Noobie and his '39 Century

[EmTee]

The radiator looks great! 

[C-Lamb]

On 11/20/2021 at 11:04 PM, MCHinson said:

Correct 6 volt LEDs are typically quite a bit brighter than the original bulbs. I would make sure that they furnished 6 volt rather than 12 volt LEDs. The other thing that is critical is good wiring, especially a good ground, so make sure you don't have any bad connections in the wiring. 

Thanks Matt, I tested them on a supply and connected directly to the battery to eliminate the ground issue, they just aren't as bright as I would hope.  I wonder if they are really 12V bulbs with the wrong resistors inside, but I don't think I can get them apart.   They are definitely brighter than 1157's a 6V and 6V incandescent bulbs seem impossible to find for comparison.

[C-Lamb]

On 11/21/2021 at 8:49 AM, EmTee said:

The radiator looks great! 

Thanks! I'm excited to install it once I've tested the engine a bit more and verified it's reasonably flushed.  May tackle the other two freeze plugs on the side to see how much crud I can suck out of them before I put it in. 

[MCHinson]

6 minutes ago, C-Lamb said:

Thanks Matt, I tested them on a supply and connected directly to the battery to eliminate the ground issue, they just aren't as bright as I would hope.  I wonder if they are really 12V bulbs with the wrong resistors inside, but I don't think I can get them apart.   They are definitely brighter than 1157's a 6V and 6V incandescent bulbs seem impossible to find for comparison.

1157 should be 12 volt taillight bulbs. 1154 should be 6 volt bulbs. You should be able to find 1154 bulbs in stock at NAPA and possibly some other auto parts stores. The 6 volt LED tail lights should be brighter than 1154 bulb. If they are not, I would return them and purchase from another source. 

[MCHinson]

For LED bulbs, these are the ones that I bought for my 1937 Roadmaster recently: https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx If you order them, be sure to get the Red color version. 

[C-Lamb]

On 11/23/2021 at 7:40 PM, MCHinson said:

For LED bulbs, these are the ones that I bought for my 1937 Roadmaster recently: https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx If you order them, be sure to get the Red color version. 

OK, I've ordered a pair of those... this is what I ordered previously and is about the same as the bulb installed on the other side. 

 

https://www.ledlight.com/s25-24-led-light-6-volt-dc.aspx

 

 

[C-Lamb]

Still proceeding slowly cleaning and tweaking and figuring things out.  Have weak spark on cylinders 1&2 so will go ahead and change out my wires, points, and condenser since I have them. Will put in the new brake lines on as well soon.  Will also pull the valve cover shortly and check on valves and oiling. 

 

Good news is, starts easily and runs every time even in the cold.  I've gone to all incandescent bulbs in the back, none of the LEDs were as bright and several didn't fit in the (replacement) sockets (didn't even make consistent contact).

 

In the meantime, I went ahead and got a picture of the block number:  J3604223  and the body number:  3464  (Model 61, Trim #709, Paint #530). 

 

That block number seems to be in the right range, but there's no way that the first digit is a '6' or 'b'.   See the picture below.  Thanks for any input. 

[32buick67]

My thoughts on LED headlights in case you are looking for some ideas - 

 

https://www.logolites.com/products/led-headlights/focused-beam-led-headlights/

[C-Lamb]

2 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

My thoughts on LED headlights in case you are looking for some ideas - 

 

https://www.logolites.com/products/led-headlights/focused-beam-led-headlights/

Those look really nice, I was hoping for something like that.  I have the nose off until I'm really sure it's running well, which will probably be awhile.  Likely another flush and then an evaporust soak followed by a citric acid soak, hopefully that will clear out the water jacket. 

[32buick67]

I went full LED on my car, although I wired for incandescent wire gauges (higher amps). 

Maybe I am just too conservative, but I thought the larger wire gauges won't hurt.

Who knows what lamp types will be available in the next 90 years, maybe Tesla was right and everything will be powered wirelessly, or maybe not.

 

My wife said the (my) goal this year is to drive at night to go out looking at Christmas lights in our 1932 Buick...I have about nine months to get things figured out.

[C-Lamb]

9 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

I went full LED on my car, although I wired for incandescent wire gauges (higher amps). 

Maybe I am just too conservative, but I thought the larger wire gauges won't hurt.

Who knows what lamp types will be available in the next 90 years, maybe Tesla was right and everything will be powered wirelessly, or maybe not.

 

My wife said the (my) goal this year is to drive at night to go out looking at Christmas lights in our 1932 Buick...I have about nine months to get things figured out.

Excellent idea, I'm hoping to be driving more than a mile or so this year as well!  Good luck! 

