Bill Bauder

Thanks very much for the help to identify the parts. Now maybe I can advertise them and find them a new home.

I wish I could be of help . I still am not sure what Studebaker model or year the parts are from. I will be sure you get the pictures and maybe you can identify the parts. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Bill

This is a very well built auto. I have owned two of them on the past 60 years. Hupps don't seem to command high prices but at $15, 000. it is probably a fair price depending on the actual condition. Chrome and mechanical issues can be costly at today's labor rates. There are a fair number of these cars still around and parts are available as many motor and mechanical parts were not changed over many years due to the Depression. If you are not interested in the car just list it in our parts locator. The reason I say list it in the locator is that most Hupp guys really don't want these cars to end up Hot Rods. Good Luck

I had purchased a bunch of Hupmobile parts as part of a final sale on a Hupmobile. Along with those parts were many Studebaker parts from what I believe is a 30' s Studebaker. If someone has knowledge and interest please contact me and possibly we can can get these parts a new home. I have an excellent radiator and lamp parts and other misc parts. Bill 609 865-0638

Here are some pictures of the water jacket. Some of the pits are pretty deep. I think a repair is certainly possible but finding a new one would be excellent.

The water jacket cover is for a 1931 Hupmobile model L 8 cylinder.I will get a picture tomorrow.The idea of silver soldering sounds like a good possibility, if I can get it super clean. I am not sure if "Heavy Copper" is plating but if it is that was what I was hoping to do. The holes are mostly very fine and there are some places that have pretty deep pitting but they have not gone through yet. Thanks for the suggestions.

I have a water jacket that is very pitted and is just starting to weep a tiny bit. I was wondering if copper plating it would save it from further corrosion.I thought of using some type of epoxy on the inside but I don't want to have it fail and plug up any part of the cooling system.

Here is my 1929 Model M Cabriolet. It is an 8 Cylinder and just a very nice car that is always enjoyed by CCCA members who ask Who made it?

I have the correct rotor for your car Just email me and I will mail you the correct rotor for $10.plus postage. Bill Fiddleheadfarms@comcast.net

I am looking to replace the 650-19 tires on my 31 Hupmobile. I am looking for someone to mount and balance the tires who will not damage the painted wire wheels and the chrome lock rings. I would like to find someone in the N. J. area. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Did anyone know if the Red 32 Hupp sold and if it did how much? -Thank You

I have been working on a 1931 Hupmobile model L roadster for a number of years now and still need some parts. I particularly need an intake and exhaust manifold. I will need any valves [NOS] . I need the bumperetts and the front pan below the radiator. I also need a crank hole cover and interior door handle escutcheon. Also a pair of tire mount brackets for fender mounted spares.Also a Raulang body emblem. I also need seat sping assemblies and engine side dust pans. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You,Bill

The original carb is gone. I do have a picture of it though. I have a replacement UU2 but the pot metal has been expoxied and really is only a spare parts carb. I fitted the manifolds today and there is no way the intake can be flipped over due to bolt hole configuration. Now I'm back to sticking with the original manifold set up.

Thank you both studeboy and carbking. At this point the turning over the manifold seems like a pretty good idea from the standpoint of the diameters/volume of fuel mix and air flow being the same as designed.I was thinking of having a new manifold made but was concerned as to the importance of design and sizing. As for "period correctness" I am willing to sacrifice that for a trouble free non malfunctioning carb of more modern heritage. Jon are you suggesting that the cu. inches of the donor engine should be plus or minus 3% of the Hupp engine in order to function properly? This 31 Hupp eight was rated at 90 horsepower @ 3200 rpm with 240.2 cu. in displacement compression ratio 5.2 to 1 . I sure would love to avoid buying the wrong carb if at all possible. One other concern is trying in some way to duplicate the fuel air mix as per the original design of each barrel feeds 4 cylinders.

Yes Hupp built later 8 cylinder models with downdraft carbs and possibly by checking the gasket configurations I might be able to find a match. Even if I did find a match those engines and parts are very scarce as well. I have had a Carter BB-1 carb on my 29 Hupp 6 cylinder as a replacement and that is an excellent carb. My concern is that the Hupp 8 manifold was specifically designed to feed four cylinders from each of the two barrels of the carb as in the Stromberg UU2. Not being a carb guy and not knowing what complications might arise is my main concern so as to not over or under fuel the motor and possibly do damage of some sort.

I have one of those cars that used the Stromberg UU2 carb that seems to be very scarce. Not only are they scarce but any I have found are badly cracked and not good cores. I was wondering if anyone has experimented with changing the intake manifold to a downdraft by manufacturing a replacement manifold? I also have a manifold that has cracked in numerous places so it would be no great loss to improve the manifold if possible. The car is an eight cylinder 31 Hupp model L and I haven't been able to find good manifolds either intake nor exhaust.

Does anyone have a replacement /interchange for a 1929 Hupp front wheel seal? I just went to grease the front wheel bearings and found that both seals were different and incorrect. I have given the hub and spindle dimensions to the parts house but they can't seem to match up any seals?

That car is a model L. For some reason it has been sold about three times in the past couple years. It was previously owned by a fellow who owned a Cadillac dealer in N. J. .

Wanted to buy 1928-1929 Hupmobile 8 cylinder:) roadster will consider others to 1934.

I'm working on a 31 and am interested in the parts to help with a car that is missing many pieces. Please send pictures if possible , Thanks, Bill

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JFranklin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you find your problem? I answered your P.M. to me but didn't hear back so I assumed you got things squared away.</div></div> I wish I could say its fixed. I put the new cutout on and for some reason after a fifteen minute run and then a stop the car battery was dead[amp meter showed 12 amps while on this run]. I jumped it with another 6volt battery and it started. I checked the 3 month old Optima battery and it only had 4 volts. After an overnight charge it still only had 5.8 volts and read weak on my Milton load tester. I took the battery to Auto Zone and they verified it was defective and I'm still waiting fo the ordered replacement that was to be here by sat.. When I get the new battery I'll start the testing again. Thanks, Bill

My 29 Hupp model M 8cyl has burned up the cutout and I want to trouble shoot the charging system before installing the new cutout. I was told there is a difference between testing the generator output "cold" vs "hot"? This is a three brush single wire Autolite generator #gag4106 and cutout #cb4012.What should I do to insure proper charging and proper output and cutout operation?

I was wondering what recommendations anyone may have regarding seat belts, extra tail/brake lamps and any safety related options that you may have added to your 20's/early 30's autos.Any sources for these type items would also be helpful. Bill Bauder