Jerry with a Packard

How do we connect? BTW, my car is a six cylinder. I am at 805-448-4404

The manual does say the condenser is mounted on the outside of the distributor cup. Looking at the illustrations, it would be on the back of the distributor, closest to the firewall. There is a wire from the coil that should attach to it, but I don't recall it being there. Still don't know what it should look like.

OK. I had some professional help. He knew how hard to hit it with a hammer and off it came. Nicely done. The rotor is broken, contacts and points are pretty worn and a thin piece of metal around the interior circumference looks like it needs some help. A local shop says he can tune it up. I have a feeling this is going to be pricey. (Hourly rate is $195.00) He asked about the condenser. Were would that be? The coil is under the dash on the passenger side of the firewall. I don't see a condenser there, but I don't really know what it should look like. I don't see it mentioned in the 1928 Packard Service Manual. I want to remove the distributor cap. The wire to the coil goes through the firewall. It looks like I have to cut it to get both the coil and the distributor out of the car. Does what I say make sense?

Quonset

This was my car in the late 60s. The wheels came with the car when purchased new. The photo is a photo of a photo, hence there is a curve in the image. I'm behind the Buick washing the Charger.

In 1965 my dad ordered a '65 corvette with gold line tires. From Jack Wall Chevy in Pasadena. If you are interested: 365 HP, Glen Green, off road exhaust, large gas tank, tan leather interior, teak steering wheel. Sigh.... Mom divorced him not long after.

Thanks guys. I'll report later.

I have a 1927 6 and I want to remove the head. So I need to remove the distributor. I've removed the 4 slot head machine screws holding it to the head. Doesn't budge. I don't want to force things. I've never done this before. Suggestions? Warnings? Thanks, Jerry

Here I am two years later. Embarrassing. Anyway, I damaged a threaded hole in the cylinder head. I rethreaded it, but it is crooked. It holds what I call a thermostat housing to the head, though there is no thermostat. So, I plan to remove the head and take it to a machine shop. How do I find top dead center? I need to remove the distributor also. Any concerns/comments on that? BTW, I tried the PAC forum and didn't get a response. I will try again. I've put the pan back on and filled it with oil. I cleaned out the rusted area around the cylinders and put the water jacket back on. Ran some Evaporust through the block and flushed it out as best as I could, until it ran clear. Put in antifreeze. Then I got curious and did the above damage. Amazing how easy it was to shear those bolts rusted into the head. Thanks, Jerry

I was able to remove the second easy out. I tapped the hole. Bolt goes in, but it is crooked. Can't get the thermostat housing reattached. Solution seems to be removing the head and having a machine shop re-drill the hole. What am I getting myself into? Heads can be difficult to remove once all the nuts are removed? The shaft from the distributor must be kept un-rotated? Something else to be aware of? The manual I have says that I need to remove the "Delco head" before the cylinder head. What is that?

Hi Bob, Thanks for the response which I read after I made things worse. I used easy outs twice. I snapped both of those. Having trouble with the second one. A drill so far doesn't bite into the easy out. The local specialty shop suggested a diamond drill, which I think will just burn up. But I will give it a try. Will let you know the outcome. I will try to irrigate as I do the drilling. Maybe I can get to it Tuesday. Jerry

I am tending to my project at a glacial pace. I recently sheared two of the four bolt heads that hold the doohicky by which the radiator hose attaches to the top of the block. I was able to loosen the shaft of one of the bolts as it gripped the doohicky, but the other wouldn't budge. Afraid to crack the doohicky, I fiddled with it for days (weeks?) until the remaining bolt severed where it entered the block and was able to detach the doohicky. It was rust that prevented the removal of the bolts. They were as if welded. Now I'll clean things up and remove the broken parts of the bolts in the block. Then I'll have to use thread inserts and reattach the doohicky. My question is what dangers should I know about when drilling out the old bolts? I'll have to do it with a hand held drill and hope I will not make a crooked hole. Warnings please. Thanks, Jerry PS It is a '27 Packard

I hope this is not off topic too far. My car from high school and college. 65 Skylark Gran Sport. Sister in foreground and I am washing the 68 Charger R/T in the background.

