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1927 Chrysler Model 72 generator issue


danny pittman

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So, I am inheriting a 1927 Chrysler Model 72. It has been in the family since the 1940's or 50's. I pulled the generator off as the aluminum end cap was falling apart. Local shop in rural Texas could not help. I can machine a new end cap, but what about rebuilding the generator? I have been messing with classic and antique cars for 35 years, but other than reconditioning the ignition system and rebuilding the carb, which the car fired off and ran for a few seconds, I have no Chrysler experience. I see a lot of similarities to the Hudsons of the same era, but I never rebuilt a generator. Will I need to polarize the regulator after the rebuild? Any help would be appreciated. I want to get this car driving while my dad is still alive. Difficult task, since I only get to visit about 1 week a year. The gas tank is in my garage in Gainesville, Ga. Everything else is in Southeast Texas. Any advice on the generator would be appreciated. I am planning a Thanksgiving week visit and would like to make some serious progress.

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There have been quite a few of the end frames reproduced over the years since some of the pot metal ones start to crumble. If you could post the  part number that is on the generator tag it would help. Some one may have a good used end frame and the part number or a picture would help. I have been told anytime you take a generator off it should be polarized so I do it.

 

Good luck on a worthy cause.

 

Dave

Edited by Dave39MD (see edit history)
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As an alternative, you can hag another generator(or alternator) on the other side of the engine and run it off a longer fan belt. I did it to my '28 series 62.

Chrysler eliminated the integral generator on the right side of the engine driven by the timing chain and went the conventional fan belt driven generator on the left side of the engine in the '29 models series 65/75.

 

By the way, series 72 is considered to be a 1928 model, though it may have been built in '27.

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15 hours ago, maok said:

As an alternative, you can hag another generator(or alternator) on the other side of the engine and run it off a longer fan belt. I did it to my '28 series 62.

Chrysler eliminated the integral generator on the right side of the engine driven by the timing chain and went the conventional fan belt driven generator on the left side of the engine in the '29 models series 65/75.

 

By the way, series 72 is considered to be a 1928 model, though it may have been built in '27.

There was some debate on whether it was a Model 70 or 72. Dad came across the paperwork a few years ago and it was built in late 1927

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There are basically 3 things that wear out on a generator. The bushings that the armature runs on, these are not hard to replace, oilite bushings are preferred but plain bronze is all most manufacturers used. Then the brushes, if you can't get the right ones an old time auto electric shop will have a selection, if necessary you can shave them down with sandpaper. The commutator wears but can be turned straight and smooth in most cases. Then you have to undercut the mica between the copper segments using a fine hacksaw blade ground down to the right thickness.

You say it needs a new end cap but you have that covered.

 

The only other thing is to test the armature and field coils for continuity. In other words a complete circuit with no shorts or gaps. Auto electric shops have a growler for this, the test only takes a few seconds, a shop will probably do it for you even if they are not able to rebuild the generator.

 

Polarizing the generator is a good idea if it has been apart, or out of service for years. The field coils need a little residual magnetism to start working. You magnetise them by connecting to power for a couple of seconds. Instructions on how to do this can be found in any repair manual.

 

If you have the skills to make an end cap I expect you have the skills and the equipment to do the rest.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/2/2022 at 3:01 PM, 28 Chrysler said:

Post the letter of the engine serial number, each Model had a different letter.

There is the engine number and the tag on the dash. We could not find the generator while I was there. I may have brought it home during an earlier trip. Now I get to look through my garage.

20221121_114554.jpg

20221121_114759.jpg

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Whilst this car was built in Oct 25, the car is basically a 1926 model G70 as is still common today the new car year starts in July.

 The engine number should be on the top of the front timing cover case and should start with a G.

 The 1925 Chryslers did not have the Fedco numbering system and Chrysler only adopted the Fedco system with the 1926 models.

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On 11/28/2022 at 12:40 PM, 28 Chrysler said:

Some time in the Model 70 run the stamped serial number on the engine was moved from the timing chain cover ( right side between the water pump and the generator ) to the front left side just under the head.

The only thing that I found stamped on the engine was the 9195 with A-53951-3 underneath on the driver's side of the block. I did not get to look on the front cover at all. 

I did bring the vacuum tank home to rebuild. This will have to do until Spring or early Summer. I am going to try and come up with a 6v positive ground alternator and figure out how to adapt it in the mean time. Anybody done this before?

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About 10 yrs ago I added a 6 vt Positive grd Alternator to my stock 1933 Plymouth.  It was the one wire kind that the Model A people use.  It cost around $130. at that time and came with a wide pulley to use the original fan belt.  I had to make a simple bracket to bolt it to the block.  It charges at a higher rate and the lights are much brighter.  The up grade was well worth the  small expense.   Life is Good.  Don 

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  • 1 month later...

I believe these generators have a gear attached to them that runs off the timing chain so it would need to be left in place even if an alternator were substituted.

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