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Shop/Garage Light recommendations.


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With all the new lights available I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to look for in getting the shop here back in good shape. Over 20 years ago the main shop here partially burned when some adjacent sheds where hay was stored, and some farm machinery also, caught on fire and was engulfed. I was not here at the time. The heat was so intense that the wiring in the building melted inside of the conduit. Most of it was taken out and scraped along with the ceiling fans when the shop was revamped and never replaced. The ceiling mount oil furnace was set aside. During the summer I got it hung back up in place and I recently replaced much of the wiring in it and revived it so we now have heat. I have been replacing the conduit and running new wire. I'm at the point thinking about lighting. Wondering what others here have found to be adequate and easy to replace if a bulb or fixture fails. Mostly looking for something that will light up the benches and also something midway up the wall to light up dark areas. Eventually getting some for the ceiling also. Being old school and knowing what standard Edison light bulbs use to do, and florescent light of the past use to do, I have to admit I'm at a loss for all the options of these modern LED lights and fixtures. Any advice? What has worked for you?      

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Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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These images are of the new conduit I have run thus far. I have used boxes to couple much of it together so it gives me lots of possibilities. I also am installing lots of outlets and left room for switches as I am going forward. The furnace in place in the 3rd photo.

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Get LED. They don't have to warm up. I have a shed with a bunch of dedicated LED fixtures in it, and another with conversion bulbs that still run on the ballasts like the fluorescents did. The idea was that you could just replace a bad bulb. Bah. They draw a lot more current and have been less reliable than the dedicated LED fixtures. Never mind that a ballast could still fail.

 

The ones I really like look like 4 foot double strip lights at first glance, but the "tubes" are half round when you look closer.

 

 

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It is dark along the wall in the first photo. Second and third photo is in an unheated portion of the shop that needs outlets and lighting. 

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3 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Get LED. They don't have to warm up. I have a shed with a bunch of dedicated LED fixtures in it, and another with conversion bulbs that still run on the ballasts like the fluorescents did. The idea was that you could just replace a bad bulb. Bah. They draw a lot more current and have been less reliable than the dedicated LED fixtures. Never mind that a ballast could still fail.

 

The ones I really like look like 4 foot double strip lights at first glance, but the "tubes" are half round when you look closer.

 

 

Are there any particular brands that seem to be better than others? So many styles and types out there. 

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I don't know. Of the type I have described, I have bought Lithonia as well as some store brand (Commercial Electric maybe?). Both came from either Home Depot or Lowes, and I can't remember. The Lithonia's had some plastic end caps on the fake tubes that had a tendency to fall off (I glued them on) and the others stayed on by themselves, but even if you lost them its just cosmetic. These are mounted on a fairly low white painted ceiling. I put in a bunch of them. You can't have too much light in a shop. It just occurred to me that since your ceiling is up higher you might want the reflector style, and the only ones of those I own are converted fluorescent. On the other hand, the LEDs only shine down, so reflectors probably don't make the difference they did on fluorescent.

 

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We've come a long way in the last 140 + years since Edison's invention. I found this old bulb in an old shed that the roof collapsed into recently. It is the size of a standard house hold bulb but the base is not standard. I have been told it is an early Westinghouse bulb for early airport runway lights or for an early spot light on a movie set.

 

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Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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Hay Dandy Dave

I am in the process of replacing all the fluorescent lights in my shop. I’m tired of replacing the ballast in them. For about the same money as the ballast I can buy 2 LED bulbs. I got bulbs from my local electrical supply house for about 23$ each. I have 8’ lights 

 

 I have had to rewire the fixtures. It takes about 10 - 15 minutes a fixture to eliminate the ballast and direct wire the tomb stones and replace the bulbs. My shop is much brighter and uses 60 percent less energy to light it up.IMG_3643.jpeg.59657b839f5bdfbab8d088bffa0c3b16.jpeg


LED on the left and fluorescent on the right

 

John

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You'll have to map out where you want the brightest areas to be and where bright lights aren't needed.  Those of us over 65 years old need about twice as much light as the youngsters to see well.  Lighting units are complicated (U.S. vs metric) but let's use foot-candles as a start.  About 40 foot-candles is usually enough for working at a desk, but you may want to have 100 foot-candles where you are re-assembling an engine.  In metric terms, 10.7 lux = 1 foot-candle, the light intensity per square foot or square meter on a surface.  Once you know the total lux/fc needed, then you can calculate how many fixtures you need over the area based on how high they are and what beam angle they project. 