Yes to Pete and LaSalle. My first, immediate observation was that the new logo was less masculine. I may get in trouble here, but it is less bold and can I say "limp".

I have sealed up my garage the same way. It works. Don't let the vehicle sit outside and then drive in with a stowaway or two. BTW, if you use a sticky trap and find a innocent victim entraped, mineral oil will dissolve the adhesive very quickly and without trauma. Save the lizards! (I'd use a modified version of a phrase heard on the news these days, ad nauseam, but that wouldn't be politically correct.)

Dan Blocker lived on Halstead Street, Northridge in the San Fernando Valley in the mid 60's. I remember he had a '67 Camaro in the driveway. Chrome decoration mimicking thru the hood carburetors. Don't recall the engine, though it would have been large. Yes, he was a nice guy. There is the Dan Blocker beach along Pacific Coast Highway not far south of Zuma Beach, Malibu area. I always thought it odd that he had a beach named after him.

Matt, I have set up a system similar to yours and was about to put it together. Yours looks more thoughtful. I was going to just use enough to fill up the block and then recirculate that amount. You are using a bucket to allow more Evaporust, yes? Do you not change the fluid for days? Is it recirculating constantly? Thanks, Jerry Don't know how to reply to a specific post.

How does one get the stainless to bend into the shape, in the case of the liner solution? For your '33, the finished piece is machined ("carved") from a block of stainless? What did your cylinders look like? Mine, before hand scraping, are attached:

Well, this is the condition of my water jacket. 1927 Packard 6. Seems to me I can make it work. Am I deluded?

I removed the cover over the pushrods. As the engine is cranked, they all move. Looking through the spark plug holes, all valves move. It is awkward to look in those holes. I would say there is not excess carbon, though my judgement lacks experience. Cranking is smooth; no roughness.

901 Thanks. I thought I replied Sunday, but I must not have hit the reply button. My car is a 426., a six. PAC is the Packard Club.org? This forum seems much more active. I'll await more guidance before I remove the rocker cover.

Well. I am fishing for guidance. My local guy said to not coat it, but the discussion here points to having the inside sealed. Also, the tank's interior is not perfectly clean, but the surface looks stable and firm. So, maybe for the first few miles, I can just deal with it as it is and use a filter. I have much to do first. Cleaning the engine and getting it running are my immediate goals. Putting gas into the vacuum tank by hand will probably work for the initial start and first few miles. Then I will deal with the tank. Jerry

I recently had my original, funky tank ('27 Packard) cleaned by a guy who rotated it for days with sand inside. Looks good as far as I can see. Not all shiny, but with some slight rusty-ness. Like the freckles of an Irish lass. The guy said he would not coat the interior, as "they always fail and that is more of a problem". He said I should just put oil in the gas. This discussion suggests that is a road I do not want to go down. I just looked at it again. More than "slight", but it might be OK with an inline filter???? Jerry

Yes on running it in the garage first, then driveway. Baby steps. Especially since I live up a steep dirt road. Brakes work? Marvel Mystery Oil should be an additive or used straight?? Visible water passageways are cleaning up better than I thought. Still, more to do. Plan on checking out radiator. Engine moves very smoothly. Keeping an open mind. The manual I have is for a year after mine. It shows an oil filter. Don't plan on using electric fuel pump. I may try to fill up vacuum tank manually first. Yes as to changing oil after an hour (in which case I may not be too worried about oil quality). Probably same for coolant. Thank you JM.

Of course, I will look as to why there is no filter. I'll need to find where the supply tube comes from or would have come from. I think the bracket on the oil filler throat is to hold one end of the oil filter. There are no marks indicating there ever was a filter. BTW, I can see the valves thru the spark plug hole, if I contort myself just right. Thanks Rusty, Jerry