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New 1963-1965 Addco Rear Sway Bar Option Now Available


Riviera63

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The first thing I want to say is that this new rear sway bar option would not have come about without the hard work of the Turbinator and Tom Telesco.

 

It all began with Turbinator and Tom attempting to install the 934 Addco version of the rear sway bar for our 1st generation cars. The complaint with this bar is that it mounted underneath the control arms and hung too low. They decided this was true and set about to change this for Turbinator's install. They heated and stretched the bar giving it a wider span. This enabled them to mount it on top of the control arm so that the sway bar is tucked up higher underneath the car. 

 

To make a long story short this prompted Tom to contact Addco to see why they had quit producing the design he had collaborated with them in the 70's to produce which mounted in exactly the same way. After much back and forth and hard work on Tom's part they agreed to begin producing this version again. I was fortunate to be the very first recipient of the reissued Tom Telesco designed rear sway bar. I am very excited about this and can't wait get it installed. 

 

This version is only available for purchase through Tom Telesco. Addco has made him the sole outlet. They have given the new sway bar the number 5141 and the hardware kit uses the same number as the old version of the bar but, appears to be labeled as a special heavyweight 934 version. Unfortunately, Addco did not update the installation directions and just included old directions. You will have to contact Tom for installation directions and purchase information.

 

I attached some pictures from Turbinator's install and the new bar. I cannot emphasize how much work Tom put into this. He did not have to do this. He already has this same rear sway bar on both of his cars which were installed decades ago. He did this for our benefit. Even if you do not purchase a sway bar give Tom a pat on the back as he once again has worked his tail off to get us something to help make our cars better. Thanks Tom!

 

Bill

 

 

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Rear Sway Bar 3.jpg

Rear Sway Bar 1.jpg

Rear Sway Bar 2.jpg

Rear Sway Bar Install Bob 2.jpg

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Your more than welcome Bill.

 

I worked on this bar in the late 60's early 70's with a man by the name of John Carlson at Addco.  Many years later he went off on his own to open up his own shop making sway bars.  Through the years he has helped me design front & rear bars for other cars that were NOT available through any other resources.  Unfortunately he has passed on.  

When I/we, Bob the Turbinator, went to install the bar he received, it was no where near the bar that was originally designed for my '64 Riv.  I went on to make the nec. mods to make it work which took about 1 1/2 days. This required precise measuring, heating & bending the sway bar many times to get it into the proper position for bolting in. Approx. 4 inches total. I again mounted it to install under the coil springs instead of on the bottom of the lower control arms or on the side of the control arms by the directions provided.  It would have hung UNDER the rear diff. & could get caught on something proud of the road.  I'm sure I don't have to tell you what the repercussions of that would be. In a slightly different car.  Mounting it to the side or the bottom of the control arm you're at the mercy of the strength of the stamped steel arms.  This causes undue flex in the sheet metal of the control arm. By mounting above the control arm under the spring it rests on a more stable area less prone to deflection which in turn helps to stiffen up the area even more because of the plate. You don't need to drill the control arm just a 1/2" hole in the plate as you will be using the bolt & plate that holds the spring in place  on the lower control arm.

I actually removed the bar from my Riv. & sent it to Addco so they could copy it exactly.  Nothing says quality/longevity has a bearing on this other than it's been on my Riv. for aprrox. 50 years through all kinds of driving, drag racing etc. Through all this time, other than removing it, have I EVER had to tighten bolts, fix a rattle or ANYTHING else.  There are NO parts to wear out like links & rubber bushings, etc.

The ONLY mod that needs to be  done is radius the lower shock bracket where it welds to the axle tube which will take about 20-30 minutes with a die grinder. It will ALSO raise the rear of the car by approx. 1/2".

This bar fits '63-'65 Rivs. & '61-'65 Full size cars.

The price for this bar is $232.73 plus shipping.  I will have it drop shipped so you won't have to pay twice for shipping. I will need a complete name, address & zip for drop shipping.

As an example Bill's bar cost $38.40 to drop ship. Now he lives diagonally as far as one could go from Florida.

 

Tom T.

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Interesting.  I have one of Tony Gentilcore's bars on back of my 63 along with a Jamco bar on the front per his suggestion.  

 

The difference is noticeable and the car definitely stays flatter in the corners.  Wondering how this one might compare. 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

Uh, what?

I always thought they were muffler clamps. The U shaped bolts with threads on the end 5/16” x 18. Then we made a stronger flat metal plate that connects the two ends of the U bolt. You needed more strength in the flat bar the regular flat bar that comes on a muffler clamp. We each had one muffler clamp, threaded them in between the coils and tightened the nuts evenly on each side of the clamp. Worked good, but I got tired of tightening the nuts.

Turbinator

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24 minutes ago, telriv said:

No problem Chip I know what I'm doin'  If you look closely you will see they are NOT just muffler clamps.

Apology for minimizing the tool used to compress the coil springs. Part of my attempt at humor when something takes extra effort. Just having fun. I meant no harm.

Turbinator

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2 hours ago, Zimm63 said:

Interesting.  I have one of Tony Gentilcore's bars on back of my 63 along with a Jamco bar on the front per his suggestion.  

 

The difference is noticeable and the car definitely stays flatter in the corners.  Wondering how this one might compare. 

