cudaman Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Hello, I just bought a 1911 Flanders 20 and its engine is missing its gasoline drip cups. Can anyone with a Flanders 20 tell me what thread size they are, 1/8" pipe or 1/4" pipe? I would suspect that the cups for an EMF 30 would be the same, but I'm not sure. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldford Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 They should be 1/8 pipe, similar to my EMF Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Thanks for the reply! I haven't received the car from the shipper yet, but from the pictures it appears my car has a replacment carburetor. Does anyone have the correct carburetor for a 1911 Flanders 20? I found the attached pictures of one from elsewhere in the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Here are the priming cups currently on my 1912 Flanders 20 engine, from elsewhere on the forum I surmise that they are mid 1920's Studebaker priming cups. I bought a set of period brass cups to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) Here are a few pictures of the carburetor that came with my engine, looks like it is a Rayfield. Judging from the manifold adapter, I don't think it is original to the car. Edited December 8, 2020 by cudaman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcarfudd Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 The HCCA has an E-M-F Register that includes the companion make, Flanders. John Daly is the go-to guy. PM me for his email and phone number. Gil Fitzhugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Thanks Gil, John and I have been corresponding. I have the EMF Registry web page bookmarked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted April 3, 2021 Author Share Posted April 3, 2021 Update - I found some priming cups from Restoration Supply that are closer to the originals, so I installed them. If anyone with an early Studebaker needs a set of priming cups, my old ones are available. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Knew an old timer whose first car was a Model T hot rod with high compression head, magneto ignition and Rayfield carburetor. Apparently the Rayfield was a popular improvement at the time, yours may qualify as a contemporary accessory or acceptable modification Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flivverking Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Curious,what type of fuel container do YOU use to fill the cups and do you carry that fuel filled container with you in the event the car sits to long and cools off too much requiring another fresh prime start? Some of these old cars can stand cold a day or even 3 without priming ,some need it after 3 or 5 hours . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) I carry a little bit of gasoline in a 16oz plastic Pepsi bottle, along with a plastic syringe (turkey baster). I fill the bottle about 1/3 full, and the squeeze about half of the remaining air out of it. That allows room for lots of expansion with temperature change. I have found that it really doesn’t need priming after the first run on hot days. Edited April 4, 2021 by Akstraw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert G. Smits Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Interesting booklet that came with some EMF literature I purchased years ago. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) Per Dykes Automotive encyclopedia, primer cups also work good to test the fuel/air mixture. A blue flame from the primer cup means the mixture is just right, red is too rich, yellow too lean. The beast in the video has a 453 cid engine. As mentioned previously by others we find that we only need the primer cups if its been sitting for a few days. Edited April 4, 2021 by Terry Harper (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 Great video, thank you for posting it! I'll have to try the flame test when I get my Flanders running. It now has an original Flanders carburetor that has one spring loaded air bypass valve for mixture adjustment. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMoneyPit Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 On 4/3/2021 at 5:39 PM, Flivverking said: Curious,what type of fuel container do YOU use to fill the cups and do you carry that fuel filled container with you From what I recall hearing, cars with the primers also had an “oil” can under the hood that was originally intended to hold a small amount of gas to prime with. It makes more sense than carting oil around which is a maintenance easier done in your home garage. It’s a rare day you suddenly need an Oiler in the middle of a drive, but priming gasoline could be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 One of the things people need to remember is that 'gasoline' in the 1910s was not the good stuff we grew up with, and even further from the lousy stuff we have today. It didn't evaporate nearly as quickly, and could sit in an "oilcan" for days. It also did not vaporize in the carburetor nearly as well, which was the main reason that priming cups were often needed to get an engine started. So yes. What most people today think was for oiling of the motor? Is often actually for the gasoline to prime the cylinders. Quite often, cars in the 1910s would have two such 'oilcans'. One for oiling, one for gasoline to prime with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Man Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 OK I was curious what a 1911 Flanders looks like, great looking car! I picked a picture that looks like about your colors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert G. Smits Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 On 4/5/2021 at 8:57 PM, Graham Man said: I think this is the Three Speed Suburban model. They also made a Touring model. If my memory is correct the Suburban had a detachable rear seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 The suburban/touring model (picture posted by Graham Man) is a larger model (at least body-wise?). Mark's new Flanders is model 20 roadster, an older restoration that looks pretty nice. He is redoing some of it, correcting several things that were either wrong or needed attention. He has a nice thread going on the model T forum about the car, and the losing of his mind. Well worth a look if you like the Flanders, anything Studebaker, or horseless carriages! Nice car. https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17099 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nasmank Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 @cudaman I am working on a Flanders 20 EMF carburetor and we are having some issues with it. Do you happen to have any photos of what the float looks like in your carburetor? The one in ours is very screwed up... Thanks! -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 Sure! Mine still has its original cork float, which I coated with Pactra clear "hot fuel proof" dope to protect it from modern ethanol blended gas. I set the float level such that the top of the float was level with the top of the float bowl when the fuel needle is on its seat. The resulting float "drop" is small compared to what I am used to, but seems to be adequate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 I have this Flanders carb extra if anyone is in the market for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 One thing to watch for that I encountered with my carb - it would flood horribly when I first got it. Turned out the "tickler" that depressed the float stuck down too far into the float bowl, keeping the float depressed all the time, keeping the fuel needle from seating. I had to put a washer under the "tickler" body to space it up so that the float could rise enough for the needle to seal against its seat. Many thanks to Daryl Kemerer for pointing me in the right direction! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nasmank Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 Thanks! I will take a look at this and see how it compares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 Be careful with the cork float! It is fragile, especially the narrow section where it is cut back to clear the main jet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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