Mark Kikta Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Today I finally did it. Drove the old girl into my garage and put it on the lift to change the oil pan gasket. Went on the lift fine and felt very stable. Ok I’m over my fear now. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Why would you be concerned? I wish I had space for a lift. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Nice lift! Better than crawling under the car on your back. Unrelated fact....I found the oil pan come out easier when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to move the tie rod forward and out of the way of the oil pan. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michealbernal Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I have a pit which was ok when I was 25 but now at 75 it is not so much fun anymore. I sure wish I had a lift 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 It will be easier to change the universal joint Leather boot also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Who needs a fancy lift when all you need is a chain fall. The Sport Touring cars in the background look like they are sitting on A frames. Most definitely pre OSHA. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 3 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: Who needs a fancy lift when all you need is a chain fall. The Sport Touring cars in the background look like they are sitting on A frames. Most definitely pre OSHA. Ok, now THAT I would have a fear of. "ok the transmission's all set, but the customer said his spare tire carrier wasn't bent when he came in" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I've used my 2 post lift on my 1917 D45 and my 1932 model 58. I always use safety supports under each end when the car is up in the air. The 32 Buick is a nuisance as the lift plates are too wide and interfere with exhaust and steering. I use spacers without the plates and set them onto a rivet on the frame to prevent any slippage. I also use it to lift only one end (with jack stands) for oil changes etc. Creeper work is no fun any more. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I had to do some manipulation of the ceiling to get all the clearance that I wanted to give maximum undercar working space. Notice the supports under front and back. Bob Engle 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Lifts can be used for many other functions. Bob Engle 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I use my 4 post lifts for storage as well as servicing.... A sliding cross-member provides a base to jack up front or back to remove wheels etc. No worries & no crawling on the floor to set the arms either... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I have no problem getting on my back to crawl under a car. My problem is getting back up again. 5 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 If you don’t already have a pair of tall stands like Bob shows, they will make things even safer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AussieBuick Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 18 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: Who needs a fancy lift when all you need is a chain fall. The Sport Touring cars in the background look like they are sitting on A frames. Most definitely pre OSHA. Hugh, I have a similar chain block but I dont think I'll be using it in that manner. They are very low geared with a low weight rating 1 ton from memory Norm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 20 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: I have a set of those "J hooks" out in the garage. As a rep in the early 80's I had a dealer that still used them until they got some lifts around 1982. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 Well, with the car up on the lift I managed to fix the boot on my torque tube. I also put all new grease fittings on the car and greased them all until I saw new grease coming out somewhere. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 I got my Dykes manual out and educated myself on how to clean and adjust my brakes. Here is a copy of what the Dykes says on adjusting the outer brakes. It had a diagram to go with the article as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 I learned a lot from the Dykes manual so I opened up the brakes and cleaned and lubed everything. I realized there were six pins on the brake mechanism that were missing Carter pins, so I fixed that when I put them back together. Hopefully they work better than they did previously. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 I finished installing a new oil pan gasket and re-installed the oil pan. Appears to have no leaks, finally. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Gentlemen.......whenever you lift an early car up on a offset lift.........OPEN ALL THE DOORS! Prevents frame deflection from jamming the doors into the body...........a drive on lift is the only lift I will ever use on a non unibody car............but if your only option is a lift similar to the above.......open up all the doors.........best, Ed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 PS......Never, EVER use silicone sealer on any pre war car............none, zero, nada. Permatex number two is fine. I don’t feel like typing ten pages why. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 I used hylomar blue except in the corners of the front seal. It’s the best thing I have ever used. I will never use anything else again. Stays flexible so cleanup if I ever do this again will be very easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Check the long cast steel reaction arm that goes along the inboard rear side of the backing plate that holds the block for C/D in the Dyke pic. Both my arms were cracked when I bought my car. Took the expert welder from Buick Engineering in his home shop to grind grooves at the fracture and use the correct weld rod due to them being cast steel. Still doing fine and that was 25 years ago. The backing plate rivets were all loose too due to them doing the work of the cracked reaction arms. Had to drill them all out and use larger grade 5 bolts and lock the nuts in place with a center punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 They seemed OK but I’ll check them over again. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 Brian, Is this the part you are talking about? I didn’t see any cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Yes Inspect the cast arm from the axle out to point C/D About midway along the arm, both of mine were cracked just forward of that round cast feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Not the greatest pic. I’ve marked up where mine were cracked. This is my spare rear axle assembly that resides under my 2500 Suburban for storage. I’m doing a one arm plank push up with the phone in the other to take this. You owe me Buick Brother. Ha. There has to be a story why all the major donor parts off a 1923 Model 45 were painted red. I just wish I knew it. I bought the entire drivetrain from a guy doing a street rod conversation years ago. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 OK thanks I'll check that point out. I owe you a beer Ha Ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Interesting on the red paint. The 1918 chassis I got was all painted red including the engine. Bob Engle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Brian and Mark, Is this a problem that is common only to the 1923 models? I have the rear axle assembly out from under the car now, should I be checking this area over real close for any problems like what has been described here? IF there should be any concerns, it would seem that this would be the time to look things over very closely. Please advise. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Easy enough to check. When you only have rear brakes, you need to make sure they are set up correct. That goes for the parking brakes too. When the bands get wet the parking brake is all you have left. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 4 hours ago, Robert Engle said: Interesting on the red paint. The 1918 chassis I got was all painted red including the engine. Bob Engle I’m guessing ‘farmer’. The paint is slopped on and thick like they were trying to protect things and had lots of red paint to spare and a mop of a brush. Heck, it worked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 I think I read in the Dykes manual that at 15 MPH, you should expect to stop in 20 feet. That's a long way at only 15 MPH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) You should be able to lock up both rear brakes and skid the tires on dry pavement. That’s all you are going to get. I wasn’t kidding about the parking brake either. It needs to work as well as the service brake and not be full of leaked axle lube. When the bands are wet , like when you just wash your car, you will get to the end of the driveway and have nothing and will be reaching for that hand lever to stay out of the neighbors begonias. Edited March 2, 2021 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 Brian, Check my brakes here and didn't see any cracks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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