 

Let's say your garage is 40 ft x 40 ft.  A good pattern would be to put a fixture 5 ft from a wall, then others at 15, 25, and 35 ft.  Do it in both directions.  Now you have 16 fixtures and should have fairly uniform light assuming they are high enough, say 10-12 ft up.  There are lighting programs on line that will solve this based on the type of fixtures you choose. Those round high-bay lights you linked to would be a good start.  Here's a sample:  https://www.bannerengineering.com/us/en/company/expert-insights/lux-lumens-calculator.html

 

Definitely do LEDs.  Good luck with the project.

 

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I bought led shop lights for my garage/shop by bulk. I think I got a 6 pack for $80 or so. I got them from the amazon. I wasnt too particular about power or colour, just looking for something cheap. The ones I got do just fine. I was looking at Lowes not too long ago and I suppose like everything else even their cheap shop lights were getting pretty expensive.

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6 hours ago, JohnS25 said:

I have had to rewire the fixtures. It takes about 10 - 15 minutes a fixture to eliminate the ballast and direct wire the tomb stones and replace the bulbs.

Do the LED tubes run directly on 115 VAC at the 'tombstones', or do you replace the ballast with a low voltage DC power supply?

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

Do the LED tubes run directly on 115 VAC at the 'tombstones', or do you replace the ballast with a low voltage DC power supply?

Yes

115VAC at the tombstone.

line power to one side and neutral to the ether. I am certainly no electrician. I took a picture of the end of the fluorescent light and told the salesman that I wanted to convert my lights to 115VAC LEDies. He told me what I needed to do and sold me the bulbs I needed. Well worth the effort.

John

 

Edited by JohnS25 (see edit history)
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16 hours ago, Gary_Ash said:

You'll have to map out where you want the brightest areas to be and where bright lights aren't needed.  Those of us over 65 years old need about twice as much light as the youngsters to see well.  Lighting units are complicated (U.S. vs metric) but let's use foot-candles as a start.  About 40 foot-candles is usually enough for working at a desk, but you may want to have 100 foot-candles where you are re-assembling an engine.  In metric terms, 10.7 lux = 1 foot-candle, the light intensity per square foot or square meter on a surface.  Once you know the total lux/fc needed, then you can calculate how many fixtures you need over the area based on how high they are and what beam angle they project. 

 

Let's say your garage is 40 ft x 40 ft.  A good pattern would be to put a fixture 5 ft from a wall, then others at 15, 25, and 35 ft.  Do it in both directions.  Now you have 16 fixtures and should have fairly uniform light assuming they are high enough, say 10-12 ft up.  There are lighting programs on line that will solve this based on the type of fixtures you choose. Those round high-bay lights you linked to would be a good start.  Here's a sample:  https://www.bannerengineering.com/us/en/company/expert-insights/lux-lumens-calculator.html

 

Definitely do LEDs.  Good luck with the project.

 

Thanks much for this info Gary. Both my wife and I are at that age where we need to double the light. I have trifocals. 😎 Your mention of lux/fc brings me back to the days of using a light meter to take 35MM photos.  

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53501342850_a6f7ece2dc_c.jpg20240131_155149 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

These are single strip fixtures in my barn. 24 x 24 and they light up nicely. I think I got these at lowes.

 

53501342670_5040f39580_c.jpg20240131_155230 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

The ceiling in my shop. Double row led's. 8 total and with the white ceiling there is plenty of light. Although when working close I use additional task lighting. I got these from the amazon in a box lot package deal.

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I just had eight "High Bay" LED lamps installed during rebuilding my shop destroyed in Hurricane Ian.  I had previously replaced the sixteen fluorescent tubes with LED's, but with the high ceilings, the High Bay lamps are a huge improvement.  Sloping ceiling is 14' at the low end, 32' at the high end.