 

 

Not sure Zimm as I have been in your zRiviera. I got what I wanted out of the work done on suspension. The Boulevard ride is abundantly clearly the same. The steering is better and the car now rides and feels like the front tires are on the highway. The car does not float nor does it feel like rack and pinion steering. 
Turbinator

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I feel that the bar I can supply is much easier to install with less drilling & cutting.  The ONLY hard part is the clamping of the springs to fit the plate under the coil springs.  AGAIN, no parts to wear out of or rub on anything.

Both bars supply the nec. affect & stability.

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59 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Does anyone offer a rear bar kit for the 2nd gen?

To the best of my knowledge, Addco is the only one that does. I have read that it sits too low and it needs to be flipped over during install to fit better and obtain more ground clearance. 

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Sorry Brad not at this time.  BUT, looking at the pics on the Addco site it darn well looks the same as the bar I designed back in the very early 70's.  I would guess instead of attaching it to the lower part of the control arm I would mount it on top.  I don't remember where the coil springs are attached on the '66-'70 Rivs. whether they are bolted to the lower control arm  or the diff.  IF attached at the diff. makes the job even easier as you have no coil spring to contend with.  I have never seen one installed so I can't say IF this would work or not.

The ONLY way to know is order one & try to install it.  As long as it doesn't get damaged in some way you can send it back.  Then the ONLY costs to you would be postage to & from.

SOMEONE has to start the process or else it will never get done or known IF it's even possible. SOMEONE HAS to be the genie pig on this who does have some mechanical experience.

 

Tom T.

 

 

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I have been wanting to and probably will after I get my Riv back together. Engine pulled out for pan gasket replacement after the engine builder didn't come thru for me and fix his error. It's taking me a lot longer to get to it than I anticipated. I always look at the holes in the lower rear control arms and wonder why the factory never utilized them on an E body for a sway bar option or even why the aftermarket hasn't tried anything. Never understood why the aftermarket still hasn't hopped on the gentlemen's hotrod (Riviera) bandwagon. Perhaps in the future.

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  • 2 years later...
On 3/27/2020 at 12:44 PM, telriv said:

Your more than welcome Bill.

 

I worked on this bar in the late 60's early 70's with a man by the name of John Carlson at Addco.  Many years later he went off on his own to open up his own shop making sway bars.  Through the years he has helped me design front & rear bars for other cars that were NOT available through any other resources.  Unfortunately he has passed on.  

When I/we, Bob the Turbinator, went to install the bar he received, it was no where near the bar that was originally designed for my '64 Riv.  I went on to make the nec. mods to make it work which took about 1 1/2 days. This required precise measuring, heating & bending the sway bar many times to get it into the proper position for bolting in. Approx. 4 inches total. I again mounted it to install under the coil springs instead of on the bottom of the lower control arms or on the side of the control arms by the directions provided.  It would have hung UNDER the rear diff. & could get caught on something proud of the road.  I'm sure I don't have to tell you what the repercussions of that would be. In a slightly different car.  Mounting it to the side or the bottom of the control arm you're at the mercy of the strength of the stamped steel arms.  This causes undue flex in the sheet metal of the control arm. By mounting above the control arm under the spring it rests on a more stable area less prone to deflection which in turn helps to stiffen up the area even more because of the plate. You don't need to drill the control arm just a 1/2" hole in the plate as you will be using the bolt & plate that holds the spring in place  on the lower control arm.

I actually removed the bar from my Riv. & sent it to Addco so they could copy it exactly.  Nothing says quality/longevity has a bearing on this other than it's been on my Riv. for aprrox. 50 years through all kinds of driving, drag racing etc. Through all this time, other than removing it, have I EVER had to tighten bolts, fix a rattle or ANYTHING else.  There are NO parts to wear out like links & rubber bushings, etc.

The ONLY mod that needs to be  done is radius the lower shock bracket where it welds to the axle tube which will take about 20-30 minutes with a die grinder. It will ALSO raise the rear of the car by approx. 1/2".

This bar fits '63-'65 Rivs. & '61-'65 Full size cars.

The price for this bar is $232.73 plus shipping.  I will have it drop shipped so you won't have to pay twice for shipping. I will need a complete name, address & zip for drop shipping.

As an example Bill's bar cost $38.40 to drop ship. Now he lives diagonally as far as one could go from Florida.

 

Tom T.

Hi Tom, How can I order this rear sway bar? Thanks 

 

Craig 

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This brings back memories!  When I lived in Jupiter, Florida, I went and visited Addco in Lake Park to pick up a pair of bars for my 1970 Dodge Charger.  It was fun pulling parts out of bins and boxes to get all the parts required.  Let's see, you need two of these, four of these, ..... :)

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4 hours ago, CMC Designs said:

Hi Tom, How can I order this rear sway bar? Thanks 

 

Craig 

Craig,

 

Message Tom directly from the forum. His call sign is telriv. I ordered mine from him. He designed it. He got Addco to produce it and got them to reissue his original design after they strayed. The added bonus is his customer service which is far superior to theirs. It may be a little bit more money but, it's worth it. If you don't believe me ask the Turbinator.

 

Bill

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Craig,

 

You can make contact through this site or give me a call: 203-324-6045. EST

Bar:  $275.00 plus shipping. 

Post an address & I'll get an estimate for shipping.

Once that's figured out I'll accept a personnel check, money order or bank/cashiers check.

 

Tom T.

 

 

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