[C-Lamb]

On 2/5/2022 at 7:10 PM, C-Lamb said:

Still proceeding slowly cleaning and tweaking and figuring things out.  Have weak spark on cylinders 1&2 so will go ahead and change out my wires, points, and condenser since I have them. Will put in the new brake lines on as well soon.  Will also pull the valve cover shortly and check on valves and oiling. 

 

Good news is, starts easily and runs every time even in the cold.  I've gone to all incandescent bulbs in the back, none of the LEDs were as bright and several didn't fit in the (replacement) sockets (didn't even make consistent contact).

 

In the meantime, I went ahead and got a picture of the block number:  J3604223  and the body number:  3464  (Model 61, Trim #709, Paint #530). 

 

That block number seems to be in the right range, but there's no way that the first digit is a '6' or 'b'.   See the picture below.  Thanks for any input. 

 

Anyone know what the leading "J" on the block means?

 

 

[C-Lamb]

Well, it's been awhile since i updated my thread...lot-a life getting in he way!  So today, I drove it, about 5 miles to the local car show/town festival.. needlees to say, it was a unique 'work in progress'.  While hanging out, I thought I would make a list of things I've done to get her, mostly for my own memory.

1. Replace wheel brake cylinders
2. Replace front brake flex lines
3. Clean and repack front wheel bearing 
4. Wheels sandblasted and primed
5. New (used) tires
6. Replaced master cylinder
7. Replaced fuel tank with one from someone else's project
8. Unclogged fuel lines
9. Unclogged brake lines
10. Rebuilt fuel pump and install filters
11. freed up manual choke
12. New spark plug wires
13. pump and refill diff
14. flush out most of transmission fluid through fill hole, didn't have time last night to drain and refill. 
15. Lube front end 
16. Replace 2 freeze plugs and clean out as much rust as I could
17. Install temporary junkyard radiator and flush(ing) several times with water or evapo-rust.  Replaced heater hoses and connected up to overflow tank 
    1. Spent a fair amount of time with this and held up by foaming and various experiments
    2. Used spa anit-foam to prevent it from foaming else, it would foam a lot of the coolant out
    3. While doing the heater hose, hooked up my overflow tank so it works properly
18. Built a custom fan shroud (crude) now idles 15minutes @ 80 degrees w/o overheating (thermostat removed)
19. Blocked off the coolant bypass with a drilled freeze plug
20. Wired up horn - need horn ring... interesting there is a wire, part of the harness, on the horn output which then goes into the bundle, but no wire on the steering wheel terminal and I haven't found a loose end. 
21. Removed and cleaned one of the brake lights and 1 of blinkers - all are working
    1. Tried LED's, not any brighter the incadescents. Tested on the bench to prove that out.  I believe if you put LED's in your car and they're brighter than the incadescents, then there's loss in your system (contacts/ground).  Test on the bench with your battery, I've tried 3-4 brands of LEDs and they are not brighter than new 6V bulbs. They do use a lot less current, so they will be less sensitve to bad connections or grounds. 
22. Messed with the dash lights and they were working w/ LEDs which are almost bright enough to be useful, but have stopped working.  Lots of bad cloth insullation and old connectors, so I gotta get back in there and see what happened. 

I'll see if I can add pictures next.

 

[C-Lamb]

Here are a couple of pictures and a short video going down the road. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aCD1QHjx6m6F4rCx5

 

Edited September 18, 2022 by C-Lamb (see edit history)

[C-Lamb]

I also noticed that I'm missing a nut... kind of important one.  Passenger side, upper control are, rear nut with zerk fitting.   See picture below.  

What's it called and where can I find a replacement?

 

 

[JFranklin]

I don't see a missing nut, maybe a zerk. You will have a good time degreasing that suspension. It is how you get "into" the hobby.

[C-Lamb]

7 hours ago, JFranklin said:

I don't see a missing nut, maybe a zerk. You will have a good time degreasing that suspension. It is how you get "into" the hobby.

There should be a nut w/ zerk in it at both ends of the upper control arm joint.  There is on the other side... 

[1939_Buick]

The shaft M is probably comprised as well. Maybe support arm L, where it screws into, as well. Try bob's Automiblla.  Or Dave T for used.

Edited September 19, 2022 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[C-Lamb]

15 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:

The shaft M is probably comprised as well. Maybe support arm L, where it screws into, as well. Try bob's Automiblla.  Or Dave T for used.

Thanks '39, that's just what I needed.  I have the same concern wrt the arm and shaft. 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

19 hours ago, C-Lamb said:

Thanks '39, that's just what I needed.  I have the same concern wrt the arm and shaft. 