Henry Feinberg

Ft. Myers, FL

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1 hour ago, parrts said:

I just had eight "High Bay" LED lamps installed during rebuilding my shop destroyed in Hurricane Ian.  I had previously replaced the sixteen fluorescent tubes with LED's, but with the high ceilings, the High Bay lamps are a huge improvement.  Sloping ceiling is 14' at the low end, 32' at the high end.

Henry Feinberg

Ft. Myers, FL

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That's good to know. The shop here at the farm is 40 X 80 with the heated work area being 40 X 60. The ceiling is 15 foot up. Thanks for the input.  

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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It sounds like you've been through quite the journey with your shop. Kudos on getting the furnace and wiring back in action. Now, about lighting, I get what you mean about the LED options being a bit overwhelming. I recently stumbled upon a modern bubble chandelier while I was browsing for ideas to renovate my house and garden. It adds a unique touch and a good amount of light. For your shop, you might want to consider LED shop lights. They're energy-efficient and bright, and if one goes out, it's easy to replace without a fuss. They'll definitely light up your benches and those dark areas on the walls.

Edited by TristinPerez (see edit history)
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I've got to add more lights to my shop and they will be LED - can't say enough good things about the ones that we already have installed.  Just a word of caution to avoid the cheap made in China ones.  My previous life was in the emergency services and for a good period it was dealing with our communications equipment supplier.  They had discovered quite by happenstance that those lights put out enough interference to disrupt two way radio communications inside buildings equipped with them.  I'm not a tinfoil hat kind of guy but I've got to think that kind of emissions is likely not good for you, or at least not worth the risk for the sake of saving a couple of bucks.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
32 minutes ago, JohnS25 said:

I believe I have shop envy 

That isn't the shop, the shop is in another building.  This is the show barn where all of the show cars are stored.  That picture was taken before it was completely finished.

 

Today It's packed full of vehicles, but I have radiant in floor heating so as cold as it is tonight, those cars are kept at about 56 degrees.  I had to remortgage my house to pay for that building, and then when I got a settlement from my motorcycle accident, that paid for the geothermal heat.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here in North Carolina, Duke Energy give LED bulbs and fixtures to the Habitat Restore Stores to resell at fantastic prices. (CHEAP}

When in NC, Check them out.

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On 2/18/2024 at 3:58 PM, ex98thdrill said:

That isn't the shop, the shop is in another building.  This is the show barn where all of the show cars are stored.  That picture was taken before it was completely finished.

 

Today It's packed full of vehicles, but I have radiant in floor heating so as cold as it is tonight, those cars are kept at about 56 degrees.  I had to remortgage my house to pay for that building, and then when I got a settlement from my motorcycle accident, that paid for the geothermal heat.

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Quick question about your radiant floor heat, I am working on plans to rebuild my shop that unfortunately burnt to the ground about 20 months ago and I was looking into floor heat.  I am not in snow country and just want to take the edge off in the winter and part of the building will be vehicle storage, so want to keep humidity down.  I just wanted to hear your thoughts on radiant floor heating ? I am leaning towards wire heat instead of hydronic hot water as I have a large solar system that will offset energy use,

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On 1/31/2024 at 3:13 PM, parrts said:

I just had eight "High Bay" LED lamps installed during rebuilding my shop destroyed in Hurricane Ian.  I had previously replaced the sixteen fluorescent tubes with LED's, but with the high ceilings, the High Bay lamps are a huge improvement.  Sloping ceiling is 14' at the low end, 32' at the high end.

Henry Feinberg

Ft. Myers, FL

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I need to finish the shop end of a 50x100 bldg,pour the floor,then insulate,finish walls etc. I called a local electrical shop for an estimate and they recommended these type of lights with my 14' walls.I never did get the bid but I'm thinking of looking into these myself. I have long,small bulb LEDs in a bsmt shop,light enough to work but any picture I take of something is too dark. So I'm glad to hear these worked out for you.

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