  17. For sale is an original accessory wiring harness used on various 50's & 60's GM makes & models. The harness is 6 feet long. This is the same harness that came with the trunk light kits I had added to my 1963 Pontiacs. I'm sure it could be adapted for other accessory/electrical uses. $12.00 shipped. Please PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill
  18. For sale is a very nice original 1963 tail light lens. The lens has nice bright plastic with no surface scratches or chips. I had purchased this from one of our very reputable Riviera parts vendors as a spare. I no longer need this as I found an NOS lens for my car and will have a spare once the NOS lens is installed. I paid $30.00 for this but, will sell if for $20.00 plus S & H as I discovered a very fine hairline crack on the right edge which the vendor and I had missed when it was first purchased. I don' think this will be visible when in the bezel. Still a really nice lens. Please PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill
  19. Years ago I had purchased an NOS set of door edge guards to put on my 1963 Pontiac. My car was in the body shop so I asked them to attach these as long as it was there. When I picked the car up I asked them how they attached them. He said when they attach metal door edge guards they take a small wedge to spread them slightly. If the edges are too close together they can scrape paint off when pushed on. He also said they used a small amount of adhesive (I don't remember what kind) to help hold them in place rather than pinching for a friction hold. He said that way they could be removed if necessary in the future without damage to the guards or door edge. Right or wrong I don't know but, it worked well on my car. They looked good and I never had any problems. Bill
  20. Thanks for that. I checked those out. I decided to go with the CARS version as they have have the blacked out areas as original and the cost was significantly less for a pair. I will see how they work out and report back. Bill