 

 Those are pretty robust pieces.  Thick threads.  I would try a replacement end and see.

  I have never seen one come apart like that.   Interesting.

 

  Ben

Edited September 20, 2022 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history)

[C-Lamb]

Ben, I'm going to look at some old pictures to see if I can tell if it was there when I got the car, but I suspect not.  I've ordered a new pin and two caps from Bob, pricy but seems to include some rubber bits as well.  We'll see!

[C-Lamb]

On 9/18/2022 at 12:56 AM, JFranklin said:

I don't see a missing nut, maybe a zerk. You will have a good time degreasing that suspension. It is how you get "into" the hobby.

JF, just FYI, that is the degreased suspension!!At least relatively, when I got it there was a solid 1/4" on pretty much everything!

[C-Lamb]

Since the evaporust I had was completely black and had been in there a few weeks, I wanted to refresh it.  So, drained it and knocked out the 3rd freeze plug, which was remarkably solid.  Found a little surprise behind it and complete lack of rusty sludge.  Things looked pretty good inside.  Flushed and refilled with evaporust and all seems good. 

 

Also opened up the drain port on the front of the engine, so that was one of the last places to clean.

 

Anyone know how to get the 4th freeze plug out?  I think it's on the back of the engine...

[neil morse]

The fourth freeze plug is on the back of the head, up against the firewall.  You have to either pull the engine or pull the head to get to it.

[C-Lamb]

7 hours ago, neil morse said:

The fourth freeze plug is on the back of the head, up against the firewall.  You have to either pull the engine or pull the head to get to it.

Thanks Neil, I guess at least it's on the head and not the block...

[MCHinson]

There is also another one in the front of the head, but all you really should worry about are the three on the side of the block. 

Edited September 26, 2022 by MCHinson (see edit history)

[C-Lamb]

On 9/25/2022 at 9:14 PM, MCHinson said:

There is also another one in the front of the head, but all you really should worry about are the three on the side of the block. 

Matt, 

All three on the side done.  Picture above was the 3rd one (front).  Middle one started leaking after the 2nd flush so I'm worried about the other 2, but not too badly ;-).  Next replace the upper control arm pin and then bleed the brakes again and try to adjust them to reduce the pedal travel!

[C-Lamb]

OK, new questions... it's time to rebuild the front end and shocks.  I see there are several kits for the front end and options for rebuilders - any thoughts about sources, process, or priorities?  

 

Also, looks like there's a 'rubber' cover over what I assume is the torque ball in the middle of the frame. This cover has a big hole in it.  What's the 'easy' service I should perform to support continued short trips around town?

 

I've done a first pass at adjusting all four shoes using the technique that the wheel should 'coast' for one revolution if I spin it vigorously.   The brakes are considerably more satisfying.  During the front end rebuilld, I'll take the drum off lube and adjust from the begining, so that should further improve them. 

 

I've now driven to town a couple of times (3 miles each way) and gaining confidence, but it's hard to believe this car will really reach beyond 60 comfortably.   I'm easily cruising at 35-40 in 3rd gear and ready to upshift - if feels like another couple of gears would be nice.  I'm going to install a simple tach to get a better idea of the actual engine speed.  One factor - I'm currently running cheap used tires, which are only 24" OD instead of 27" OD of the spare tire, so that definitely influences things.   I've read lots about the overdrives and other people with the same impression I have... , the overdrive seems like it may be the long term option. Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

Thanks!

[Gary W]

I sent my shocks (all four) to Apple Hydraulics.   Very pleased with the service and it makes a HUGE difference in the ride.

 

After the shocks were installed, I bought the car in for a front end alignment.  Don't skip this important step.

 

I can let go of the wheel at 55-60 mph and she runs straight and true.

[C-Lamb]

23 hours ago, Gary W said:

I sent my shocks (all four) to Apple Hydraulics.   Very pleased with the service and it makes a HUGE difference in the ride.

 

After the shocks were installed, I bought the car in for a front end alignment.  Don't skip this important step.

 

I can let go of the wheel at 55-60 mph and she runs straight and true.

Thanks Gary, I'm going to have to totally rebuild the front end as there's basically no rubber left in any of the pieces.  So an alignment will definitely be necessary.  Thanks for the Apple recommendation!

 

[C-Lamb]

OK, gradually getting the front end apart and looking at which parts have to be replaced.  No play in the tie rods, so I'm not going to fight getting those apart right now and focus on the shocks and the stabilizer links and bushings since those bits clearly need replacement. 

 

In the mean time, was underneath and noticed my torque ball didn't look so great... I haven't noticed any issues, have done a bit of reading and it seems like a real nightmare...  what's the required maintenance at this point?

