Bill Bauder Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 I have a water jacket that is very pitted and is just starting to weep a tiny bit. I was wondering if copper plating it would save it from further corrosion.I thought of using some type of epoxy on the inside but I don't want to have it fail and plug up any part of the cooling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trini Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 What kind of water jacket.? What car and year ? A picture will help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trini Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Do not plate. Powder coat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 We repair and silver solder them all the time. We then put heavy copper on them, and we will then nickel or chrome them depending on application. It works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans1 Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 I am now in the process of replacing two water jackets on one engine. I have NOS covers and gaskets to replace them. However when removing covers from three other engines I found a clever repair. On one engine a previous repair was performed. A thin sheet of copper tinned on one side with mounting holes was placed next to the block, then the old gasket and the cover was bolted on. This allowed the old cover to be used, maintained water integrity. In my case will allow the use of the old covers with the patina on them. However the bolts will be new, but acid dipped to appear old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bauder Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 The water jacket cover is for a 1931 Hupmobile model L 8 cylinder.I will get a picture tomorrow.The idea of silver soldering sounds like a good possibility, if I can get it super clean. I am not sure if "Heavy Copper" is plating but if it is that was what I was hoping to do. The holes are mostly very fine and there are some places that have pretty deep pitting but they have not gone through yet. Thanks for the suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Yes, "heavy copper" is copper plating. The copper layer is built up by leaving it in plating tank longer. Many plating shops use it to fill in rust pits and surface imperfections. Then grind the copper and polish to get a smooth finish for nickel and chrome. Much like you would use skim-coat Bondo, spot putty, and primer/surfacer in paint work. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Ordinary plumber's soft solder should be strong enough and heat proof enough. The metal must be clean - clean - clean! Brushed with acid flux and tinned with solder. Then you can solder up holes and thin spots, solder on a patch of thin copper or tin if necessary. If you have not done this before you may need an old time radiator repair man or plumber to help. If you were doing a Pebble Beach restoration you might need to use silver solder so you can polish and plate it with copper, nickel or chrome and make it look like something from Tiffany's window. But for ordinary use, tinning the inside to rust proof it and painting the outside should be sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 If you put copper in there, near the cast iron block, you had better plan on keeping your anti-corrosion additives up to date in your coolant. Galvanic corrosion will ensue if you don't. Plating the copper will reduce the galvanic corrosion potential. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trini Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 My 28 DB had a similar problem . I took it to have it powder coated. The fellow sand blasted it. That showed up all the pits. I cleaned up the pits and used 50/50 plumbing solder on most of the deeper pits. Problem solved. Watch out for bolts that weeps and use a special washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 11 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: Ordinary plumber's soft solder should be strong enough and heat proof enough. The metal must be clean - clean - clean! Brushed with acid flux and tinned with solder. Then you can solder up holes and thin spots, solder on a patch of thin copper or tin if necessary. If you have not done this before you may need an old time radiator repair man or plumber to help. If you were doing a Pebble Beach restoration you might need to use silver solder so you can polish and plate it with copper, nickel or chrome and make it look like something from Tiffany's window. But for ordinary use, tinning the inside to rust proof it and painting the outside should be sufficient. Sidenote: Correct - Ordinary solder does not plate well - Silver Solder is best choice for items you want to plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bauder Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 Here are some pictures of the water jacket. Some of the pits are pretty deep. I think a repair is certainly possible but finding a new one would be excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trini Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 That looks pretty bad. Neither plating nor powder coating will help. Cindy Meyers has new reproduction made of stainless steel for around 300 dollars. By the time you fart around trying to repair that, it will probaly cost you nearly as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 If you can buy one for 300 bucks.....jump fast. The copper and silver solder will run twice that. When we repair them, they are on cars where you would pay in excess of 1500 to 2000 for the covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trini Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 If you know how to do body work with solder or have the level of skill, you may be able to repair it. It be inside where no body will see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 That doesn't look too hard to replicate yourself. Get an oversized sheet of 16- or even 14-gauge stainless, make a crude die set for your press to make the channel, cut to size once it's pressed into shape, and drill the mounting holes. No complicated or expensive equipment needed, a weekend of work at most. I've made similar parts with a hammer and dolly, although stainless can be a little tougher to form so your die may take a few tries to get it to stamp into the right shape. Probably faster and easier than trying to solder every single one of those pits and hope it doesn't leak once you're all done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Mat is correct.....you would be surprised with that you can do with a one time fiberglass die and a 20 ton press. Also, water jetting a new cover would also be a good idea, and you and weld and make the jacket look correct that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry with a Packard Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 Well, this is the condition of my water jacket. 1927 Packard 6. Seems to me I can make it work. Am I deluded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stvaughn Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 On my 32 REO the covers were in pretty good condition so I used 0.050 stainless steel as a liner. On m 33 they were useless so I had a local machinest/car guy fab me up a pair from 3/8” stainless steel. They are a little heavy but they’ll last long after I’m gone. I still have to clean up the engine and polish them and even thought about possibly engraving the REO logo on them since this is going to be a driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry with a Packard Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 How does one get the stainless to bend into the shape, in the case of the liner solution? For your '33, the finished piece is machined ("carved") from a block of stainless? What did your cylinders look like? Mine, before hand scraping, are attached: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete O Posted December 13, 2019 Share Posted December 13, 2019 I recall seeing a thread about a Ruxton where if my memory isn't failing me, they lined the water jacket with cement! I'll search for it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete O Posted December 13, 2019 Share Posted December 13, 2019 2 minutes ago, Pete O said: I recall seeing a thread about a Ruxton where if my memory isn't failing me, they lined the water jacket with cement! I'll search for it.... yup, here's the thread from 6 years ago: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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