 

 

[1939_Buick]

Have seen that rubber boot over the ball [G] for sale.

Highly likely the torque ball assembly is well worn

 

By the late BobH-->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/276957-new-1939-special-torque-ball-set-up-need-a-little-help/

 

Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/

 

Edited November 28, 2022 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[C-Lamb]

22 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:

Have seen that rubber boot over the ball [G] for sale.

Highly likely the torque ball assembly is well worn

 

By the late BobH-->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/276957-new-1939-special-torque-ball-set-up-need-a-little-help/

 

Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/

 

Thanks, I guess I'm hoping I don't have to tackle a full R&R right away.  Specifically... 

 - is it possible to replace the boot w/o the whole ordeal of removing or at least loosening the rear end etc?

 - what are the symptoms of a worn torque ball? I have driven it ~10 miles and haven't noticed anything...

 - any service I can do w/o removing the whole thing.  Given I'm just driving 5-40 miles at a time, can I get by?  

 

So far, the biggest repair has been rebuilding the fuel pump and flushing the cooling system (w/ evaporust repeatedly), torque ball maintenance would be a much bigger ball of wax!

[markewebb '39 Buick Team]

  This post explains how to get at the torque ball

 

[markewebb '39 Buick Team]

In reference to this: "Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/"  I relined 8 torque balls.  I bought the mold and instructions from the elderly gentleman that used to reline them for Bob's.  One went to a friend and Bob's bought the rest.

[C-Lamb]

On 12/7/2022 at 7:45 PM, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:

In reference to this: "Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/"  I relined 8 torque balls.  I bought the mold and instructions from the elderly gentleman that used to reline them for Bob's.  One went to a friend and Bob's bought the rest.

Thanks Mark, that was my understanding of the process.  That's a bunch of 80 year old fasteners to get apart and replace - I'm sure there will be some part of unobtainium mixed in there too.   And once I get that far, I should probably drop the transmission and clean it, check the clutch system out and replace the rear main seal... at which point I will have converted my running / driving vehicle to a kit, which I'm trying to avoid by tackling small projects. 

 

Since mine wasn't vibrating noticeably yet, is there anything I can do given condition of my boot to protect it, like packing with grease and patching with a piece of inner tube? No way to replace the boot w/out dropping the axle etc?   I'll contact Bob's and see what the have.  I think Steele Rubber had some too. 

[C-Lamb]

On 12/7/2022 at 7:45 PM, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:

In reference to this: "Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/"  I relined 8 torque balls.  I bought the mold and instructions from the elderly gentleman that used to reline them for Bob's.  One went to a friend and Bob's bought the rest.

Thanks Mark, that was my understanding of the process.  That's a bunch of 80 year old fasteners to get apart and replace - I'm sure there will be some part of unobtainium mixed in there too.   And once I get that far, I should probably drop the transmission and clean it, check the clutch system out and replace the rear main seal... at which point I will have converted my running / driving vehicle to a kit, which I'm trying to avoid by tackling small projects. 

 

Since mine wasn't vibrating noticeably yet, is there anything I can do given condition of my boot to protect it, like packing with grease and patching with a piece of inner tube? No way to replace the boot w/out dropping the axle etc?   I'll contact Bob's and see what the have.  I think Steele Rubber had some too. 

 

Looks like Bob's still has them $450 including $150 core charge. 

[C-Lamb]

On 2/5/2022 at 7:10 PM, C-Lamb said:

Still proceeding slowly cleaning and tweaking and figuring things out.  Have weak spark on cylinders 1&2 so will go ahead and change out my wires, points, and condenser since I have them. Will put in the new brake lines on as well soon.  Will also pull the valve cover shortly and check on valves and oiling. 

 

Good news is, starts easily and runs every time even in the cold.  I've gone to all incandescent bulbs in the back, none of the LEDs were as bright and several didn't fit in the (replacement) sockets (didn't even make consistent contact).

 

In the meantime, I went ahead and got a picture of the block number:  J3604223  and the body number:  3464  (Model 61, Trim #709, Paint #530). 

 

That block number seems to be in the right range, but there's no way that the first digit is a '6' or 'b'.   See the picture below.  Thanks for any input. 

By the way, when looking at this again, it's not a "J", it's a 'b' shaped 6, just like the other one.  The rust or something makes it look like a J, but when you look just slightly more closely, you can see the 'b' clearly.  Doh!  Doesn't match the number on the frame, but I don't know that it should?

[Bloo]

I don't think it should match. Good catch on the "b".

 

[EmTee]

I agree.  Here's what I see:

 

 

Edited December 9, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history)